pre61-list-digest Wednesday, November 18 1998 Volume 02 : Number 319



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1948 - 1948 truck and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - preserving old, used sheet metal
FTE Pre61 - 9" rear pinion
FTE Pre61 - Re:preserving old, used sheet metal
FTE Pre61 - pulling my old engine
FTE Pre61 - 53 F100
RE: FTE Pre61 - 53 F100
FTE Pre61 - Re:Heater Motor
Re: FTE Pre61 - 53 F100
FTE Pre61 - Paint Codes
FTE Pre61 - Panel Lowering
FTE Pre61 - Classic Trucks article

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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 10:05:13 -0500
From: Abe Stauffer
Subject: FTE Pre61 - preserving old, used sheet metal

Hey Everybody,
I need some advice. My '54 is in the body shop in pieces. What
should I do with the sheet metal pieces I am replacing. I am the type
that saves everything in case I need it later. Are my old rear fenders
worth saving? They weren't good enough for my restoration but, might
someone else be able to get some use out of them. Or with the supply of
NOS rear fenders now exhausted should I hang on to them in case someone
(God forbid ) hits me? Sometimes you hear of some guy doing something
radical and cutting them up or putting two together to make them wider,
etc. They are not smashed or crinkled, just rusted out at the front
(runningboard area) and rusted at the rear which would be hard to fix
due to the curve and the roll under. They are currently still attached
to the old bed sides which is definitely not salvagable. If they were
not attached they would be in my garage loft now. Should I tell the body
man to cut them off and further delay the work on my truck?
Also, what can I do with the old running boards that I replaced?
They are straight, not dented, just rusted through. Just too many PA
winters. I have them in my garage loft now. Is there a way that they be
fixed up for some one to use?
I just hate to see the scrap man smash this old sheet metal.
Thanks, Abe '54 F-100
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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 14:30:40 EST
From: MichellHC aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 9" rear pinion

Hi Don,

I replaced the pinion seal in my 9" rear and used the same crush washer that
was in it, and have had no problems what so ever. I used an impact wrench to
remove the pinion nut and to replace it with. I have known a lot of other
people to also use the original one with out any problems. When you are going
back with the impact wrench, just done compact the washer much more if any
than it already is.

Michelle
Chelle's 56 Hauler
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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 15:33:26 +0000
From: fredg454
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re:preserving old, used sheet metal

Hi Abe,
It's just a matter of opinion, but I'm like you I hate to throw anything
from my truck away. I'm using most of it... but the front gravel pan is
really beat up, far too much for me to straighten. I'm ordering a new
one. I'm keeping the old one too? I think I may take all the stuff I
have left over to Pigeon Forge next time I go. Or, to a swap meet. There
are a lot of guys who are better at fixing this stuff than I am. The
rear fenders are probably worth saving. They make patch panels for the
areas you described. Someone would love to have 'em. It would not take
too long to burn them off the old bed since your not saving it.

Fred
Hot Rod '56

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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 16:08:25 -0800
From: "Jason Piccola"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - pulling my old engine

It is me again. I have a a 55' F-250 Stake body truck. It currently
has a 6 that is not the original. ( I want to say a 223 CI but I am not
sure.) It looks close to pictures of an original. How would I know
what original engine was in the truck? Could I find this out on the
serial # or other codes listed on the glove box door?

The engine is in good shape and is clean. However it has allot of parts
that will need to be replaced in order to restore it to original
condition. (e.g. the oil filter, fuel line) I want to pull it and get
a 292 V8. I am pretty sure from talking to people that it would bolt up
to the existing transmission. Could I get much money for the existing
engine if I were to trade it in and what would a 292 cost? Also, where
would I find a 292 V8? I hear that they are hard to come by. My goal
is to keep the truck original with parts that were offered during 55.

55' ford
Jason Piccola
Pittsburgh, PA

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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 13:40:18 -0800
From: "Kenneth A. Craig"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 53 F100

I am looking at a 1953 F100 with a six cylinder engine and a 4 speed
transmission. It has the 50th Anniversary crest on the horn button. This
truck has been repainted the original light green. Everything on this truck
is original and appears to be in excellent condition. It has less than 60K
miles. The daughter of the original owner has the truck now and wants to
sell it. The truck looks in new condition except for some parking lot
scratches in the paint. I have not driven it yet. We put a charger on it
last night and I hope to drive it today.

What is a fair price?

Ken Craig 1959 F100 4X4 & 1964 T-Bird

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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 17:06:49 -0400
From: "Miguel..."
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - 53 F100

For a truck like that, if it is really that good, with low mileage as you
say, and if the frame (I think this is the most important part of it, and
also the cab) is solid, with no welding, you are looking maybe at about 4000
to 7000, if it is really good, then 7000, but if it is fair, then maybe
4500 to 5000.
Just buy if you really like it! and donīt worry if you then find a cheaper
truck.

