pre61-list-digest Monday, August 17 1998 Volume 02 : Number 228



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - More on 12 Volt Coils
FTE Pre61 - 1955 f-100 FOR SALE
Re: FTE Pre61 - More on 12 Volt Coils
FTE Pre61 - Model A Questions
FTE Pre61 - Bed Wood

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Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 13:54:45 -0400
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE Pre61 - More on 12 Volt Coils

I am using a 12 volt Bosch "Blue" coil on my otherwise (except for
the alternator) stock '54 F250. This coil is a "high performance" coil
found popular with the air-cooled VW crowd, and one I've had really good
luck with on my old VW, and so far so good on Grover. It is internally
resisted, or at leaast it must be, since a resistor block is not
something you will ever find on an air-cooled VW. I might add that there
is also a 6 volt version of this coil, and I recommend it for anybody
wanting to deliver a hotter spark to their 6 volt system.
These coils can be had through mail order, or any decent shop
catering to the VW crowd. Yeah, I know it's something for one o' them
furrin cars, but I'll use whatever works!

Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

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Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 15:43:09 -0500
From: Wesley Ashworth
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 1955 f-100 FOR SALE

Body in Grade A condition, 351W,Holly Carb, Competition Cam, Eddlebrock
intake, American Wheels. Needs Headliner and Carpet. Photo in
http://www.ford-trucks.com/

I bought a hunting truck yesterday and I must appease my very understanding
wife.

$5500 Firm

Memphis Area

Wesley Ashworth
9018534004 W
9018537830 H
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Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 11:50:57 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - More on 12 Volt Coils

> I am using a 12 volt Bosch "Blue" coil on my otherwise (except for
>the alternator) stock '54 F250. This coil is a "high performance" coil
>found popular with the air-cooled VW crowd, and one I've had really good
>luck with on my old VW, and so far so good on Grover. It is internally
>resisted, or at leaast it must be, since a resistor block is not
>something you will ever find on an air-cooled VW. I might add that there
>is also a 6 volt version of this coil, and I recommend it for anybody
>wanting to deliver a hotter spark to their 6 volt system.

Yeah, I agree with Don. The Bosch blue coil is a very good quality
piece. They are very rugged and put out a good high energy spark.
They are indeed internally ballasted, so You don't need (or want)
an external ballast resistor. I also used to use the blue coil in
VW applications, and in addition to a nice solid spark, I think it
gives somewhat longer points life than other coils I've used.
IMHO, the 6 volt version is probably the best coil available for folks
still running 6 volts systems.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 15:36:56 -0400
From: Charlie Kish
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Model A Questions

Hello there I am new to the list and I would like to tap into the
knowledge banks with a couple of questions for a guy I work with.

1929 A engine

Here is the problem: The engine is sending coolant out of the overflow
tube. It doesn’t happen at an idle but at advanced throttle the
coolant splashes out of the overflow tube. He looses enough coolant to
over heat. The motor runs very good. There is no bubbling or splashing
in the radiator at an idle but at advance throttle there is a good deal
of turbulence but not bubbles.
Here is what he has he has done so far:
installed new heavy duty radiator
installed new water pump (the leakless type)
new hoses
managfluxed the head
new head gasket
checked the block surface for warps
He had told me that he heard there was a service bulletin in 1930 for
modifying a splash baffle in the filler neck. Do you know anything
about that? Also do you know where the actual level of the radiator
fluid should be? Thanks this one is a puzzler on our end and any help
or direction is much appreciated.
Charlie
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 00:09:43 -0400
From: "Abram H. Stauffer"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Bed Wood

Okay, I took a piece of my rotted bed wood off (which is now off the
frame) and took it to the local wood expert. He cut it in half, looked
at the grain on the fresh cut end and said it is yellow pine. It does
look like the grain on the pressure treated lumber they sell today which
is southern yellow pine. I have the oak boards already. Why didn't I
check before? Why do all the catalogues sell nothing but oak? I got my
oak pretty cheap so it's no big deal. What does yellow pine look like
when it is finished? If one is going stock do you go so far as to use
the right wood or do you use oak because it looks better? By the way my
wood expert says white oak will last longer than red oak.And I got red
oak!!!
"Woodn't" ya know it, Abe
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End of pre61-list-digest V2 #228
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