pre61-list-digest Saturday, October 31 1998 Volume 02 : Number 303



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - FTE Core - Sticky Regulator, Etc.
FTE Pre61 - polarity?
Re: FTE Pre61 - polarity?
FTE Pre61 - body filler
RE: FTE Pre61 - body filler
FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: New offroad truck list
FTE Pre61 - Removing body: learning experience
FTE Pre61 - Re: Need grille for 59 f100
Re: FTE Pre61 - 52 Cab panel replacement
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Need grille for 59 f100

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Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 06:45:43 -0500
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE Pre61 - FTE Core - Sticky Regulator, Etc.

- --
Just Plain Bill said: "Is there something I can do to salvage the
generator/regulator? Or would I be better off replacing the generator
with an alternator? If so what type of alternator would be best. Any
help would be appreciated."
Bill, I guess I have been lucky and I have never had trouble
with points sticking in one of those voltage regulators. However, the
battery DID get fried because the guy I bought Grover from had hooked
the battery up backwards, i.e. negative ground instead of positive
ground. I'm guessing you have already checked for correct polarity.
I finally replaced the 6 volt generator with a Ford alternator I
had in my spare parts pile. The one I used was out of a '65 Mercury
Comet, but it's the basic alternator Ford used up until just a few years
ago, albeit with different connectors. One of my Chilton's manuals had a
schematic for the alternator wiring, and I got the proper connector for
the voltage regulator at the local parts house. Steve Delanty has a
little article about putting in the resistors and reversing the polarity
on the gauges, I believe.
I was able to modify the existing generator mount to hang the
alternator by simply measuring and drilling a hole in the right place in
the old mount. I used lots of washers to shim up the lower half of the
mount, though I plan to make or have a trained professional make a
proper spacer at some time in the future. Total cost involved was less
than $20, but that's because I had the alternator and a 12 volt battery
on hand.


Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
innaccesible part of the vehicle."

grover ford-trucks.com


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:57:57 -0500
From: "bill daly"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - polarity?

um...how does one check the polarity?

sigh.

Neophyte '53 F-250 wanna-be mechanic,
Jan McLaughlin

- -----Original Message-----
From: The Neighbors
To: FTE Pre-61 List
Date: Friday, October 30, 1998 7:00 AM
Subject: FTE Pre61 - FTE Core - Sticky Regulator, Etc.


>--
> Just Plain Bill said: "Is there something I can do to salvage the
>generator/regulator? Or would I be better off replacing the generator
>with an alternator? If so what type of alternator would be best. Any
>help would be appreciated."
> Bill, I guess I have been lucky and I have never had trouble
>with points sticking in one of those voltage regulators. However, the
>battery DID get fried because the guy I bought Grover from had hooked
>the battery up backwards, i.e. negative ground instead of positive
>ground. I'm guessing you have already checked for correct polarity.
> I finally replaced the 6 volt generator with a Ford alternator I
>had in my spare parts pile. The one I used was out of a '65 Mercury
>Comet, but it's the basic alternator Ford used up until just a few years
>ago, albeit with different connectors. One of my Chilton's manuals had a
>schematic for the alternator wiring, and I got the proper connector for
>the voltage regulator at the local parts house. Steve Delanty has a
>little article about putting in the resistors and reversing the polarity
>on the gauges, I believe.
> I was able to modify the existing generator mount to hang the
>alternator by simply measuring and drilling a hole in the right place in
>the old mount. I used lots of washers to shim up the lower half of the
>mount, though I plan to make or have a trained professional make a
>proper spacer at some time in the future. Total cost involved was less
>than $20, but that's because I had the alternator and a 12 volt battery
>on hand.
>
>
> Don Neighbors
> '54 F250 Named Grover
>
> "Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
> innaccesible part of the vehicle."
>
> grover ford-trucks.com
>
>
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>



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 09:41:49 -0500
From: 47Fred
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - polarity?

bill daly wrote:

> um...how does one check the polarity?

On my '57 Ford car with the 292 Y block, I installed a mid '70's Ford
alternator easy as apple pie. It bolted onto the original generator mount,
using a few spacers made from steel pipe nipples cut to size. I looked thru
my scrap piles until I found a more or less proper adjusting arm, and bolted
it on. The regulator fit real nice in the stock location behind the radiator
support, and I reused the original field, arm and ground wires to hook it up.
The only reason I changed it was because I didn't want to buy a new regulator
for the stocker, and I had a couple of old alternators. You can get the
appropriate alternator regulator plug from a junkyard or just use stake-on
connectors, the plug is better 'cause later you won't screw up if you change
the regulator.

