pre61-list-digest Tuesday, August 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 236



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Pre61 - Spring pin removal
FTE Pre61 - Ballast resistor?
FTE Pre61 - '61 F100 Cowl Question
FTE Pre61 - Rebuilding ????
FTE Pre61 - Ballast Resistor
FTE Pre61 - Re: frame coating

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 08:31:30 -0500
From: Rich Garber
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Spring pin removal

>springs myself. I have a '56 F-100. The hanger pins came out without
>difficulty. The zerks likewise. but I'm at a loss on how to drive these
>pins out. There seems to be an access hole in the frame behind the pins,
>but I've tried a little gentle persuasion without luck and I don't want

Fred,

It will take alot more than gentle persuasion. I used a 7/16" bolt and
a 20lb sledge. Once you get them to move, they come out easy. You use
that access hole and drive them out from behind.


Rich
54 F100
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:56:53 -0700
From: eric
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Ballast resistor?

Hello,

My truck's wiring is almost all stock with the exception of the
'hacker's special' right around the coil and selenoid area.

My stock coil gets really hot after the engines been cruising, but
luckily hasn't been hot enough to fail - yet! The fact that the coil
gets pretty warm really doesn's surprise me since it's mounted in the
stock location that is directly connected to the intake manifold...
which too gets hot.

I'm told by some that the truck is missing it's ballast resistor, hence
the heatup of the coil, and a couple of other folks say 'no', and still
others say the resistor's in the wiring..... please put this issue to
rest for me... if my truck needs the resistor then please tell me where
it goes and what it looks like on a '59 292ci Y-block. Any other info
would help. Thanks a bunch.

Stitch

*******************************************
*** "Happy Days" ***
***1961 F100 Unibody w/'59 292ci Y-block***
*******************************************
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:56:46 -0700
From: eric
Subject: FTE Pre61 - '61 F100 Cowl Question

Hey Everybody,

I've got a question for somebody in the know.....I've been planning to
take my '61 F100 Unibody's sheetmetal apart this fall/winter for
de-rusting and painting. I've got a good part of the front sheetmetal
off and now I'm scratching my head on how to remove the surface rust
that has invaded the inside-the-cowl area. I can look through the air
louvers directly below the windshield and see the light rust, but I am
unsure on how to access this area. It looks like I could drill out all
the spot welds and get into this area, but then when I weld the spots
back together, I'd end up with a similar problem. Any ideas.... maybe
from the inside of the cab???

Thanks in advance,
Stitch
*******************************************
*** "Happy Days" ***
***1961 F100 Unibody w/'59 292ci Y-block***
*******************************************
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 04:21:48 -0400
From: "David M. Ackerschott"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Rebuilding ????

Hello all i just finished my frame for my 1953 ford f-100 so now on to
the motor, i have a 351 cleveland i am wondering how hard it is to
rebuild it??? i have never taken an engine apart before so i was kind of
wondering if any one could give me some pointers, the motor ran fine
when it was in the truck it smoked a little, it have a 2 barrel carb, so
i would also like to with this to a 4 barrel, i guess my question is is
it easier to rebuild or just go out and by a long block ??? any help
would be greatly appreciated.

sure am looking forward to the California North and South Ford F100 Show
this next weekend..........

thanks in a advance dddavid
1953 Ford F100 Sweet & Low
1996 Ford Contour
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:09:07 -0800
From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Ballast Resistor

Stitch writes:
"I'm told by some that the truck is missing it's ballast resistor, hence
the heatup of the coil, and a couple of other folks say no', and still
others say the resistor's in the wiring..... please put this issue to
rest for me... if my truck needs the resistor then please tell me where it
goes and what it looks like on a '59 292ci Y-block. Any other info would
help. Thanks a bunch."

Stitch,
Yes the resistor is needed. Without it the coil will run hotter degrading
it's reliability, the points will burn prematurely, and if you leave the
ignition on with the engine stopped and the points closed your coil will
overheat fairly quickly. If I remember correctly, everything from 57 on
has the resistor built into the wiring. It is in the wire going from the
ignition switch to the coil. The section of the wire that is under the
dash is not copper, it is probably nichrome which is resistive. This
limits the amount of current that goes through the coil. The way to tell
if you have one is to measure the voltage from frame ground to the side of
the coil that goes to the ignition switch (not the small wire that goes to
the distributor) when:
1) the ignition is on,
2) the engine is stopped,
3) and the points are closed (or the little wire going to the distributor
is grounded).
If this voltage is somewhere between 4 and 8 volts you have a ballast
resistor in there somewhere. If the voltage is greater than 10 volts
(assuming your battery voltage is 12 volts or greater) you don't have one
or it is the wrong value resistance.
Incidentally don't touch the little wire between the coil and the
distributor when the engine is running, it carries voltage spikes of
several hundred volts.
Hope this answers your questions
Regards,
Roger Meier


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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:38:12 EDT
From: Brechtjohn aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: frame coating

By the way, Corrolesss primer by Eastwood was rated by "Skinned Knuckles"
magazine as the best primer. Rustoleum, the worst.

They did a thorough, independent evaluation of many primers and that is how it
basically came out.
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End of pre61-list-digest V2 #236
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