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pre61-list Digest Mon, 16 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 201

In This Issue:
Bed side extensions
Re: steering
Re: 48-50 F-2
Bed supports for my 57
Re: 48-50 F-2
Re: King Pins Problem
Re: 49 F2 Fenders
Re: 49 F2 Fenders
Re: Kingpin problem
Re: Bed Side Extensions
Re: Bed Side Extensions
49 F-2 fenders
ADMIN: Pictorial additions
vin decode

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mike Bishop" <av8ford volcano.net>
Subject: Bed side extensions
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 15:23:07 -0700

If your originals aren't too badly rotted or damaged, use them to make
patterns and have new ones bent by a sheet-metal shop in either 16-ga or
18-ga. I believe they are flat with a simple 90-degree break at top and
bottom plus another at the front (or rear).

Mike Bishop
Hemified '53 F-100


------------------------------

From: JRFiero aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:10:24 EDT
Subject: Re: steering

In a message dated 10/10/2000 8:26:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cjmc usit.net
writes:

> Is there an adjustment that can tighten
>  up the steering a little until I get the box worked on?

The procedure in the 49-52 manual  is to:
1.  disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm.
2.  Loosen the steering column tube to instrument panel bracket.
3.  Back the side (sector) adjustment out (counterclockwise) to remove any
load. (That's "the bolt on the side of the gear box" you mentioned.)
4.  Measure the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center of it's
rotation.
This is kinda the hard part.  Ford must have had a spring scale, like a fish
scale, which read in ounces.  'The force needed to rotate the wheel at the
center of it's rotation' should be 1/4 to 3/4 pound on F1, F2, and F3, 1/2 to
1 lb on all others.  I used a postal scale to measure the weight of some
sockets, then put them in a mesh bag my wife (used to) use for washing
'delicates,' then ran it's tie sting from the top of the steering wheel off
to the side, then over a socket extension straight down.  I think this
translates into the force needed to turn the wheel.  I also measured quarters
($0.25 pieces) to see what they weighed, if you don't have a scale.  1/4
pound (4 ounces) is ~16 quarters, 3/4 pound (12 ounces) is therefore  ~48
quarters.  You take it from there.  If this measurement isn't right, you need
to change the stack of shims under the steering shaftat the bottom of the
gearbox.  The shims are actually gaskets of varying thicknesses, and a
selection is available from most of our common suppliers.  However, to
tighten the existing preload, you'll just be removing shims, so if you remove
the bottom plate carefully, you can reuse the ones you have. This is a messy
and iterative process.  You need to have some gear lube in the box to
accurately measure the turning force, then you need to remove the bottom
plate to change shims, which dribbles gear lube all over.
  Once this is in spec, center the wheel.  Then, turn the 'sector shaft
thrust adjusting screw' (side adjuster) until 'all end play is removed  from
the sector shaft.'  Then the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center
of it's rotation should measure between 1 and 2 pounds on the F1, F2, and F3,
and 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 pounds on other models.
  I have found that when the gears are too worn, tightening the sector shaft
adjusting screw too much jams the sector against the housing, which of course
makes the wheel harder to turn, but doesn't reduce the free play or have the
intended affect on steering accuracy.  Then there's nothing left to do but
replace the steering shaft (worm) and sector, or the whole box.  Other things
that wear out are the roller bearings on top and below the worm on the
steering shaft, the bushings on the outside of the sector, and the seal
on the outside of the sector.  If you're going to the expense (considerable)
of
replacing the worm and sector, its probably worth replacing at least the
bearings and the seal.  The bushings must require reaming to size, but I've
never messed with those, so can't give practical advice.
   There you have it, almost straight from Ol' Henry.  Simple, huh?
=

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:20:22 -0400
From: Edward Sedgwick <esedgwick snet.net>
Subject: Re: 48-50 F-2

Grills are the same F-1 to F-6
Fenders are the same, F-1 only, F-2 thru F-6 (larger wheel openings)
F-7 and F-8 nose assemblies are different for the wider engine.

