pre61-list-digest Monday, July 20 1998 Volume 02 : Number 202



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Re: rear end for 55
Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: rear end for 55
FTE Pre61 - Couple of questions...
FTE Pre61 - Engine Oil Coolers
FTE Pre61 - broken bolt removal (removed!)
FTE Pre61 - Flathead headers
FTE Pre61 - 5th wheel mounting

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Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 07:48:47 -0700
From: Andy
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: rear end for 55

Can someone tell me, when you are measureing to see if a third member would fit -
do you measure from the inside of the hub to the other hub? I have a 77 Lincon
that is a junk car - but the rear end seems to have the same width as my truck.
Any help>

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Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 12:17:18 EDT
From: KLaff61624 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: rear end for 55

Axle flange to axle flange,( where the back of the wheel bolts against the
drum of the axle) is where you want to take your measurements.

Ken L.
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Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 00:37:38 -0500
From: Josh Hamilton
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Couple of questions...

I am rebuilding the front end in my 59 F100 and I need to find a catalog
or online supplier that will supply me with everything that I need to do
it. I am replacing everything including leaf springs, I am planning on
getting those from a junk yard and fixing them up. I have heard about
people redoing the leaf springs and I don't know exactly what I need to
do to get them right again. Please tell me anything that you know
about rebuilding front ends, any advice or warnings or even tricks of
the trade. I would love to hear them. I am trying to restore my 59 the
best that I can. I have put a new engine in it and trany. I have other
plans, but the front end isn't too hot right now. I also want to know if
anybody know what could be putting play in my steering. I think that the
worm gear is getting worn, but some one told me that I might need to
adjust it. Any tricks or instructions on how exactly I go about that. I
haven't had much experience because my dad really doesn't like to work
on cars and trucks. I am only 17 and I have been working on this truck
since I turned 16. Sorry for any dumb questions. I am just trying to
learn how to keep the classics on the road. I look forward to hearing
anything that you would like to tell me. Thanx for the help.

Josh
(59 F100)
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Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 19:55:45 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Engine Oil Coolers

I saw a former police cruiser at a car lot some years back that also had
factory oil cooler for the 460 under the car's hood. My MG had an oil
cooler as well. The taxi would have benifited from the cooler due to the
slow speeds it would keep all day long, whereas a police cruiser would need
the extra cooling capacity for high speed driving. My MG needed it because,
well, it was an MG!
I really can't see how you could go wrong putting in an oil cooler if you
will be towing a lot, particularly if you install a thermosat in the oil
line running from the engine to the cooler. That way, it won't even be in
use until the oil was good and hot. In my experience with VWs many have
suggested a thermostat because some of the accessory oil coolers work TOO
well, increasing warmup time in the winter.
Besides, one of those factory oil coolers would look pretty good under the
hood!

Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
innaccesible part of the vehicle."

kyneighbors kih.net


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Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 21:06:30 EDT
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - broken bolt removal (removed!)

Just thought I'd let you all know I got the remnants of my flathead exhaust
manifold bolt out of the block without too much trouble. I WD-40ed it a
couple times a day while I was doing other things, then heated it and hit it,
... and finally dragged out my oxy-propane torch ( pretty cool lightweight
welding rig) and heated it a lot, after which vise grips turned it right out.
For more on the story, see an upcoming 'Flathead headers' mail.
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Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 21:06:42 EDT
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Flathead headers

Oh, what a job!
I've temporarily installed a set of steel tubing headers from "Early Ford"
on my '51 V8 F1. I don't recommend them to anyone. They're the same set I've
seen from several vendors. They are not, however the center exit headers
shown in the Sacramento catalog, which might work just fine. Too late.
Headers in general are a great idea, and it sounds great up on the
jackstands without the rest of the exhaust (throttle response is amazing, and
the neighbors just love it), but ...
These headers weren't made for a truck. Must be for cars, but there have
to be better truck headers. I can't say anything about the fit of the Fentons
or others, but there is a ton of room under the flathead in a truck to put a
proper set of tube headers, and these ain't them.
The driver's side is the problem, due to the steering gearbox, and in my
case the oil filter supply line. Probably everybody's oil filter line, but
that's relatively easy, just brake line, bend it where you want it. The
gearbox is another matter. I had to dimple my header by heating it (propane),
then using a ball peen hammer to add clearance for the lock nut over the
sector shaft adjusting screw. I think the instructions (little sheet I lost
long ago) warned of this possibility, but I just didn't really believe you had
to purposely put dents in a new, nickel plated set of headers. Makes me shake
my head in disgust. I dimpled it just enough for clearance, but probably not
enough to ever get the nut off to adjust the steering gearbox without removing
the headers. And, ...
These headers don't have a flange on them to connect to the rest of the
exhaust. I guess you're supposed to use clamps, but, there's not enough room
next to the steering gearbox to clamp a pipe over the end of the headers. I'm
going to have to learn to use that MIG welder I bought for just this purpose,
weld on an extension, then weld on the flanges I bought from JCWhitney, then
find some gaskets, on and on - - how does nickle plating affect MIG welding
for an absolute neophyte?
So anyway. I have tailpipes I had bent at Spring Carlisle, just hanging
over the rear axle right now. I'm cleaning up the spare tire carrier, so I
can mount the spare to properly route the tailpipes. Then its a little more
MIG practice getting the 2" ID glasspacks adapted down to the 1 3/4" OD
tailpipes, then bending the head pipes 'tween the headers and glasspacks...
Good thing I'm in no hurry. Only after all that will I find out whether
Virginia allows glasspacks!

Wish me luck. Oh! and when I fired it up to see how it sounded with
straight headers, I got to watch a pretty impressive stream of gasoline erupt
from a rubber hose between the fuel pump and an inline filter. Good thing I
just practiced with my tubing bender for the oil filter line, so I could make
up some decent fuel line. It's always somethin'.
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Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 00:26:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Oldtrukman webtv.net (R. Pietsch)
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 5th wheel mounting

The mounting brackets for the 5th wheel hitch are mounted to frame
under the bed, by either welding or bolting them in place, (mine are
bolted), and then up through the bed floor to the actual hitch brackets.
These brackets, or tracks, are what the 5th wheel hitch slides into for
easy removal so you can use the bed for regular load hauling purposses.
I would recomend having a reputable hitch installation dealer to the
installation to insure the propper location of the hitch directly over
the drive axle.





Rix56 'The Rat'

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End of pre61-list-digest V2 #202
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