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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list pre61-list); Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:49:29 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:49:29 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: pre61-list digest users <listar Reply-to: pre61-list Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #157 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ pre61-list Digest Mon, 21 Aug 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 157 In This Issue: Re: Radiator Re: Radiator window seals Fwd: Re: Radiator Re: window seals Fuel Pump 53 Horn Button Re: 53 Horn Button Re: 53 Horn Button Panel truck repair panels Re: Fuel Pump - carb emptying ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MichellHC Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 20:11:27 EDT Subject: Re: Radiator If you intend to drop in a 302, I would go ahead and buy a new radiator designed for thirteen to fifteen Lbs. pressure. If you pay to have your old one repaired, it will just start leaking again when you install your later model engine. Michelle Chelle's 56 hauler ------------------------------ From: JRFiero Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 21:34:56 EDT Subject: Re: Radiator In a message dated 8/21/2000 7:10:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, PWPTRUCK1 > these old radiators are designed to run on > about 4 pounds of pressure. If you plan on installing a 302 or 351, you will > need to change radiators that can handle the 15 pounds of pressure that > these later engines use. An old radiator is sure to blow to smitherines if you use > it. A friend of mine found this out the hard way with his 50 Ford. He used a > flathead radiator with a 302 (with a few modifications, of course) and it > wasn't long until the top tank blew off. It's not the engine that determines the pressure, it's just the cap. Higher pressures allow running a higher temperature coolant without boiling, but if you run 180 thermostats in a flathead or a 351 you can still run the original radiator, which was 2 lbs pressure if I recall correctly. 'Course, if the old rad won't keep the motor cool, and the coolant boils, and the pressure cap can't relieve the pressure fast enough, then you'll blow the rad at whatever its weakest point is. Flatheads put out an amazing amount of heat, and a good rad which will keep a flathead cool will also keep a smallblock cool. Use a shroud, or an electric fan, and as long as the rad can transfer enough heat, you're fine. ------------------------------ From: "Lindsay" <rgilbertso Subject: window seals Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 20:52:08 -0500 Hello everyone, Where is the best place to get the window seals for a 48 1 ton? I need all the rubber and the felt seal. Roy ------------------------------ From: PWPTRUCK1 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 23:37:44 EDT Subject: Fwd: Re: Radiator In a message dated 8/21/2000 6:36:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, JRFiero > which was 2 lbs pressure if I recall correctly My manual may be wrong, but it claims 4 lbs. That was just what I was going by. The rest is past experiences from fellow Forders in my area that they warned me about. Whether they ran the correct radiator cap or not, I do not know. Paul 52 F-3 -- Attached file included as plaintext by Listar -- Return-Path: <pre61-list-bounce Received: from rly-ye01.mx.aol.com (rly-ye01.mail.aol.com [172.18.151.198]) by air-ye04.mx.aol.com (v75_b3.11) with ESMTP; Mon, 21 Aug 2000 21:36:00 -0400 Received: from ford-trucks.com (ford-trucks.com [209.50.251.152]) by rly-ye01.mx.aol.com (v75_b3.9) with ESMTP; Mon, 21 Aug 2000 21:35:51 -0400 Received: from ford-trucks.com (ford-trucks.com [209.50.251.152]) by ford-trucks.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id UAA12741; Mon, 21 Aug 2000 20:38:23 -0400 Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list pre61-list); Mon, 21 Aug 2000 20:38:22 -0400 (EDT) Received: from imo-r04.mx.aol.com (imo-r04.mx.aol.com [152.163.225.4]) by ford-trucks.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id UAA12732 for <pre61-list From: JRFiero Received: from JRFiero by imo-r04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v27.12.) id s.74.25b7e84 (4213) for <pre61-list Message-ID: <74.25b7e84.26d332c0 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 21:34:56 EDT Subject: [pre61-list] Re: Radiator To: pre61-list MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 119 X-listar-version: Listar v0.129a Sender: pre61-list-bounce Errors-to: pre61-list-bounce X-original-sender: JRFiero Precedence: list Reply-to: pre61-list X-list: pre61-list In a message dated 8/21/2000 7:10:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, PWPTRUCK1 > these old radiators are designed to run on > about 4 pounds of pressure. If you plan on installing a 302 or 351, you will > need to change radiators that can handle the 15 pounds of pressure that > these later engines use. An old radiator is sure to blow to smitherines if you use > it. A friend of mine found this out the hard way with his 50 Ford. He used a > flathead radiator with a 302 (with a few modifications, of course) and it > wasn't long until the top tank blew off. It's not the engine that determines the pressure, it's just the cap. Higher pressures allow running a higher temperature coolant without boiling, but if you run 180 thermostats in a flathead or a 351 you can still run the original radiator, which was 2 lbs pressure if I recall correctly. 