pre61-list-digest Sunday, January 31 1999 Volume 03 : Number 030



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Re: Fender Welting or bead
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Fender Welting or bead
RE: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders
RE: FTE Pre61 - Paint Question
FTE Pre61 - Welding Choices
Re: FTE Pre61 - Y-Block 312
FTE Pre61 - plate confusion
Re: FTE Pre61 - Welding Choices
Re: FTE Pre61 - plate confusion
FTE Pre61 - Ford truck groups F-1 1948
Re: FTE Pre61 - Welding Choices
FTE Pre61 - Fan Shroud for '57 F100

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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 05:11:38 -0600
From: "Robert Jones"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Fender Welting or bead

On my '49 I laid the welting out on the inside of the fenders and marked out
the hole pattern and then from the bottom edge of the welting I cut into the
holes to form slots. I then installed the fenders on the truck and left all
of the bolts loose enough so that I could slide the welting in and then
tighten all the bolts. This way I didn't have to try to hold the welting on
while I tried to align the fenders and bolt them on. This worked very
nicely.

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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:43:18 +0000
From: Fred g 454
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Fender Welting or bead

You may want to take a look at a pictorial "how-to" called "adding welting to
your classic truck". It looks like an easy way to do a professional job. They
have a lot of interesting info in this section. A lot of the trucks are Chevy's
but a lot of the info covers Ford's.Unlike some in this group... they don't
discriminate.

Fred
Hotrod '56

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classic truckshop. com/techdir.htm

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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:45:59 -0600
From: "Rich Garber"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders

>
> A MIG unit is pretty much a brainless unit. Pull the trigger and drag the
> arc. Once in a while, youll have to clean out the nozzle or
> maybe get some
> wire unstuck.
>
This is a very correct statement! I don't know how I ever got by without
one.
Very Very easy to use. I also bought an electronic helmet. I very good
investment
for about $150.00


Rich
54 F100

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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:45:57 -0600
From: "Rich Garber"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - Paint Question

> Any of you know what the correct color Yellow is for my 239 Y-block, or
> have an idea what current color is close? I've got it torn down, so I
> might as well paint it....
> --
> Don Neighbors
> '54 F250 Named Grover
>
Don,

I had the hardest time matching the red on the engine in my 54.
I took the push rod cover off (only place where it was still red)
cleaned it up with rubbing compound and took it to a paint shop.
If you then wet the piece with water it will be very close to what
it was. Remember that it has darkened over the years. I think I got
a very close match. If any one wants the color for a 54 I have the
paint numbers using the above procedure. The only sample I had I think
I sent it to Abe?

Rich
54 F100
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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 13:09:36 -0800
From: Tulio
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Welding Choices

I can see from responses that the ARC welder (a unit that is a 220vlt
plugin that arcs electrical current through a rod to the metal grounded
by a grounding line) is satisfactory for most metal work and including
some sheet metal work. I have a desire to work with Aluminum sheeting
so I am still not clear weather I'm being told it will do that type of
work?

Where can I reach this Eastwood Company?

I'm looking at the ol' budget and having to make challenged decisions to
what I will have to settle for... nothing.. or a modest purchase..

How much am I looking at say for:

1) MIG unit?
2) TIG unit?
3) Oxi/Acetaline torch? I've seen these on the job and they seem pretty
neat. Sound pretty much like the TIG unit? This unit has me curious.
Seems these units are prolific and do a pretty nice job of welding..
but,.. is the TIG better?... or would the ARC be ok?

4) I have the neighbor with the 220vlt ARC welder for $100 and that
add-on to lower the temp..

I know myself and I enjoy to make those pretty quality type of jobs...
and aluminum is the type of metal I will be using often... so, my
question is... will it be possible (with moderate certainty) to do this
type of work with the ARC welder and say with that Adapter?



> Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:16:41 -0800
> From: "Jason Piccola"
> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders
>
> MIG (Metal Inert Gas) Welders are great for sheet metal welding.

> I would buy the Arc Welder for $100. You can purchase a product from the
> Eastwood company called "Stich Welder" It attaches to the end of your Arc welder
> and produces half the heat as a standard arch welder. It costs around $60. This
> will enable you to weld sheet metal with an Arc welder.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:37:54 -0800
> From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders
>
> Jason has some good points but...
>
> An ARC welder can do just about anything you want, as long as youre working
> on a mild steel project. Producing a pretty and high quality weld though,
> takes some practice. If youre going to be patchin' holes in your favorite
> fender, my suggestion is to practice on an old fender first.