- -----Mensaje original-----
De: Kenneth A. Craig
Para: Pre61List
Fecha: Tuesday 17 de November de 1998 5:54 PM
Asunto: FTE Pre61 - 53 F100


>I am looking at a 1953 F100 with a six cylinder engine and a 4 speed
>transmission. It has the 50th Anniversary crest on the horn button. This
>truck has been repainted the original light green. Everything on this
truck
>is original and appears to be in excellent condition. It has less than 60K
>miles. The daughter of the original owner has the truck now and wants to
>sell it. The truck looks in new condition except for some parking lot
>scratches in the paint. I have not driven it yet. We put a charger on it
>last night and I hope to drive it today.
>
>What is a fair price?
>
>Ken Craig 1959 F100 4X4 & 1964 T-Bird
>
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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 14:24:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re:Heater Motor

I agree with Steve Delahanty- about the resistor sizing, but you wil
need to size a resistor for each Motor Speed on your selector switch.
Both the resistor value and power rating(watts) will change depending
on the speed. The lowest value and highest power will be on the
highest speed.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V
>
> Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 16:20:20 -0800
> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Something up Steve Delanty's Alley...
>
> > I need to drop the voltage to my 6 volt heater motor from the
healthy
> >12 volts my alternator is putting out. That heater motor sound a lot
> >like an Electrolux running on 12 volts. I have heard of using an
> >ignition resistor as a voltage drop, but I wonder about this. Any
ideas?
> >--
> > Don Neighbors
> > '54 F250 Named Grover
>
> Hey Don,
> Yeah, you can use a resistor to drop the voltage, and *maybe* even
an
> ignition resistor...
>
> It would be helpful if you can measure the current the motor draws
when
> running on 6 volts so you can calculate the correct resistor.
Otherwise
> it's trial and error...
>
> Most ignition ballast resistors are in the 1 - 2 ohm range, so they
might
> be in the ball park for correct resistance. If you shop around you
may find
> ignition resistors that measure 1 ohm, 1.2 ohm, 1.5 ohm and maybe
even
> some 1.8 ohm or higher. 1.2 and 1.5 ohm are *very* common ignition
> ballast values .
> The problem is that they may not have a high enough wattage rating,
and
> may run very hot or burn up.
> You need to make sure that the resistors wattage rating is well above
> the highest wattage it will have to dissipate. If you use a resistor
> that is rated quite a lot higher than the wattage you need, it will
> be physically larger, but will run much cooler, which is a good
thing.
> A resistor run right near it's maximum rating can get spit-sizzling
hot,
> so be carefull how and where you mount it. If you can put it in the
blowers
> air stream that would be nice.
>
> A lot of ignition resistors are rated around 20-30 watts. Some may
be a
> little more, some less, but that's the general range.
>
> If your blower draws 6 amps, a 1 ohm resistor would drop exactly 6
volts
> and would dissipate 36 watts of heat. An ignition resitstor isn't
likely
> to handle that for very long before it emits smoke...
> You need at *least* a 40watt resistor for that, but I'd much prefer
> a 50 or 60 watt. That's getting to be a pretty big (physically)
resistor.
>
> If the blower draws 4 amps and you use a 1.5 ohm resistor, that would
> also drop exactly 6 volts, and the dissipated power would be 24
watts.
> If you shop around you might find a good ignition ballast resistor
that
> can cope with that pretty well. Take an ohmmeter and goto the
wrecking
> yard...
>
> Hooking your blower up to a 6v battery temporarily and measuring how
> many amps it draws is the best thing to do. Then you can select an
> appropriate resistor the first time, with no guess work. Otherwise
> you may burn up a resistor or 2 before you get the right one...
> Also go see the article I wrote called "6 to 12 to 6", which gives
> some math about how to select resistor values, and also some info
> on how to build solid state voltage regulators to get 6 volts to run
> accesories on vehicles that have been converted from 6 to 12 volts.
> Find it at:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/6to12to6/
>
=== message truncated ===
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 17:47:31 +0000
From: fredg454
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 53 F100

Ken,
The classic truck shop has a "how to buy a truck section" with a price
guide. Lots of good info on what to do. It's at:


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classic truckshop. com/

Fred
Hot Rod '56

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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 21:34:55 -0500
From: Paul
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Paint Codes

A quick reference for paint codes is at www.classic truckshop. com in the
"historic" section.
Paul G.

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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 23:41:17 -0500
From: Ruth Ann Clark
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Panel Lowering

I,m building a '56panel. I appreciated the info on the heater as I have a=

'54 parts truck that I have the heater from. I am also putting some
Canadian chrome on it and turning it into a Merc. I got the chrome up in=

Canada 24 years ago on a wrecked panel in a farmer's field. My panel has=
a
volare clip and I want to lower the back end too. With the stock rear
end, I thought of putting the springs under and longer shackles on revers=
ed
mounts to adust it back up again. Is this a good way to go? I am also
wanting to do it economically.
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Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 06:11:09 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Classic Trucks article

Forwarded for: "Abram H. Stauffer"

Hey Truckers,
I s*bscribe to "Custom Classic Trucks". Its OK. Once in a while I
look at "Classic Trucks" at the newstand and occaisionally buy it. I
understand there was an article about installing the boards in your bed
in the November issue of "Classic Trucks" magazine.I missed it. By the
time I got to the newstand or to Walmart, the Nov. issue was gone.
If any of you have that issue and wouldn't mind copying those
pages and mailing them to me, email me and I'll email you my snail mail
address. I think I got a good handle on installing the boards, but I
want all the tips I can get. I want to do this once and have no regrets.

Thanks for your help in advance and I appreciate the help!!!....

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