pre61-list-digest Wednesday, March 10 1999 Volume 03 : Number 070



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Alternator
Re: FTE Pre61 - Information on converting
Re: FTE Pre61 - 53 F250 (& '52 F-1) drivetrain
FTE Pre61 - Rear engine seal
Re: FTE Pre61 - Rear engine seal
FTE Pre61 - re list members
FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: List of members
FTE Pre61 - Weatherstripping and doors

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Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 07:00:57 -0500
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Alternator

A couple of days ago Jnelson wrote: " have a 56 Ford F-100 Panel,
223 6 Cyl 12 Volt Generator. I want to
vonvert it to a 12 Volt Alternator, Any Input ???"

I made the conversion using an alternator off a '65 Mercury Comet,
which is the one Ford used in one form or another until just a few years
ago. The voltage regulator came off the same car, and I fabricated a
wiring harness modelled on a schematic I found in my '64-'71 Chilton's
manual. I modified the existing generator mount to accept the
alternator, which required some drilling and (for now) a stack of
washers for spacers. The only trouble I have had is that I didn't quite
get the alternator in line with the pulleys that drive it, and I used a
cheap connector for the voltage regulator. BOTH problems are to be
addressed VERY soon!
The end result has been an all Ford installation that doesn't look to
bad, if I do say so myself, and it keeps the battery charged!



Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
innaccesible part of the vehicle."

grover ford-trucks.com
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Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 08:55:49 -0500
From: 47Fred
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Information on converting

Jnelson wrote:
>
> I have a 56 Ford F-100 Panel, 223 6 Cyl 12 Volt Generator. I want to vonvert it to a 12 Volt Alternator, Any Input ???

Like Don, I got a mid '70's alternator, and mounted it on my '57 292
in place of the generator, it just took a few spacers and a reworked
adjustment arm. I did put a piece of twisted flat stock off the
waterpump to help brace it. The regulator went in place of the stock
unit, on a passenger car it's by the radiator and out of sight, and I
was able to reconnect the stock harness to accommodate the new unit. I
think one wire had to be added, Wiring is per Chilton's or Motor's
manual for a alternator with ammeter, but the idiot light still works.
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Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 09:20:00 +0000
From: Fred g 454
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 53 F250 (& '52 F-1) drivetrain

Ditto here. Only the drivetrain I am trying to relocate is a '54 V/8, stick
trans, driveshaft and rearend.

Taer2 aol.com wrote:

> I also have original parts from a 52 f-1 that I'm trying to find a home for.
> I'm in the Chicago, IL area and haven't been able to find a place to advertise
> these successfully. I don't know where you're located with the 250 setup, but
> I too have an inline 6cyl with 3sp., as well as front and rear ends, radiator,
> etc. If you find a place to sell or trade, please let me know.
> Thanks,
>
> eric
> taer2 aol.com
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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 12:46:27 -0500
From: hwillms ca.ibm.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Rear engine seal

I have a 48 Ford truck with a Flathead V8. The engine was completely
rebuilt 10 years ago, about 8,000 miles since rebuild. It appears the rear
crankshaft seal is leaking.

Does anyone know what is involved in replacing this, ie does the crankshaft
need to be dropped slightly, if not does the oil pan need to be dropped
completely, or can it be done without opening the engine up, just by
removing the trans and flywheel ? Is there a choice between a one piece or
two piece seal?

Any advice on the best way to do this is appreciated, it's been awhile
since I replaced a rear seal and have never done one on a flathead.

Henry Willms


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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 15:18:28 EST
From: PWPTRUCK1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Rear engine seal

I just installed the front and rear seals on my flatty yesterday, as I am
completing a rebuild. My engine is on a stand and out of the truck, of course.
My seals were the rope two-piece and i would not see how they could be
replaced without dropping the pan. There is a tool i have used called the
Chinese finger that I have used to install neoprene seals in modern engines
without dropping the crank that worked quite well. I'm not sure if this would
work on the rope type because they are fairly delicate. If I was doing the
job, I guess I would resort to dropping the crank a little and while I was at
it, replace the front seal and pan gaskets too. If ther is a better way to do
this, I would like to know too.

Paul
'52 F-3
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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 17:23:00 -0800 (PST)
From: David Stokes
Subject: FTE Pre61 - re list members

My 2 cents. I really enjoy reading about problems and solutions.
However, I believe that if the lists are made public then the posting will
decrease because the Ford owners will converse with each other about
technical stuff instead of posting. There is a weatlth of knowledge out
there lets keep it on the postings

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Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 21:34:16 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: List of members

It is the policy of Ford Truck Enthusiasts to keep
all list addresses private. We will not publish
your email addresses in a public form.

Ken Payne
Admin


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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 21:14:16 +800
From: drclark wa.freei.net
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Weatherstripping and doors

I just put new weatherstripping on my '56 panel, so here is my experience. The
thinner you use to clean it off depends on what was used on your truck. Start
with the milder thinners first. Put tape on each side of the rubber to protect
the paint and start with a contact cement thinner, then try lacquer thinner
and move hotter later , but use it sparingly.
After i have put my new weatherstripping on, I am having trouble adjusting
the doors. Does it give hints in the repair manual or does anyone have experience
here that might help me out?
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End of pre61-list-digest V3 #70
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