pre61-list-digest Saturday, January 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 028



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Steering Wheel
FTE Pre61 - gauge info.
FTE Pre61 - gauges etc.
FTE Pre61 - elec choke
FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders
FTE Pre61 - Fender Welting or bead
Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders
Re: FTE Pre61 - Fender Welting or bead
FTE Pre61 - 9" rear end
Re: FTE Pre61 - 9" rear end
FTE Pre61 - Gas Gauge and More
FTE Pre61 - Paint Question
Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders
Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig vs Tig. Dig?

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 07:10:53 -0700
From: "A. D. Dodge"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Steering Wheel

I own a nice 1955 F-100 with a steering wheel that's an embarrasment.
It's badly cracked and there are chips and gouges around the hub.
Thought about fixing it myself with JB Weld or anothe epoxy, but it
looks too far gone. Has anyone bought one from one of the classic truck
suppliers? How about the horn button (for a Custom Cab) and all the
related parts?

Thanks for your help!

Dusty Dodge
Red '55 F-100 292 4V

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:51:29 EST
From: SJablecki aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - gauge info.

Lee Kelly 208 734 7785 phone and fax. Can answer all questions re: gauge
restoration, 6 to 12 volt conversions, early gauges to late, early Speedo
repairs, auto clock to quartz.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:08:25 PST
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - gauges etc.

Regarding oil gauge installation, unless it's a Ford OEM gauge of that
vintage requiring a CVR, you should follow instructions supplied with
gauge. It will most likely require a 12V source, either from ign switch,
input side of CVR, etc.(Which ever is easier for your installation.)I
would also recommend you keep idiot light, it will get your attention to
look at gauge. Just install a T in block where original sender is,& use
both senders(gauge & light).As far as elec. choke goes, find a 12V
source that is controlled by ign switch (do NOT use + side of ign coil).
If you still have generator you could hook up to "ARM" (armature)
terminal of voltage reg. Don't know of any good books on subject - I'm
sure there are some though. My business is auto electrics so this stuff
seems pretty natural to me - been doing it for over 30 years! Good
luck!



______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:21:01 PST
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - elec choke

Oops. I just looked at your signature. If you have a 5.0 Ford eng using
a Ford alt with external volt reg. you should connect elec choke to
stator terminal of alt. (It's the insulated terminal farthest away from
battery terminal - usually has either a black or white insulator. This
is the way Ford connects their factory elec chokes.

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:17:48 -0800
From: Tulio
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders

I've seen and heard of MIG welders being UP THERE in the demigods of
tools to work with. I don't have any tools yet to do any metal work...
but would love to start some day soon. I have a neighbor that is
selling an 250vlt Arc Welder for $100.00 I will probably buy for those
heavy frame type jobs but, I am wondering of this MIG welder I hear so
much about. I have one of the toy welders that you use Oxigen and MAP
in small canisters that only last like 15 mins and pffft... not had
much luck with them.. I would like to build myself a solid bed lid for
my truck like they do at SNUGtops but they don't sell one for '60
trucks. Theirs are of fiberglass but... hey, metal is better, right!?
So.. I will perhaps try to build me a nice lid to cover my bed that I
can lock down and flow with the body style. hmm.. will have to be
light enough to pick up and yet sturdy enough to not just fold up and
bend out of shape the first time I open the lid! hehe.. some framing
will be required and light aluminum I suppose for the sheeting on top.
hmmm.. I can see I won't be using the ARC welder!!!


> I also use the money I save
> on these projects to further 'invest' in some good tools, MIG welder,
> ect which in turn makes subsequent jobs easier and more fun.

> Hope this helps,
> Eric 'Stitch'

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:35:40 -0800
> From: "Jason Piccola"
> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 2 responses to sheetmetal repairs
>
> Eric,
>
> I have just purchased a MIG conversion kit for my welder which really help
> in welding sheet metal.

- --
Tulio Solorzano
'60 F-100 Custom Cab
'79 HD Sportster
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:09:28 -0800
From: "O'Connell, Dennis M"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Fender Welting or bead

Hi all,

Does anyone out there know which issue of the truck magazines had a
pictorial on an easy way of attaching the fender welting/bead before
installing the fenders. I believe it was in Classic Trucks, but I can't
find it in any of my old issues.

Thanks

Dennis
55F100
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:16:41 -0800
From: "Jason Piccola"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders

MIG (Metal Inert Gas) Welders are great for sheet metal welding. They use a gas
(Usually a C02/Argon mix) to shield the arc. This helps the flame burn with less
intensity for lighter gage metal.

