pre61-list-digest Monday, November 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 305



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: Web site updates
FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: Rejected postings
FTE Pre61 - Removal of bed
FTE Pre61 - fiberglass repair kits
FTE Pre61 - TEST - Disregard this
FTE Pre61 - LARGE BACK WINDOW
Re: FTE Pre61 - HVLP Painting Guns
FTE Pre61 - Polarity
FTE Pre61 - Fried charging system
FTE Pre61 - Polarity test
FTE Pre61 - Re: Pickup beds
FTE Pre61 - Re: Checking Polarity

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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 11:57:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: Web site updates

Many new links have been added to the web site. Not
all the submitted links have been added yet. If you
did not receive an email stating that its been added,
then I haven't gotten to it yet.

Additionally, 36 trucks have been added to the pictorial,
bringing the total number of trucks featured to 282.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 11:57:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: Rejected postings

Due to an error on my part when updating our list server
filters, our list server incorrectly rejected several
emails from users of Microsoft email products. If you
use Microsoft email software and you posting did not
show up, try again as it should work now.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 13:16:27 -0800
From: "Jacques and Barbara DeKalb"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Removal of bed

IMO an easy and safe way to remove the bed or cab is to lift them off after
the bolts are removed with a pair of free-standing manual camper jacks. I
found an inexpensive set that need repair and modified them slightly to work
either with the angle-iron brackets they come with or with padded hooks that
slip into the fender openings. One person can lift these off by alternately
raising each side until the chassis can be rolled out from underneath. Then
set the bed or cab on saw horses or a dollie. I move my crew cabs off the
frame this way. Be sure to watch the fron to back balance before you get
too far up!


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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:30:17 EST
From: PWPTRUCK1 aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - fiberglass repair kits

Hiya Folks! I am trying to decide on a repair method for repairing a small
rust out at the lower back cab corner and another small rustout at the door
pillar. I have not heard of anyone using fiberglass mat and jel to do this.
All I have heard of people doing to thier truck is to replace the panel itself
with a welder. My rust damage is very minimal and would rather deal with the
fiberglass kit. I have done rustout repair on other vehicles with the glass,
with very sastisfying results. It is a lot faster, cost is minimal because no
special tools are requiered, the same place will never rust again, and it is
actually kinda fun to work with. I wondered if anyone else has used this stuff
on thier classic, or for some reason that it can't be used.
Paul
'52 F-3
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:15:52 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - TEST - Disregard this

Just getting my email client set up. Disregard this message.



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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:57:33 -0600
From: "Byron Rosbrugh"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - LARGE BACK WINDOW

Does anyone know if any F-100 large back windows later than the 1956 will
substitute for the 1956? Just wondering if the 57, 58, 59 large back
windows are the same size or if that part of the rear cab panel could be
mated with the 1956 to create a large back window pickup. Would appreciate
any comments, I can't find any specs which assist. Thanks in advance,
Byron 1956 F-100Custom Cab



B. E.Rosbrugh
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 18:40:51 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - HVLP Painting Guns

I'm running a 5.5 horse with a 22 gallon tank. Specs are:

8.6 scfm 40 psi
6.4 scfm 90 psi
130 max psi

A HVLP manufacture told me I should be able to handle everything except
latex. Since I haven't purchased yet, I can't confirm what he told me.

>From what I've read, Don is right about the scfm being the most important
spec. As you you are probably aware, HVLP means high volume, low pressure.
The scfm value is your volume rating. The psi is your pressure rating. The
scfm value is somewhat dependant on the tank size. Increasing the size of
your tank will increase the scfm value.

Don, feel free to correct me here if I have some of my facts wrong.

