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pre61-list Digest Wed, 11 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 196

In This Issue:
Wipers (AGAIN)
Engine start up
Remove Spindle Arm Ball/Stud?
Re: Remove Spindle Arm Ball/Stud?
Spar Varnish on truck beds
ADMIN: Tech Article added to web site
Re: Spar Varnish on truck beds

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: selbyrk mail.npoint.net
Subject: Wipers (AGAIN)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 13:24:33 GMT

Sorry to rehash this subject, but I have been away from my truck for harvest
season and have lost everything that I received before. Aren't computers
wonderful? My '50 F-1 has a vacuum wiper motor that does not work. Took it
apart and cleaned it up, found no obvious faults, but still does not work. When
the switch(valve) is turned on, the engine idle picks up and I can feel vacuum
at the opposite port of the wiper motor.

1) Is it worth trying to repair/replace the vacuum system?

2) Will an electric system from another year bolt up to my truck?

3) Are there any systems from other vehicles that can be easily adapted to my
truck?

4) Do any venders offer a replacement electric motor that will bolt up to my
existing brackets for a reasonable price?

My truck is nearly complete. The front fenders and hood come home from the
paint booth this week. Hope to get to drive it a couple of times before the
snow gets too deep.

Thanks for everybody's input. You've been a lot of help.

Randy Selby
Hope to start on son's '50 F-1 street rod this winter!


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------------------------------

From: BOBWOOD536 aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 16:19:47 EDT
Subject: Engine start up

Mike,
The main thing for start up of engine's that have set for a while is to
change all the fluids. New anti-freeze, oil, gas and such. If the gas was
left in the carb it will have most likely turned to shellac which will have
to be cleaned off before it will work good, you should be able to start the
engine with it on the carb but you will want to clean it before you drive it
alot.
As for the oil you will want to precharge the system some how so the
bearings aren't dry. One way is to pull the distributor and use a shaft that
fits on the oil pump and a drill. Another way which was listed in a buddy of
mines old auto class book is to make a charger out of pipe. You use a piece
of pipe about 4" around and a couple of feet long and cap both ends, one end
you hook the oil pressure port on the block with a small tube then put oil in
the pipe and cap the top with a fitting that will accept a air hose fitting,
then turn the regulator on your air compressor down to 40psi and hook a hose
to the charger the air pressure forces the oil out into the block and charges
the oil system. This can also be used to check your bearings on the lower
end, you pull the oil pan hook up the charger and watch the oil come out of
the bearing caps. A solid stream means bad bearings, and a slow steady drip
means good bearings, and no drips and very few at a time menans bearings to
tight, the book had pictures which made it easier to understand.
One last thing on the startup, pull all the plugs and give each cylinder a
squirt of oil, then with the plugs still out, turn the engine over by hand.
This will ensure that any stuck rings will come unstuck.
Good Luck,
Bob Wood
60 F100
302/C6

------------------------------

From: "B Hale" <wlhale csrlink.net>
Subject: Remove Spindle Arm Ball/Stud?
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 17:37:20 -0400


Ok, I'm rebuilding the front end of my stock 50 F-1 and need some help with the spindle arm(left u-shaped arm), particularly the Ball/stud. The ball is now more like and egg and needs replaced/repaired, the problem is that the ball stud looks like it is crimped onto the arm. Has anyone tackled this? If so, could I get some pointers before I ruin another assembly? Looks like the catalogs sell these ball&stud assemblies now with threaded studs and lockpin nuts. Any help with this process would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
Bill


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 17:49:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dennis Moody <zeener96 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Remove Spindle Arm Ball/Stud?


--- B Hale <wlhale csrlink.net> wrote:
>
> Ok, I'm rebuilding the front end of my stock 50 F-1 and need some

Just finished mine. Take a grinder and ever so slightly gind off the
bottom of the plug.  Just barely grind enough off to clean up the
peened over edge.

