pre61-list-digest Friday, January 1 1999 Volume 02 : Number 362



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE Pre61 - Wheels and Radio
Fw: FTE Pre61 - Frame Painting
FTE Pre61 - Re: Bumped into Bad Steer
FTE Pre61 - Re:
RE: FTE Pre61 - Restarting
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Bumped into Bad Steer

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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:59:44 -0500
From: "Howard Tarnoff"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - Wheels and Radio

Bill,

You can not find a reproduction radio but if you find the correct radio you
can have it converted by one of the guys that run ads in Hemmings. I think
Glen Marion has a complete working radio for your 56. He runs ads under
Truck Parts in Hemmings every month.

Howard

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-pre61-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-pre61-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Bill Casady
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 11:15 PM
To: pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Wheels and Radio


Looking for wheels and a radio for Chuck. Does anyone know the size
and type of wheel originally on my F250? Does the original wheel take a
moon cap? And where can I find a good reproduction radio with modern
accessories [FM etc.]?

Just Plain Bill
&
Chuck The 54 F250


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:07:59 -0500
From: "KENNETH D MARTY"
Subject: Fw: FTE Pre61 - Frame Painting

Glen: I also painted my frame with POR 15 and am very happy with it .

Ken 55 F100

>-----Original Message-----
>From: RJC988 aol.com
>To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 2:45 PM
>Subject: FTE Pre61 - Frame Painting
>
>
>>
>>>Fordians,
>>
>>I believe I posted this a few months ago (which should tell you how much I
>>have done to Soapy), but I don't remember getting much response. While I
>have
>>the body off of my frame, should I bother to prime and paint it? It seems
>to
>>have done well over the 40 years without any coating. I can't help
thinking
>>that painting will open a can of worms.
>
>



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:47:10 -0800
From: Karl Cunningham
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Bumped into Bad Steer

My '60 used to do this and it turned out to be a combination of things:

1. Loose steering gear. This was the biggest culprit. You can adjust it,
although on mine I had to replace the gears because they were too far gone.
To adjust it according to the book, you first take off the pitman arm.
Then as you turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock you may feel a
slight resistance when it is turned through the straight-ahead region.
This resistance is called the worm and sector preload. You adjust the gear
by first loosening the lock nut on the adjustment screw, which is on the
steering gear on the opposite side from the sector shaft (the shaft the
pitman arm connects to). Then turn the adjustment screw in small amounts
(clockwise makes it tighter) as you keep checking the preload. The proper
adjustment is when it takes about 1 pound of force to turn the steering
wheel past the stiffest part. When you've got it, carefully tighten the
lock nut while holding the screw to make sure it doesn't turn. It usually
will turn so you may have to do it a couple of times to get it right.
Don't get it too tight as this may chip the gears if you hit a big pothole.
And too loose will contribute to the problem you are having.

The steering gear is constructed so that the tightest part of the preload
is when the wheels are pointing straight ahead. If your truck has been in
a wreck and the front end is tweaked, straight ahead for the steering gear
may not be straight ahead for the truck. If this is the case, adjusting
the steering gear won't help since you'll be driving in a loose part of the
steering gear's range anyway.

2. Worn king pins and bushings or wheel bearings. Jack up the front
wheels and see if they are loose.

3. Other worn suspension parts such as tie-rod ends, spring bushings, etc.

If everything is tight, tires that are way out of balance and bad shocks
shouldn't cause the thing to go into the wild wobbling you are seeing.

If all else fails, install a steering dampener. Kits are available at most
larger auto parts stores. It's a small shock absorber that connects
between the axle and tie rod and dampenes any vibration. This may be a
good bet if you don't want to go through the other stuff, although it can
cover up other problems.

