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pre61-list-digest Wednesday, September 1 1999 Volume 03 : Number 249



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Highway speed
Re: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed
FTE Pre61 - Things for Sale
Re: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed
FTE Pre61 - Re: 59 F-100 4x4
FTE Pre61 - Re: Headlamps
FTE Pre61 - sound/heat insulation
Re: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Headlamps
Re: FTE Pre61 - sound/heat insulation
Re: FTE Pre61 - Head Bolts
Re: FTE Pre61 - sound/heat insulation

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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 02:38:41 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed

>
> I've got 3.55 gears in my Flathead and 45 to 50 seems the most comfortable
> speed. Engine bolt-ons (dual exhaust and carburetors) did help the top-end
> and slower divided highways (55 to 60) don't seem quite as bad, but it
> still isn't a vehicle for the fast lane. I've just put on radials instead
> of bias-ply tires, but haven't driven around that much yet. These are
> 215/70R16 and are only a little wider than the 6.00-16's that were stock.
> Steering effort isn't noticably different, but I was hoping that the
> radials would drive better at 65 to 70. I'm not sure how to describe how it
> feels now, but it does seem like it's something in the front suspension
> that just isn't set up for higher speed. Note that I've got the stock
> transverse spring and solid axle and a 1939 steering box. I don't have
> anything like a Panhard bar.


Even with my drivability mods (351-C4-3.55 gears, radial (235/75 15) tires I
don't like to take my truck out of the slow lane (provided I can even build up
the guts to take in on the freeway in the first place). It will definitely go
faster than I make it go, but above 50 it just sounds like the world is about
to end. Perhaps better insulation should be the next step.

~Dan

1950 F1 351C--Edelbrock Manifold #2750 please.
1992 Mustang --The Clutch From HELL!
1965 Mustang--Becoming less likely by the day.

Visit my new improved 48-52 F1 Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~dwentz
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 08:58:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jan McLaughlin
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Highway speed

Have to say this stopping quickly thing has gottn me more nervous than I'd
like. More than once. My 53 F-250 likes it at 60 all right, it's me who's
uncomfortable there, so I keep it at 50-55 on the freeway. Don't know
what my gear ratios are, but I believe the trannie to be stock. The 223
engine is from 55, however, and doesn't sound stressed in the least, even
at 65. Am using bias tires and have made no modifications by adding struts or
changed the springs, of which there are many. She prefers some weight in
the back for best road-hugging. Use 350 pounds of sand to keep her happy.

What I dislike most are driving over the worn ruts in certain places, be it
on a country road or highway.

Jan
"Louise"
53 F-250

At 08:53 PM 8/31/99 EDT, you wrote:
>I have done every thing possible to my old Flathead engine, but I did not
>change the suspension except for mono-leaf springs. I feel safe and
>comfortable in the mid 60's range. I am having a problem with the play in the
>steering. I rebuilt the original box but still have 1/8 turn play in the
>wheel and that causes a constant steering adjustment at slower speeds and
>especially when I must stop quick. Is this normal?
>
>By the way, I still have a great time driving around.
>
>Tom Nickolson
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>
>

jmac133 idt.net

"There is only one thing which interests me vitally now,
and that is the recording of all that which is omitted in books."

- - Henry Miller "Tropic of Cancer"


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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 09:15:00 -0400
From: 47Fred
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed

> > I've got 3.55 gears in my Flathead and 45 to 50 seems the most comfortable
> > speed. Engine bolt-ons (dual exhaust and carburetors) did help the top-end
> > and slower divided highways (55 to 60) don't seem quite as bad, but it
> > still isn't a vehicle for the fast lane.
>
> Even with my drivability mods (351-C4-3.55 gears, radial (235/75 15) tires I
> don't like to take my truck out of the slow lane (provided I can even build up
> the guts to take in on the freeway in the first place).

There is a reason they don't make'em like they used to, in the
50's we were still largely a rural country, a truck was for work, and
lots of it, and a car was for quiet Sunday drive. A high enter of
gravity, narrow tread width (wider IS better), stiff suspension, uneven
brakes, and stump pulling gears don't make for a fun turnpike cruiser.
There really isn't much middle ground to be found in restoring a truck,
more power, on the old suspension, just scares you faster. I believe in
the approach that if you want a hot rod, you junk the I beam, soften the
rear spring or go 4 link, drop the chassis 4 or 5 inches, throw in low
profile tires and anti-sway bars, add a bunch of juice to a big motor,
and roast unsuspecting rats and mice. If you want originality, you
rebuild the flat head, keep the granny low, no synchronizer 4 speed and
stay off the highway. One of these vehices is not a bit beter than the
other, but both offer the owner just what they want.

47Fred
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 08:53:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Things for Sale

I have a couple of items for sale that may be of
interest to this group.

I have a Magnum disc brake setup for a '53 thru '56
F100. It fits the stock spindles. It includes
calipers, used pads, mounting brackets, hub, rotors
and bearings and seals (you may want to replace the
seals). It is in good condition and has been used one
year. It worked fine with my power brake setup, but I
am going to a MustangII IFS. I will have the rotors
resurfaced and checked. It is a 5 X 4.5 bolt pattern.
I paid $600.00 for it and I am asking $300.00 plus
shipping.

