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Subject: pre61-list-digest V3 #244
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pre61-list-digest Saturday, August 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 244



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - '59 Taillights
Re: FTE Pre61 - winter storage
FTE Pre61 - Door Locks & Wiring Harnesses
Re: FTE Pre61 - EZ wire harness
RE: FTE Pre61 - brake systems
RE: FTE Pre61 - brake systems
Re: FTE Pre61 - More questions
FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: Official FTE press release
RE: FTE Pre61 - winter storage
FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: 2001 Supercrew specifications
FTE Pre61 - Hood Springs
FTE Pre61 - To Shane re: Rear Axle Drop
Re: FTE Pre61 - More questions for the group
FTE Pre61 - MOre questions
FTE Pre61 - REF EZ Wire
FTE Pre61 - F-6 brakes
FTE Pre61 - Re:winter storage

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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 06:05:09 -0700
From: "Paul J. Donadio"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - '59 Taillights

Hi out there,

I am the third owner of a '59 F-100 Custom Cab stepside that, but for a few
relatively minor items, is nearly stock.

One of the items I am not sure about is the taillights. The ones currently
on the truck are round. I am wondering if stepside models had the
shield-type taillamps rather than round ones.

Thanks in the advance for the replies.

Paul

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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 07:51:27 -0400
From: 47Fred
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - winter storage

MilFam3 aol.com wrote:
>
> does anyone out there just drive there classics on sunny days only and keep
> them
> inside stored in the winter?i was wondering about storing over the winter but
> being
> sure it'll be ready in spring. i heard once where someone would fire it up
> once in a
> while and let it run for awhile ( idling) but engine became clogged with
> sludge.
> anyone out there who could advise me on storing for a few months safetly?any
> advise would be appreciated!! thanks, dan milfam3 aol.com


I suppose storage plans are like belly buttons, everbody has one,
here's mine.

Change the engine oil, make sure the engine is warm from running
BEFORE draining the old oil. Fill the fuel tank as full as possible and
add a good dose of gas stabilizer, the stuff they sell for lawn mower
engines, run the engine after adding the stabilizer, to make sure it
gets into the fuel lines and carburetor. Put the vehicle away and cover
up as you prefer, some people like to jack it up and put blocks under
the frame, and this is probably a good idea if you run non radial tires.
Disconnect and remove the battery, a small trickle charger can be a good
idea, but an occasional (monthly) boost with a charger works just as
well. On my '%7 ford, I like to put a wood block to take some pressure
off the clutch, as I have had trouble with the disc sticking to the
flywheel after long storage, I don't shove it to the floor, cut enough o
compress the pressure plate springs a little.

47 Fred
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 08:43:11 EDT
From: PBRUHN aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Door Locks & Wiring Harnesses

Had excellent results with an original type wiring harness from ClassTech in
Bend, OR. Good wiring diagrams with it, etc., etc. - really had no problems
at all and it works like a charm. (1952 F-1)

On the door lock being on passenger side, a VERY OLD locksmith here in Little
Rock told me Ford put the door lock on that side since good manners would
require that you unlock the door for your partner/passenger first! Don't
know how true this is, but it makes some sense!

Bruno
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 09:36:16 -0400
From: Fred g 454
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - EZ wire harness

Paul,

Mine works? I used the GM column, and the wires as marked and it works fine
in the accessory position.

Fred

Paul wrote:

> Chalk up another 2 votes for the EZ harness; price is right, and I have
> installed 2 of them since April...the only odd thing about them is that
> the radio key-on wire doesn't work in accessory position, so you might
> want to substitute another for this one if, like me, you sometimes like
> to turn on the radio while parked and waiting on the wife to finish up
> shopping.
>
> Paul G.
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 07:17:11 -0500
From: Mike Morton
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - brake systems

I went with manual brakes instead odf power. I got my bracket from
Engineered Components. I used a 67-76 Corvette non power 4 wheel disc brake
master cylinder. It has a 1" bore. They show a 1" bore disc/drum master
cylinder from a 67-72 Mustang also. The catalog I have is a couple years old
and they were $45 for the Mustang and $50 for the Corvette. I found the
Corvette locally for about $35. This was new, not rebuilt. ECI sells a
bracket to use the original brake pedal and has the bracket, pushrod, rod
end, hardware and new boot. ECI's phone number is (860) 872-7046.
Mike
55 F100/460

> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Stokes [SMTP:dstokes linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us]
> Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 7:24 PM
> To: fordtrucks
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - brake systems
>
> I have a 56 and I would like to get the master cylinder and booster unit
> off the firewall and under the cab. Other than the high priced units the
> parts houses, is there one that will bolt on with little or no
> modifications. Have heard a Corvette will work, is this true and are
> their others??
>
> Thanks in advance
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 07:17:11 -0500
From: Mike Morton
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - brake systems

I went with manual brakes instead odf power. I got my bracket from
Engineered Components. I used a 67-76 Corvette non power 4 wheel disc brake
master cylinder. It has a 1" bore. They show a 1" bore disc/drum master
cylinder from a 67-72 Mustang also. The catalog I have is a couple years old
and they were $45 for the Mustang and $50 for the Corvette. I found the
Corvette locally for about $35. This was new, not rebuilt. ECI sells a
bracket to use the original brake pedal and has the bracket, pushrod, rod
end, hardware and new boot. ECI's phone number is (860) 872-7046.
Mike
55 F100/460

> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Stokes [SMTP:dstokes linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us]
> Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 7:24 PM
> To: fordtrucks
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - brake systems
>
> I have a 56 and I would like to get the master cylinder and booster unit
> off the firewall and under the cab. Other than the high priced units the
> parts houses, is there one that will bolt on with little or no
> modifications. Have heard a Corvette will work, is this true and are
> their others??
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 09:53:21 -0400
From: Fred g 454
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - More questions

Glenn in TN,

I did a little (actually a lot) of both on my '56. I took all the pieces I
could remove and hauled them to a media blaster, who blasted, then primed them
with the new etching epoxy primer. You then do the body work on top of that.
And, then use more of the waterproof epoxy primer. On the cab I figured that
the paint was in good condition and in some cases had been there for over 40
years its probably OK. I wet sanded it did the work that it needed and then top
coated it with the same primer. It seals whatever is under it so you don't get
the blistering associated with lacquer over enamel and vice versa. Not knowing
what it was I thought this was the best way to go. Mine is still in primer so I
don't have paint advice yet.

On the body work. Keep it thin. Work the metal as much as you can and then use
the filler. Nothing over 1/4 inch will hold.

Hope this helps.

Fred
Hotrod'56

RJC988 aol.com wrote:

> FTEers,
>
> Just tell me if this is getting too much!
>
> Has anybody used a product called Martex? It is supposed to be better than
> standard "bondo". I have many "imperfections" to work out. I have heard that
> no fillers will last over 5 or 6 years; and again, if it is done right, it
> will last forever. What is the "scoop" on this one?
>
> I have always heard that it is best to go down to bare metal before priming
> and painting, but is there a good way to paint over old paint and make it
> last and look presentable?
>
> Glenn in TN
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 10:52:22 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: Official FTE press release

FTE has expressed its opinion on the recent legal action of
Ford Motor Company against BlueOvalNews.com on its web site.
The release can be found at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/response.html

We've also sent this release to major news agencies.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 08:26:04 -0700
From: "O'Connell, Dennis M"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - winter storage

I don't know how much you want to spend, but I know several people do what
they call bagging it. There are suppliers who have kits that allow you to
put the car in a plastic bag, with a fan that controls humidity and keeps
the bag inflated. I don't know what they cost but they are supposed to be
very good. If you do use a cover outside, be careful of the dampness under
the cover. My daughter bought a 69 SS ch*vy that had been stored under a
car port with a car cover. The cover got wet from either condensation or
rain and caused some rust to develop on a otherwise perfect car. I tried a
quality weather resistant cover and still had wetness from the cover sitting
on the paint, just like leaving a wet rag on the car for days.

Dennis
55 F100

> ----------
> From: MilFam3 aol.com[SMTP:MilFam3 aol.com]
> Reply To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 5:56 PM
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - winter storage
>
> does anyone out there just drive there classics on sunny days only and
> keep
> them
> inside stored in the winter?i was wondering about storing over the winter
> but
> being
> sure it'll be ready in spring. i heard once where someone would fire it up
>
> once in a
> while and let it run for awhile ( idling) but engine became clogged with
> sludge.
> anyone out there who could advise me on storing for a few months
> safetly?any
> advise would be appreciated!! thanks, dan milfam3 aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 11:59:41 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: 2001 Supercrew specifications

Preliminary specifications for the 2001 F150 Supercrew have
been added to the news section of the web site.

