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From: owner-pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com (pre61-list-digest)
To: pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list-digest V4 #12
Reply-To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com
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pre61-list-digest Friday, January 14 2000 Volume 04 : Number 012



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - My Truck is Whining
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing
RE: FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing
Re: FTE Pre61 - Question to F150 Guy
FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing
FTE Pre61 - vo-lar-e...whow-o-o-o, volare, o-o-o
FTE Pre61 - Peter and the 3/4 ton drums
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing

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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 06:33:40 -0500
From: The Neighbors ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE Pre61 - My Truck is Whining

The last few days I've been hearing a noise develop in my truck that is
getting me concerned. It is a dying bearing kind of noise that I hear
when the truck is in motion. The noise begins when I release the clutch
pedal, and seems to be related to engine rpm. The noise does NOT occur
in neutral. I have a gut feeling it's inside the transmission, but I'd
love it if somebody could tell me otherwise.
- --
Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
inaccessible part of the vehicle."

grover ford-trucks.com
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 21:52:59 -0500
From: "Thomas J. Teixeira" world.std.com>
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing

At 07:26 PM 01/12/2000 -0800, sam fugate wrote:
>The black is actually RUST, The same thing as black oxide process. It seals
>the base metal from the elements and keeps it from flaking, does essentially
>the same thing as POR 15

Not quite. I thought that phosphoric acid + iron oxide(rust) formed iron
phosphate (the black stuff). I've never used POR 15, but I thought the
descriptions were that it was different than phosphoric acid.

Anyway, the iron phosphate is supposed to be harder than iron and I think
may also form a seal.

Tom Teixeira '35 pickup http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://world.std.com/~tjt/35Pickup.html

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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 06:55:59 -0800
From: "O'Connell, Dennis M" pge.com>
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing

I first redid my 55's frame in 93 and I brushed on the Por15. Since then
I've tried other products (both professional and hardware store variety)for
rust on my, excuse the term, El Camino. I have found nothing that was as
easy, as durable or as great a finish as POR15. It's going on 7 years now
and it hasn't flaked, rusted or chipped. I've accidently hit it with
hammers and tools and it didn't even chip. I can still take a rag and just
wipe it off and it looks great. The only thing you have to watch out for is
that it is UV sensitive. If your going to paint something that is exposed
to direct sunlight then it needs to be recoated with a top coat. If your
building a driver you won't have to worry as much about the frame chipping
like you do with other paints.

I can't say enough about any of their products.

Dennis
55F100

> ----------
> From: Thomas J. Teixeira[SMTP:tjt world.std.com]
> Reply To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 6:52 PM
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing
>
>
>
> Not quite. I thought that phosphoric acid + iron oxide(rust) formed iron
> phosphate (the black stuff). I've never used POR 15, but I thought the
> descriptions were that it was different than phosphoric acid.
>
> Anyway, the iron phosphate is supposed to be harder than iron and I think
> may also form a seal.
>
> Tom Teixeira '35 pickup http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://world.std.com/~tjt/35Pickup.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 10:58:14 EST
From: Cdalep aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Question to F150 Guy

Regarding the 99 with engine knock. A similar situation resulted in me
getting a perfectly good fuel injected 5.0 and the problem was not in the
engine but supposedly in the fuel delivery system. Had to do with the in tank
fuel pump.
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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 10:42:03 -0600
From: "Terry" ticnet.com>
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing

What I have good luck with is a two part epoxy primer like Ditzler DP90 and
DP 402. If you sandblast the frame, it should be ready to shoot on the
primer. It can also be brushed on. This stuff goes on smooth and is pretty
much bullet proof. Phosphoric is used extensively for metal conditioner and
will usually remove light surface rust. But the residue it leaves does not
make for a good base for some paints to stick very well. It will also dry
leaving the brush marks or residue buildup showing through the topcoat. I
dont know If the POR15 is a two part mix. If it is then its basically an
epoxy type sealer also. But I have not used it before. It seems the easy fix
for the DIY that doesnt have access to everything a body shop makes use of.


>> I am down to the frame of my project now-I am planning to sandblast and
>> rustproof- I have been reading about por15 etc I was in home depot and
>asked


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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 20:32:52 EST
From: A61fordtruck aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - vo-lar-e...whow-o-o-o, volare, o-o-o

Hey everybody,
I'm back in the US from europe and began to tear apart my '61 stepside today
for restoration and... I pulled the truck out of the shed where it had sat
for 2 years, put in a hot battery, and it fired up on about the 4th try. the
clutch was stuck, but it broke loose after about 10 feet of cranking. (Try
that with a 90's truck sometime!)

I am thinking of installing a Volare clip and have a serious question. why
does everybody notch the frame? would it not be more easy to use the 4 stock
mounting points, fabricate some brackets and bolt it all in? why all the
cutting and welding? Please somebody inlighten me.

Greg Schnakenberg
61 stepside, soon to be "ex ugly" "ex airforce" work truck
65 custom cab (for sale to good home)
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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 18:48:27 PST
From: "John Steele" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Peter and the 3/4 ton drums

I have a set of cherry drums, brakes and backing plates. I had just done
the job and then rolled my truck off a cliff. I saved the drums. I then
went on to restore a 1/2 ton that I bought as a parts truck. John.
______________________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 23:13:59 EST
From: APoppert aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: rust proofing

The phosphoric acid does indeed convert the iron oxide (rust) to a stable
form but you must coat it or it will deteriorate. Personal experience, spray
paints don't last. If you have the ability use a catalyzed primer like DP40 &
paint with catalyzed urethane paint of the same brand. But, another option is
POR15 it is good, advantages: no matter how good you are with a spray gun you
will not be able to coat ALL the nooks a crannies, with POR15 and a brush I
am. It is easy to use & safe, yes it does need a top coat to keep from
discoloring.
My process for frames: Pressure wash w/ a steam ginny, scrap gunk as needed,
sand blast, inspect, blast, (never seems to end), phosphoric acid (sprayed
on) Let it dry! then paint. Don't rush YOU WILL miss spots.
Opinion: urethane is most durable... Allen
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------------------------------....


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