pre61-list-digest Wednesday, November 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 307



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Generator Bracket
FTE Pre61 - Re: Steering column
FTE Pre61 - Chrysler steering column info
FTE Pre61 - Re: Heater restoration
FTE Pre61 - Re: Steeringg Columns
FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 Volt system
Re: FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 Volt system
FTE Pre61 - Gas tanks
Re: FTE Pre61 - Polarity
Re: FTE Pre61 - Generator Bracket
Re: FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 Volt system

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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:40:03 -0500
From: "Howard Tarnoff"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Generator Bracket

I am in need of the Generator Mounting Bracket for my 55 Y-block. Can
anyone help?

Howard

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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:00:29 +0000
From: fredg454
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Steering column

Gary,
I went round and round with this Toyota Box installation. Following the
guidelines on the classic truck shop home page. I bought the adapter and
box from mid-fifties. Picked up a 32" column out of a 78 Olds (I wanted
the column shift and key on the col.). Mounting the box went OK with
some grinding on the mount to get it in the frame. I needed a universal
joint with toyota splines on one end and doubled D (GM type) connector
on the other end. Also from mid-fifties. When I finally got around to
putting it all together I found the shift arm at the end of the column
just inside the cab. Not good. After several calls and a whole day in
junkyards looking for a different column, I found I had the right one
but needed to modify the shift arm. Since you want a non shift column
you won't have the same problem. Guys that want to keep the key on the
dash use GM van columns. I guess the key is the 32" col. they don't make
a shorter one. The column will probably fit different in your '53 than
it does in my '56. Since the box site is determined by the frame
location, you have to do the angle adjustments through the "drop" height
mounting on the dash. Mine is about 3". I'm not totally happy with the
way mine ended up, but after looking at all my pictures from the
nationals I think it's as good as it gets. Even the originals were
pretty high and vertical compared to today's vehicles. Hope this is some
help. If I had it to do over I would take the $660. I'm into it and put
it towards a Mustang II set up.

Fred
Hot Rod '56

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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 11:14:27 -0800
From: "Paul G."
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Chrysler steering column info

I have an older Chrysler column to reinstall in a vehicle. The original
harness was cut off...there are only about 6 to 8 wires coming off (I am
away and can't go out and check exactly).
Question: Is there anyplace on internet which has detailed enough wiring
schematics on something like this so I can fiddle through it?
I realise I can buy a manual, etc., but, since I don't know the year
anyway, it might not be any good since I do know Chrysler used many
different wiring colors.
Thanks,
Paul G.
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:19:56 +0000
From: fredg454
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Heater restoration

I'm slowly getting my truck back together and with every turn I find
something else I had not thought of. This time its the heater/defroster.
I'm not even sure I need it at this point. If money wasn't an issue I
just pop for a vintage air unit...but it is. My truck will be a summer
driver, mostly driven to club cruises and cruise nights from May to
November. A little heat may be necessary?

I took it apart, it's in good condition. Even has the assembly date
still on it. November 22, 1955. Mostly flaking paint and some surface
rust around edges. It does not appear to ever been chrome? Galvanized
maybe? Black paint with a lighter color on the very front grill? I ran
water through the core and it doesn't appear to leak (till my wife
chased me away from her kitchen sink) but, is there a way to check it
under pressure? Also since everything is dis-assembled How do I check
the motor (two yellow looking leads and what appears to be a ground...
black). Can the metal parts be dipped in anything to remove the 42 years
of dirt and stuff from the inside of the unit? Or, should I just paint
he outside and call it done?

Thanks for the link to my page Ken... (Fred's Diner and Truck Stop) I'll
put a return link on next time I'm in there working on an update.

