pre61-list-digest Saturday, December 12 1998 Volume 02 : Number 341



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE Pre61 - Chassis Number
FTE Pre61 - Stepside
RE: FTE Pre61 - '60 flareside longbed
FTE Pre61 - re: '60 flareside longbed
Re: FTE Pre61 - Chassis Number
FTE Pre61 - manual steering 59
Re: FTE Pre61 - Chassis Number
FTE Pre61 - Frame number
Re: FTE Pre61 - manual steering 59
Re: FTE Pre61 - manual steering 59
FTE Pre61 - 1960 F100 cab mounts
FTE Pre61 - 3 speed Overdrive tranny

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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 07:24:06 -0600
From: "Rich Garber"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - Chassis Number

> Where on the chassis is the location of the chassis number? When the
> truck was done up the fire wall tag was removed as was the glove box id
> tag and not replaced. I don't have a manual yet so your help will be
> appreciated.

The ID# is located on the frame, pass. side, under the rad. support,
top. It is stamped, and depending on the condition of the frame (dirt,
grease, etc.) can be hard to find.

Rich
54 F100
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 06:33:42 -0600
From: Mike Garoppo
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Stepside

Shandy go to a welding shop and have them make you a piece the same size as your bed
thickness. Most shops have a break which can bend the metal for you. All you would
have to do is drill the holes, and take it to your body man who can mig weld it on for
you. It should not cost over 30 or 40 bucks depending on how much is rusted out. It
could cost less.

Fordman


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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:36:47 -0500
From: "Howard Tarnoff"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - '60 flareside longbed

Dennis Carpenter Reproductions can help you. Good Luck.

- -----Original Message-----
From:owner-pre61-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-pre61-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of shandy erisman
Sent:Thursday, December 10, 1998 5:06 PM
To:pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:FTE Pre61 - '60 flareside longbed

My bed has problems, where the bed wall attaches to the wooden
bed floor is rusted away I have considered welding in a peice of
angle Iron in order to give me something to bolt to but I was afraid it
may look lousy and I was wondering , does anyone manufacture that
section of the bed , or do any of you have experince withthis problem,
any help would be appreciated

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:42:19 -0500
From: Abe Stauffer
Subject: FTE Pre61 - re: '60 flareside longbed

shandy erisman wrote:
>My bed has problems, where the bed wall attaches to the wooden
>bed floor is rusted away I have considered welding in a peice of
>angle Iron in order to give me something to bolt to but I was afraid it
>may look lousy and I was wondering , does anyone manufacture that
>section of the bed , or do any of you have experince withthis problem,
>any help would be appreciated.

Shandy,
Mar-K of Oklahoma City, OK makes something they call bed angle covers.
I bought a pair for my bed rather than buying new bed sides. They look
just like bed strips and come in steel, stainless, or polished
stainless. They come with punched holes if you desire. I am at work now
and do not have access to my catalog so I don't have the phone # nor the
price, but I think they were about $40 for the pair (more for your long
bed). Look for their ads in Custom Classic Trucks or other magazines.
Abe
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:41:18 -0500
From: "KENNETH D MARTY"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Chassis Number

On my its located on top of pass.. side frame rail just about 4" in front
of were the front cab mount mounts to the side rail.

Ken 55
- -----Original Message-----
From: Clive Pedersen - CSERVNZ
To: 'pre61-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 11:56 PM
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Chassis Number


>Where on the chassis is the location of the chassis number? When the
>truck was done up the fire wall tag was removed as was the glove box id
>tag and not replaced. I don't have a manual yet so your help will be
>appreciated.
>
>55 F100 Pickup
>Clive Pedersen
>Auckland, New Zealand
>Email Clive.Pedersen lion-nathan.co.nz
>
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:54:07 EST
From: My59f100 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - manual steering 59

I have stock manual steering in my 59 f-100 style side and intend to keep it
that way. my problem is that it tends to wander on me especially when i hit a
bump or rough roads. I have replaced tie rod ends,king pins' and the drag link
looks ok to me but I havent ruled out replacing that also. My question is
should I try adjusting the steering box or a box rebuild? If so how do I tell
if I need adjustment or rebuild . Also if rebuild is needed what advise or
manual can I find basic proceedures. I have a 59 ford manual that shows me how
to use this Ford tool part# # &*^*$ fish scale . Any help will be great.
my59f100 aol.com.
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:46:24 -0500
From: "David M. Ackerschott"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Chassis Number

Hello, i found my chassis number on my 53 when i dissassembled it,
the number is located on top left of the front crossmember, the number
is stamped in the metal so it should be located there....
Hope this helps, dddavid



Clive Pedersen - CSERVNZ wrote:
>
> Where on the chassis is the location of the chassis number? When the
> truck was done up the fire wall tag was removed as was the glove box id
> tag and not replaced. I don't have a manual yet so your help will be
> appreciated.
>
> 55 F100 Pickup
> Clive Pedersen
> Auckland, New Zealand
> Email Clive.Pedersen lion-nathan.co.nz
>
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:35:23 -0800
From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Frame number

Clive Pedersen writes:
"Where on the chassis is the location of the chassis number? When the
truck was done up the fire wall tag was removed as was the glove box id tag
and not replaced. I don't have a manual yet so your help will be appreciated."