Ken Payne
Admin
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 15:48:42 EDT
From: VegmanOCF aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Hood Springs

The hood springs on my '52 F1 are weak and I'd like to replace them.
Unfortunately, I can't find them (new) anywhere. I've thought about
shortening the originals by cutting a coil or two off, but don't know how to
bend the top coil into a new spring eye. Anybody got an idea how to do it?
Thanks Phillip
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 16:02:41 EDT
From: VegmanOCF aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - To Shane re: Rear Axle Drop

I just lowered the rear of my '52 F1 by installing a 2" square tube (about 6"
in length), directly above the spring hangers and moving the spring hangers
up. I bolted the 2" tube to the frame, cut the 4-rivits that hold the spring
hanger to the frame off, and raised the hanger up 2.25",. I can send you a
photo if you'd like. E-mail me at vegmanocf aol.com. Phillip
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 18:51:20 -0400
From: Steve
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - More questions for the group

RJC988 aol.com wrote:

> 3.) There appears to be some powder coating on the brake master cylinder and
> booster that is peeling off (Lincoln). What might take it the rest of the way
> off so I can repaint these? If the powder coating came off because of leaking
> brake fluid, what chance does paint have?

Don't know what might take off the powder coating (sandblasting most likely
would)
but I do know that paint doesn't stand a chance against brake fluid.

>
>
>
> I really wanted to have this thing going before Labor Day. Oh well, there's
> always Pigeon Forge next year!
>
> Glenn in TN
> a 57 F-100 with an identity crisis!
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 17:13:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Stokes
Subject: FTE Pre61 - MOre questions

I found a great bulletin board for auto paint questions and answers

Autobodystore.com

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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 20:58:44 -0700
From: "Bob"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - REF EZ Wire

Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Wiring Harness
>
>Randy,
>
>It's either original or it's not. If you plan (need) to modify it what
>difference does it make. Bring your electrical system into the 90's. A new
>harness comes with a fuse block, and all the modifications you plan on
making.
>I used the EZ wire harness. You can remove all the circuits you don't plan
on
>using. All the wires are clearly labeled every six or eight inches. the
whole
>thing costs around $195. And, it's EZ.
>
>Fred
>
>Wiring harness
>EZ Wiring that's the name of the company... you buy direct at 904-437-1077

Just to let you know, I called EZ Wire today, come to find out they are only
about 45 minutes from me. I talked to Robert on the phone who was quite
pleasant and very knowlegable and helpful. He even invited me up to tour
their operation. I intend to take him up on his offer real soon, as I have
a '52 F1 I will be completly rewiring. Let y'all know how it comes out

Bob
saintnsinner mpinet.net

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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 21:49:37 -0400
From: "Sheldon Rier"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - F-6 brakes

Hi All

have been having brake problems on a 51 F-6 & was wondering if anyone has
been down that road & would have any advice

the master cylinder is a very small single reservoir job that leaves you
with zero brakes if you have any problems - have had master cylinder
problems once each on 2 different trucks & the one didn't have the emerg
brake hooked up yet so a real interesting drive with a 30' long 20,000lb GVW
truck with no brakes

are there any dual reservoir master cylinders that might be adaptable (with
modifications, brackets, etc) to fit in the stock under the floor location??
other ideas??

there is an 8" diameter cannister that sits on the frame near the master
cylinder - I assume it is some sort of booster & says "Bendix Aviation" on
the top - has vacuum line going to manifold, a garden hose looking line that
appears to be some sort of vent & brake lines that run into it from the
master cylinder & back to the manifold on the back of the master cylinder
that sends the fluid to front & rear wheels - my M-6 looks identical so
assuming this is a stock setup

how does this cannister work? are they serviceable?? we think it is
contributing to a mushy pedal as the master cylinder makes good pressure and
there are no leaks - is there a way to bleed it - if we go to modern split
master cylinder do we require a separate booster for each brake circuit

any input appreciated

Thanks!!!
Sheldon Rier


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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 03:07:21 EDT
From: MilFam3....

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