> A TIG welder will do just about anything. I've even seen razor blades
> welded to together. It also uses inert gases to shield the arc but you use
> a technique similar to gas welding. The welding torch in one hand and your
> filler rod in the other. You can't get a much prettier weld but it takes
> hours and hours of practice to get good at it.
>
> Dennis
>


- --
Tulio Solorzano
'60 F-100 Custom Cab
'79 HD Sportster
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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 16:45:54 EST
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Y-Block 312

> > Andy wrote: "Does anyone know anything about rebuilding a YBlock 312??"
> > I'm rebuilding a Y-block 239 right now. I can try to help!
> > --
> > Don Neighbors
> > '54 F250 Named Grover
I just got a Red's Headers (Speed Equipment for Old Fords) catalog, and he
has Y block 'stuff' in there.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/mboese/EarlyFords.htm. Red and
Marilyn had been more than willing to talk with me over the phone about my
truck, and I'm sure they have practical advice to share. Their emphasis is
flatheads, but they do have Y-block engine parts in the catalog.
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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:51:01 -0700
From: Kemp Farnsworth
Subject: FTE Pre61 - plate confusion

I took the identification plate off of my truck, located in the engine
compartment right beside the brake and clutch master cylinders, and I
must say i am perplexed. I have a book that interprets the serial
number for me, but I am at a loss for the meaning of the rest. heres
what it looks like:

NAVY DEPARTMENT
Truck Carco Pick Up 4800 CVW 1/2 Ton 4X2
Model:F-100 Capacity:1275
Serial No.: NONE Year of Manufacture:1958
Engine serial number:F10J8l-13026 (here it looks like) Insp.
Registration No. USN:94-36724 (the back of a quarter) Stamp
.
.
Date Shipped:7-58
MFD By:Ford Division - Ford Motor Company

in between the space it is average, but the plate doesn't look like
other plates or the one in the book. Anybody KNOW anyhting about this
truck. Thank you

REF
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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 15:07:00 PST
From: "mike omlin"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Welding Choices

I have had a tig unit for about 23 yrs. and for my use it is the only
way to go.....the oxy/acetelyne unit(150.00-300.with tanks) is good for
doing a lot of welding work but I basically only use mine for cutting
things up ("hot wrench")because compared to a tig set up it generates
way more heat in the work piece....The mig unit(wire
welder...500.00-1500.00)) is a no brainer and can make you a good welder
in a matter of hours...and for the person who does not want to wrap up
$3000.oo in a welding set-up(industrial TIG unit) it is the best all
around way to go....gives you the sheetmetal capability and the
structural steel capability in one unit
regardless which way you decide to go I would not waste my time with
anything less than a good industrial grade unit....I have had my 300abp
Miller welder for 23 yrs. and was well worth the 2000.00 I put into it
in 1976....JMO but when it comes to tools why go B-rate? You just might
use them again.
Mike Omlin

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:04:23 PST
From: "Andy D"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - plate confusion

>NAVY DEPARTMENT
>Truck Carco Pick Up 4800 CVW 1/2 Ton 4X2
>Model:F-100 Capacity:1275
>Serial No.: NONE Year of Manufacture:1958
> Engine serial number:F10J8l-13026 (here it looks like) Insp.
> Registration No. USN:94-36724 (the back of a quarter) Stamp
>.
>.
> Date Shipped:7-58
>MFD By:Ford Division - Ford Motor Company
>
>in between the space it is average, but the plate doesn't look like
>other plates or the one in the book. Anybody KNOW anything about this
truck. Thank you

This looks like a truck built for the military "NAVY". Most of the
trucks have plates on them similar to this. They can be bought at DRMO
auctions when the military decides to get rid of them, most at around
50,000 miles, at least all the ones I've seen for sale at DRMO. In the
past 5 years. None of them are that old though the and all 80's Ch*#ys
4x4's with 24 volt starters. Some go for as cheep as $700.


