pre61-list-digest Friday, March 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 065



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Re: oil filter conversion
FTE Pre61 - FTE Pre61 Lower engine knock
Re: FTE Pre61 - '55 F-100 w/ big block?
Re: FTE Pre61 - Seatbelts, Magazines, and etc
FTE Pre61 - Pitman arm
FTE Pre61 - Dallas F100 fans
Re: FTE Pre61 - Pitman arm stuff

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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 06:53:59 -0500
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: oil filter conversion

- --
Garylee wrote: "Anyone out there know who makes, or where I can get, a
filter conversion unit for my 239 which will replace the stock canister
and screen?
Thanks for your help."

Gary, check with Obsolete Ford Parts in Oklahoma City, Mac's, Bob's
F100s, and maybe Dennis Carpenter. I'd give you phone numbers on all
those, but I left all my catalogues at my office. You'll find ads for
them in "Classic Truck" magazine and "Custom Classic Truck" magazine.
Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
innaccesible part of the vehicle."

grover ford-trucks.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 08:38:59 -0800
From: "Vierra, William BGI SF"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - FTE Pre61 Lower engine knock

It seems I will finally soon have some time to start working on my 51 F1.
The first order of business is resolve what to do about a knock coming from
the lower part of the motor when it is revved or driven at 55+. The motor
is a 71 302 with 66 289 heads bolted to an automatic I have not had time to
identify yet. I bought the truck just under a year ago and this is the
motor that was in it. It looks to be a completely stock two barrel motor
from a car based on the intake manifold and the engine number.

I would be willing to change to a different motor and transmission if any
one has a recommendation. I am looking to have the truck be a daily driver
and do use it as a truck so I am more interested in hauling ability rather
than speed.

I have looked into going back to the flat head and three speed but that
seems to be costly at this point as I would have to acquire everything.
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 12:04:05 -0500
From: 47Fred
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - '55 F-100 w/ big block?

Mcat wrote:
>
> 47fred, sorry to take a week to answer back, computer went south thursday
> and I just got it working tonight. Yes I really own 5, a friend in the next
> town owns 4, and another guy owns 2, one is the infamous SOHC and its still
> in the crate. A guy in the southern tier has 6, including a running SOHC in
> a boss 429 car thats street driven. when we go to cruse ins you know who
> gets the most looks. Garry

That makes what...60-$70,000 more or less? I saw a cracked 427 block
asking $4,000 in Hershey Pa. a couple years ago, you wouldn't consider a
trade for a 2.8 liter '79 Mustang V-6 would you? Between you and your
neighbors, you must pretty well have the market cornered on these
babies. I suppose one of you guys must have a set of tunnel port heads
also?
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 12:16:40 -0500
From: 47Fred
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Seatbelts, Magazines, and etc

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> Forwarded for: RJC988 aol.com
>
> Guys,
> I got the torx bolts out of the Lincoln seatbelts using an Allen wrench. I did
> strip out the back seatbelt bolts. I was hoping to get them as well so I would
> have 2 mounting options!
>

> For the 51 - 52 guys: is $1500 too much for a very dinged and (typical) rusty
> 52 truck?

The main problem with the seat belt bolts is that there is usually a
little bit of loctite on them, so that they won't fall out. Makes the
lawyers sad, and the beancounters glad. IF you can get even a small
amount of heat from a propane torch on them, they aren't too bad.
Otherwise, need to have a least two new, and good, torx drivers and a
breaker bar on any expedition, least you return empty handed and
bruised.

Dinged, no, rusty.. Maybe. Cost of fenders, floorbards, bed, running
boards? Cab, doors, solid maybe again. What might you pay for a restored
painted, roadworthy truck? Take that value, subtract the cost and
repairs and you have some answer.
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 99 09:29 nzdt
From: Simon Clements
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Pitman arm

Hi Don,

I have seen this done before by cutting off the splined end of the original
pitman shaft, then grinding or machining it so it ends up as a round splined
insert.

Make the new pitman arm out of metal at least as thick as the original
splined section, then drill a hole in it to suit the splined insert and weld
it in on both sides. This will give the maximum weld area to take the loads.

(if you file a couple of 'flats' on the outside of the splined section, and
make the corresponding hole in the fabricated pitmn arm to suit, it will
mean the insert can't spin inside and will further reduce the amount of
stress on the welded joint)

It is quite acceptable to make steering arms out of mild steel, providing it
is of sufficient thickness. It is better that it is softer and deforms in
an impact that being brittle and breaking off altogether.

Needless to say, if you are not an excellent welder, fabricate it and then
take it to someone who is!

cheers,
Simon

>Subject: FTE Pre61 - Pitman arms
>
>Hello,
>Does anyone have any experiece cutting off the end of the pitman arm
>that mounts to the steering gear and welding it to a piece of 1/2"
>plate? Is the pitman arm soft, so you can weld to it without it getting
>brittle and cracking? I need to fabricate a special arm and this seems
>like the easiest way.
>Thanks for you help,
>Don Chandler

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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:29:22 EST
From: WinfordR aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Dallas F100 fans

I am an F100 fan. I am combining parts from a '54, and a '55 with a C4
transmission and a radiator from a '70 Mustang, 5.0L engine from a '92
Mustang, Fatman II front end with Camaro calipers and Granada rotors, an 89
Ford Ranger fuel tank, to enable fuel injection for the 5.0 engine. The rear
end is a locking type Ford of the late 60's. I have had the body work totally
done in parts, including the finish painting. Lacking only a bed, some nice
wheels/tires and several months work to finish. I live in the North Dallas
area (McKinney).
I don't know of any F100 clubs in the area, but would like to.

My other vehicles include a 92 F150, a 96 Mustang GT, and a 91 Explorer. My
son has a 95 F150 4x4, a restored 65 Mustang 289, and an 86 Mustang GT. (We
like Fords).
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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 07:52:35 -0000
From: "Ray Cardogno"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Pitman arm stuff

Tis true Tis true. You would want to be supplied with the same type of steel and weld rod before you fabricate. I would not recommend doing this for a pitman arm. Was just suggesting heat treating as a way for someone bent on doing it - to minimize disaster possibilities.
- --

On Wed, 03 Mar 1999 22:26:01 mike omlin wrote:
>If you don't use the same kind of metal on the piece added to the pitman
>arm there is no way to get the whole part to heat treat the same
>throughout because you have dissimilar metals with different heat
>treating properties....if you could get the piece you want to add from
>another pitman arm you would run a good chance of getting like material.
>But in the end you are still taking a risk with a very vital part of the
>truck, and really ugly consequences if it should fail.
>Mike Omlin
>somewhere near Seattle
>
>>You may want to take the pitman arm to a heat-treating shop and have
>them Rockwell test it for hardness before cutting so that after
>fabricating they can heat treat the whole thing back to spec for you.
>I've even done springs that way.
>
>
>______________________________________________________
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>


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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