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pre61-list-digest Thursday, August 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 221



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Questions about my 1958 F-100
FTE Pre61 - Re: Reply to Sam I Am (oil filters)
FTE Pre61 - full flow oil filtering
FTE Pre61 - Crusin' better
Re: FTE Pre61 - Questions about my 1958 F-100
FTE Pre61 - Questions about the 1958 F-1
FTE Pre61 - Sam I am's filter delimma
FTE Pre61 - Looking for Edelbrock Dealer Online
FTE Pre61 - Re: Keep the look Nostalgic
FTE Pre61 - Re: RJC988 aol.com for wiring
FTE Pre61 - oiler kit

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 07:03:04 -0700
From: Wayne Kinney
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Questions about my 1958 F-100

I just traded for this over the weekend. The VIN is F10J8R30840. According
to the Old Ford Truck Club, the F10 means F-100, the J means a 223 engine,
the 8 means 1958, the R means it was built in San Jose, Calif., and the
rest is the production number.
My engine, however, is an eight, and looks like the pictures of the
Y-block engines in my 1954-63 Chilton's manual. That would mean a 272 or
292, wouldn't it? According to Chilton's, they didn't put 272s in cars
after 1957, but used the 292 from 1955 to 1963. Was it different for pickups?
I recently exchanged e-mails with a fellow in Oklahoma who owns a 58
F-100. His is a 223, and he also has a J in his VIN.
Am I reading the VIN wrong, or did the engine get switched. Is there a way
to tell what I have?


One more thing: The color code is N. I know that in the early 1950s, that
meant red. The interior of the pickup is red, but there's a light green
underneath, and there's light green on the cowl where it's been sanded.
I haven't been able to find color codes for 1958. Anyone have them?
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 07:25:21 -0700
From: GUYETTE Phillip
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Reply to Sam I Am (oil filters)

Good question about updating your oil filter Sam. While I agree the new
modern full-flow oil filtration systems are superior, consider this... Henry
built hundreds of thousands of flatheads without ANY filter and a bunch with
the old partial flow filters. I couldn't count the number of Flatheads I've
seen with 100,000+ miles on them, still running the original bearings (no
doubt well worn by then). Regarding the sludge you see in the old engines,
modern engine oils are engineered to hold solids in suspension. When you
drain the oil, the solids will drain out too. Another factor to consider
about the sludge you find in old engines is, how frequently do you suppose
the oil was changed in those old engines? My opinion, if it ain't broke,
don't fix it. Incidentally, my driver is a '52 F1 with an 8BA, Merc Crank,
Isky MAX 1, 4-BBL carb, stock partial-flow oil filter. Phillip
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 08:32:03 -0700
From: Marilyn Boese
Subject: FTE Pre61 - full flow oil filtering

Sam,
Red has designed and used a full flow oil filtering system that he
highly recommends on any flathead. There's no substitute for clean
oil. The comments we get from folks looking under the hood are all
positive. Red sells the plans (and parts too) and also provides
telephone support. We probably understand better than a lot of people
the uptight feeling you get when faced with drilling holes in a
perfectly good flathead block. Full flow is the only way to go.
Marilyn reds-headers.com

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 13:06:24 -0400
From: Fred g 454
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Crusin' better

Thanks to those who replied to my question of
stalling at stops, and power brakes that didn't feel
all that powerful.

A note to those who may be doing similar things to
their trucks. I used a hanging pedal and brake
booster found on a 98 Cavalier, and the master
cylinder and proportioning valve off an S-10 pickup.
The S-10's have front disc and rear drum like my
truck. Total cost $80. My problem had to do with a
vacuum leak between the booster and the master
cylinder. Since I removed the booster assembly off a
car that had never been on the road. It was scrapped
by GM for some unknown reason before final assembly.
Anyway, I didn't know their was evidently a gasket
between the cylinder and the booster. When I was
trailing down the vacuum readings and potential
leaks I found the culprit had to be the booster, I
tried some sealer between the two and the problem
disappeared. It now idles better (slower, without
stalling) and stops easier. Now, I'll go see if I
can buy that gasket?

