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Subject: pre61-list-digest V3 #312
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pre61-list-digest Thursday, October 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 312



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Guage Voltage
FTE Pre61 - Cost of '52 F-1
FTE Pre61 - RE: pre61-list- TO PAUL: Painting in Pieces
Re: FTE Pre61 - Cost of '52 F-1
Re: FTE Pre61 - RE: pre61-list- TO PAUL: Painting in Pieces
FTE Pre61 - 1957 1/2 TON PANEL TRUCK ROLLING CHASSIS
RE: FTE Pre61 - RE: pre61-list- TO PAUL: Painting in Pieces
Re: FTE Pre61 - 1957 1/2 TON PANEL TRUCK ROLLING CHASSIS
FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: New policy
FTE Pre61 - F-1 Transmission questions
FTE Pre61 - Re:Cause of a Dead Distributor Cap?

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Date: 27 Oct 1999 08:09:15 -0500
From: Randy K Selby
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Guage Voltage

I have an answer. I called the munufacturer of my wiring harness and got the
info. A voltage reducer is needed and this is what they recommend.

12 to 6 Voltage Reducer
NAPA part# VT6187


R Selby
selbyrk npoint.net
'50 F-1 - - - put the cab on last night
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 10:21:49 EDT
From: PBRUHN aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Cost of '52 F-1

Can anyone out there in Ford truck land tell me how much a 1952 Ford F-1 - V8
engine - regular cab (NOT 5 star) - sold for new?? Thanks a heap!! Bruno
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 07:25:44 -0700
From: GUYETTE Phillip
Subject: FTE Pre61 - RE: pre61-list- TO PAUL: Painting in Pieces

[GUYETTE Phillip] Hi Paul, like others, I painted my '52 F1 in
pieces and carefully reassembled it. While I'm reasonably pleased with the
results, I'd do it a little differently next time; I'd again strip all
surfaces to bare metal, epoxy prime everything, test fit every panel for
proper fit, but I'd only paint the inside of the cab, jambs, and surfaces I
couldn't get to after assembly. Once jammed and re-assembled, I'd paint the
exterior of the truck. The reason I'd do it this is three-fold: first,
even though all the paint for my truck came out of the same can, there are
minor differences in the color on some panels, secondly, I scratched the
finish in a few places during the re-assembly process, finally, the texture
(orange peel), while minor, is different on each shoot. One final
recommendation I would make would be to fit and adjust the doors (including
the dovetails and latches) with the weatherstrip installed before priming
and painting. Good luck with your project. Take your time, and don't
forget to have fun! Phillip

> Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:05:52 -0500
> From: "Stephen W.Hansen"
> Subject: [none]
>
> >Hi Gang.
> >I am planning on how I will paint my truck. I am doing a complete gound
> up
> >resto on my '52 F-3. The entire body and cab is completely taken apart.
> All
> >my sheet metal is primed and ready for paint. Can one of you tell me how
> I
> >should paint all this stuff before I assemble the body, or should I bolt
> it
> >all up and then paint?
>
> >Thanks,
> >Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 11:44:13 EDT
From: TNickolson aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Cost of '52 F-1

The cost of a 52 F1 with a six cyl. standard cab was $1,425.00. I don't know
what the charge for a Flathead V8 was. Their were 81,537 F1's built. This was
second to Chevy. Here are some facts from FORD literature that you might find
interesting:
Power Train options
Three speed with over drive
Heavy duty three speed (large clutch)
Heavy duty four speed floor shift

Convenience options
Grill Guard
Windshield washer
Heater- defroster
Heavy duty battery
Rear Bumper
Radio
Right hand sun visor
Turn singles
Seat Covers
Fire Extinguishers

Five Star Extra
Dome Light
Glove Box Lock
Locks for both doors
Deluxe door trim
Wind shield molding
Two tone upholstery
Foam rubber seat padding
Right hand and left hand sun visor
Deluxe hood trim

Colors
Black
Glen Mist
Meadow Green
Sheridan Blue
Sandpiper Tan
Vermilion
Wood smoke Gray

I have followed this list as I build " The General" he has every thing except
the wind shield washers.