Fred
Hot rod '56

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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:06:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Steeringg Columns

I am in the process of installing a MustangII IFS in my '53. I bought
an Ididit Chrome noshift tilt column from Mid-Fifties Parts.
Mid-Fifties catalog lists all combinations of steering and column
setups. If you call them they will help you get the right parts. I
have heard of people using GM Van columns to do this if you don't have
the bucks for an Ididit. Mid-fifties can help there also. I don't have
their phone number now, if you E-me, I will send you their number.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V
danlee_58 yahoo.com

>
> Date: 02 Nov 1998 08:53:38 -0500
> From: "Franz, Gary"
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - RECOMMENDATIONS FOR A NON SHIFT TILT STEERING
COLUMN 53 FORD
>
> ABOUT TO GET BACK TO WORK ON MY '53 F-100 TOYOTA POWER STEERING
> CONVERSION. HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT INSTALLING A TILT COLUMN
IN PLACE
> OF THE STOCK STERING COLUMN. ANY ADVISE ON MAKE AND MODEL OF
COLUMN
> THAT WILL REQUIRE THE LEAST MODIFICATION TO TRUCK FOR
INSTALLATION.
>
>
> GARY

>
> Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:21:35 -0500
> From: "Sam Fugate"
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - steering
>
> I want to convert my original steering column on my 51 ford f1 to a
tilt
> column but keep my original steering box, has anyone tried this?
Also, how
> do you remove the knobs (lights, choke, throttle) from the shafts
they are
> attached to???
> Thanks
> Sam In Mt. Sterling, KY.
>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:14:43 EST
From: MichellHC aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 Volt system

Hi Jan,

I may be wading off into water over my head here, especially since I have
never converted a positive ground system to a negetave ground system.
Hopefully some one who has will wade in and give some solid information here.
Looking at the wiring diagram in the back of the 54-55 manual it appears that
you could leave most things grounded as it is now if you convert to a 12 V
negative ground system, especially if you use a GM type alternator with the
built in voltage regulator, that requires only a hot wire to be connected to.
That is how our 55 F-600 is set up and we are still using the original charge
meter and it works perfectly. Also the original gas guage was used too,
although only worked for about two years after this was done. As for the oil,
and water temp guages, we used Ford Motor Sport guages hung under the dash. We
used them for two reasons, #1 we were not sure if they would work properly on
12 volts and #2 we are using a mid seventies Ford 390 truck eng. instead of
the original Y block that was in it. If you wanted to convert to a 12 V Ford
alternator with external regulator, I would use the wiring diagram from the 56
manual. Other things that will have to be changed are your starter relay will
have to be replaced with a 12 volt unit as will all lights, voltage regulator,
electric wiper motor if you have one. Anything that is electrical and runs on
6 volts. Also you will have to put an ign. resister on the wire from your ign.
switch to your coil, if you don't do that it will burn up yuor points
prematurly. If you do this Jan let me know and i will send you a wiring
diagram so you will know exactly how to wire the resistor and still have a
full 12 Volts for starting your truck. As I have said above, perhaps someone
that has been through this conversion before can shead some more light on this
subject.

Michelle
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 19:39:06 EST
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 Volt system

Anyone contemplating converting from 6 to 12 should go check Steve
Delanty's page (active on 61-79 list) http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/ where
you'll find his 6V to 12V to 6V page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/6to12to6/
explanation and plans for resistors for gauges, etc.
As for the polarity, everything on an original 6V truck will work fine if
you switch polarity, 'cept the ammeter will read backwards, you need to re-
polarize the generator/regulator by common methods, (and you have to switch
coil wires?). To fix the ammeter just run the wire loop in the opposite
direction through the ammeter loop (or whatever its called).
I recall reading somewhere that there is an ignition spark advantage to
negative ground, but can't really speak to that. Steve, are you listening?
One disadvantage to switching polarity from positive ground is that you' ll
miss the fireworks display when you're getting a jump start off a negatively
grounded vehicle and the bumpers touch!
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:49:13 -0800
From: "Chris Johnson"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Gas tanks

I have a '55 f-100 that I use as a daily driver. It has a newer engine and
transmission but is mostly stock otherwise. Next on the list to do is front
suspension/steering and then finally a paint job. I also have a '55 f-250 I
use for parts and as I was looking at both of them the other day I started
thinking about pulling the gas tank off of the f-250 and mounting it outside
the frame rail on the passenger side of my f-100 as a 2nd tank. I know I
would have to remove the battery box and be creative on the plumbing on both
ends but it certainly seemed doable as I was contmplating it while laying on
my back. Has anyone out there tried this before or can anyone see any
problems I have missed?