The next item I don't own, but I wish I did. It is a
'51 F1. It was a frame off restoration. The sheet
metal work is first class. It has a 428 'FE' engine
and C6. Unfortunatly the work stopped there. It is
stock otherwise. I think it will go for a reasonable
price. Call Don Shaw at 'Power Rods' in Gilroy Ca.
408-847-7637.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 12:04:17 EDT
From: TNickolson aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed

To "47 Fred"

You are absolutely right about old trucks, especially if they are original. I
don't expect anything but 1952 Truck handling. My question is "Is it normal,
and in good condition, for a F1 to have 1/8 to 1/3 play in the steering
wheel?"


Tom Nickolson
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 10:07:05 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: 59 F-100 4x4

>
>
> Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 12:40:46 -0500
> From: Troy McClung
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - 59 F-100 4x4
>
> Does anyone know of a disc brake conversion for my 59 F-100 4x4?
> Troy

You could do the swap with Chevy calipers and use Ford hubs rotor and spindle. The only problem you will have is the strength of the knuckle and outer end of the axle stub. The knuckles were not designed to hold the added stress of disk brake parts. Don't bolt
the spindle and other parts back to the knuckle( do this even if you keep the drum brakes) use a stud that you can put in from the back side of the knuckle and has a head on it that will not pull through the knuckle.

If you have two piece knuckles that bolt together you might as well stop here.

As for the stub shaft the ring gear end will be a 10 spline or something like that the the hub end could be a 10 spline or a 30 spline. If you have internal locking hubs you most likely have the 30 ( come to think of it 30 might not be the exact spline count but
it should be fine splines just the same) With the fine splines you can reuse you curing locking hubs in the disk brake wheel hubs.

Here is what you are going to need. Ford wheel hub and rotor, Chevy spindles, calipers, caliper mounting brackets, and dust shields if desired off a chevy 1/2 4x4. If you want to go with all Ford parts you are going to need a Dana 44 from a 77-79 F-250 4x4. The
F-250 uses leaf spring mounts that will work with the 59 4x4 and 4x2's. Two draw backs with this is the F-250 axle is about 3-4 inches wider than the current axle and you will need to gather all the F-150 brake parts.

All that is just for the axle end, also needed is a new master cylinder, proportioning valve, and booster if you want to save you leg and back. Otherwise the master cylinder could just replace your stock one. New brake lines will need to be made to run from the
master cylinder to the front disks.

All in all there really isn't much in the way of fabrication that needs to be done. Mostly it is time and gathering all the parts.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 13:59:01 -0700
From: "Paul J. Donadio"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Headlamps

Hi,
>>
>>I'm having a problem with the headlamps of my '59 F-100 (quad headlamps).
>>The high beams work fine, but the low beams don't come on. I assumed the
>>problem resided in the dimmer switch...oops, changing the switch didn't
>>resolve the problem Now, my best guess is that both low beams just
>>happened to burn out at the same time (which seems quite the coincidence).
>>I'll try changing the lamps unless one of the list members thinks the
>>problem lies elsewhere.
>>
>>Along the same line, would replacing the original sealed beams with halogen
>>units present any problem?
>>
>>Thanks for the help,
>>
>>Paul




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 15:02:22 EDT
From: Filzdad aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - sound/heat insulation

Somebody just mentioned insulation in reference to the highway driving dialogue, so...

Speaking of insulation, I have a '49 F-1 with a 350 C***y in it. Sorry, came with the truck, will work on it, mea culpa. At medium speeds normal conversation comes to an end. At high speeds "signing" is a valuable talent to have. What si left of stock insulation is all that is in it. What is the best insulation to use, and best way to install. Engine compartment first, inside the cab, one-sided versus two-sided reflective coating, materials, adhesives. Any experience would be helpful.

Finally got my dream answered; 'Toulouse' and I are very happy now. Drive her to work and errands. My 4 year old thinks I drive a toy! He loves going berry picking in it. Paint comes this fall. Pictures inbound. Thanks for the help.

Matt
"Toulouse" '49 F-1
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 17:03:34 -0400
From: 47Fred
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Highway speed

TNickolson aol.com wrote:
>
> To "47 Fred"
>
> You are absolutely right about old trucks, especially if they are original. I
> don't expect anything but 1952 Truck handling. My question is "Is it normal,
> and in good condition, for a F1 to have 1/8 to 1/3 play in the steering
> wheel?"
>

Isn't it amazing how little things will go on and on, and big things
disappear in one post?
Some of them old trucks have 1/2 a turn of slop. I wondered why a '47 I
got for parts had a fullturn, then I saw the pitman arm connection. I
think 1/8 of a turn is pretty darn good, 1/3 may be pushing it and I
think you can do better, but if it doesn't wander all over heck and
beyond, why loose sleep? I've read posts off and on from people who
rebuild, adjust, shim, and generally go nuts, and still have loose
steering. To me, I'd go over all the under frame joints real good, and
make sure that everything is reasonable snug and greased, then check
that the king pins are good. At that point I'd have to ask myself real
hard, "Do I like the way it goes"? Next step depends on the answer.