Ed Sedgwick



------------------------------

From: Fifty7F100 cs.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 20:23:37 EDT
Subject: Bed supports for my 57

FTEers (especially the 57 - 60 guys),

In trying to get my bed ready for remounting, I came across a problem with
the wood mounting blocks under the middle 4 bolts. I was sure a treated 2X4
would work just right. Unfortunately, (as always!) it is not quite tall
enough along the 2X side to get the thickest dimension. Is there a company
out there makes and/or sells these to the correct sizes. Mine is a styleside,
but I'm sure the stepsides still have this feature. I have 2 that made it
through the frame-off, but the 2 others were splinters. I think I remember
the 4 outside bolts had rubber pads. I might want to change them too as the
old ones, if they can be found (you really shouldn't take 3 years to do
this!), are quite dry and hard.

TIA for any help.

Glenn in TN
57 F100 -- in process
Another 57 (maybe Custom Cab) found in the woods. Film at 11.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 20:32:39 -0400
From: WIlliam Hendrickson <billjhs bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: 48-50 F-2

Hello,
Thanks
to all for answering my question on the fenders and stuff. Much
appreciated
Bill

Edward Sedgwick wrote:

> Grills are the same F-1 to F-6
> Fenders are the same, F-1 only, F-2 thru F-6 (larger wheel openings)
> F-7 and F-8 nose assemblies are different for the wider engine.
>
> Ed Sedgwick
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: Re: King Pins Problem
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 20:46:59 -0400

Most of time I remove the zerks and take an awl and poke around in holes to
loosen up the dirt and dried grease, install new zerks and pump in new
grease. I t sometimes pumps hard, and doesn't always go in, most of the time
it will. After driving some, pump in more grease as little bit works it's
way around and opens or disolves the old dried grease. You may find the
drag-link is also a big sticking problem. Replace or rebuild that link. I
believe there is a groove going around bushing to a hole somewhere that
allows grease in. Some trucks have floating bushings and have this set-up,
not sure what early Fords have, later ones float, AND are even Plastic,
Junk! Have heard of heating pins with torch to melt old grease too, not sure
I like that Idea, tho have done on small parts off a truck.
                     "G"
-----Original Message-----
From: The Toops <toop fnord.nwinfo.net>
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com <pre61-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, October 12, 2000 7:46 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] King Pins Problem


>Last summer the steering on my '57 F-100 started getting really sticky,
>so I decided to do a thorough lube job on it.  I couldn't get any lube
>to move through the zerks onto the king pins so I pulled the zerks off
>to see what was up.  Lo and behold there was no hole for the lube to
>pass through!  I thought that the bushings maybe had been installed
>incorrectly, or that the bushings had turned, until I ran into another
>fellow with a '59 F-100 who had the same problem.  He said he actually
>pulled the king pins and bushings from both sides only to discover that
>there was no hole in either one.  His solution was to drill lube holes
>through both bushings after reinstalling them. Now, I thought that the
>bushings came with a hole that had to be lined up with the zerks during
>installation.  Does anyone know what's going on here?
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: Re: 49 F2 Fenders
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 20:49:28 -0400

Yes wheel openings on bigger trucks are bigger for larger wheel and tire
sizes. C***y's have wider grills on big trucks and fenders are longer and
hood too. Not sure on all Ford's. Cabs are all the same except maybe floor
pan by trans.
                                "G"
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman uswest.net>
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com <pre61-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 12:54 AM
Subject: [pre61-list] Re: 49 F2 Fenders


>While the fenders are the same exterior size on all models, isn't the
>wheel opening smaller on the F1 to F3 series than on the larger F
>series?
>
>--
>Tim Bowman
>Burien, WA
>tkbowman uswest.net
>Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
>   (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)
>
>fordf3 aol.com wrote:
>
>I believe F-2 Thru F-6 front fenders are the same,And 48 to 50
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 21:14:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott <wm_69 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 49 F2 Fenders

I have a 49 one ton and a 1/2 ton and the only diff is the fender
openings.  Grills are the exact same, hoods are also the same.  The
tranny cover is also the same.  The frame is different because of the
weight rating.
Scott