Hope this helps,

Karl Cunningham
karlc jps.net
1960 F250 factory 4x4 w/292


>Can anyone explain to me what might be the cause of my '60 F-100 going
>beserk in the front wheels by wobbling extremely to the point of almost
>loss of control after going over a bump in the road on the freeway?..
>
>Today I was driving along the freeway at 60mph and went over a bump and
>then as if it hit just right for the front wheels to go into a radical
>wobble dance that forced me to just brake as swiftly as possible and
>pull over ... it wobbled extremely until I finally stopped ... but,
>when I visually checked, everything seemed as usual. I then got off the
>freeway and drove home under 35mph without any reoccurances. Anyone
>experience this before?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:42:03 EST
From: OBKBEE aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re:

Glenn,
Nothing lasts forever. Since you've got the frame exposed you might as well
sandblast it. Down to the metal and give it a good coat of self-etching primer
and your final color. It'd be nice 40 more years.-Kent
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 15:18:32 PST
From: "Andy D"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - Restarting

Ethan
I checked on the front fenders off of the 56 F-600 today. They are in
real good shape from what I saw. They might need some work where they
bolt to the radiator air side deflectors. I did not get to look at that
too well because I got called to a fire. (I'm a volunteer fire fighter)
The Junk yard that has them is Babson Auto Salvage in Burgaw North
Carolina (910)259-4678. If they will not send them to you let me know
and I will see what I can do. (If you want them)



Andy
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/7464
icq # 13179729
70 F-100,360 2v (soon to be 4v),C/6
56 F-600,272 2v (soon to be factory 4v),4speed
56 F-100 Bigwindow,223 1v,3speed


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 08:23:34 -0000
From: "Ray Cardogno"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Bumped into Bad Steer

I still say a relatively inexpensive replacement of good quality shocks is *probably* all you need to do unless things are really worn. Been there a few times with no excessive wear on front end components. Does your front end bounce more than once after hitting a dip in the road? Another indicator of bad shocks.

Good info on the steering by the way Karl.
- --

On Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:47:10 Karl Cunningham wrote:
>My '60 used to do this and it turned out to be a combination of things:
>
>1. Loose steering gear. This was the biggest culprit. You can adjust it,
>although on mine I had to replace the gears because they were too far gone.
> To adjust it according to the book, you first take off the pitman arm.
>Then as you turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock you may feel a
>slight resistance when it is turned through the straight-ahead region.
>This resistance is called the worm and sector preload. You adjust the gear
>by first loosening the lock nut on the adjustment screw, which is on the
>steering gear on the opposite side from the sector shaft (the shaft the
>pitman arm connects to). Then turn the adjustment screw in small amounts
>(clockwise makes it tighter) as you keep checking the preload. The proper
>adjustment is when it takes about 1 pound of force to turn the steering
>wheel past the stiffest part. When you've got it, carefully tighten the
>lock nut while holding the screw to make sure it doesn't turn. It usually
>will turn so you may have to do it a couple of times to get it right.
>Don't get it too tight as this may chip the gears if you hit a big pothole.
> And too loose will contribute to the problem you are having.
>
>The steering gear is constructed so that the tightest part of the preload
>is when the wheels are pointing straight ahead. If your truck has been in
>a wreck and the front end is tweaked, straight ahead for the steering gear
>may not be straight ahead for the truck. If this is the case, adjusting
>the steering gear won't help since you'll be driving in a loose part of the
>steering gear's range anyway.
>
>2. Worn king pins and bushings or wheel bearings. Jack up the front
>wheels and see if they are loose.
>
>3. Other worn suspension parts such as tie-rod ends, spring bushings, etc.
>
>If everything is tight, tires that are way out of balance and bad shocks
>shouldn't cause the thing to go into the wild wobbling you are seeing.
>
>If all else fails, install a steering dampener. Kits are available at most
>larger auto parts stores. It's a small shock absorber that connects
>between the axle and tie rod and dampenes any vibration. This may be a
>good bet if you don't want to go through the other stuff, although it can
>cover up other problems.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Karl Cunningham
>karlc jps.net
>1960 F250 factory 4x4 w/292
>
>
>>Can anyone explain to me what might be the cause of my '60 F-100 going
>>beserk in the front wheels by wobbling extremely to the point of almost
>>loss of control after going over a bump in the road on the freeway?..
>>
>>Today I was driving along the freeway at 60mph and went over a bump and
>>then as if it hit just right for the front wheels to go into a radical
>>wobble dance that forced me to just brake as swiftly as possible and
>>pull over ... it wobbled extremely until I finally stopped ... but,
>>when I visually checked, everything seemed as usual. I then got off the
>>freeway and drove home under 35mph without any reoccurances. Anyone
>>experience this before?
>
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>


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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