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Subject: pre61-list-digest V3 #310
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pre61-list-digest Tuesday, October 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 310



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - lincoln rear end
FTE Pre61 - Dash Guages
FTE Pre61 - Re:Cause of a Dead Distributor Cap?
FTE Pre61 - Things of interest
Re: FTE Pre61 - starting 30 year old engine
Re: FTE Pre61 - Dash Guages
FTE Pre61 - best way to paint?
FTE Pre61 - 51 radio

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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 08:19:59 -0400
From: "Sheldon Rier"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - lincoln rear end

Hi Sam

I've got a Lincoln disc rear end for my 56 - think it was from a mid 80's mk
7

isn't in yet but hub to hub & spring perches measure bang on

from memmory think the frame width is 32" on 48>52 & 34" on 53+ so you may
end up having to relocate the perches - the 76-77 Lincolns may measure
different

Good Luck
Sheldon

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 09:58:05 -0400
From: "sam fugate"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - licoln rear end

Has any one tried to install a 1976-77 Lincoln rear into their 51-52 F1?
Just curios if it would be a direct bolt on, or if mods would be in order.
Rear disk brakes would be nice!
Thanks,

SAM I AM

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Date: 25 Oct 1999 11:20:47 -0500
From: Randy K Selby
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Dash Guages

I need a definative answer about dash guage voltage. I purchased a new wiring
harness for my '50 F-1, and the schematic shows a voltage reducer to the guage
power feed. I called the parts supplier that I bought it through, and was told
that I don't need one, the original gauges and sending units will work fine at
12v. I am converting to 12v, neg. ground with turn signals. Help me please!
Also, I need the hole layout for the grill trim. Anybody have one apart?

R. Selby
selbyrk npoint.net
'50 F-1 ------painting today!!!!!!
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:23:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re:Cause of a Dead Distributor Cap?

Dan,

I have the same setup in my 400 w/Cleveland Heads, a
Mallory Unilite Dist. and Promaster Coil. I have not
experienced any problems, but tracking is caused by
High Voltage breakdown of an insulator. A spark will
jump across the easiest path. If the path across the
plug gap is excessive due to compression, connections,
plugs or wires, the spark may find a path across your
cap. Platinum plugs have a higher resistance and along
with resistance wire could contribute to the problem.
Contamination on your cap or rotor could also
contribute. One thing you may want to consider is to
use a Cap-adapt for the Mallory Unilite. This spreads
the terminals of the cap to reduce the possibility of
breakdown. Use wires made for a Duraspark Dist. At
least check the connections and resistance of your
wires.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V


>Subject: FTE Pre61 - Cause of a Dead Distributor Cap?
>I have a Mallory Unilite in my 351C. Yesterday I
>installed a Mallory
>coil--I can't remember the model number but it's
>compatible with the
>Unilite. Before that I'd been using an Accel Super
>Stock coil--itdidn't
>fail, I just replaced it basically for the hell of
>it. After Iinstalled
>the coil I ran the engine and everything was cool.
>Today I installednew
>spark plugs (Autolite Platinum, gapped .044) and
>wires (Summit 8mm). When
>I started it up I knew instantly something was
wrong-->it sounded weakand
>it would backfire on acceleration. I checked the
>order on thedistributor
>cap and double checked my connections--everything
>looked good. Ilooked
>inside the distributor cap and found the
problem-->center terminal ispretty
>well detonated--charred black and white and there's
>white trackingbetween
>all the other terminals. There's also white charry
>stuff on the middleof
>the rotor. So I found my problem, but what caused
>that to happen? I've
>never had a problem like this before. If I had to
>guess I'd say thatthe
>Unilite wasn't grounded well, which lead to some
>corrosion. Then thenew
>coil and larger wires were too much for the weakened
>distributor totake
>and I got a kablooey type condition in the
>distributor cap. Does this
>sound anywhere near reasonable, or should I keep
>looking? I shouldmention
>that the engine has always run great in the 3 years
>prior to this.~Dan


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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:08:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Things of interest

I drove my '53 to the Pizza shop yesterday and a
fellow stopped me in the parking lot to ask if I knew
anyone that was interested in the following:

a '54 F100 (cab only, missing a door)

a '55 Sedan Delivery

a '47 pickup?

I don't know anything about these items, but I thought
I would pass the info along. The location is Gilroy
Ca. Contact John at 408-842-9488.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

=====

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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 19:50:48 -0700
From: sainey impop.bellatlantic.net
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - starting 30 year old engine

I recently did the same thing for my 1939 flathead. I found it was easier to
take
the heads off and get right to the cylinders. It also let me take a rag and
clean them
out as well. When I was done, I had between 35 and 60 lbs compression. Not
very
good, but I figured good enough to start. I cranked it up with a little help
from a can of ether. It ran real ragged for a few minutes then cleaned right
up. I rechecked compression and had 80 to 100 lbs in all cylinders. Also,
before firing I rolled the engine about 5 or 6 times in the direction it would
run just to make sure I didn't have any stuck valves.

I also removed and tested the distributor to make sure it was firing and I tore
the carburator
apart just to check it and make sure it wasn't plugged.


Steve

39 Ford Flattie


Kreig McBride wrote:

> The engine in the 1950 Ford F-3 has been sitting for 30 years, under the
> protection of the hood.
> Today I removed the spark plugs and sprayed a little WD-40 into the
> cylinders. Later I followed this up with engine oil. Plan to let it sit for
> many days while I check all fluids, wires, etc. My plan is to get the engine
> loose, check the compression and then try and get it running, check vacuum
> and whatever else to see if the engine runs well enough to install in my
> good truck.
>
> My question to members of the list is:
> What else should I do before attempting to start the engine?
> Should I try?
>
> Thanks,
> Kreig in Bellingham, Wa
>
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 19:55:38 -0700
From: sainey impop.bellatlantic.net
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Dash Guages

I'm pretty sure you need a voltage reducer. If it was powered by a six volt system
and
you change it to 12 at best they will not be accurate and at worst it will burn
them out.
I know that the gas gauge will not take 12 volts. Steve Delanty has a good
schematic on
how to make a six volt voltage regulator I think it's on the website, or if you
don't want to
build one there are several companies that sell them just for that purpose.

Steve

39 Ford Flattie

Randy K Selby wrote:

> I need a definative answer about dash guage voltage. I purchased a new wiring
> harness for my '50 F-1, and the schematic shows a voltage reducer to the guage
> power feed. I called the parts supplier that I bought it through, and was told
> that I don't need one, the original gauges and sending units will work fine at
> 12v. I am converting to 12v, neg. ground with turn signals. Help me please!
> Also, I need the hole layout for the grill trim. Anybody have one apart?
>
> R. Selby
> selbyrk npoint.net
> '50 F-1 ------painting today!!!!!!
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 22:46:15 EDT
From: PWPTRUCK1 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - best way to paint?

Hi Gang.
I am planning on how I will paint my truck. I am doing a complete gound up
resto on my '52 F-3. The entire body and cab is completely taken apart. All
my sheet metal is primed and ready for paint. Can one of you tell me how I
should paint all this stuff before I assemble the body, or should I bolt it
all up and then paint?

Thanks,
Paul
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:31:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 51 radio

I just got a 51 Merc radio that is for sale. The only thing is it's
from a car, sorry about not being truck content but I thought some one
might like to put it in their truck anyways. It was working when
removed so if anyone is interested email me OFF LIST at wm_69 yahoo.com
Scott

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