pre61-list-digest Thursday, April 1 1999 Volume 03 : Number 095



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Re: steering
FTE Pre61 - How Do I Post?
FTE Pre61 - Tires
FTE Pre61 - Rust
FTE Pre61 - Comfort zone
Re: FTE Pre61 - Rust
FTE Pre61 - Ref Rear Axle Problems
FTE Pre61 - trim
Re: FTE Pre61 - Magazines
FTE Pre61 - ....
FTE Pre61 - ......
FTE Pre61 - Automotive Tool Definitions

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 13:29:20 -0400
From: hwillms ca.ibm.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: steering

I had many steering problems on my 48 F-1, and managed to get it all sorted
out and it is very driveable now on lousy Manitoba roads.

What I would add to the previous postings are:

1. It is critical to have a good steering box, the original should not be
expected to last forever. If it is worn out replace it with a re build or
get parts and re-assemble. This is not too difficult except you may need
to hone out the bushings to get right tolerence for new shaft. Any machine
shop can do this.

2. Get the preload on the steering box correct by removing adding the
shims(actually paper gaskets) between the removable plate at the front of
the box(4 bolts) and the box. Adjust for the right amount of tension(can't
remember specs but go by feel where there is no freeplay, there is some
tension but not stiff to turn) This needs to be adjusted at the high spot
on the box(will not necessarily be the exact centerpoint but within half a
turn or so...you find it by determining where the most tension is).
Disconnect the steering link by unsrewing the big screw where the steering
arm attaches before adjusting the above. Finally you can adjust the
steering box adjustment screw.

3. Radial tires make a big difference. I should have put them on years ago.



Henry Willms



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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 09:52:39 -0800
From: "Kelli & Tony Goble"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - How Do I Post?

Can I post if I am in the digest? How do I do that? I read through the web
site, but did not see anything specific on how to post.

Please advise.

Thanks!

- -----Original Message-----
From:owner-pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com]
Sent:Wednesday, March 31, 1999 2:10 AM
To:pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject:pre61-list-digest V3 #93


pre61-list-digest Wednesday, March 31 1999 Volume 03 : Number 093



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - 56 Roof Rust: Endemic to the species?
FTE Pre61 - Magazines
FTE Pre61 - Eyebrow Patch Panel
FTE Pre61 - Re: pre61 Fred Asked
FTE Pre61 - Re: Exhaust Leaks
Re: FTE Pre61 - 56 Roof Rust: Endemic to the species?
FTE Pre61 - Re:Re:Re '56 Roof Rust Endemic to the species?
FTE Pre61 - Steering box
FTE Pre61 - 39 Ford C.O.E. looking for inspiration

=======================================================================

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 07:19:36 PST
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 56 Roof Rust: Endemic to the species?

Bret, Usually when you get rust at the rain gutter/roof area it's caused
by the old seam sealer in the gutter which has shrunk or cracked over
the years. The roof is pinch welded at this point and water is seeping
between the panels causing rust. Which ever way you choose to fix it be
sure to strip & seal the gutter when done. The best sealer I've found is
GE 5200 marine sealer. It comes in a tube like caulking and is applied
with a caulking gun. It comes in black & white. I recommend the black as
it is more UV resistant. Just run a bead along gutter then smooth it out
with an acid brush. Sun or a heat lamp will let it flow nice & smooth
when you're done. This stuff lasts about 50 yrs. in marine applications
& is far superior to any of the 2 part automotive seam sealers on the
market.

John
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- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 10:32:30 -0700
From: "A. D. Dodge"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Magazines

Does anyone have subscrition info. and pricing on Classic Trucks
magazine? Any comments on the quality of the articles? Thanks for the
help!

Dusty Dodge
'55 F100

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- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 18:05:19 -0500
From: "Barbara A. Gatz"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Eyebrow Patch Panel

Hi guys does anyone know where or if you can buy an I guess it is called an
eyebrow patch panel for a 56 front fender. I found an old parts catalog
from a place called Schott Panels but the number is no longer in service
and I didn't get the town or state it was located. Any help will be
appreciated.
Marty 56 F350
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- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 18:19:46 -0800
From: joyce
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: pre61 Fred Asked

Fred,

The web site is www.baumannengineering.com/ I hope this helps. If
you can't find it that way you can click on links in FTE home page and
then click on Ford Car Sites and click on the blue link to braumanns.
Good information on the AODE, AOD, and the EOD4. I'm using my mothers
computer so my name is not Joyce as the e-mail sometimes says...It is
KenL 55, I have a picture of my 55 on the site.
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- ------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 20:03:21 -0500
From: Ed
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Exhaust Leaks

The best way I've seen to check for exhaust leaks is to have someone
hold a rag over the exhaust pipe. Any leak will start whistling.
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- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 20:42:37 EST
From: GILASAILR aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 56 Roof Rust: Endemic to the species?