I would buy the Arc Welder for $100. You can purchase a product from the
Eastwood company called "Stich Welder" It attaches to the end of your Arc welder
and produces half the heat as a standard arch welder. It costs around $60. This
will enable you to weld sheet metal with an Arc welder.

Make sure that you get training on the Arc Welder.

Jason
55' F-250

Tulio wrote:

> I've seen and heard of MIG welders being UP THERE in the demigods of
> tools to work with. I don't have any tools yet to do any metal work...
> but would love to start some day soon. I have a neighbor that is
> selling an 250vlt Arc Welder for $100.00 I will probably buy for those
> heavy frame type jobs but, I am wondering of this MIG welder I hear so
> much about. I have one of the toy welders that you use Oxigen and MAP
> in small canisters that only last like 15 mins and pffft... not had
> much luck with them.. I would like to build myself a solid bed lid for
> my truck like they do at SNUGtops but they don't sell one for '60
> trucks. Theirs are of fiberglass but... hey, metal is better, right!?
> So.. I will perhaps try to build me a nice lid to cover my bed that I
> can lock down and flow with the body style. hmm.. will have to be
> light enough to pick up and yet sturdy enough to not just fold up and
> bend out of shape the first time I open the lid! hehe.. some framing
> will be required and light aluminum I suppose for the sheeting on top.
> hmmm.. I can see I won't be using the ARC welder!!!
>
> > I also use the money I save
> > on these projects to further 'invest' in some good tools, MIG welder,
> > ect which in turn makes subsequent jobs easier and more fun.
>
> > Hope this helps,
> > Eric 'Stitch'
>
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:35:40 -0800
> > From: "Jason Piccola"
> > Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 2 responses to sheetmetal repairs
> >
> > Eric,
> >
> > I have just purchased a MIG conversion kit for my welder which really help
> > in welding sheet metal.
>
> --
> Tulio Solorzano
> '60 F-100 Custom Cab
> '79 HD Sportster
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:06:23 +0000
From: Kevin Coughlin
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Fender Welting or bead

Dennis,

I just did mine, found the easiest way (for me) was to take all but three
attaching bolts out and leave those three loose. Then I lined up the welt in
between the fender and bed side starting at the lower front part. I punched
the holes as I went and put each bolt in. I used a small screwdriver to
punch the holes and then pushed/screwed the bolts through the welting. It
worked real well and the welting and fender/bedside came out right. Just my
2 cents worth.

Good Luck,

Kevin

O'Connell, Dennis M wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone out there know which issue of the truck magazines had a
> pictorial on an easy way of attaching the fender welting/bead before
> installing the fenders. I believe it was in Classic Trucks, but I can't
> find it in any of my old issues.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dennis
> 55F100
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:19:25 -0600
From: "Charlie Powell"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 9" rear end

I am putting a 9" rear end from a late model 60's car under my 55 F-100,
which has a 302 with a C4 transmission. The spring perch pads have
already been welded onto the rear end housing since the previous owner
had this rear end under a 54 F-100. My question is that the rear end is
not centered, it is 1/2 an inch more on the right side than the left
side. How much difference will this make ? Also, I checked the pinion
angle to the transmission angle. Placing the 90 degree angle finder, on
the end of the transmission shaft, it is sloped down 3 degrees. Checking
the pinion on the rear end, and it is sloped upward 5 degrees. Can
anyone please tell me how much should the rear end degree be reading
with my transmission shaft reading 3 degrees. I presently have a 1/2
plate between the transmission mount and the crossmember, in order to
try and level the transmission. I could take this plate out and lower
the transmission, but that would also increase the downward slope
degrees more than the 3 degrees. I have been told that it needs to be as
close to level as possible.

Thanks in advance for your comments and help.
charlie, cpowell american-trouser.com

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:58:44 EST
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 9" rear end

In a message dated 1/29/1999 5:33:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cpowell american-trouser.com writes:

> I checked the pinion angle to the transmission angle. Placing the 90 degree
angle finder, on the end of the transmission shaft, it is sloped down 3
degrees. Checking
> the pinion on the rear end, and it is sloped upward 5 degrees. Can
> anyone please tell me how much should the rear end degree be reading
> with my transmission shaft reading 3 degrees. I presently have a 1/2
> plate between the transmission mount and the crossmember, in order to
> try and level the transmission. I could take this plate out and lower
> the transmission, but that would also increase the downward slope
> degrees more than the 3 degrees. I have been told that it needs to be as
> close to level as possible.
The slope at the front and the back need to be as close to equal as
reasonalbly possible. The tranny tailshaft and the differential pinion should
be parallel. I don't think the 'level' is important. The 'equal but
opposite' is to balance the U-joint motion. I'm not sure what your
explanation really means - if the driveshaft is down 3 degrees from the
tranny, then the pinion is up 5 degrees, I'd pull that 1/2" plate, and measure
again. Maybe you'll get close to 5 degrees slope toward the rear on both
ends.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:31:30 -0500
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Gas Gauge and More

Ken Toop said: "The engine I installed came with an electric
choke. How do I hook that up?"