'Course, if the old rad won't keep the motor cool, and the coolant boils, and the pressure cap can't relieve the pressure fast enough, then you'll blow the rad at whatever its weakest point is. Flatheads put out an amazing amount of heat, and a good rad which will keep a flathead cool will also keep a smallblock cool. Use a shroud, or an electric fan, and as long as the rad can transfer enough heat, you're fine. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: PWPTRUCK1 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 23:41:21 EDT Subject: Re: window seals Hi Roy, I recently purchased all the window rubber and felt for my 52 F-3 from Sac Vintage. They also sell a kit for the window felt that comes with all the felt and the divider bars. It was easy to install and looks very nice. Paul 52 F-3 ------------------------------ Date: 22 Aug 2000 10:37:21 -0500 From: Randy K Selby <Selby_Randy_K Subject: Fuel Pump When I leave my truck alone for a few days, the fuel siphons back to the tank from the pump bowl. Makes the truck take a long time to get started. Anyone else have this problem? Is there an easy fix? It's a '50 F-1 with 239 flatty. Thanks. Randy ------------------------------ From: "O'Connell, Dennis M" <DMO1 Subject: 53 Horn Button Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 09:13:44 -0700 A friend just picked up a straight 53 minus hood, 1 running board and a few misc items for $300. He got in and started cleaning it up and noticed the steering wheel horn button said something about 1903 - 1953 fifty anniversary. I could be a little wrong about the language, but is this a standard button that came on the truck or does he have some other steering wheel on it. Thanks in advance Dennis 55F100 ------------------------------ From: "Larry Esau" <lee03 Subject: Re: 53 Horn Button Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 09:28:37 -0700 Many of us call the '53 Ford "the anniversary truck" because of that steering wheel. Yes, it was standard on the '53s in the Ford 50th Anniversary year of 1953, and it is the reason I think the '53 F-100 is so cool. Larry, Kingsburg CA ----- Original Message ----- From: O'Connell, Dennis M <DMO1 To: <pre61-list Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 9:13 AM Subject: [pre61-list] 53 Horn Button > A friend just picked up a straight 53 minus hood, 1 running board and a few > misc items for $300. He got in and started cleaning it up and noticed the > steering wheel horn button said something about 1903 - 1953 fifty > anniversary. I could be a little wrong about the language, but is this a > standard button that came on the truck or does he have some other steering > wheel on it. > > Thanks in advance > Dennis > 55F100 > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: "Gary L. Perry" <glperry Subject: Re: 53 Horn Button Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:16:01 -0500 53 is 50th anniversery of Ford trucks. That was stock wheel and they get big $$$ for an anniversary button like that. Clean carefully and guard it well! Check some vendors catalogs for price of button repro! G. L. Perry Huntington, IN 54 Chevy 2-ton (driver) 50 Chevy COE (project) MM Jet Star 3 Super (tractor) -----Original Message----- From: O'Connell, Dennis M <DMO1 To: 'pre61-list Date: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 11:23 AM Subject: [pre61-list] 53 Horn Button >A friend just picked up a straight 53 minus hood, 1 running board and a few >misc items for $300. He got in and started cleaning it up and noticed the >steering wheel horn button said something about 1903 - 1953 fifty >anniversary. I could be a little wrong about the language, but is this a >standard button that came on the truck or does he have some other steering >wheel on it. > >Thanks in advance >Dennis >55F100 >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: "Bob Jones" <bobj Subject: Panel truck repair panels Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:17:32 -0500 Does anyone know of a place that sells rear quarter repair panels for '48-52 panel trucks? Also can someone tell me if the floor panels spot weld to the side panels on these truck if not how do they attach? On both of panels I just bought , one a donor and one main, I don't see any kind of weld. Bob Jones 1949 F-2 1948 F-1 panel (New addition) ------------------------------ From: JRFiero Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 19:45:54 EDT Subject: Re: Fuel Pump - carb emptying In a message dated 8/22/2000 11:42:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Selby_Randy_K > When I leave my truck alone for a few days, the fuel siphons back to the tank > from the pump bowl. Makes the truck take a long time to get started. Anyone > else have this problem? Is there an easy fix? It's a '50 F-1 with 239 > flatty. > Mine does the same thing, but I don't think it's a siphon issue. Since there is an air gap between the inlet valve and the fuel in the bowl, siphoning it doesn't explain it. I've not looked into it thoroughly, but the carb must be leaking, inside or out. I use a little squirt bottle of gas, pull the air cleaner and fill the bowl through the vent pipe. Pain in the butt, but it saves the battery. ------------------------------ End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #157 *********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- <><><><><><> Serious Help Finding That Part! <><><><><><> Ford Truck Enthusiasts now has "Ford Products Interchange" manuals in its online store. Two editions: 1950-1965 and 1963-1974. Cross references thousands of Ford parts. <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/"> http://www.motorhaven.com/</a> .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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