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pre61-list-digest Wednesday, November 10 1999 Volume 03 : Number 328



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Light towing with a '55 F100??
FTE Pre61 - Re: Locks
Re: FTE Pre61 - overheating
FTE Pre61 - drip rail sealer
Re: FTE Pre61 - overheating
Re: FTE Pre61 - '56 dor locks
RE: FTE Pre61 - '56 dor locks
FTE Pre61 - drip rail sealer

=======================================================================

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Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 14:40:47 -0800
From: Mike Sharp
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Light towing with a '55 F100??

Hi folks,

I've been contemplating mounting either a class 3 receiver/hitch
or a later style rear bumper with integral 2" ball hitch.

It looks like if I go for the receiver I need to get rid of my stock
back bumper. If I go with a later style rear bumper I need to
figure out if its a straight bolt-up, or if I need to do some
fabrication to get everything to go together.

I'd welcome comments on either option or any other solution.
I'd also welcome pointers to suppliers though I've already got
a few.

I'm sure someone out there must have gone down this road
before. My preference is to do something reversable. I'd
likely go the rental route if I have to seriously alter my truck
or turn it over to an installer that hasn't worked on anything
older than an SUV.

The truck in question will be used _very_ seldomly for things
like hauling body shells of small cars to the body shop,
pickup up ditch-witches/bobcats at the local rental shop,
and the like. I have _NO_ intention of doing any really
heavy hauling.

--Mike


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 18:00:05 -0500
From: "Gemini"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Locks

Thanks to everyone who helped me clear up the different lock phenomena that
was customary in old trucks. I just thought I would let everyone know that I
finally got her running today. Maybe tomorrow I can make her stop. ;)

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 18:22:01 -0500
From: "Bill Robinson"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - overheating

Also, if you take the heads off you might find that the water passages are
completely clogged.
When I took mine off, the largest water passage hole from head to block was
closed down to
1/8". Amazingly, it purred like a kitten. Of course I never went more than a
1/4 mile from the
storage yard to the hanger/garage where I worked on it.
I just tore down another 8BA & it was exactly the same. I don't think
thermostata, washers or
anything short of a good cleaning in the hot tank will help.
Bill

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan Laray
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 2:08 AM
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - overheating


>This is a hot topic (pardon the pun) with all engines. But the circulation
rate
>does a direct bearing on the ability of heat exchange, which is what youa
re
>after. The entire environment that coolant travels through is heated, so
the only
>question is how much time it has to dissipate before re-entering the
engine,
>which again raises the base temperature of the coolant. I'm not familiar
with the
>layout of the flathead, but does the coolant also have to cool the trans
fluid?
>What type of radiator are you running?You might look into an external
cooler that
>is thermostat controlled.
>Dan
>56 F100
>
>"Thomas J. Teixeira" wrote:
>
>> At 11:07 AM 11/08/1999 -0500, DEADOAK aol.com wrote:
>> >The flathead V8 in my 52 Mercury want take thermostats. It overheats
when I
>> >try to install them. Does anyone have a solution for this problem.
I've
>> >been told there are "compression washers" are some such thing to use
that
>> >work in place of the thermostats but I don't know anything about them.
>>
>> This is the source of much debate on the flathead list hosted at
>> onelist.com. The "compression washers" are usually just called flow
>> restrictors. They are just washers put into the radiator hoses, and you
>> keep drilling the center hole a little larger until the temperature
reaches
>> the best temperature
>>
>> Lots of people swear they work, but the simple physical model says they
>> shouldn't. The physical model says the more flow through the radiator,
the
>> lower the operating temperature. It's easy to see that a thermostat might
>> restrict the flow too much, but more difficult to see why flow
restrictors
>> would make the engine run cooler than with no thermostats and no
>> restrictions. The usual explanation, "the water doesn't stay in the
>> radiator long enough to cool off without the flow restrictors" ignores
the
>> fact that it also doesn't stay in the engine long enough to heat up
either.
>> It may be that without some restriction, the water goes in a jet through
>> the main radiator passages and doesn't flow through all of the radiator.
>> Other possibilities are reducing cavitation and air bubbles.
>>
>> What sort of shape are your radiator, heads and engine block in?
Flatheads
>> are notorious for trapping lots of sand in the water passages inside the
>> block, plus you may have 50 years or more of rust and scale.
>>
>> Tom Teixeira '35 pickup http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://world.std.com/~tjt/35Pickup.html
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 15:23:06 PST
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - drip rail sealer

Did the same thing to my 60 panel a couple years ago. I used a small torch,
applied flame directly to caulking - it gets soft & much easier to scrape
out with a narrow blade (I used an old wood chisle). Don't let it start to
burn or get crispy, just soften it up. If you can't risk damaging paint
(mine needs paint anyway ) try a heat gun. After that, sand blast, clean &
prime with a self etching primer like PPG DP 90.
The best sealer I have found is 3M 5200. It's a marine sealant & has a
usable life of 50 yrs! Just apply with caulking gun, then smooth out with a
small acid brush (It will flow a little better if it's warm) It takes about
48 hrs to dry but will last forever, & it's paintable. It's not easy work,
but what is if you want it right. Good luck

John

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 20:02:28 EST
From: DEADOAK aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - overheating

Thanks sounds like a good place to start.