This information came from a FORD publication.

Tom Nickolson
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 11:57:56 EDT
From: TNickolson aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - RE: pre61-list- TO PAUL: Painting in Pieces

Don't skimp on the quality of the primer. Two part epoxy I feel is the best,
check with you paint supplier and get a matching primer. I primed and painted
before I assembled the truck. If you paint after assembly the seams don't
look good and fender welting is the same color as the truck, it should be a
contrasting color and if painted at the final it will eventually crack and
peal. To protect your truck from future rusting you need to cover the exposed
metal as best possible. Places that you will never get to again paint them
with a final coat that pleases you, i.e., door jams. It took two people to
reassemble the truck to prevent scratches, and I used a touch up spray gun
for the places that got scratched.

Well, that's my two cents.

Tom Nickolson
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 14:12:03 EDT
From: RPFARQUAR cs.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 1957 1/2 TON PANEL TRUCK ROLLING CHASSIS

I HAVE A ROLLING CHASSIS WITH A REBUILT 6CYL, 3SPEED, CUSTOM WHEELS,ETC. ALL
IN GOOD CONDITION FOR SALE,VERY RESONABLE. CONTACT RON PRICE AT EMAIL ADDRESS
RPFARQUAR CS.COM
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 11:36:50 -0700
From: "O'Connell, Dennis M"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - RE: pre61-list- TO PAUL: Painting in Pieces

Another option when doing the final coat, is to do whatever you want in
pieces(color matching can be an issue). as to the fenders, mount them
loosely, away from bed and cab, shoot the finish coat, add the welt and
button them up. I did this the last time I painted my 55 and it worked very
well. Saved me from fabricating something to hold the fenders as I sprayed
them. My back fenders I used washers and long bolts to space them away from
the bed sides. Then replaced the bolts one by one with SS button heads. Did
have to break out the old 1 and 2000 paper to finish the paint off, but the
way I paint I pretty much have to do that no matter what.

Dennis
55F100

> ----------
> From: TNickolson aol.com[SMTP:TNickolson aol.com]
> Reply To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 8:57 AM
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - RE: pre61-list- TO PAUL: Painting in Pieces
>
> Don't skimp on the quality of the primer. Two part epoxy I feel is the
> best,
> check with you paint supplier and get a matching primer. I primed and
> painted
>
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 18:50:10 -0400
From: "Bill Robinson"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 1957 1/2 TON PANEL TRUCK ROLLING CHASSIS

How much & where are you located?
- -----Original Message-----
From: RPFARQUAR cs.com
To: pre61-list ford trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 3:27 PM
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 1957 1/2 TON PANEL TRUCK ROLLING CHASSIS


>I HAVE A ROLLING CHASSIS WITH A REBUILT 6CYL, 3SPEED, CUSTOM WHEELS,ETC.
ALL
>IN GOOD CONDITION FOR SALE,VERY RESONABLE. CONTACT RON PRICE AT EMAIL
ADDRESS
>RPFARQUAR CS.COM
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>

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:36:16 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: New policy

ADMIN: New policy ---- Please read!

As many of our old-timers may remember, we started a
policy of filtering out all special character formatting
and HTML in emails posted to the list.

This policy was put in place over 2 years ago because
many people where using email software that could not
handle such items correctly (mostly Unix email software).
This made life easier for those users but there was and
continues to be a tremendous burden on the list admins
and many users who post for first time.

There are many reasons for these burdens:

1. Many first time posters have font and/or color
settings in their email software. Their first post
gets rejected by our list server and they receive
an email detailing how to change the settings in
their software.

2. For each of the instances of item 1, either Keith
Srb (admin of three of the lists) or I have to
****manually**** send the instruction email.

3. Some users are unable to correct their settings,
either because they are unfamiliar with their
email software or our standard mailing does not
software their particular software (there is no
way we can possibly cover all email software
titles).

