From: owner-pre61-list-digest (pre61-list-digest)
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Subject: pre61-list-digest V3 #360
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pre61-list-digest Saturday, December 11 1999 Volume 03 : Number 360

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Brake Master Cylinder
FTE Pre61 - online engine specs
FTE Pre61 - I Had to Chime In
FTE Pre61 - Re: 60 hubcaps
Re: FTE Pre61 - Wheels
FTE Pre61 - Fan and Fan Shroud
FTE Pre61 - flathead waterpumps
FTE Pre61 - Fan and Fan Shroud
FTE Pre61 - 1950 ford on ebay
Re: FTE Pre61 - Wheels
FTE Pre61 - 53 rear end
Re: FTE Pre61 - xmembers



Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 09:18:24 -0600
From: "Charlie Powell"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Brake Master Cylinder

I am installing disc brakes (Volare front end) on the front of my 55
F-100, and 9" rear end with drum brakes on the rear. I have installed a
'78 Mustang brake booster under the floor using the clutch pedal bracket
assembly. I am unsure what year model master cylinder to use. I would
like to use one that has the fittings on the fender side, so when I
mount it on the brake booster the fittings will be facing the drive
shaft. All of the master cylinders that I have looked at has the
fittings on the opposite side. I would also like to install a cylinder
with a 1" cup diameter. I plan on installing 2# residual value for the
front and 10# residual valve for the rear, and use a proportioning valve
from a '78 T-Bird. Has anyone use this setup? If anyone has any
information that they can share, I would certainly like to hear from
you. Thank you for any help.


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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 10:41:35 -0500
From: Geoffrey Janes
Subject: FTE Pre61 - online engine specs

I am replacing the rocker arm assemblies on my 57 ford f100. I was
wondering if there is anywhere I can lookup up (online) specifications such
as torque, clearance and gap. I do not yet own the shop manual, and am
hoping to get the info online.



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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:32:08 -0500
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE Pre61 - I Had to Chime In

I had a chance to actually READ me Pre '61 email today! Woohoo! I saw a
few threads I would like to add my $.02 to.
Fan and Shroud - I just rebuilt a 239 Cleveland, and I scavenged some
parts off the 256 that was in Grover when I got him home. While the fan
mounted up the same (High mount), I found the water pumps were different
sizes. The 239 had a larger pump than the 256. It would be a VERY good
idea to compare pump sizes. Also, while at a swap meet some time back, I
found out that while the car and truck pumps are similar, the fan pulley
is bolted to the car water pump, and on the truck it is pressed on.
Otherwise the pumps are interchangeable, if the size is the same.
As for the fellow with the 239/272 interchange problems, it may be your
239 is an early Detroit block, as compared to the later Cleveland
engine. I got lucky and found a 239 Cleveland. All Y-blocks after late
'54 are Cleveland engines.
Door Locks - I, too, live someplace where I can get away with leaving
the key in the ignition. I've left a toolbox out, the car's trunk open
overnight, the keys in the ignition, and once I even left the driver's
side door wide open (I am very forgetful) and I've never had a problem
in this town.
As for door and ignition keys, I actually like the two keys to be
different. Don't ask me why, just a quirk of my nature.
Radials on Stock Rims - Oh PLEASE let my 16" retreads wear out quickly
so I can mount radials!!! The sidewalls on those tires are so stiff that
there has to be a vacuum present in the tires before they look low! For
daily driving, radials are far superior to bias plies in every way I can
think of. The only time I will ever use bias ply tires on Grover again
is if I ever get him restored to the point I actually show him, and then
the tires will be mounted on an extra set of rims.
Okay, so the above was more opinion than info, but I have spoken my
piece. :-)
- --
Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
inaccessible part of the vehicle."

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 12:28:38 EST
From: AMorgan351
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: 60 hubcaps

You might try "Hubcap City" in San Jose Calif.
I got some truck hubcaps for my 57 there - used original - but I was able to
bring them back to life.
They are not "organized" so a picture of the hubcap faxed to them would
probably help. I did a lot of poking around the yard.

no-name 57
In a message dated 12/10/1999 2:53:10 AM Pacific Standard Time,
owner-pre61-list-digest writes:

> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - xmembers
> Can anyone help me find original hubcaps for my 1960 F-100? I want to get
> them for my dad for Christmas, but don't know where to start looking. Any
> help is appreciated. Thanks!
> Dean-o
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:36:47 -0500
From: chevman
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Wheels

I have a 1949 F1 and I am interested in original style wheels that
will accept radials. Can you furnish address ect
for Stockton Wheels.

On Thu, 9 Dec 1999 07:09:59 -0800 Carver writes:
> I haven't bought them yet, but Stockton Wheel quoted me $65 each
> to build wheels in the original style but made for radials. They
> actually build them. I could specify the width, offset, etc.
> Coker wanted $75 and were only availble in one width/offset, and
> with a no return policy. Guess who I'm going with when the time
> comes! www.stocktonwheel or something as easy as that, don't have
> it bookmarked, it's that easy to find.
> Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:04:57 -0600
From: "Roger Hughes"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Fan and Fan Shroud

47Fred wrote:

>Between the two of use, and if it were me, I'd use the original
>engine parts on the new engine.....All that
>water pump and other stuff should interchange, leaving a stock look, and
>no clearance problems.

Michelle wrote:

>Check to see if the water pump from the 239 will fit the 292. If so buy a
>water pump and go that rout. It is possible that the 292 engine came form a
>passenger car, and has a different set up for the water pump. I am a little
>pressed for time at the moment, but I will run some part numbers for you
t>onight, and see what will fit what.