Charles
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 21:24:55 -0800
From: Dan Laray
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - '56 dor locks

So what is the difference in cabs? My 56 has locks on both sides and as far as
I can tell they are original.
Dan 56 F-100

Joe Lusk wrote:

> My '56 F-100 (with a '58 292) apparently has an incorrect temperature
> sending unit. The one in it has a single threaded post. From the truck's
> wiring and the shop manuals I have seen, it appears that the correct
> sending unit should have two blade type terminals. I've had difficulty
> locating one of these units. I have talked to a couple of vendors that
> have advertised availability in their catalogs, but found that what they
> have won't work with my gauge. Does someone have any info on the operation
> of the temp gauge in the '56? It appears to operate "backwards". That is,
> with power off, the gauge sits at the far right (hot side). When started,
> the gauge swings to the left and acts "normal", creeping to the normal
> range as the engine heats up. Is this the way it was made or has someone
> dinked with something? I don't really see how someone could have done
> anything to make it do this. It must have come this way from the factory,
> right? I guess if it works, it works. Just seems odd.
>
> One more info request, then a reply. A couple of months ago, transmissions
> were discussed in Street Rodder Magazine's "Y Notta Y Block" series.
> Sounded like the Y-block bellhousing pattern is the same as the FE engines
> (or vice versa), so theoretically a trans from a later model FE-powered
> vehicle would "bolt up", with perhaps only a clutch disk change (yeah, the
> word "only" is dangerous). They referred to a couple of 4 speed manual
> w/OD transmissions from the late '70s trucks or vans (but I would be fine
> with a 3OD too...). Anybody tried anything like this? I don't haul much
> more than myself to work or my 5-year-old daughter on a "date" and I'm
> looking for some gas mileage improvement.
>
> Also, for "Gemini"
>
> >I just bought a 54 Ford for a project truck
> >and on reinspection noticed that there is no
> >inner door locks or a lock on the driver's door.
>
> I believe there was some discussion on this a month or so ago. The doors
> lock from the inside by pushing the handles forward. My '56 has only a
> passenger door key lock. Even before the discussion, I had assumed it was
> because in the days these trucks were made, the typical scenario was to run
> into town for supplies, park at the curb and slide out on the passenger's
> side. Watch Andy Griffith or something like that. Seems I remember Goober
> having a '56 F-100.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Joe
> '56 F-100 w/'58 292, 3 speed
> '59 Studebaker Lark VI
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 22:28:00 -0700
From: "Kitchen, Ken"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - '56 dor locks

Some upper trim level cabs came with locks on both sides. I have a 55 Custom
Cab that has locks on both sides. I think that is the difference.

Ken Kitchen

> ----------
> From: Dan Laray[SMTP:dlaray earthlink.net]
> Reply To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 10:24 PM
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - '56 dor locks
>
> So what is the difference in cabs? My 56 has locks on both sides and as
> far as
> I can tell they are original.
> Dan 56 F-100
>
> Joe Lusk wrote:
>
> > My '56 F-100 (with a '58 292) apparently has an incorrect temperature
> > sending unit. The one in it has a single threaded post. From the
> truck's
> > wiring and the shop manuals I have seen, it appears that the correct
> > sending unit should have two blade type terminals. I've had difficulty
> > locating one of these units. I have talked to a couple of vendors that
> > have advertised availability in their catalogs, but found that what they
> > have won't work with my gauge. Does someone have any info on the
> operation
> > of the temp gauge in the '56? It appears to operate "backwards". That
> is,
> > with power off, the gauge sits at the far right (hot side). When
> started,
> > the gauge swings to the left and acts "normal", creeping to the normal
> > range as the engine heats up. Is this the way it was made or has
> someone
> > dinked with something? I don't really see how someone could have done
> > anything to make it do this. It must have come this way from the
> factory,
> > right? I guess if it works, it works. Just seems odd.
> >
> > One more info request, then a reply. A couple of months ago,
> transmissions
> > were discussed in Street Rodder Magazine's "Y Notta Y Block" series.
> > Sounded like the Y-block bellhousing pattern is the same as the FE
> engines
> > (or vice versa), so theoretically a trans from a later model FE-powered
> > vehicle would "bolt up", with perhaps only a clutch disk change (yeah,
> the
> > word "only" is dangerous). They referred to a couple of 4 speed manual
> > w/OD transmissions from the late '70s trucks or vans (but I would be
> fine
> > with a 3OD too...). Anybody tried anything like this? I don't haul
> much
> > more than myself to work or my 5-year-old daughter on a "date" and I'm
> > looking for some gas mileage improvement.
> >
> > Also, for "Gemini"
> >
> > >I just bought a 54 Ford for a project truck
> > >and on reinspection noticed that there is no
> > >inner door locks or a lock on the driver's door.
> >
> > I believe there was some discussion on this a month or so ago. The
> doors
> > lock from the inside by pushing the handles forward. My '56 has only a
> > passenger door key lock. Even before the discussion, I had assumed it
> was
> > because in the days these trucks were made, the typical scenario was to
> run
> > into town for supplies, park at the curb and slide out on the
> passenger's
> > side. Watch Andy Griffith or something like that. Seems I remember
> Goober
> > having a '56 F-100.
> >
> > Thanks for your help,
> >
> > Joe
> > '56 F-100 w/'58 292, 3 speed
> > '59 Studebaker Lark VI
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 00:53:19 EST
From: A62Unibody aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - drip rail sealer

Rix56,
3M makes a wheel you put on your die grinder or drill motor that fits in
the drip rail and sands out the old sealer. I like to use 3M brand Fast and
Firm sealer to fill all my seams. Dries pretty fast and not a big mess.
Just my thoughts.....


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