pre61-list-digest Friday, May 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 130



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Steering adjustment & brakes
Re: FTE Pre61 - Steering adjustment (was also '& brakes')
FTE Pre61 - flip nose
FTE Pre61 - looking for truck
FTE Pre61 - Winford 54 gas tank

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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:09:09 -0500
From: "Robert Jones"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Steering adjustment & brakes

I have a '49 F-2 and have 2 questions.

1. The steering is sloppy. I have adjusted the bolt on the side of the gear
box and it didn't seem to help. Is there something else I can do or do I
have to get another steering box?

2. My master cylinder is leaking and would like to change it over to a two
reservoir unit. Anyone know what master cylinder I can use? What about a
proportionater valve system for the front weels?

Thanks,
Bob Jones
BobJ49F2

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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:17:25 EDT
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Steering adjustment (was also '& brakes')

In a message dated 5/6/1999 9:21:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bobj pmihwy.com
writes:

> 1. The steering is sloppy. I have adjusted the bolt on the side of the gear
> box and it didn't seem to help. Is there something else I can do or do I
> have to get another steering box?
The procedure in the 49-52 manual is to:
1. disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm.
2. Loosen the steering column tube to instrument panel bracket.
3. Back the side (sector) adjustment out (counterclockwise) to remove any
load. (That's "the bolt on the side of the gear box" you mentioned.)
4. Measure the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center of it's
rotation.
This is kinda the hard part. Ford must have had a spring scale, like a fish
scale, which read in ounces. 'The force needed to rotate the wheel at the
center of it's rotation' should be 1/4 to 3/4 pound on F1, F2, and F3, 1/2 to
1 lb on all others. I used a postal scale to measure the weight of some
sockets, then put them in a mesh bag my wife (used to) use for washing
'delicates,' then ran it's tie sting from the top of the steering wheel off
to the side, then over a socket extension straight down. I think this
translates into the force needed to turn the wheel. I also measured quarters
($0.25 pieces) to see what they weighed, if you don't have a scale. 1/4
pound (4 ounces) is ~16 quarters, 3/4 pound (12 ounces) is therefore ~48
quarters. You take it from there. If this measurement isn't right, you need
to change the stack of shims under the steering shaftat the bottom of the
gearbox. The shims are actually gaskets of varying thicknesses, and a
selection is available from most of our common suppliers. However, to
tighten the existing preload, you'll just be removing shims, so if you remove
the bottom plate carefully, you can reuse the ones you have. This is a messy
and iterative process. You need to have some gear lube in the box to
accurately measure the turning force, then you need to remove the bottom
plate to change shims, which dribbles gear lube all over.
Once this is in spec, center the wheel. Then, turn the 'sector shaft
thrust adjusting screw' (side adjuster) until 'all end play is removed from
the sector shaft.' Then the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center
of it's rotation should measure between 1 and 2 pounds on the F1, F2, and F3,
and 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 pounds on other models.
I have found that when the gears are too worn, tightening the sector shaft
adjusting screw too much jams the sector against the housing, which of course
makes the wheel harder to turn, but doesn't reduce the free play or have the
intended affect on steering accuracy. Then there's nothing left to do but
replace the steering shaft (worm) and sector, or the whole box. Other things
that wear out are the roller bearings on top and below the worm on the
steering shaft, the bushings on the outside of the sector, and the seal
on the outside of the sector. If you're going to the expense (considerable)
of
replacing the worm and sector, its probably worth replacing at least the
bearings and the seal. The bushings must require reaming to size, but I've
never messed with those, so can't give practical advice.
There you have it, almost straight from Ol' Henry. Simple, huh?
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 15:07:47 -0500
From: norm l lasnier
Subject: FTE Pre61 - flip nose

I have a 53 f100 and the front metal is swiss cheese. So I am thinking
of putting on a fiberglass, one piece flip nose. Problem is, all the
flip nose trucks I have seen do not have a front bumper. My state
requires front bumpers. Is there a reason for the "no bumper" look or is
it just because it looks better???
norm

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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 18:31:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott
Subject: FTE Pre61 - looking for truck

A friend is looking for a 40-52 Ford truck to restore. He lives in
Jackson MI, If anyone knows of a truck in this area then please e-mail
me off the list at wm_69 yahoo.com
Scott
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 22:24:12 EDT
From: WinfordR aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Winford 54 gas tank

Paul, the tank is from an '89 Ranger. I chose it because it had the internal
fuel pump, and also wanted to keep it Ford.

I did have to use the Ranger cross-member in order for the tank to fit snugly
between the drive shaft and frame.

Winford
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End of pre61-list-digest V3 #130
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