PS. Anyone who'd hack up an original ought to have to adjust your
steering to "0" play.

47Fred
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 18:27:53 -0400
From: "Joe Michels"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Headlamps

I have been here on the headlight not lighting issue on a 52 F1. Went
through 2 sets of bulbs and replaced the dimmer switch before I discovered
that the voltage regulator was the culprit-- the damn thing "oscillated"---
no voltage, then some high voltage, ie, 7-9 volts-- as Soon as I changed
the regulator-- the problem solved itself. It is interesting to note that
this happened after I rewired the entire truck-- I replaced all of the
wiring and then this occurred. I thought that I had a wiring error,
however, after double checking my work, convinced my self that this was not
the problem-- however, did detect the regulator problem by watching the
ammeter-- pulse/oscillate when driving. I knew that was not correct, so
replacing it did solve the problem!! Hope that this helps!!

Joebob
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Paul J. Donadio
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 4:59 PM
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Headlamps


> Hi,
> >>
> >>I'm having a problem with the headlamps of my '59 F-100 (quad
headlamps).
> >>The high beams work fine, but the low beams don't come on. I assumed
the
> >>problem resided in the dimmer switch...oops, changing the switch didn't
> >>resolve the problem Now, my best guess is that both low beams just
> >>happened to burn out at the same time (which seems quite the
coincidence).
> >>I'll try changing the lamps unless one of the list members thinks the
> >>problem lies elsewhere.
> >>
> >>Along the same line, would replacing the original sealed beams with
halogen
> >>units present any problem?
> >>
> >>Thanks for the help,
> >>
> >>Paul
>
>
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 16:46:58 -0400
From: Fred g 454
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - sound/heat insulation

Matt,
You didn't say where your exhaust is dumped. If you want quiet, make sure is goes all the way out the back. That's first. In my '56 I used the foil-on-one-side jute-on-the other I picked up at Pigeon Forge, then carpet. Ran the same combo up the firewall (on the inside) to the rear of the cab. Back of the cab and the roof I just used the foil bubble insulation from home depot (couldn't find the good stuff locally) It's quiet enough to have a conversation and hear the radio.

Fred
Hotrod'56

Filzdad aol.com wrote:

> Somebody just mentioned insulation in reference to the highway driving dialogue, so...
>
> Speaking of insulation, I have a '49 F-1 with a 350 C***y in it. Sorry, came with the truck, will work on it, mea culpa. At medium speeds normal conversation comes to an end. At high speeds "signing" is a valuable talent to have. What si left of stock insulation is all that is in it. What is the best insulation to use, and best way to install. Engine compartment first, inside the cab, one-sided versus two-sided reflective coating, materials, adhesives. Any experience would be helpful.
>
> Finally got my dream answered; 'Toulouse' and I are very happy now. Drive her to work and errands. My 4 year old thinks I drive a toy! He loves going berry picking in it. Paint comes this fall. Pictures inbound. Thanks for the help.
>
> Matt
> "Toulouse" '49 F-1
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 19:16:54 -0400
From: "Bill Robinson"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Head Bolts

I'm ready to bolt the heads back on my 8RT eng. 239ci flathead. 24 bolts in
2 different lenghts. Can anyone tell me where the long bolts go? Or where
the short ones go, if that is easier? Still looking for a set of aluminum
heads for this engine. Anyone with used heads for sale?
Thanks,
BillyRob
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Merrill
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, August 30, 1999 10:03 PM
Subject: FTE Pre61 - fromt drums


>Howdy,
>We have a '56 F500 rackbody with everything up and running but the front
>drums are junk. One more turning and nothing will be left. Does anyone
>have a source for 2.25' X 13" drums. I think '56 was the only year for
this
>size drum. All the other brake parts are still available.
>Many Thanks,
>John Merrill
>
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 16:26:17 -0700
From: "Eldon Joachims"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - sound/heat insulation

If you want the best and cheapest heat and sound deadening put 7 or 9 lb
tar paper down first then silver sided cloth sound insulation (for
vehicles). I did this to my 55 f100 and it is dead quite. I put it in the
doors,headliner,and floor.
Use 7 or 9 lb, 4lb doesn't seem to work as well.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 12:02 PM
Subject: FTE Pre61 - sound/heat insulation


> Somebody just mentioned insulation in reference to the highway driving
dialogue, so...
>
> Speaking of insulation, I have a '49 F-1 with a 350 C***y in it. Sorry,
came with the truck, will work on it, mea culpa. At medium speeds normal
conversation comes to an end. At high speeds "signing" is a valuable talent
to have. What si left of stock insulation is all that is in it. What is
the best insulation to use, and best way to install. Engine compartment
first, inside the cab, one-sided versus two-sided reflective coating,
materials, adhesives. Any experience would be helpful.
>
> Finally got my dream answered; 'Toulouse' and I are very happy now. Drive....


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