Ken, there are a couple of ways to do that. One way I learned from a
fellow VW nut, which was to run a wire from the hot side of the coil
(Where power comes from the ignition switch) to the connector on the
choke. I've tried that with limited success. My old Squareback had
electric chokes on both carburetors, and the power drain was enough to
keep the choke from working correctly. The Better Way, which is how I
hooked it up on my '63 Merc, is to run a wire directly from the ignition
switch to the choke hookup. I like an electric choke a lot more than the
old style, now that I've had a chance to try one. I think you'll be
pleased with the results.
- --
Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
inaccessible part of the vehicle."

grover ford-trucks.com


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:33:21 -0500
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Paint Question

Any of you know what the correct color Yellow is for my 239 Y-block, or
have an idea what current color is close? I've got it torn down, so I
might as well paint it....
- --
Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
innaccesible part of the vehicle."

grover ford-trucks.com

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:37:54 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders

Jason has some good points but...

An ARC welder can do just about anything you want, as long as youre working
on a mild steel project. Producing a pretty and high quality weld though,
takes some practice. If youre going to be patchin' holes in your favorite
fender, my suggestion is to practice on an old fender first.

A MIG unit is pretty much a brainless unit. Pull the trigger and drag the
arc. Once in a while, youll have to clean out the nozzle or maybe get some
wire unstuck.

A MIG unit can weld both steel and aluminum but...

Aluminum welding must be kept clean. That means the CO2/Argon gas mix wont
work because the CO2 breaks down in the arc, leaving carbon in your weld.
Carbon and aluminum dont mix. You have to use a completely inert gas such
as argon or helium. By the way, straight argon will work just fine for
welding mild steel. Your costs will just be higher.

Something else you should know, welding aluminum with MIG usually requires a
special spool attachment for your welding unit. Figure another $300 or so
added to the basic unit.

A TIG welder will do just about anything. I've even seen razor blades
welded to together. It also uses inert gases to shield the arc but you use
a technique similar to gas welding. The welding torch in one hand and your
filler rod in the other. You can't get a much prettier weld but it takes
hours and hours of practice to get good at it.

Dennis



- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Piccola
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders


>MIG (Metal Inert Gas) Welders are great for sheet metal welding. They use
a gas
>(Usually a C02/Argon mix) to shield the arc. This helps the flame burn
with less
>intensity for lighter gage metal.
>
>I would buy the Arc Welder for $100. You can purchase a product from the
>Eastwood company called "Stich Welder" It attaches to the end of your Arc
welder
>and produces half the heat as a standard arch welder. It costs around $60.
This
>will enable you to weld sheet metal with an Arc welder.
>
>Make sure that you get training on the Arc Welder.
>
>Jason
>55' F-250
>
>Tulio wrote:
>
>> I've seen and heard of MIG welders being UP THERE in the demigods of
>> tools to work with. I don't have any tools yet to do any metal work...
>> but would love to start some day soon. I have a neighbor that is
>> selling an 250vlt Arc Welder for $100.00 I will probably buy for those
>> heavy frame type jobs but, I am wondering of this MIG welder I hear so
>> much about. I have one of the toy welders that you use Oxigen and MAP
>> in small canisters that only last like 15 mins and pffft... not had
>> much luck with them.. I would like to build myself a solid bed lid for
>> my truck like they do at SNUGtops but they don't sell one for '60
>> trucks. Theirs are of fiberglass but... hey, metal is better, right!?
>> So.. I will perhaps try to build me a nice lid to cover my bed that I
>> can lock down and flow with the body style. hmm.. will have to be
>> light enough to pick up and yet sturdy enough to not just fold up and
>> bend out of shape the first time I open the lid! hehe.. some framing
>> will be required and light aluminum I suppose for the sheeting on top.
>> hmmm.. I can see I won't be using the ARC welder!!!
>>
>> > I also use the money I save
>> > on these projects to further 'invest' in some good tools, MIG welder,
>> > ect which in turn makes subsequent jobs easier and more fun.
>>
>> > Hope this helps,
>> > Eric 'Stitch'
>>
>> > ------------------------------
>> >
>> > Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:35:40 -0800
>> > From: "Jason Piccola"
>> > Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 2 responses to sheetmetal repairs
>> >
>> > Eric,
>> >
>> > I have just purchased a MIG conversion kit for my welder which really
help
>> > in welding sheet metal.
>>
>> --
>> Tulio Solorzano
>> '60 F-100 Custom Cab
>> '79 HD Sportster
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 06:22:39 -0000
From: "Ray Cardogno"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig vs Tig. Dig?

