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Subject: pre61-list-digest V3 #223
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pre61-list-digest Saturday, August 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 223



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Oiling problems and heaters
FTE Pre61 - OIL problem
Re: FTE Pre61 - POR-15...any good?
RE: FTE Pre61 - POR-15...any good?
Re: FTE Pre61 - OIL problem
FTE Pre61 - More Por comments
Re: FTE Pre61 - 55 F100 heater questions
FTE Pre61 - full flow oil kit
Re: FTE Pre61 - full flow oil kit
Re: FTE Pre61 - 55 F100 heater questions

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Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 06:56:12 -0400
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Oiling problems and heaters

Oiling Problems:
While I had my 239 Y-block down to rebuild it, I got out the ol' Dremel
and cleaned up the oil passages that run across the bottom of the heads.
Since that passage s cast in, it is pretty rough, so I figured smoothing
it out couldn't hurt oil delivery. I also had to DRILL the crud out of
the oil passages in the block (Slow speed, please!!) that supply the
rocker since both were nearly plugged. You should have seen the inside
of the rocker shafts! So far so good on my "fix", but the engine is
freshly rebuilt! I'll keep I'll in touch....
Shane, your heater motor should have 2 wires, one to the ground, the
other to the switch. As for the apparent reverse airflow, hmmmm....
Since I didn't have any trouble with the motor running backwards when I
did my 12 volt conversion, I don't think reversing the wires will fix
the problem, or I'd suggest it.
- --
Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
inaccessible part of the vehicle."

grover ford-trucks.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 07:31:39 -0500
From: Winford_Rister oxy.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - OIL problem

Thanks, 47Fred, for that great explanation of why external oilers were once,
but no longer needed.

Just a comment on the mechanic-bashing I have been reading:

I bought a NEW 92 Mustang GT (5.0 of course), and the dip stick showed
half-quart overfill at a normal 5
quart-with-filter change. I compensaged by grinding a new mark on the
dipstick. No problem for 109k miles.
Now that engine, untouched, is in my 54 f100. (The mustang was
broad-sided).

So on the referenced engine which had only 3 1/2 quarts drained from it;
when you consider the quart in the filter, it was only
1/2 quart off-- no more than my NEW mustang from the factory. In fact, the
same way. If I had only put in enough oil to get it
to show full, it would have been 1/2 quart low.

Now I have a 96 Mustang GT. Although the stick shows full with the
specified 6 quarts, If I park on an hill, nose down, my
"low oil level" light stays on, even after driving.

My point is that dipsticks are 'dipsticks'. You have to check things out
for yourself if you want them correct, and maybe that
mechanic isn't all that bad after all.

Winfordr aol.com
ps. reading this digest is a daily treat for me. My 54 f100 project is
stuck because of 'no time' , but will hopefully get going
again soon.

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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 09:56:49 -0400
From: "Bill Hale"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - POR-15...any good?

> coating. However, from viewing their web site I take
> it that it is a primer which has to be wet-sanded and
> painted.
>
Based upon their catalog, you only need to topcoat it if it will be exposed
to UV light.
And it can be topcoated without wet sanding if you do it before it is
totally dry. They explain as "dry to the touch with slight finger drag".
They have a "starter kit" to try the stuff out (I paid 13.95 + 6 S&H) for it
and received it yesterday. It contains small bottles(jars) of the "marine
clean" degreaser, "metal ready" surface prep, and POR-15 semi gloss, gloves,
brushes, and instructions. A good way to test their product without laying
down to much. They also claim that it likes rusted surfaces better than
shiny, freshly blasted ones. But if you sandblast the surface you should
etch it first.
We'll see how it goes
Bill


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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 09:26:43 -0500
From: Mike Morton
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - POR-15...any good?