John, Great idea on the use of 5200 as an auto seam sealer! I have just
'exited' the marine biz and you are spot on, but.....I believe you mean 3M
5200 .BTW it is freq. available at Home Depot.
Gary Oberbeck
47 1/2 t panel "Not Rod"
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- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 22:46:59 -0600
From: "Brett L. Habben"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re:Re:Re '56 Roof Rust Endemic to the species?

Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Re '56 Roof Rust Endemic to the species?
Meat,
In this day and age those prices are not all that bad. A whole cab
would save the cost (or labor, if you are doing your own metal work) of
swapping the roof. Offsetting that would be the cost of dipping another
cab, plus there is no guarantee of what you will find under the paint.
Decisions, decisions.
Thanks for the info. I may have to get back to you on your old codger.
But I haven't exhausted my own list of old codgers.
Brett

"They said 'Cali-forney's the place you ought to be!'
"So they loaded up the truck and moved to Bev-er-leeee........."


>Bob's f-100 in California Brett. 300.00 for roof plus 75.00 crate fee.
plus
>shipping. Waiting on Bob's to call on actual shipping cost where I
live. They
>also priced me a complete cab for 650.00 plus the shipping. Again I am
looking
>at that option as well.
>They will reply to me the shipping on that as well. Had to dip mine as I
did
>not know what was underneath the paint, and I wanted to start fresh from
bare
>metal. I also know of someone else who also in California sells 56
parts. I
>have bought several things from him and they are quality parts. Problem
is he
>is 77 years old and sometimes hard to get hold of. You can e-mail me
>meats56 aol.com and will supply you with his phone number if you want.
>Meat
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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- ------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 00:35:21 EST
From: SJablecki aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Steering box

I am finally getting this '51 F 1 running and it wanders all over the road.
I
read in the original owners manual that this can be adjusted. Has anybody
done
the adjustment and is it something us non mechanics can do. I have finished
cooling, gas, and electrical systems. Am now working on brakes, and front
end. An exhaust leak repair should finish the mechanical side of repairs.
Thanks in advance for any help. Stan
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- ------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 03:23:08 EST
From: Lookn4iron aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 39 Ford C.O.E. looking for inspiration

On a recent trip to Reno a 1939 Ford C.O.E. Truck mysteriously followed
me home (on a car trailer!). It is a project truck with original frame
rails sitting on 79 GMC 1 Ton axles. A 460 Ford and C6 transmission
moved back in the frame and a tilt cab apparatus from a Kenworth is in
place. While considerable fabrication has already begun, much
improvisation remains. The goal for me is to create a car hauler
similar to those portrayed in the March 1998 issue of Hot Rod entitled
"Ramp Rods". Can anyone share their own experience in a like project or
point me to sources (web, magazines, individuals etc.) for idea's in
completing it. My immediate concern is in choosing a radiator, power
booster-M/C , dual seats with thin backs to allow for room in the
comparatively small cab.

I hope the 2/3 Ford content qualifies this for posting.

Bill M.
Gardnerville, NV
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- ------------------------------

End of pre61-list-digest V3 #93
*******************************

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+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 12:51:36 EST
From: My59f100 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Tires

I,m About to replace my 6.70-15LT tires on the 59. I have a few concerns.
1.) Can't seem to be able to find any LT's
2.)I'm looking at firestone Bias From the few major suppliers any good or bad
experiences to share.
3.) I want to stay stock appearance any good radials out there to help me
out?Are they worth the extra money for about 1,000 miles a year?
4.) Should I step up to a 7.00 series?
Any comments appreciated
MY59F100
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 10:08:10 -0800
From: "Kelli & Tony Goble"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Rust

I've been reading the postings regarding the rusted roof epidemic. I know
there has been discussion about rust in the past, but I would like to raise
some more if possible. I have an extra stripped down cab as my main cab is a
mess. It has some surface rust I would like to control/remove until I am
ready to fix and paint. I have considered dipping, or using the POR-15 or
Extend products. I would appreciate any experience or opinions.

I am in the northern Central Valley of California. I haven't even had much
luck finding a place that can dip an entire cab much less the cost.

Thanks,

Tony
'56

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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 21:49:23 +0100
From: "Paul Y."
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Comfort zone

I saw in an old issue of Classic Trucks that someone had replaced the stock
seat in their F100 with a neat Caddy bench seat that had a pull down arm
rest complete with cup holders.
Does anyone know which model this is from? The only breakers yard in London
tells me a Caddy seat won't fit and it must have been a Lincoln seat. Who is
right?
Also, I have never seen a catalog with a replacement jet screenwash for my
truck. Anybody help?