C. Johnson
e-mail jchrisjohnson usa.net


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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 22:16:22 -0700
From: "Ray Cardogno"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Polarity


- --

On Tue, 3 Nov 1998 04:39:11 bill daly wrote:
>Well put, Ray--
>
>And thanks everyone for your responses.
>
>Actually, my question (badly framed) was how do I know
>for sure the nice man who owned the truck before me
>didn't change the polarity of the truck from neg ground
>to pos ground? You have to change grounds for example if you
>update to a 12V system, or am I dreaming?
>
>Jan

This would take us back to Michelle's suggestion - see what batery terminal is attached to the frame...

Bizzztt


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 22:25:09 -0700
From: "Ray Cardogno"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Generator Bracket


- --

On Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:40:03 Howard Tarnoff wrote:
>I am in need of the Generator Mounting Bracket for my 55 Y-block. Can
>anyone help?
>
>Howard
>
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>

Hey Howie,
You can come steal the one off my 54 (if it's the same) parts truck...

Ray C


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 22:52:27 -0700
From: "Ray Cardogno"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 6 to 12 Volt system


- --

On Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:14:43 MichellHC wrote:
>Hi Jan,
>
>I may be wading off into water over my head here, especially since I have
>never converted a positive ground system to a negetave ground system.
>Hopefully some one who has will wade in and give some solid information here.
>Looking at the wiring diagram in the back of the 54-55 manual it appears that
>you could leave most things grounded as it is now if you convert to a 12 V
>negative ground system, especially if you use a GM type alternator with the
>built in voltage regulator, that requires only a hot wire to be connected to.
>That is how our 55 F-600 is set up and we are still using the original charge
>meter and it works perfectly. Also the original gas guage was used too,
>although only worked for about two years after this was done. As for the oil,
>and water temp guages, we used Ford Motor Sport guages hung under the dash. We
>used them for two reasons, #1 we were not sure if they would work properly on
>12 volts and #2 we are using a mid seventies Ford 390 truck eng. instead of
>the original Y block that was in it. If you wanted to convert to a 12 V Ford
>alternator with external regulator, I would use the wiring diagram from the 56
>manual. Other things that will have to be changed are your starter relay will
>have to be replaced with a 12 volt unit as will all lights, voltage regulator,
>electric wiper motor if you have one. Anything that is electrical and runs on
>6 volts. Also you will have to put an ign. resister on the wire from your ign.
>switch to your coil, if you don't do that it will burn up yuor points
>prematurly. If you do this Jan let me know and i will send you a wiring
>diagram so you will know exactly how to wire the resistor and still have a
>full 12 Volts for starting your truck. As I have said above, perhaps someone
>that has been through this conversion before can shead some more light on this
>subject.
>
>Michelle
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>
I have done this to my 55 F-500. The 3 problems I had are:
1 - My headlight switch gauge dimming variable resistor became a toaster.
2 - My Amp meter read backwards
3 - My heater motor sounds like it will spin into orbit. (luckily my wipers are vacuum - remember that thread?)

My fixes were extremely easy for the above referenced probli:
1 - The toaster was of the short duty cycle. My battery did not understand this concept and it burned clean thru.
2 - Snip the wire that goes through the inductance loop behind the gauge, slip it out and re-insert it going in the oposite direction and butt splice it back together.
3 - Wear long underwear. Those big fat resistors I got a few years ago are still sitting in my garage. My baby is forbidden from snow/salt covered roads anyhow.

All I can say is that the 12-volts going to that old 6-volt starter for the past (ugh) 10 years has remarkably improved starting her up. And the 1-wire gm alternator got rid of a cronic regulator/generator-brush dead battery headache. Oh, did I mention my 400 watt stereo system? In comparison, who cares about reading gauges at night, and who would want to irritate her tender skin with winter road sludge anyways

Sorry folks....

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