Then you can drive the plug out.  The best way is to grind a real
good flat spot on your old stud and then clamp it in a vise, or with
vise grips.  With the stud secured you can use the leverage of the
arm to twist the stud out.

If it is stubborn you cna use a torch, to heat it a little,then put
it back into the vise.


There are two types of replacement studs available.  One is knurled
and is pressed in and then welded.  The other screws in.

Many catalogs show a stud that goes through the hole with a bolt on
the end, but that unit doesn't actaully exist.

Get the threaded unit, SVF has the best price.

You will have to take the arm to a machine shop and have it tapped,
which is an extra expense.  However, it is a better repair than
welding.


Screw it in with some red locktight and it will never come loose
unless you want it to.


Dennis


=====
Zeener96 yahoo.com

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------------------------------

From: MiRaWo aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 22:49:35 EDT
Subject: Spar Varnish on truck beds

In a message dated 10/10/2000 10:30:51 PM Mountain Daylight Time, Stephen
Hansen wrote:

"I sprayed the last coat of Spar varnish on the bed wood tonight; it looks
sweet! Tomorrow is the last day in the near future that we will have good
weather, so I'm torn between putting the finish work on the rusty panel I
replaced on my '92, or assembling the bed... Guess what I'll choose.. "


Boy if that doesn't bring back memories. I moved out of the house when I was
still in high school and my Uncle took me in, but not without cost. He had
put new hardwood slats on his '68 ford flat bed and he made me put the spar
varnish on it. Not just once, but he made me put 45 coats of spar varnish on
that truck bed. Each coat by hand; each coat had to be hand rubbed with
croccus (spelling?) cloth and lemon oil. After I rubbed out each coat he
would bring out a nylon stocking and drag it over the bed, if it snagged, I
had to rub it out more. It must have taken four months. I can't smell lemon
oil now without seeing that red flatbed truck and feeling my arms hurt. That
is a good example of restoration by slavery. So what am I doing now?
restoring a Ford flat bed truck! It must be in the blood.

Mike Woelke
'48 F-4, Dump

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 23:47:18 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Tech Article added to web site

Tech Article Added to the web site:

- Installing a Mid-60's Mustang Tank In A 1953 F-100
 By John Niolon

Its a very good article with photos.  John did a great
job.  Check it out:

<a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/index.html>www.ford-trucks.com/articles/index.html</a>

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: "Tim Mortimore" <tcm evergo.net>
Subject: Re: Spar Varnish on truck beds
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 21:53:02 -0700

sounds like you've got an uncle who gives a sh--.  count your blessings.

really, you are lucky.

Tim Mortimore

FORTY FIVE COATS!!!

wow.

----- Original Message -----
From: <MiRaWo aol.com>
To: <pre61-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] Spar Varnish on truck beds


> In a message dated 10/10/2000 10:30:51 PM Mountain Daylight Time, Stephen
> Hansen wrote:
>
> "I sprayed the last coat of Spar varnish on the bed wood tonight; it looks
> sweet! Tomorrow is the last day in the near future that we will have good
> weather, so I'm torn between putting the finish work on the rusty panel I
> replaced on my '92, or assembling the bed... Guess what I'll choose.. "
>
>
> Boy if that doesn't bring back memories. I moved out of the house when I
was
> still in high school and my Uncle took me in, but not without cost. He had
> put new hardwood slats on his '68 ford flat bed and he made me put the
spar
> varnish on it. Not just once, but he made me put 45 coats of spar varnish
on
> that truck bed. Each coat by hand; each coat had to be hand rubbed with
> croccus (spelling?) cloth and lemon oil. After I rubbed out each coat he
> would bring out a nylon stocking and drag it over the bed, if it snagged,
I
> had to rub it out more. It must have taken four months. I can't smell
lemon
> oil now without seeing that red flatbed truck and feeling my arms hurt.
That
> is a good example of restoration by slavery. So what am I doing now?
> restoring a Ford flat bed truck! It must be in the blood.
>
> Mike Woelke
> '48 F-4, Dump
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>



------------------------------

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