pre61-list-digest Monday, May 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 140



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - bolt patterns
FTE Pre61 - The pocket watch
Re: FTE Pre61 - The pocket watch
Re: FTE Pre61 - steering tightness

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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 07:46:20 -0400
From: "Sheldon Rier"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - bolt patterns

Hi all

does anyone know the bolt circle for an 85 lincoln disc brake rear end
are they 5 on 5.5" or ?????

Thanks!!!!
Sheldon
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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 12:40:58 -0400
From: Paul
Subject: FTE Pre61 - The pocket watch

I got my watch a few weeks ago, and also was surprised that their
research didn't include proofreading the literature.
At least they got it right on the watch.
I got another for my son for his birthday (today, the 16th). Gave it to
him after returning from the PF show.
The watch case is a nice touch, with the logo branded in.

Paul Gayda
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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 18:51:05 -0700
From: "Ray Cardogno"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - The pocket watch

could someone scan a pic of the watch, perhaps from the lierature for those of us who would love to see it :)

Ray C
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On Sun, 16 May 1999 12:40:58 Paul wrote:
>I got my watch a few weeks ago, and also was surprised that their
>research didn't include proofreading the literature.
>At least they got it right on the watch.
>I got another for my son for his birthday (today, the 16th). Gave it to
>him after returning from the PF show.
>The watch case is a nice touch, with the logo branded in.
>
>Paul Gayda
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>


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 22:23:11 EDT
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - steering tightness

In a message dated 5/15/1999 11:48:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
SJablecki aol.com writes:

> I have just had the steering box rebuilt on a 51 F1. Is there supposed to
> be any free play with the steering wheel. I get about 3-5 inches of turn
on
> the steering wheel before the wheels move. Is that normal or do I need an
> adjustment to the steering box? Thanks in advance for any info. Stan
>
Sounds like way too much freeplay. The rebuilder should have done
the adjustment, since it's not dependent on installation. Re adjustment, the
procedure in the 49-52 manual is to:
1. disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm.
2. Loosen the steering column tube to instrument panel bracket.
3. Back the side (sector) adjustment out (counterclockwise) to remove any
load. (That's "the bolt on the side of the gear box" you mentioned.)
4. Measure the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center of it's
rotation.
This is kinda the hard part. Ford must have had a spring scale, like a fish
scale, which read in ounces. 'The force needed to rotate the wheel at the
center of it's rotation' should be 1/4 to 3/4 pound on F1, F2, and F3, 1/2 to
1 lb on all others. I used a postal scale to measure the weight of some
sockets, then put them in a mesh bag my wife (used to) use for washing
'delicates,' then ran it's tie sting from the top of the steering wheel off
to the side, then over a socket extension straight down. I think this
translates into the force needed to turn the wheel. I also measured quarters
($0.25 pieces) to see what they weighed, if you don't have a scale. 1/4
pound (4 ounces) is ~16 quarters, 3/4 pound (12 ounces) is therefore ~48
quarters. You take it from there. If this measurement isn't right, you need
to change the stack of shims under the steering shaftat the bottom of the
gearbox. The shims are actually gaskets of varying thicknesses, and a
selection is available from most of our common suppliers. However, to
tighten the existing preload, you'll just be removing shims, so if you remove
the bottom plate carefully, you can reuse the ones you have. This is a messy
and iterative process. You need to have some gear lube in the box to
accurately measure the turning force, then you need to remove the bottom
plate to change shims, which dribbles gear lube all over.
Once this is in spec, center the wheel. Then, turn the 'sector shaft
thrust adjusting screw' (side adjuster) until 'all end play is removed from
the sector shaft.' Then the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center
of it's rotation should measure between 1 and 2 pounds on the F1, F2, and F3,
and 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 pounds on other models.
I have found that when the gears are too worn, tightening the sector shaft
adjusting screw too much jams the sector against the housing, which of course
makes the wheel harder to turn, but doesn't reduce the free play or have the
intended affect on steering accuracy. Then there's nothing left to do but
replace the steering shaft (worm) and sector, or the whole box. Other things
that wear out are the roller bearings on top and below the worm on the
steering shaft, the bushings on the outside of the sector, and the seal
on the outside of the sector. If you're going to the expense (considerable)
of
replacing the worm and sector, its probably worth replacing at least the
bearings and the seal. The bushings must require reaming to size, but I've
never messed with those, so can't give practical advice.
There you have it, almost straight from Ol' Henry. Simple, huh?
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End of pre61-list-digest V3 #140
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