From: owner-pre61-list-digest (pre61-list-digest)
To: pre61-list-digest
Subject: pre61-list-digest V3 #199
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pre61-list-digest Thursday, July 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 199

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE Pre61 - Freeing Rusted Bolts/Nuts
RE: FTE Pre61 - 1950 F-1 restoration attempt - fender bolt removal
FTE Pre61 - Re: Attention Scott Sheldrake
FTE Pre61 - Bed Wood Dimensions



Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 08:10:12 -0500
From: "Rich Garber"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - Freeing Rusted Bolts/Nuts

O.K., it seems everyone has a different method of taking things apart. So
here's my approach:

1) Try to just loosen. Obviously the preferred method.
2) Tighten until they snap. 1/2" fender bolts snap very easy.
3) I have used a dremel, but I have switched to a die grinder with a cutoff
wheel. This is one of my favorite tools, Everyone should own one.
I have learned however that not all cut off disks are created the same,
3M makes good ones for bolts, Chicago Phumatic disks are thicker and work
well for steel (they are thicker and have fiber strands in them)and the
rest of them I.M.H.O. are junk.
4) I rarely use heat or penetrating oils, unless I have to save the bolt.
Heat changes the metal, warps things and oil just makes a mess.

I learned early on the bolts on most of these old trucks are not worth
saving, I'll save one of each and mark where it was so I can match it to
a replacement. Mid-Fifty's sells complete bolt kits for 53 to 56.

54 F100

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pre61-list
> [mailto:owner-pre61-list]On Behalf Of WinfordR
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 1999 10:07 PM
> To: pre61-list
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - Freeing Rusted Bolts/Nuts
> I have had good success with a Dremel type moto-tool with the
> fiber-reinforced cut-off wheels. Sometimes I cut the bolt,
> sometimes I split
> the nut on two sides etc.
> Also a nutcracker is a good tool where there is room to use it.
> I have also resorted to the
> heat-with-a-torch-and-soak-with-Liquid Wrench,
> over and over method also. This works better if left to soak
> overnight. I
> have even drilled a small hole in the nut in order to get
> penetrating oil
> next to the bolt.
> Winford
> Winfordr

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 11:34:18 -0400
From: "Miguel....."
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - 1950 F-1 restoration attempt - fender bolt removal

It is true that most of the time these screws are so damaged, that it is not
worth trying to remove them without breaking them.
What I do to break the screws is I drill the head, about 1/2" deep, then
insert the screw extractor, and then try to unscrew the bolt by turning the
nut, almost 80% of the time, you feel like the nut is turning, but it is
actually twisting the bolt breaking it. I have found this the fastest way to
remove bolts. You only have to use good drill bits to make everything


>Then what? I assume you drill and easy-out?
>Just curious, always eager to learn new tricks.
>Ray C
>On Tue, 13 Jul 1999 08:05:19 Sheldon Rier wrote:
>>I've taken a bunch of fenders off & have found if the bolts are very rusty
>>it is better to tighten them til they twist off - you can center punch the
>>heads & drill a little ways into them & they twist off very easy
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
>Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail.
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 11:30:39 EDT
From: TNickolson
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Attention Scott Sheldrake

I sent you some pictures a few weeks ago and I am curious if you posted them.
If you did, please send me the web address so that I can see them.

Tom Nickolson
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 00:01:32 EDT
From: VegmanOCF
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Bed Wood Dimensions

I'm replacing the wood in the bed of my '52 F1 and don't have a pattern. Can
anyone give me the bed wood dimensions? I'm a pretty fair carpenter and hope
to save some money by doing it myself. Thanks
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End of pre61-list-digest V3 #199

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