Thanks
Fred
hotrod'56

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 13:30:16 -0400
From: "Bill Hale"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Questions about my 1958 F-100

> Y-block engines in my 1954-63 Chilton's manual. That would mean a 272 or
> 292, wouldn't it? According to Chilton's, they didn't put 272s in cars
> after 1957, but used the 292 from 1955 to 1963. Was it different for
pickups?

According to my source(Red Book) the engine options for your year truck are
J - 223ci I-6 1bbl 139HP
K- 272ci V-8 2bbl 171HP
Not sure about ID'ing the Block - I have a 50 f-1 and the number is on the
"flat" head.

>
> One more thing: The color code is N.
Color code of N for 1950 meant Light Green
The others are:
A, Raven Black
B, Dark Blue
E, Colonial White
H, Medium Gray Poly
L, Light Blue
N, Light Green
R, Red
S, Special Paint
U, Dark Green
X, Goldenrod yellow

Anything else you need, let me know,
Bill
wlhale csrlink.net

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 13:38:41 -0400
From: "Bill Hale"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Questions about the 1958 F-1

One more thing about the motor,
After reading the Red Book comments concerning 1958 truck I found the
following:
By Jan 1958 the 272 was replaced by the 292 with 186 HP.
Also, the 223 6cyl was standard, the V-8 was considered a major option.
Hope this helps,
Bill
wlhale csrlink.net

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 19:10:47 EDT
From: PWPTRUCK1 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Sam I am's filter delimma

Hi Sam,
I would go with the full flow filter conversion kit. I have a stock Flatty
and that is what I plan to run in mine. Just remember, those guys at the car
shows that may grumble at you about running a full flow are not going to pay
for your next rebuild because of dirty oil getting by a partial flow filter.
Sounds like you are building up a real 50's hot-rodder, wich is all the more
reason to run a full flow. You can still leave the old filter housing on top
of the motor for looks and mount the new unit down low on the firewall to
help keep it out of sight.
Just my opinion,
Paul
'52 F-3
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 16:15:12 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Looking for Edelbrock Dealer Online

Does anybody know of an Edlebrock dealer I can order from online or over
the phone? I'm trying to get a Performer manifold for my 351C-2V--Summit
and JEGS are back ordered until mid September and I'm just not that
patient. Thanks.

~Dan

1950 F1 351C--The seat screams 'cover me' and your butt screams 'ouch!'
1992 Mustang --Nothing noteworthy to report.
1965 Mustang--Coming Soon???

Visit my new improved 48-52 F1 Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~dwentz
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 20:45:58 EDT
From: TNickolson aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Keep the look Nostalgic

I have a 52 F1, that I used the theme "If it was available in the early 50's
I did it". You won't believe the positive comments I receive about the look
of the "original flat head engine" from show judges and people that have seen
my truck. The oil filter sitting on top of the engine, mines chrome plated,
looks great. The comments about the old flat head running without oil changes
is very true. Just change the oil often and keep the look. I suggest two
two's and a Isky 3/4 grind, much easier to tune and keep running strong. I
did use a Mallory distributor, but it looks original.

Good luck


Tom Nickolson &
"The General"
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 22:45:50 EDT
From: Gunpro100 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: RJC988 aol.com for wiring

Glenn, just to let you know I have rewired my 54 F-100 for about $250. All
of the gauges work, tail lights, brakes etc. I put in a turn signal wiring
harness as well. I admit the 57 probably has a little more to it. I have a
single barrel Holley carb but I don't think going from EFI to a carb will be
bad. I am not familiar with a EFI so I don't really know the big differences.
Just be careful in knowing what the wiring harness comes with and has a good
diagram. I enjoyed putting mine in and enjoyed even more that it is still
all original. A lsmall amount of body work and I am done.

Kevin

P.S. If you would like to travel to Oklahoma I'll re-wire it for $500 Ha Ha.
I really think you can do it cheaper than $2500.
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Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 01:13:56 EDT
From: Ennui880 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - oiler kit

Could someone tell me about oiler kits? I'm probably going to put one in;
(my 56 Ford f250 was the one which was running on three quarts of oil all
week)
What's involved in putting one in? Need some oil in the top end to quiet
things down.

Steve....


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