pre61-list-digest Friday, January 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 012



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Pre61 - Color of parking lights 56
Re: FTE Pre61 - 12 volt to 6 volt conversion
Re: FTE Pre61 - 6cyl electronic ignition
FTE Pre61 - Famous Trucks
FTE Pre61 - 351 cleveland oil pan
FTE Pre61 - fuel tank move
FTE Pre61 - Cleveland oil pan
FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 volt
Re: FTE Pre61 - Famous Trucks
FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 volt
FTE Pre61 - Towing
RE: FTE Pre61 - fuel tank move
FTE Pre61 - Re: Not your everyday request
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Not your everyday request
Re: FTE Pre61 - Color of parking lights 56

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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:40:04 EST
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Color of parking lights 56

In a message dated 1/14/1999 8:28:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
denanken oneworld.owt.com writes:

> Does anyone know if white or black (parking light frame) is correct?
I poked through "Ford Pickup Trucks, Development history and restoration
guide, 1948-1956" and on the 53-56 all I saw were white parking lights ('cept
for chrome, of course).
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:40:06 EST
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 12 volt to 6 volt conversion

In a message dated 1/14/1999 12:35:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
SJablecki aol.com writes:

> I have a F 1951 1 that has been converted to 12 volt (still pos. ground). If
I
> change it to neg. ground, will the gauges be affected. Does there have to
be
> a power reducer between the battery and the gauges: Stan
Switching to negative ground will only affect the ammeter, and that's easily
fixed by changing the direction of the wire that runs through the loop on the
back of the gauge.
If your gauges work now, there must be some sort of reducer already in there.
But go to Steve Delanty's page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/ then
specifically http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/6to12to6/ to check out a voltage
reducer/regulator.
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:44:48 EST
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 6cyl electronic ignition

In a message dated 1/13/1999 10:06:00 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rier golden.net writes:

> want to put an Electronic (pointless) ignition in my 56 223cid 6cyl - the
> Pertronix ones don't fit in these engines - does anyone else make something
> suitable??
>
Go see Steve Delanty's page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/tools/xistrign.htm
for an electronic point-type. Its a step in the right direction ...
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:06:02 -0800
From: "Abram H. Stauffer"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Famous Trucks

FTE,
Saw an ad in classifieds for a '57 F-100 that was used the in Forest
Gump movie. I don't remember that truck (will have to watch it again and
look for it). But I do remember a '48-52 F-1 chasing Forest down a dirt
road! Does any one know exactly what year that truck was?

Also, speaking of famous old Fords: What year was Fred Sanford's Junk
truck on "Sanford and Son"? Again, it was the '48-52 series but I don't
know for sure. Sanford is not on the reruns on my cable. Anyone know?
Not much else to write about here in the snowy North East!
Cheers, Abe
PS: Any one know of other Shows/Movies that used old Ford Pickups?
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 351 cleveland oil pan


I was lucky and found a rear sump pan for the 460 here... try Bishop
Engine parts in Houston 1-214-943-1104... cost me 35.00 including
shipping and it was clean and painted.. good quality stuff

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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - fuel tank move

Dennis,

you've already received 20 replies probably, I get the digest so I'm
about a day behind.

The fuel tank move is no problem.. go the the ford-truck home page and
look under member contributions... there is a set of indexes to custom
trucks and custom and classic truck that I put out there. there are
several articles on tanks. one uses an Isuzu trooper tank but it
requires a "c" section on the left frame rail. there are several
aftermarket tanks in the 350-500 dollar range with 20+ gal capacity

I personally used a mid 60's Mustang tank. (think the cap is 18 gal)
Made up a frame of 1" sq tubing. Moved the back crossmember back a
few inches and dropped it in... the filler is middle top back and
I'll use a cool cap filler neck in the bedwood. the sending unit hole
is front bottom middle and sending units are easy to find to fit
(plenty of Mustang aftermarket parts)... It took me about an hour to
do.

Hope this helps.. there's a pic of my "truck" on the ford truck home
page pictorial section. It's the '53 under construction and it shows
the cab on frame only the tank location is visible on that shot.


if you have any questions let me know... but check out the index for
other articles before you make up your mind..