Dennis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Lewis
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, October 31, 1998 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - HVLP Painting Guns


>There is a very good article by Larry Lytles in the September 1998 issue of
>Classic Auto Restorer (CAR) titled 'Working With an HVLP Gun' from which I
>quote the following: "...the reason I mentioned nozzle air pressure in the
>first place was to let you know many do-it-yourselfers have lacked severly
>when
>it comes to having an air compressor capable of handling many HVLP guns. My
>paint supplier tells me one of the toughest problems he faces is having to
>tell
>a shop they lack the air volume to support the use of an HVLP. Which means
>most
>do-it-yourselfers don't even come close (despite the fact they can crank
out
>100 PSI air flow at the compressor)." The author goes on to describe in
terms
>of SCFM (Standard Cubic Feet Per Minute why there's a problem. Fortunately,
he
>offers a couple of solutions with the newest guns from Binks and DeVilbiss.
>You
>can reach CAR at 1-800-365-4421 for subscriptions or order article reprints
>from Publishers Custom Reprints at 1-800-256-8271.
>
>At 09:06 AM 10/29/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>I am looking to upgrade my painting components. I believe HVLP is the
>>correct route, but I wonder if I should look at the self contained
>>systems or just purchase an HVLP paint gun and use my current
>>compressor.
>>
>>I am finishing my first restoration and have a couple of others waiting
>>so I anticipate using this tool for many years to come, but I will not
>>be using it everyday. Any thooughts ?
>>
>>Jeff
>>
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>>
>Don Lewis
>'46 1/2 ton
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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 21:46:37 EST
From: MichellHC aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Polarity

Hi Jan, its so good to see you on the board again. To check your polarity,
check your battery, it will have a - (minus) and a + (positive) post, it
should be marked as such, the cable that is grounded to the frame is the -
cable and should be attached to the - (minus) side of the battery. The plus
cable goes to the starter relay on hte fire wall.

Michelle
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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 21:56:41 -0800
From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Fried charging system

Darcy Davis writes:
"firewall when I sandblasted the cab. After putting the truck back
together and running it, a mechanic friend mentioned that I needed to
repolarize the field by short circuiting the 'bat' and 'armature'
terminals at the regulator "flashing?". The electrical shops in Calgary
confirmed this, but my manual makes no mention of this. I tried it. "

Darcy,
When you polarize a generator, you MUST disconnect the regulator from the
circuit, or at least disconnect the wire going to the field terminal of the
generator. Failure to disconnect it will weld the voltage sensing contacts
inside it and that shorts the field to ground inside the regulator. The
generator is not damaged in this process but the regulator is toast.
Remove the regulator from the vehicle, polarize the generator, then install
a new regulator. To polarize the generator just briefly touch a wire from
the negative terminal of the battery (assuming you still have a positive
ground vehicle) to the field terminal of the generator (with the regulator
disconnected of course). The field terminal connects to an electromagnet
inside the generator that replaces the permanent magnet you are familiar
with. Using an electromagnet in the generator allows the regulator to
control the generator output by varying the current in the electromagnet.
Regards,
Roger Meier

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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 22:04:05 -0800
From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Polarity test

Michelle writes:
"Hi Jan, its so good to see you on the board again. To check your polarity,
check your battery, it will have a - (minus) and a + (positive) post, it
should be marked as such, the cable that is grounded to the frame is the -
cable and should be attached to the - (minus) side of the battery. The plus
cable goes to the starter relay on hte fire wall."

Michelle,
Rethink this please, all Fords up to and including 1954 were built as a
positive ground system. You have explained how a negative ground system is
connected and those did not come along untill 1955.
Regards,
Roger Meier

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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:21:36 EST
From: Brechtjohn aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Pickup beds

I have a 1940 3/4 tonner Express Pickup. I know that Ford lined their 1/2
tonner beds with metal. However the 3/4 and 1 tonner trucks didn't have the
mettal lining. Ford painted the wood the color of the truck, on the heavier
models. This practice I believe dates back to 1939. How much beyond that
time I don't know.
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 00:18:20 EST
From: Brechtjohn aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Checking Polarity

You asked "How does one check the polarity?" One way to check the polarity in
your system is remove the spark plug wire and hold it away from your spark
plug about 1/8". Take a graphite pencil and hold the sharpen point in the
path of the spark. If your polarity is correct, there will be a slight flare
in the spark between the pencil point and spark plug. If it is reversed, the
flare will be between the graphite point and the spark plug wire. It works.
Be certain, however, that you're not grounding yourself and holding the pencil
so the spark will travel up the graphite and up your arm. That will really
wake you up.....


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