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pre61-list Digest Sun, 20 Aug 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 156

In This Issue:
Volare IFS Sway Bar
Re: Volare IFS Sway Bar
Radiator
Re: Radiator
Re: Radiator

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: thegman ntelos.net
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 17:17:50 -0400
Subject: Volare IFS Sway Bar

Does anyone know where I can get a front sway bar for my 54 panel, which
has a Volare IFS?  I have a rear bar already on the panel, but it still
leans a little too much.

Thanks,
Paul


------------------------------

From: "Gary L. Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: Re: Volare IFS Sway Bar
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 23:04:16 -0500

Ummm! From a Volarie? or other Mopar Junk?

G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN
54 Chevy 2-ton (driver)
50 Chevy COE (project)
MM Jet Star 3 Super (tractor)
-----Original Message-----
From: thegman ntelos.net <thegman ntelos.net>
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com <pre61-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, August 20, 2000 9:23 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] Volare IFS Sway Bar


>Does anyone know where I can get a front sway bar for my 54 panel, which
>has a Volare IFS?  I have a rear bar already on the panel, but it still
>leans a little too much.
>
>Thanks,
>Paul
>
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>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
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------------------------------

From: bellx2 erols.com
Subject: Radiator
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:36:07 -0400


Fellow FTE'rs.  Last night after a 100 mile or so run, I popped the hood and  found a two spots of coolant "seep" in the horizontal seam where the top of the radiator joins the body of the radiator.  There was some evidence of coolant loss, as there were several spots of dried coolant on the radiator top and in the fins.

My questions .. is this the beginning of the end for the 50 YO radiator, or can I just drop some Stop Leak in there and truck on?  Is this the weak point from which the radiator will try to imitate Old Faithful some day when I'm 200 miles from home?  I've seen a couple of recent ads for a replacement radiator for (I think) $325.00.  Is this the best way?  Is this one of those areas where you get what you pay for?  Is there a late model "bolt-in" or one that will drop in with minor mods?  I may need the increased cooling capability soon, as when my bank account and wife unit agree, I plan to slip in a 302 or 351.

Ray
'50 F-1


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:17:44 -0600
From: "William Whited (Tony)" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator

Do not put stop leak in it.  I did it in mine and it split there the next day.  You can call around to some ad shops they should be able to fix it and replace some stuff for less then a new one.
--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi


bellx2 erols.com wrote:

> Fellow FTE'rs.  Last night after a 100 mile or so run, I popped the hood and  found a two spots of coolant "seep" in the horizontal seam where the top of the radiator joins the body of the radiator.  There was some evidence of coolant loss, as there were several spots of dried coolant on the radiator top and in the fins.
>
> My questions .. is this the beginning of the end for the 50 YO radiator, or can I just drop some Stop Leak in there and truck on?  Is this the weak point from which the radiator will try to imitate Old Faithful some day when I'm 200 miles from home?  I've seen a couple of recent ads for a replacement radiator for (I think) $325.00.  Is this the best way?  Is this one of those areas where you get what you pay for?  Is there a late model "bolt-in" or one that will drop in with minor mods?  I may need the increased cooling capability soon, as when my bank account and wife unit agree, I plan to slip in a 302 or 351.
>
> Ray
> '50 F-1





------------------------------

From: PWPTRUCK1 aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 19:09:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator

Ray, like the other reply you got, I would not use stop leak. You may try
your local radiator shop to seek repairs. My '52 radiator was shot, so I had
the core replaced. It cost about 200 dollars to get the new core. I thought
it was a better deal than ordering a completely new rad for 300 to  400
bucks. One thing to keep in mind, these old radiators are designed to run on
about 4 pounds of pressure. If you plan on installing a 302 or 351, you will
need to change radiators that can handle the 15 pounds of pressure that these
later engines use. An old radiator is sure to blow to smitherines if you use
it. A friend of mine found this out the hard way with his 50 Ford. He used a
flathead radiator with a 302 (with a few modifications, of course) and it
wasn't long until the top tank blew off.

Hope this helps
Paul
52 F-3

------------------------------

End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #156
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