You check the polarity by examining the battery connections. On a 6 Volt
system the larger battery post is (+) and should be connected to the chassis
ground. Some folks forget this 'cause 12 volts have been (-) ground since
before they were born, and will install a 6 volt with (-) connected to the
ground. The starter and generator don't really care about polarity. The
starter works both ways, and the generator can be reverse polarized by
"flashing" the field, gauges and accessories like radios, get kind of upset.

47Fred


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 10:54:27 -0700 (MST)
From: Darcy Lee Davis
Subject: FTE Pre61 - body filler

Being that I have alot of body work to do on my truck, and little money
and experiance, I was doing some research and found an interesting
thing. The used to use a process called lead-tinning, which basically uses
solder as a filler rather than Bondo. I have an aversion to using Bondo on
my true love, so this seemed like a good idea. Besides, when I was doing
some repairs on the floor (using oxy-acetylene) I found that some previous
owner had used solder as a repair. It was a perfect job too, untill it
started to melt under the torch and drip through the paint. NOTE: This
might be something to keep an eye out for before you put heat to any body
panels. You wouldn't want to make more work for yourself. My question is,
is solder still used as a filler? How does it compare to todays choices of
Bondo? Does anybody know where I should start looking for a "paddle" and
solder? And...What composition of solder should I be using? TIA

Paul,
I can't give you much help on the actual procedure required to
replace those panels, but I can tell you some things I've learned on this
first project of mine.
1) You can't become a professional bodyworker on your
first panel, so find something to practice on.
2) MIG is the way to go to weld in panels. However, they
are more limited than my choice, a set of Oxy-acetylene torches. (learn to
control the heat though.
3) Welding places that have been rust pitted is almost
hopeless. It takes much finesse.
4) Plan on making all points on the replacement panel even
or behind where the original surface was. Some altering of the panel can
be done using a hammer and dolly after the surface is in place, but if
your welds etc. are too high, it is difficult to get a perfect job. As a
beginner, you probably will have to use some filler, so by putting the
welds behind the surface, you leave room to use filler on.

I have also heard of a product for replacing panels called
'Fusion' by Lord technologies. This eliminates the heat problem, and
welding entirely. I have no experiance with this, in fact I have never
seen the product. Does anybody else know something about this?

Finally, As I am also a begginner, everything I say is from personal
experiance. It is deffinatly not the end-all of info sources. If you
differ with something I say, please post it for me and others to learn by.
Darcy Davis

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 10:52:01 -0800
From: "O'Connell, Dennis M"
Subject: RE: FTE Pre61 - body filler

Paul/Darcy

The Eastwood company has a full line of body repair products for using body
solder. They sell the paddles, wax, solder and even a How to video. They
also carry a kit to patch panels without welding (glue). You can request a
catalog through the internet at their web site www.eastwoodco.com.

Dennis
DMO1 55ford

> ----------
> From: pre61-list ford-trucks.com[SMTP:pre61-list ford-trucks.com]
> Reply To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Friday, October 30, 1998 9:54 AM
> To: fordtrucks
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - body filler
>
>
> Being that I have alot of body work to do on my truck, and little money
> and experiance, I was doing some research and found an interesting
> thing. The used to use a process called lead-tinning, which basically uses
> solder as a filler rather than Bondo. I have an aversion to using Bondo on
> my true love, so this seemed like a good idea. Besides, when I was doing
> some repairs on the floor (using oxy-acetylene) I found that some previous
> owner had used solder as a repair. It was a perfect job too, untill it
> started to melt under the torch and drip through the paint. NOTE: This
> might be something to keep an eye out for before you put heat to any body
> panels. You wouldn't want to make more work for yourself. My question is,
> is solder still used as a filler? How does it compare to todays choices of
> Bondo? Does anybody know where I should start looking for a "paddle" and
> solder? And...What composition of solder should I be using? TIA
>
> Paul,
> I can't give you much help on the actual procedure required to
> replace those panels, but I can tell you some things I've learned on this
> first project of mine.
> 1) You can't become a professional bodyworker on your
> first panel, so find something to practice on.
> 2) MIG is the way to go to weld in panels. However, they
> are more limited than my choice, a set of Oxy-acetylene torches. (learn to
> control the heat though.
> 3) Welding places that have been rust pitted is almost
> hopeless. It takes much finesse.
> 4) Plan on making all points on the replacement panel even
> or behind where the original surface was. Some altering of the panel can
> be done using a hammer and dolly after the surface is in place, but if
> your welds etc. are too high, it is difficult to get a perfect job. As a
> beginner, you probably will have to use some filler, so by putting the
> welds behind the surface, you leave room to use filler on.
>
> I have also heard of a product for replacing panels called
> 'Fusion' by Lord technologies. This eliminates the heat problem, and
> welding entirely. I have no experiance with this, in fact I have never
> seen the product. Does anybody else know something about this?
>
> Finally, As I am also a begginner, everything I say is from personal
> experiance. It is deffinatly not the end-all of info sources. If you
> differ with something I say, please post it for me and others to learn by.
>
> Darcy Davis
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 13:52:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: New offroad truck list