This is not something that occurs occasionally, but
happens many times each day. FTE has grown well
beyond the size it was when the policy was started.
At that time, we had less than 1,000 subscribers.
We now have over 5,000 and the lists continue to
grow.

FTE has always been something that I care deeply
about and I've continued to offer more free services
to our users as funds have allowed. While our funding
has increased and we're no longer losing thousands
of $$$ per year on this hobby gone amuck, my available
time has remained constant.

As some of my friends that I've made through the
lists know, FTE has been cutting into my family life
for a LONG time. 90% of this time is administering
the lists.

The demographics of email users has changed considerably
since we first instated the policy. Fewer than 1% of
our visitors are using Unix software as opposed to
15% 2 years ago. Most new releases of Unix email
software now supports HTML and character formatting.

The policy is obsolete. Beginning sometime next week
we will be removing the filters.

Rest assured that users who abuse this by using loud
fonts, huge characters, etc, will be warned to tone
it down.

Additionally, since the current filters block out
any possibility of viruses getting posted to the
lists, when the filters are removed, new filters
will be put in place which will block out file
attachments such as:

JPGs, GIFs, DOCs, COM, DLL, EXE, etc...

This will prevent email viruses getting posted.

Regards,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 21:45:02 -0500
From: "Stephen W.Hansen"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - F-1 Transmission questions

I have replaced the transmission in my '50-F1 with a longer Mercury
overdrive transmission. In doing so, I had to manufacture a crossmember and
a new transmission mount. Now I am trying to set the transmission at the
proper "level" or height. The best thing I see as a reference is the clutch
release shaft. In my opinion, the clutch release shaft should be level from
the frame to the transmission. Does this seem correct? Does anyone there
have a stock setup that they could peek at and let me know?
How much movement should the clutch shaft have in order to release the
clutch? I have replaced the clutch, pressure plate and all components during
the rebuilding, but the pedal adjustment seems to be a near the end of it's
setting. While I am sure the clutch will work, (not ready to drive it yet)
normally all the part replacements restore it to the near new settings.. Any
comments?
Stephen Hansen
92 F250
50 F-1

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 20:41:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re:Cause of a Dead Distributor Cap?

Dan,

I don't think platinum plugs or resistor wires could
contribute much to your problem, if they were
installed correctly.
A 2V Cleveland has a 9:1 CR, a 4V Cleveland is 10:1 or
more. When these engines are run at low RPM and WOT,
then the cylinder sees maximum pressure. This is the
worst case for the spark to jump the plug gap. If you
calculate the cylinder pressure and know the gap is
.044, you can go to a table and find the Voltage
necessary to jump that gap under that condition. I am
sure that any good coil will produce sufficient
voltage to do that. However if you change the gap to
.035, then the voltage required is less under the same
conditions. If the gap is .050 then more voltage is
necessary. The coil will build voltage until the spark
dicharges the energy stored in the coil. This may be
35KV, or 40KV, or 50KV.
Now lets think about the cap, it also sees this
voltage. The spark will jump across the cap, if it can
do that sooner than the plug. For this reason the
terminals are spread apart and walls and grooves are
put into the cap. Once a spark jumps, it leaves a
track in the insulator which makes it easier for the
next spark to follow.
Condensation can form inside a cap, if you move from a
warm damp garage to a cold exterior. Condensation will
make it easier for the spark to jump.
Cleveland engines are known for a problem which makes
it easy for a spark to jump between cyls 7 and 8.
These wires must be kept separated.
It is possible that your cap was already tracked and
the new components just finished the job.
There is nothing wrong with what you have, it is the
same as I have, but I think that the terminals are too
close together on the small Mallory cap for real high
voltages.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

> Subject: FTE Pre61 - Cause of a Dead Distributor
> Cap?
>
> I have a Mallory Unilite in my 351C. Yesterday I
> installed a Mallory
> coil--I can't remember the model number but it's
> compatible with the
....

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