Here are two places to look for info:
www.brysondist.com/FAQs.html and www.porstore.com/por15info.htm.
A couple guys at work have used and love it. They say there's nothing
better. Prep the part with zinc phosphate first and then the POR15. It
doesn't have to be painted over if you don't want to. There are different
colors for different applications. There is even one for concrete floors.
The info says you can use lacquer thinner to clean it off your hand as long
as it is still wet. Once it's dry you have to let it wear off. Both the guys
at work testify to that.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Hale [SMTP:wlhale csrlink.net]
> Sent: Friday, August 06, 1999 8:57 AM
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - POR-15...any good?
>
> > coating. However, from viewing their web site I take
> > it that it is a primer which has to be wet-sanded and
> > painted.
> >
> Based upon their catalog, you only need to topcoat it if it will be
> exposed
> to UV light.
> And it can be topcoated without wet sanding if you do it before it is
> totally dry. They explain as "dry to the touch with slight finger drag".
> They have a "starter kit" to try the stuff out (I paid 13.95 + 6 S&H) for
> it
> and received it yesterday. It contains small bottles(jars) of the "marine
> clean" degreaser, "metal ready" surface prep, and POR-15 semi gloss,
> gloves,
> brushes, and instructions. A good way to test their product without laying
> down to much. They also claim that it likes rusted surfaces better than
> shiny, freshly blasted ones. But if you sandblast the surface you should
> etch it first.
> We'll see how it goes
> Bill
>
>
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Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 12:34:20 -0400
From: 47Fred
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - OIL problem

Winford_Rister oxy.com wrote:
>
> Just a comment on the mechanic-bashing I have been reading:
>
But the world still wants to know, how do you crack a block testing
a seal?
47Fred
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Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 10:44:29 -0700
From: Marilyn Boese
Subject: FTE Pre61 - More Por comments

I've used Por-15 and their primer/etching products and think they are
doing an excellent job. You do have to create a complete seal and if
the item will be exposed to UV it must be top coated. I've also used
Rust-oleum products and two-part epoxies in attempts to keep rust at bay
here in Cosmoline, California. Por is expensive but I think it's
holding up better. I'm also buy Car Jackets with dessicant packs for
two of our vehicles. Better safe than sorry.
Marilyn reds-headers.com

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Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 20:33:42 -0700
From: "Eldon Joachims"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 55 F100 heater questions

your blower motor is DC thats why it only has two wires. and if you want it
to blow instead of sucking. Reverse the wires...

- ----------
> From: shane san miguel
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - 55 F100 heater questions
> Date: Thursday, August 05, 1999 8:17 PM
>
> While chasing down the reason for almost no air volume
> flow out of my heater, I noticed the blower motor has
> only two wires. My manual (for a 1956) shows the
> blower motor to have 3 wires. I also noticed that my
> blower motor spins clockwise. Isn't it supposed to
> rotate counter-clockwise? Anybody know for sure?
>
> Shane
> 55 F100 5.0
> 15.51 87
> 289 Pinto waiting patiently
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> >
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 19:11:14 -0400
From: "sam fugate"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - full flow oil kit

Thanks to all who responded to my oil system dilemma, As I value all of your
opinions, I have decided to keep the original partial flow system.
No real reason other than I Have a vivid picture in my mind of my fathers 41
FORD Flattie Hot -Rod, and how cool it looked. And really How many miles am
I going to put on this baby in a years time any way.

Again Thanks,
Sam Fugate

SAM I AM

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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 19:59:25 EDT
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - full flow oil kit

Somebody makes a kit with a full flow that screws up inside the original
filter housing. 'Course you have the real hoses, and the bottom of the
canister is cut off, but it looks close to stock.
Although others mentioned plenty of flatheads with 100,000 miles on them,
that's probably with several backyard rebuilds. There's no substitute for
good oil filtration. I'm surprised its even a subject for discussion.
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Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 23:40:43
From: "Craig L. Edmundson"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 55 F100 heater questions

Hello,

My 1954-55 shop manual says there were two different types of heaters
installed in trucks during those years: a "fresh air heater" (which has a
blower motor with two wires); and a "recirculating heater" (which has a
blower motor with three wires.) Mine is the fresh air type and uses the
two-wire motor.

Hope this helps.

Craig
55 F100


At 08:17 PM 8/5/99 -0700, shane san miguel wrote:
>While chasing down the reason for almost no air volume
>flow out of my heater, I noticed the blower motor has
>only two wires. My manual (for a 1956) shows the
>blower motor to have 3 wires. I also noticed that my
>blower motor spins clockwise. Isn't it supposed to
>rotate counter-clockwise? Anybody know for sure?....


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