Been quietly reading the list every night. Hi Folks

I've used nothing but a tig welder for the past 10 years because that's all I own (I want to get a stick setup for structural steel type stuff). It seems to me that it's much easier to control the quality of the tig weld even as a beginner as opposed to the mig. Granted the mig will "weld" when you push the button but the mig unit wants to just keep feeding the filler weather your aim is precise or not or you need filler or not. With tig sometimes you don't even use filler - you just fuse the two pieces together - Even 2 razor blades. If you can weld at all with an oxy/acetylene torch, the tig unit if by far easier even the frist time. IMO Just my thoughts. Anyone agree/disagree?

Ray C
- --

On Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:37:54 Dennis R. Fischer wrote:
>Jason has some good points but...
>
>An ARC welder can do just about anything you want, as long as youre working
>on a mild steel project. Producing a pretty and high quality weld though,
>takes some practice. If youre going to be patchin' holes in your favorite
>fender, my suggestion is to practice on an old fender first.
>
>A MIG unit is pretty much a brainless unit. Pull the trigger and drag the
>arc. Once in a while, youll have to clean out the nozzle or maybe get some
>wire unstuck.
>
>A MIG unit can weld both steel and aluminum but...
>
>Aluminum welding must be kept clean. That means the CO2/Argon gas mix wont
>work because the CO2 breaks down in the arc, leaving carbon in your weld.
>Carbon and aluminum dont mix. You have to use a completely inert gas such
>as argon or helium. By the way, straight argon will work just fine for
>welding mild steel. Your costs will just be higher.
>
>Something else you should know, welding aluminum with MIG usually requires a
>special spool attachment for your welding unit. Figure another $300 or so
>added to the basic unit.
>
>A TIG welder will do just about anything. I've even seen razor blades
>welded to together. It also uses inert gases to shield the arc but you use
>a technique similar to gas welding. The welding torch in one hand and your
>filler rod in the other. You can't get a much prettier weld but it takes
>hours and hours of practice to get good at it.
>
>Dennis
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jason Piccola
>To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 1:29 PM
>Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Mig Welders
>
>
>>MIG (Metal Inert Gas) Welders are great for sheet metal welding. They use
>a gas
>>(Usually a C02/Argon mix) to shield the arc. This helps the flame burn
>with less
>>intensity for lighter gage metal.
>>
>>I would buy the Arc Welder for $100. You can purchase a product from the
>>Eastwood company called "Stich Welder" It attaches to the end of your Arc
>welder
>>and produces half the heat as a standard arch welder. It costs around $60.
>This
>>will enable you to weld sheet metal with an Arc welder.
>>
>>Make sure that you get training on the Arc Welder.
>>
>>Jason
>>55' F-250
>>
>>Tulio wrote:
>>
>>> I've seen and heard of MIG welders being UP THERE in the demigods of
>>> tools to work with. I don't have any tools yet to do any metal work...
>>> but would love to start some day soon. I have a neighbor that is
>>> selling an 250vlt Arc Welder for $100.00 I will probably buy for those
>>> heavy frame type jobs but, I am wondering of this MIG welder I hear so
>>> much about. I have one of the toy welders that you use Oxigen and MAP
>>> in small canisters that only last like 15 mins and pffft... not had
>>> much luck with them.. I would like to build myself a solid bed lid for
>>> my truck like they do at SNUGtops but they don't sell one for '60
>>> trucks. Theirs are of fiberglass but... hey, metal is better, right!?
>>> So.. I will perhaps try to build me a nice lid to cover my bed that I
>>> can lock down and flow with the body style. hmm.. will have to be
>>> light enough to pick up and yet sturdy enough to not just fold up and
>>> bend out of shape the first time I open the lid! hehe.. some framing
>>> will be required and light aluminum I suppose for the sheeting on top.
>>> hmmm.. I can see I won't be using the ARC welder!!!
>>>
>>> > I also use the money I save
>>> > on these projects to further 'invest' in some good tools, MIG welder,
>>> > ect which in turn makes subsequent jobs easier and more fun.
>>>
>>> > Hope this helps,
>>> > Eric 'Stitch'
>>>
>>> > ------------------------------
>>> >
>>> > Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:35:40 -0800
>>> > From: "Jason Piccola"
>>> > Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 2 responses to sheetmetal repairs
>>> >
>>> > Eric,
>>> >
>>> > I have just purchased a MIG conversion kit for my welder which really....

---

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