--- Gary Perry <glperry fwi.com> wrote:
> Yes wheel openings on bigger trucks are bigger for larger wheel and
> tire
> sizes. C***y's have wider grills on big trucks and fenders are longer
> and
> hood too. Not sure on all Ford's. Cabs are all the same except maybe
> floor
> pan by trans.
>                                  "G"


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 17:55:20 +1300
From: brian falkner <falken ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Kingpin problem

you wrote
<<<   From: The Toops <toop fnord.nwinfo.net>
Subject: King Pins Problem

Last summer the steering on my '57 F-100 started getting really sticky,
so I decided to do a thorough lube job on it.  I couldn't get any lube
to move through the zerks onto the king pins so I pulled the zerks off
to see what was up.  Lo and behold there was no hole for the lube to
pass through!  I thought that the bushings maybe had been installed
incorrectly, or that the bushings had turned, until I ran into another
fellow with a '59 F-100 who had the same problem.  He said he actually
pulled the king pins and bushings from both sides only to discover that
there was no hole in either one.  His solution was to drill lube holes
through both bushings after reinstalling them. Now, I thought that the
bushings came with a hole that had to be lined up with the zerks during
installation.  Does anyone know what's going on here?>>>>
88888888888888888888888

I would say some jerkhole forgot the zerkholes mate!.

More than likely some supplier got some smoothbore bushes to make up a few
kits. Smoothbore bushes should also have radial eccentric grease grooves
linked to the zerk hole to distribute lube around the pin, otherwise lube
will bypass a significant portion of the pin, take the least line of
resistance & cause premature kingpin failure.
Brian


------------------------------

From: "Mark Lentz" <scout visuallink.com>
Subject: Re: Bed Side Extensions
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:05:52 -0400

I have a fifty-seven Styleside shortbed and have the same problem with the
need of a bed pand and a front panel.  Again, if anyone runs across a
supplier or individual that can help, please pass it on.
Thanks
Mark Lentz
Winchester, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: <pschumacher mindspring.com>
To: <pre61-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 7:03 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] Bed Side Extensions


> I have a 1956 Longbox. I'm in dire need of bed side extensions both front
> (2) and rear (2). Sac Ford and Carpenter don't carry. Any help would be
> much apprciated.
>
> Peter
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:43:48 -0400
From: 47Fred <zelda_1 Prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Bed Side Extensions

wrote:
>
> I have a 1956 Longbox. I'm in dire need of bed side extensions both front
> (2) and rear (2).

 Try here, LMC Truck I don't have my catalog, so I'm not sure they have
those parts, but they seemed to have pretty much everything, bedwise.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.longmotor.com/fordcats.html
47 Fred

------------------------------

From: "Bob Jones" <bobj pmihwy.com>
Subject: 49 F-2 fenders
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:21:54 -0500

The grills for the 1948 through 1950 F-1 through F6 are the same.  The F-7
and F-8 have the wide grill.  I know this for a fact because I have a
'48 F-4 grill on my '49 F-2 and the cab from a '50 F-7  fire truck I bought.
The F-7 and F-8 have wider fenders than the smaller ones.  The F-1 fenders
do have smaller openings than the F-2 through F-6, I know this because on
the first restoration of my F-2  I had F-1 fenders on it until I was told
they were wrong and I replaced them with the correct size.  I also recently
got a F-1 panel truck and can see the difference between the two sizes when
I park them next to each other.  I have had almost every size truck in the
last fifteen years either for drivers or parts truck and have been able to
see the differences.

Bob Jones
'49 F-2
'48 F-1 panel
'49 8N


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:23:35 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Pictorial additions

The following pictures have been added to the web site
Picture Gallery since the 12th of October:

2001 F-150 Supercrew
1999 Explorer Sport
1994 F-150 4x4
1992 F-250
1982 F-150
1952 F-1
1928 Ford pickup

Each picture is linked off the main page of the web
site.

<a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com">www.ford-trucks.com</a>

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 12:15:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott <wm_69 yahoo.com>
Subject: vin decode

Can anyone decode this for me? SP14F4229711  It's off a 48-50 Truck.
Scott

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------------------------------

End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #201
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