I was slowly coming to that conclusion myself, especially since the 239
water pump is almost new and has seen little use. I did have a hard time
locating that pump, the only place that new the difference was Concours
Parts in California. I was hoping to gain better parts availability with
the 292 as well as better performance. Seems like the easiest way to go,
and I am not overly concerned with originality aspect. I plan to hot rod
the truck in the early hot rod style so the engine will be modified anyway.
I figure will need the crank shaft pulley as well for the fan belt.

The engine was pulled from a 55 F100 but I did not see the truck. It was
not the original engine in that truck, but it had a truck bell housing with
a 3 spd OD trans attached. It is possible the engine came from a car since
it has a front sump oil pan, but it had the front engine mount attached as
well. Hard to say one way or the other, I guess parts is parts.

Thanks for your input, it is very appreciated.

55 F100

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:09:52 -0600
From: "Stephen W.Hansen"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - flathead waterpumps

A few weeks ago I asked about how to remove the pulleys from the water pumps
for rebuilding. No one had any solutions except trying to sell me a new
water pump as it was "not cost effective" to rebuild them. Motor city
flathead does sell pulleys and a rebuild kit is only about 25$ each. I went
to the junk yard and got several matching pulleys and chopped them off of
the water pumps and successfully rebuilt the pumps. Eventually I may end up
buying a replacement set of pulleys, or I may even go for the polished
aluminum set
that bolts onto the shaft, never have to worry about it again. I also
noticed that the rebuild kit is modified like the replacement waterpumps are
for longer life.
Just what I've learned this week..

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:58:14 -0600
From: "Roger Hughes"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Fan and Fan Shroud

Dave wrote:

>I have been in a similar situation where I purchase another Y-block that I
>was told was a 272 out of a 1955 truck. To my amazement the engine has
>nothing in common with my 239. Nothing will interchange. The engine code
>on the heads show EAL6090A. Does anyone know what kind of Y-block this

Dave check the driver side of the block for a casting number. Should be 3
letters and 6015. Also look for a date code. Ford's method of identifying
engine parts followed indusry standards in that each part had a number cast
onto it. On Y-blocks, that number consists of letters and numbers in a
particular order. A typical part number might be B5A9-9425-D which is an
intake manifold from a 1955 292 engine. It breaks down as follows:

B: this letter indicares the decade - B is 1950-59
5: this number indicates the year of the decade - 1955
A9: this is a Ford carline number
9425: these four numbers are a subgroup for intake manifolds
D: is an application suffix code

Date codes were also used. Atypical date code might be 9 B16. The 9
indicates the last digit of the year, for Y-blocks it would be 1959. The B
indicates the month, in this case February, ranging from A for January to M
for December, I was not used.

From Street Rodder Mag Y-Notta Y-Block article the codes for 292 blocks are

1955 ECK, ECJ 1959 -60 B9AE
1956 ECZ, EDB 1961- 62 C1AE, C2AE
1957 ECZ, EDB 1963-64 C2AE all were trucks
1958 EDB

This is a short list but covers many Y-blocks since the majority were 292s.
If you give me the casting number I can check to see what it matches in my
books. I checked the cylinder head number you gave but came up empty. The
only casting numbers I found with L were ECL-A (272), ECL-B (292), ECL-C

There is also a date code for the date of manufacture that should be stamped
at the front of the block next to the edge of the valley cover. This is the
date the engine was assembled at Ford. Hope this helps.

55 F100

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 22:38:50 EST
From: Rwp50
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 1950 ford on ebay

I just this on ebay:
1950 Ford F-1 pickup restorable NR Item #213632557
Better hurry, only 3 hours left!!
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 22:15:39 -0600
From: JeffH
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Wheels

Yep, Stockton Wheels are at

Dept. 4WOR
648 W. Fremont St.
Stockton, CA 95203
Phone: 800.395.WHEEL -or- 209.464.7771. Fax: 209.464.4725.

That's according to their website.

Thanks for the info, Jeff. This will be a post-Christmas
venture for me, but I will certainly keep them in mind.

Another fine message brought to you by the Screaming Penguins:
Unnoficial site of the "John Madden for President" campaign!

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 23:18:47 EST
From: Larrykvet
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 53 rear end

I have a question about rear ends-I have a stock rear end- I replaced the
brake pads - seals right after I bought the truck- I was planning to drive
it- now I want a 9 " rear end-does anyone know which later fords trucks are
the same so that I can bolt up a new rear end and still use my recently
purchased brake parts - I would like not to purchase this all over since the
new brakes only have about 10-12 miles on them- thanks
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 22:37:20 -0600
From: JeffH
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - xmembers

At 08:00 PM 12/9/99 EST, Dean-o wrote:
>Can anyone help me find original hubcaps for my 1960 F-100? I want to get
>them for my dad for Christmas, but don't know where to start looking. Any
>help is appreciated. Thanks!

Hmmm (rummaging through my ever-growing catalog pile)...

Obsolete Ford Parts has 1948-60 hubcaps (1/2 ton), part
6A-1130-SS for $24.95 each Phone 1-800-654-3247,

Vintage Ford Parts has 1948-60 F-100 (polished stainless),
part 6A-1130-SS also for $24.95 each. Their # is
(714) 894-5464, don't have a website for them.

A couple of other catalogs had 1948-56 hubcaps, dunno
what the difference would be...


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