pre61-list-digest Wednesday, April 14 1999 Volume 03 : Number 107



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - 49 doors
FTE Pre61 - steering wheel
RE: FTE Pre61 - 49 doors
Re: FTE Pre61 - 49 doors
Re: FTE Pre61 - gauges
FTE Pre61 - Re: 53 od trans
FTE Pre61 - 50 gauges
FTE Pre61 - Rear leaf springs

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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:47:06 -0400
From: "Sheldon Rier"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 49 doors

Hi all

I've got 2 1949 pickups - one is good & one is less than good

I took the doors off the good one (they fit perfect) to get repainted & put
the doors of the ratty one on it to keep rain etc out

the ratty truck doors on the good truck fit really bad to the point where
they won't even close - both trucks are very original & haven't been messed
around with

is this unusual?? there appears to be a small amount of adjustment at the
hinges but no where near enough to get these to fit right

Thanks!!
Sheldon Rier
Ontario, Canada

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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:13:00 -0700
From: joyce
Subject: FTE Pre61 - steering wheel

Glenn,

you can use a steering column from a 70-78 model ford car or truck.
They will all work fine, just look for one that is about the length that
you want. As far as the aod compared to the c6 or c4 shift pattern they
are all the same pattern just the letter on the indicator is different.
ex, R N D D 1 or R N D 2 1. Do not use a che*** column on a ford
transmission period... The ch*** column has a different gate pattern on
the indents inside the column, so where your transmission needs to be
for say example drive the lever on the column will not be locked in the
indent at the top of the column. Stay true blue they are quarantined to
work.

Ken L.
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:56:43 -0500
From: "Rich Garber"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - 49 doors

>
> the ratty truck doors on the good truck fit really bad to the point where
> they won't even close - both trucks are very original & haven't
> been messed
> around with
>
> is this unusual?? there appears to be a small amount of adjustment at the
> hinges but no where near enough to get these to fit right
>
> Sheldon,

I would imagine the procedure is the same for your truck as is mine.
According
to the 54-55 manual (your not going to like this part) The factory used a
jig
to bend the door. The manual states on page 370:

Two methods can be used to correct door misalignment. One is by adjusting
the
door hinges and the other by reshaping or changing the door contour. The
later
requires special tools designed specifically for this type of work.

It does have a picture of the door bending tool. Picture this:

1) Door on the truck, door open
2) A long bar with two big c type clamps, one on the bottom, one on the top.
3) A threaded rod in the middle, attached to the bar with a pad on the door
side.

The c type clamps are able to move up and down the bar, one picture shows
the
clamps on the very top, the other shows it at the bottom of the window
opening.


Rich
54 F100


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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:13:45 -0400
From: Fred g 454
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 49 doors

Rich,

I was going to let this one go, until I read about bending your doors. Since
the doors off of that truck fit yours perfectly, the doors you took off should
have the same characteristics. I would bet the problem lies with the hinge
adjustment. The doors have a lot of adjustment in them. In, out, forward and
backward as well as up and down. It takes a long time to get them right, but it
is possible.

The door bending jig is used when the top fits fine but the bottom is gapped,
or vice versa. If you have that problem... see a good body man.

Fred

Rich Garber wrote:

> >
> > the ratty truck doors on the good truck fit really bad to the point where
> > they won't even close - both trucks are very original & haven't
> > been messed
> > around with
> >
> > is this unusual?? there appears to be a small amount of adjustment at the
> > hinges but no where near enough to get these to fit right

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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:15:26 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - gauges

>How does the 50 gauge panel come out?
>Are there some type of fasteners on the edges that allow removal of the
>whole unit?

There are 3 nuts holding it on from the back. 1 is in the middle on top, 1
in the middle on the bottom, 1 by the speedometer. You have to be a bit of
a contortionist to get in a position where you can see them but they're
there. I think you need a 3/8 wrench to get them off. The cluster comes
right out the back provided you have all the wires detached.

~Dan

1950 F1 351C-2v--Awaiting 9" Rear
1992 Mustang --Angry at the $1.55 gas.

Visit my new improved 48-52 F1 Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~dwentz
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:50:28 EDT
From: RVoice2723 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: 53 od trans

Still looking for information on 1953 F100 stock three speed
overdrive transmissions.
Are they the same from 1953 to 1956, and will a car transmission fit
the above
years?

Thanks


Bob
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:07:47 -0500
From: Chandler
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 50 gauges

> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:05:39 -0400
> From: Ron Byron
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - gauges
>
> How does the 50 gauge panel come out?
> Are there some type of fasteners on the edges that allow removal of the
> whole unit?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ron
>
Ron, the gauges are held in by 3 (I think) brackets on the back. Go
under the dash and look for the brackets. They will have a stud sticking
through with a small nut on it. remove the nuts and pull the panel out
from the back of the dash. Good Luck.
Don
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Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:33:57 -0500
From: "Steve Hansen"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Rear leaf springs

Well, I finally got brave enough to rip the rear end out of the 50 F-1, in
preperation for the ford 9". I think all the auto repairs from friends are
finally paying off, for one friend who has a late 70's F-100 is giving me
the rear end.. (hey, anyone need almost brand new front rotors for the same
drop me a line) Anyway, the rear springs were in poor shape so it's off to
the Junk yard soon to find a donation.
For the reassembly I plan to put a reversed eye leaf spring (about 2"
drop) and remove several of the smaller springs any way, how many should I
remove to achieve a resonable lowered stance and a moderate ride? I already
have the front reversed eye installed, and can remove 2 of the smallest
springs, (from 9 to 7 springs) and on the rear I could remove 3 (from 10 to
7 springs). Does this sound reasonable? Any suggestions?
Now, all of the leaf spring bushings and pins are shot, that was
expected. But how much wear is acceptable on the shackles and the hangers
(the one that is rivited onto the frame? I could get away with not replacing
them, the new pins and bushings would get rid of most of the play, but there
would still be some space between the spring and the hanger for it to slide.
I did replace all the front hardware, but now am wondering if it was all
necessary. Comments?
And finally, I ground the front hangers off (Big Rivits!) and bolted the new
hanger to the frame. Would this be acceptable and what grade of bolts should
I use? The rear will be easier for I now own a cutting tourch!
This is to be the summer of the F-1, I have let it set for too many years,
and while I won't have it in driving condition this year, I hope to see
several major advancements, and by the time the normally seveare North
Dakota winters set in, I hope to have it on a trailer to be able to farm out
other advancements, ie windshields, tires, things that don't normally
require alot of personal work, just money.

Well, I'd appreciate anyone's advice who has done the spring work befor, I
won't be able to respond untill Sat. (and you think you have long work
days!)
Steve, 1950 F-1 (some assembly required)


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