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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 16:52:47 EST
From: Meats56 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Rust

Tony if it is just surface rust I would use 80grit paper and a d/a sander to
work it down, Then I would use primer on your spare cab, But in my opinion to
prep for painting, again I would remove surface rust then use a good epoxy
primer as it seals from moisture after which I would use a good
primer/surfacer then of coarse your finish paint. I dipped my cab (450.00 in
Louisville) then prepped my metal and then I went with the epoxy (dp48PPG)
primer, then the primer/surfacer. Hope this makes sense.

Meat-56
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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 20:07:15 -0500
From: "Bob"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Ref Rear Axle Problems

Sorry about the delay...just getting caught up on my mail..
>You said...
>I agree 100% Swapping your original Dana or Ford 9" for one of these is
> a definite step backwards.
> Warning: The C-clip retainer design is an accident waiting to happen. I
> once lost an axle out the side of a car due to a failed C-Clip. Any of
> you running these axles in any vehicle keep an eye on the axle end play.
I have the same problem with the Ford 9 inch....I had an axle bearing
roaring so I took the axle out and took it down to have the bearings
pressed off and a new one pressed on...apparently there was some damage
to the axle itself as now the axle slips out of the bearing and locking
ring....this is not good and I was fortunate that I saw it before the axle
came all the way out....Now I have to replace the axle. Each style has
it's own problems...


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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 18:20:15 -0800
From: "oldguy1"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - trim

I am looking for the chrome trim for the drip rail on my 54 f-100. while on
a trip South i stopped by Sacramento Vintage Ford... they have none but
think someone was going to start producing. any one know of any.
oldguy1

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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 21:59:19 EST
From: Cdalep aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Magazines

For Dusty Dodge, Re your inquiry If it isCustom Classic Trucks magazine , It
is published every other month and costs19.94 per year. Ihave kept a complete
library ever since I first subscribed. Lots of " How to " articles with pics.
Hope this helps.
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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 23:28:06 -0500
From: "Miguel....."
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ....

A trucker who had driven his fully loaded rig to the top of a steep hill
and was just starting down the equally steep other side when he noticed a
man and a woman lying in the center road,making love. He blew his airhorn
several times as he was bearing down on them. Realizing that they were not
about to get out of his way he slammed on his brakes and stopped just inches
from them. Getting out of the cab, madder than hell, the trucker walked to
the front of the cab and looked down at the two, still in the road, and
yelled, "What the hells the matter with you two? Didnt you hear me blowing
the horn? You couldve been killed!" The man on the highway, obviously
satisfied and not too concerned, looked up and said, "Look, I was coming,
she was coming, and you were coming. You were the only one with brakes."





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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 23:29:28 -0500
From: "Miguel....."
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ......

Henry Ford dies and goes to heaven. At the gates, the guy tells Ford,
Well, youve been such a good gut and your invention the car changed the
world. As a reward, you can hang out with anyone you want in heaven.

So Henry Ford thinks about it and says: I want to hang out with
Adam, the first man.So the guy at the gates points Adam out to Ford.

When Ford gets to Adam, Ford asks Hey arent you the inventor
of woman?

Adam says: Yes.

Well, says Ford, You have some major design flaws in your
invention :

1) There is too much front end protrusion
2) It chatters at high speeds
3) The rear end wobbles too much
4) and the intake is too close to the exhaust.

Hmmmmm.. says Adam, hold on. So Adam goes to the celestial
computer, types in a few keystrokes, and waits for the results. The computer
prints out a slip of paper and Adam reads it. He then says to Ford, It may
be that my invention is flawed, but according to the stellar computer, more
men are riding my invention than yours.



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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 23:33:23 -0500
From: "Miguel....."
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Automotive Tool Definitions

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used
as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far from the
object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard
cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes
containing convertible tops or tonneau covers.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling rollbar
mounting holes in the floor of a sports car just above the brake line that
goes to the rear axle.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion,
and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they
can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale garage
cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket drawer (What
wife would think to look in _there_?) because you can never remember to buy
lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort Campbell.

ZIPPO LIGHTER: See oxyacetylene torch.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old Salems from
the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal
bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
your beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling Stones poster
over the bench grinder.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and
hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "Django
Reinhardt".

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a Mustang to the ground after you
have installed a set of Ford Motorsports lowered road springs, trapping the
jack handle firmly under the front air dam.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a
hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another
hydraulic floor jack.

SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is
ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup on
crankshaft pulleys.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have forgotten
to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without
the handle.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from
a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your
battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop
light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is
not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main
purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm
howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle
of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
....


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