You asked for it, you got. The vote to add a off-road Ford
truck list won by a landslide. This list is now active.

This list is open to all Ford truck/van off-roading and 4x4
related topics. All years and models are allowed.

To s*bscribe send email to majordomo ford-trucks.com with
one of the following in the body of the message:

s*bscribe offroad-list

or

s*bscribe offroad-list-digest

(Replace the * with u)

The web site form does not have a s*bscribe/uns*bscribe
form on it yet. You can expect to see this form updated
this weekend.

Here we grow again!

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 17:15:00 -0500
From: Paul
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Removing body: learning experience

I am in the process of switching bodies/frames on a pickup to a panel in
my driveway. I have learned the following "stuff" and, while I realize
this is probably second nature to some of you experienced types, I
thought by presenting what I learned here it might be of help to
another, especially with cold weather coming being the time for this
stuff. The project is about 2/3 complete as of today, and so far this
is what I know now which I didn't know 2 weeks ago:

One man can remove a panel body from the frame rather easily by raising
the body a few inches and not moving it for the duration, and rolling
the frame out from under it. Remove the rear wheels and lower the
pumpkin onto a floor jack or equal. There are a few problems due to
clearances with the running board supports, etc. but patience works
wonders.

Two guys can easily remove a standard pickup bed/wood floor after
removing the fenders.

Three over 200#ers and one regular unit can carry the pickup cab
straight up and off the backside after only stopping once for a new
grip. A pair of sawhorses will support the pickup cab.

The rear springs from a panel must have extra leaves or something,
because with the pickup body/bed on it's frame, it really looks COOL,
with the bed at just the right angle, and the whole thing sitting up,
the front being stock height and the rear even higher.

Yes you have to switch the gas tanks; different locations.

A pickup with dual exhausts is not what you want to see if you're going
to have to mount the panel gas tank on the inside of the frame...guess
what is in the way.

The steering column/box comes out in about 15 minutes, much easier than
I thought or heard.

Act like Cain in Kung Fu, buy and use a small high speed Mikita type
grinder/cutoff wheels...if in doubt, cut the bolt.

Sacremento Vintage gets parts from Cal to Virginia in 2 or 3 days
everytime.

Keeping the faith,
Paul Gayda





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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 18:50:20 -0500 (EST)
From: jmi ipof.fla.net (JMI)
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Need grille for 59 f100

Hello,

I need a grille front for a 59 Ford 100, does anyone know
of a source or where I can get this grille for my truck. Thanks Jane
"Truck Girl"

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 20:35:59 EST
From: Flathead52 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - 52 Cab panel replacement

Hello

What plans do you have for your old cab? I could use some parts of it. I
plan to chop the top on my '52, and need some sections of the roof of the cab
,and some sections of both doors. I'm located in Indiana. If you think you
might be able to help please let me know.

Tom Grover
Flathead52 aol.com
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 21:29:05 -0600
From: "Byron Rosbrugh"
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Need grille for 59 f100

Describe the front grill for the 59 F100. Does it have twin headlights?
Have knowledge of one such F100 with large back window, body looks pretty
complete, is available, but not sure of the year. Give a detailed
description and I will go take a look. Byron in KC

- ----------
> From: JMI
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Need grille for 59 f100
> Date: Friday, October 30, 1998 5:50 PM
>
> Hello,
>
> I need a grille front for a 59 Ford 100, does anyone know....


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