Andy
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/7464
ICQ# 13179729
70 F-100,360 2v (soon to be 4v),C/6
56 F-600,272 2v (soon to be factory 4v),4speed
56 F-100 Bigwindow,223 1v,3speed


______________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 20:19:13 EST
From: Elling1 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Ford truck groups F-1 1948

Thanks to the postings of this list I have had alot of my questions answered
before i had to ask. But I need to ask if any one knows of any ford clubs in
central Florida. A
group such as this would be a great help in this stage of my frame off
restore.
thanks,
Bill
F-1 1948, Point in time
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 05:49:18 -0000
From: "Ray Cardogno"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Welding Choices

>1) MIG unit?
>2) TIG unit?
>3) Oxi/Acetaline torch? I've seen these on the job and they seem pretty
>neat. Sound pretty much like the TIG unit? This unit has me curious.
>Seems these units are prolific and do a pretty nice job of welding..
>but,.. is the TIG better?... or would the ARC be ok?

Ray here back with more TIG sTIGma.

The oxyacetylene unit is an extremely versatile tool to have. With it you can not only weld, but you can cut steel, bend steel, loosen frozen rusty bolts, etc. The biggest drawback to welding sheetmetal is that it spreads the heat way too much and just about destroys a sheetmetal weld. Major distortion. If you are on a budget I would start with an oxy acetylene cutting/welding gig. I like to go to public auctions and I see these all the time going from $50 to $100. Usually not including the cylinders because 9 out of 10 times the cylinders are leased.

Getting back to TIG. The tig units can also do stick or arc welding. You simply shut off the high frequency and presto, it's an arc welder. But turn on the TIG welder's high frequency again and turn your current all the way down and you can even strike an arc on your fingernail that you won't even feel. This little bit of high frequency does magic to the arc once you add some current to it and you can use the variable heat trigger dynamically to "play" with the surface of your sheet metal in the smallest spot til you get the perfect amount of controlled heat BEFORE you introduce any filler. With both MIG and ARC welders the thing that strikes the arc IS THE FILLER and it is GOING TO MELT onto your work weather you want it to or not. I suppose that's what grinders are for :) I rarely grind any welds and there is never any slag to chip off of them. You mentioned aluminum. You can weld almost any metal with a TIG or a MIG - aluminum, Brass, copper, Stainless, etc and produce those nice clean welds you see when you buy shop-made aluminum items. Beware that if you want to use a MIG on some metals you have to use the proper wire/feeder for the material. With a TIG you can just take a scrap of the metal being welded and use it as filler.

Each welder type has it's application where it is best suited for the job. The following is my oppinion:

MIG is THE BEST PRODUCTION WELDER YOU CAN BUY! Set it up for a particular production job and you can just keep going and going.

ARC is BEST FOR COST EFFECTIVE AND VERSATILE MEDIUM TO HEAVY STRUCTURAL WORK. Use it on just about any steel job. Don't forget your chipping hammer and grinder. Also arc welders are dirt cheap at auction. I do plan on getting a small dedicated AC-DC arc welder one of these days that I'll actually keep (I buy and sell all kinds of things from computers to welders to forktrucks etc. and I never seem to keep the welders because everyone wants one). I recently bought ten 240 volt, single phase, 500 amp Lincoln Idealarc welders for $25 ea. I scrapped them for the copper. They were huge, 500 pounds ea. and were dang ugly. I would have been ashamed to sell one but they did work.


TIG is BEST FOR CONTROLLED LIGHT TO MEDIUM GAUGE WORK
I cuss it out everytime I weld 1/4-inch deck plate and don't have an arc welder handy, however just this evening a buddy of mine who has no extra cash to get a new exhaust system, needed his exhause pipes welded. I found a few rusted through pinholes that I was able to carfully make the edges slightly molten and add filler to close the holes. Difficult with a filler electrode that wants to melt and stick on contact.

Sorry for blabbing, I had too much coffee tonight.



Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 01:44:24 EST
From: AMorgan351 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Fan Shroud for '57 F100

Hi:
I have a 57 F-100 with a 272. I'd like to get a fan shroud but the aftermarket
(John's, Sacto Vintage ...) only seem to stock them for 53-56. Are the
radiators close to the same shape? I measured mine, it's 25" wide by 26" tall
with two bolts on each side holding it to the framing. I wouldn't mind doing
....


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