Michelle (in our group) has done the Isuzu swap and can give you the
details on that.


culater

john

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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 06:27:53 PST
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Cleveland oil pan

David,
Found you an oil pan. Left info at your e mail address. Good luck with
project

John Harrison

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 06:52:44 PST
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 volt

Stan: There are 2 things you will have to do. When you change from pos
to neg ground you'll have to remove wire from inductive amp meter and
reverse the direction it passes through loop, otherwise gauge will read
backwards. On the other gauges remove pos wires to all 3 gauges.
You'll have to install a volttage regulator to keep gauges & sending
units from burning out.Nissan makes a regulator assy P/N 84866-51S05
which reduces voltage to 8 volts ( a 6 V system actulally operates at
7.5 to 8V when gen is charging). It runs about $25.00. There are only
3 wires ( 12V input, ground, & 8V output). Follow instructions in box
it's real easy. Connect a jumper to all 3 gauges and hook this to 8V
output of reg. That's all there is to it. You can use one of the 3
wires you removed from gauges for 12V input to reg. Be sure to tape
others so they don't short. I own an auto electric business and have
done many of these conversions and for my money this Nissan part is by
far the best quality reducer out there. Good luck

John
Harrison

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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:58:07 EST
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Famous Trucks

In a message dated 1/15/1999 9:14:58 AM Eastern Standard Time,
astauffe oak.kcsd.k12.pa.us writes:

> in Forest
> Gump movie. I don't remember that truck (will have to watch it again and
> look for it). But I do remember a '48-52 F-1 chasing Forest down a dirt
> road! Does any one know exactly what year that truck was?
Abe - that one had a '51 nose. No tellin' what year it really was, 'cause
the noses were easily swapped within the 48-52 range. If I recall it had the
big rear window (bigger than 48-50, not big as in 56 big window), so it was
either a 51 or 52.
>"Sanford and Son"? Again, it was the '48-52 series
That truck also had the 51-52 nose, but I don't remember the chrome
differences. 51 had ''FORD" on the hood nosepiece, 52 had F O R D on the
fixed panel below the hood. If V8, 51 had the V8 on the fixed panel, 52 had
V8 on the hood nosepiece. 51 had a single spear on the side of the hood in
the Five Star cabs, and a three piece spear in the Five Star Extra cabs. 52
had a single spear with a round F-1 emblem toward the front in Five Star cabs,
and a different three piece spear incorporating the round F-1 emblem on the
Five Star Extra cabs.
Of course the dash is completely different in the 51-52 from the 48-50,
which, along with the rear window, is the true determinant of the series.
51-52 dashes have two separate round gauges in front of the sterring wheel. I
know several 48-50 models with 51-52 noses one them, either because the owners
liked the 51-52 style better, or the newer nose was available after front-end
damage. Two guys, 12(?) bolts, couple of wires and hoses, and off comes the
whole front end.
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 07:08:16 PST
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 volt

Correction on Nissan P/N it should read 24866-51S05. List price is
about $32.

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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 07:16:42 PST
From: "John Harrison"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Towing

Howard,
Hoping to get it here a little sooner. Would like to take advantage of
nice weather before summer heat sets in. If I don't have any luck
getting it here sooner would love to take you up on offer. Will stay in
touch . Thanks

John Harrison

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:05:31 -0800
From: "O'Connell, Dennis M"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - fuel tank move

to all that responded;

Thanks for your help. After much looking I decided to go with a 20 gal
aluminum fuel cell from Summit. I have a two piece hard tonneau cover I
made, so I'll just mount it in the bed in the front section. When I show I
don't display that part anyway and I'll still have a little room for
luggage, tools, parts, etc...

Dennis

> ----------
> From: pre61-list ford-trucks.com[SMTP:pre61-list ford-trucks.com]
> Reply To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Friday, January 15, 1999 4:23 AM
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - fuel tank move
>
> Dennis,
>
> you've already received 20 replies probably, I get the digest so I'm
> about a day behind.
>
> The fuel tank move is no problem.. go the the ford-truck home page
> and
> look under member contributions... there is a set of indexes to
> custom
> trucks and custom and classic truck that I put out there. there are
> several articles on tanks. one uses an Isuzu trooper tank but it
> requires a "c" section on the left frame rail. there are several
> aftermarket tanks in the 350-500 dollar range with 20+ gal capacity
>
> I personally used a mid 60's Mustang tank. (think the cap is 18 gal)
> Made up a frame of 1" sq tubing. Moved the back crossmember back a
> few inches and dropped it in... the filler is middle top back and
> I'll use a cool cap filler neck in the bedwood. the sending unit
> hole
> is front bottom middle and sending units are easy to find to fit
> (plenty of Mustang aftermarket parts)... It took me about an hour to
>
> do.
>
> Hope this helps.. there's a pic of my "truck" on the ford truck home
> page pictorial section. It's the '53 under construction and it shows
>
> the cab on frame only the tank location is visible on that shot.
>
>
> if you have any questions let me know... but check out the index for
> other articles before you make up your mind..
>
>
> Michelle (in our group) has done the Isuzu swap and can give you the
> details on that.
>
>
> culater
>
> john
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:14:22 -0800
From: Karl Cunningham
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Not your everyday request

Paul --

Glad to hear you have a good therapist. I'm in Southern California, so I
can't help with an apprenticeship suggestion, but I have another one that
you might consider: find a GOOD class in bodywork.