Clive,
As you can tell by now, the stamping location moved around quite a bit from
year to year. In 47 it was on top of the left frame rail near the steering
box. There will also be a second location for this number near the rear of
the truck, on top of the frame, sometimes on the rail and sometimes on the
crossmember. This one sometimes gets obliterated due to rust. The one in
front is hard to find but usually better preserved as it is most likely
covered with a layer of oil, grease, and dirt. The numbers are stamped in
and about 5/16 inch high. Probably a star stamped in front of and behind
the number. Hope you find yours.
Regards,
Roger Meier

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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:14:10 +0000
From: Fred g 454
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - manual steering 59

Mr. 59,

I believe the phenomenon you refer to is called "bump steer" ( the rest of you
guys correct me if I'm wrong) it comes with the truck. That's why so many of us
look for other solutions. That and ride quality. You can replace the whole front
end, with new stock components, and not eliminate it.

Hot Rod'56

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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:49:54 -0500
From: Gary Vandergrift
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - manual steering 59

I saved this entry from one of the experts here, looks pretty thorough
on adjusting the steering box.

In a message dated 98-05-18 22:48:02 EDT, you write:


>> panel has about 6" of free play around the diameter of the 18"
wheel, so
>> I roughly figure about 35 degrees. >>
Six inches is way too much. On center, they say there shouldn't be
any,
but I've never seen one that tight. The procedure in the manual (49-52,
but
damn close) is to: 1. disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm.
2.
Loosen the steering column tube to instrument panel bracket. 3. Back
the
side (sector) adjustment out (counterclockwise) to remove any load. 3.
Measure the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center of it's
rotation.
This is kinda the hard part. Ford must have had a spring scale, like a
fish
scale, which read in ounces. It should be 1/4 to 3/4 pound
on F1, F2, and F3, 1/2 to 1 lb on all others. I used a postal scale to
measure the weight of some sockets, then put them in a mesh bag my wife
(used
to) use for washing 'delicates,' then ran it's tie sting from the top of
the
steering wheel off to the side, then over a socket extension straight
down. I
think this translates into the force needed to turn the wheel. I also
measure
quarters ($0.25 pieces) to see what they weighed, if you don't have a
scale.
1/4 pound (4 ounces) is ~16 quarters, 3/4 pound (12 ounces) is
therefore ~48
quarters. You take it from there. If this measurement isn't right,
your need
to change the stack of shims under the shaft. Then shims are actually
gaskets
of varying thicknesses, and a selection is available from most of our
common
suppliers. This is a messy and iterative process. You need to have
some gear
lube in the box to accurately measure the turning force, then you need
to
remove the bottom plate to change shims, which dribbles gear lube all
over.
Once this is in spec, center the wheel. Then, turn the 'sector shaft
thrust adjusting screw' (side adjuster) until 'all end play is removed
from
the sector shaft.' Then the force should measure between 1 and 2 pounds
on
the F1, F2, and F3, and 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 pounds on other models.
I have found that when the gears are too worn, tightening the sector
shaft
adjusting screw too much jams the sector against the housing, which of
course
makes the wheel harder to turn, but doesn't reduce the free play or have
the
intended affect on steering accuracy. Then there's nothing left to do
but
replace the steering shaft (worm) and sector, or the whole box. Other
things
that wear out are the roller bearings on top and below the worm on the
steering shaft, the bushings on the outside of the sector, and the seal
on the
outside of the sector. If you're going to the expense (considerable) of
replacing the worm and sector, its probably worth replacing at least the
bearings and the seal. The bushings must require reaming to size, but
I've
never messed with those, so can't give practical advice.
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My59f100 aol.com wrote:
>
> I have stock manual steering in my 59 f-100 style side and intend to keep it
> that way. my problem is that it tends to wander on me especially when i hit a
> bump or rough roads. I have replaced tie rod ends,king pins' and the drag link
> looks ok to me but I havent ruled out replacing that also. My question is
> should I try adjusting the steering box or a box rebuild? If so how do I tell
> if I need adjustment or rebuild . Also if rebuild is needed what advise or
> manual can I find basic proceedures. I have a 59 ford manual that shows me how
> to use this Ford tool part# # &*^*$ fish scale . Any help will be great.
> my59f100 aol.com.
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:01:22 -0000
From: "Hedges"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 1960 F100 cab mounts

I called Classic Fabrication, 978-988-0009, which Ken Craig had posted a
message on December 9.

Apparently they do restorations on classics and if they cannot find a source
for certain body parts they need, they fabricate their own. They had
recently done a restoration on a 60 and now have available the following:
floor pans
front cab braces
inner cab corners
The price of the floor pan is $ 60 per side and the braces $ 55 per side. I
did not ask on the inner cab corners. All orders are shipped COD.
I only recently became a member of Ford Truck Enthusiasts and am very
impressed by all of the help that was offered to me on this quest. Thanks

Brian Hedges

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Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 01:56:34 -0600
From: "MARK AMES"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 3 speed Overdrive tranny

I'm still looking for a 3 speed overdrive tranny for my 56 M100. Does =
anyone out there have one that they have pulled out and put a newer drive =
train in? Does anyone use one of these now? how is it? any problems? =
What is the top speed you can obtain, Im looking for something that can =
cruise down the highway at 70 MPH (that's the speed limit on our interstate=
highways here in North Dakota) What is the RPM of your motor and what =
gear ratio is your rear end. I believe that the stock overdrive came with =
around 4.11 gears I also have a 3.92 that I can use If I need a little =
more top end. Also I saw in a recent post people looking for parts, I =
have 5 parts trucks 4 56's and 1 55 and I've also have parts off of other =
trucks. I have 2 sets of dash trim for a 53-55, and some good bumpers and =
a really nice tailgate if someone is looking for these let me know. Also =
have a 52 Panel that I need to sell. I have pictures of it that I can =....

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