I took one around 1980 for about 3 years from an old bodyman who started
during the depression. It was offered at a local high school during the
evenings for minimal cost, and I sure learned a lot. This guy could work
metal around like you wouldn't believe and he NEVER used filler. Each
student got a crumpled fender at the start, and for the entire first year,
you worked on only that one fender. We pulled, welded, hammered,
stretched, shrunk our fenders. At the end of the year, we each painted our
fender and they came out beautiful. It was slow, tedious work, but we
really learned.

You might consider looking around your area for a good class in body work.
Ask to go into the class and look around. If they are punching holes in
dents and slopping Bondo on 1/4" or more thick, excuse yourself and find
another class. If you see people cutting out rusted places, welding in
patches, hammering the welds to keep them from shrinking, and finishing the
job without filler, then this is the place for you. Ask if they can
reshape a fender to go over wider tires without using any filler. Ask to
see an example of that kind of job and feel the back side of the metal. It
should be a smooth as the front side, if it's really restoration-quality work.

My $.02

Karl Cunningham
karlc jps.net
1960 F250 factory 4x4


>I am a 50-year who is probably going thru a mid-life crisis.
>I have been a college professor since the age of 23 and am
>completely BURNED OUT! My love for automobiles, on the other
>hand, goes back to my pre-teen years and is stronger than ever.
>
>So what's the point? I am ready for a new life. I want to learn
>how to do ground up auto restoration and am hoping that someone
>out there can assist me in finding an apprenticeship which will
>enable me to fulfill my dream.

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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:14:13 -0800
From: "Jason Piccola"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Not your everyday request

Just to at to Karl's post. I started to get interested in old cars when I was In
college. I had no experience about auto restoration. I found an add in a
Pittsburgh, PA paper listing a Auto Restoration class that lasted for 6 weeks. It
was started by Bill Artsburger. He is a local resident of Pittsburgh (and has
owned 69 throughout his life which is why he is an export.) The class was short
and could not go into detail but is covered the basics of auto restoration. It
also touched on several major topics of auto restoration like media blasting,
painting, and body work.

A class like this will not be enough to complete a restoration and become an
expert. This class really helped me get started with my shop tool selection and
restoration of my 55' Ford Stake Body. I found that the only REAL way to learn is
to try something and practice.

Karl Cunningham wrote:

> Paul --
>
> Glad to hear you have a good therapist. I'm in Southern California, so I
> can't help with an apprenticeship suggestion, but I have another one that
> you might consider: find a GOOD class in bodywork.
>
> I took one around 1980 for about 3 years from an old bodyman who started
> during the depression. It was offered at a local high school during the
> evenings for minimal cost, and I sure learned a lot. This guy could work
> metal around like you wouldn't believe and he NEVER used filler. Each
> student got a crumpled fender at the start, and for the entire first year,
> you worked on only that one fender. We pulled, welded, hammered,
> stretched, shrunk our fenders. At the end of the year, we each painted our
> fender and they came out beautiful. It was slow, tedious work, but we
> really learned.
>
> You might consider looking around your area for a good class in body work.
> Ask to go into the class and look around. If they are punching holes in
> dents and slopping Bondo on 1/4" or more thick, excuse yourself and find
> another class. If you see people cutting out rusted places, welding in
> patches, hammering the welds to keep them from shrinking, and finishing the
> job without filler, then this is the place for you. Ask if they can
> reshape a fender to go over wider tires without using any filler. Ask to
> see an example of that kind of job and feel the back side of the metal. It
> should be a smooth as the front side, if it's really restoration-quality work.
>
> My $.02
>
> Karl Cunningham
> karlc jps.net
> 1960 F250 factory 4x4
>
> >I am a 50-year who is probably going thru a mid-life crisis.
> >I have been a college professor since the age of 23 and am
> >completely BURNED OUT! My love for automobiles, on the other
> >hand, goes back to my pre-teen years and is stronger than ever.
> >
> >So what's the point? I am ready for a new life. I want to learn
> >how to do ground up auto restoration and am hoping that someone
> >out there can assist me in finding an apprenticeship which will
> >enable me to fulfill my dream.
>
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Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:53:53 EST
From: WBATTE aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Color of parking lights 56

HELLO...... caught your post re: parking lights. I have a 56 w/37K orig.
miles. It has col-white on the front grill, rims and parking light body, hope
that helps. I as well put marine varnish on the bed, several coats. Also,....

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