pre61-list-digest Sunday, June 21 1998 Volume 02 : Number 175



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Halogen Lights
FTE Pre61 - Starting a Y-block
Re: FTE Pre61 - Starting a Y block (fwd)
FTE Pre61 - John: 53 F100 and 64 Galaxie
FTE Pre61 - Chassis paint:
FTE Pre61 - Correction: ADMIN: New performance list

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Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 10:29:37 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Halogen Lights

Steve from Canada wrote: "I noticed in my local parts store that they have
replacement sealed beams (for a 2 light system) that are halogen. I was
thinking of replacing my headlights with these. They say that they are
about 3 times brighter. Has anyone had experience with these lights?"
I use halogen lights on my '54, and I am amazed at their ability to
illuminate the passenger cabins of oncoming vehicles! :-) Seriousl, I
started using halogen lights on my cars some time back, after buying a more
modern vehicle that used them. Halogens last longer (at least twice as long
as standard sealed beams) and they light up the 20 odd miles of twisties I
drive every day very well. Go to halogens, and never turn back!

Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
innaccesible part of the vehicle."

kyneighbors kih.net



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Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 10:38:54 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Starting a Y-block

Okay, I know this is my second posting on the same list...
David, my '54 with a 239 Y-block was started for the first time since 1974
about 1-1/2 years ago. I don't think any prep was done prior to cranking it
over. I've let some of my cars sit for a few months, and just got in and
started cranking. HOWEVER, I think a little Mystery Oil in the cylinders is
a good idea. Take the coil wire off and crank it until your oil pressure
comes up, then put the coil wire back on and fire it up. It will smoke like
the dickens until the Mystery Oil burns out, I suspect. I've never had any
trouble just starting up my vehicles after a multi-month wait, but Grover
lost the rings on # 3 after 23 years of sitting.

Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
innaccesible part of the vehicle."

kyneighbors kih.net


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Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 11:22:57 -0500
From: Ray Cardogno
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Starting a Y block (fwd)

>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 17:30:22 -0700 (PDT)
>From: David Stokes
>To: fordtrucks listservice.net
>Subject: Starting a Y block (fwd)
>
>
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 22:18:11 -0700 (PDT)
>From: David Stokes
>To: fordtrucks listservice.net
>Subject: Starting a Y block
>
>One of my 56's ran 8 months ago when parked. I am getting ready to start
>it up again. The motor is the original "Y" block and the fluids
>including oil were never drained. (Prior to my ownership). Do I need to
>do anything special such as turning the oil pump to prime it or is it good
>to go since the oil was never drained out. Of course I would put fresh
>oil in it before I started it. Would a little mystery oil in the spark
>plug holes be a good idea? Any advice would be appreciated

I started one of mine that I shamefully neglected for almost a year. I
really got lazy and grabbed the gas/oil mixture for my weed whacker and
primed it through the carb with that. When it started you could hear
squeaks, chaffing,clacking, and clunking for about ten horrible seconds :o

I promised myself I would spin the oil pump, top lube with marvel, and
starter-spin it for a few seconds before allowing a stored engine to start
from now on. Fortunately it smoothed out and I didn't spin any bearings or
anything, but I know it didn't do it any good.

Ray C


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Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 10:24:09 -0500
From: "wild.bunch"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - John: 53 F100 and 64 Galaxie

John:
Three things here: to figure out what's in your car, you are going to
have to do some digging. I'm assuming (hoping, really) that since you say
that the 352 is a truck engine, that the truck 4sp wasn't what was installed
in your car. Ford used two types of 4sp transmissions in cars: The
Borg-Warnet T10 and the Ford T&C. The T10 has a side cover with the 1-2 and
3-4 shift levers sticking out. The cover has 9 bolts holding it on and is
the shape of a letter "D" with the curved side down. Ford first started
using them in 59 or 60 and used them until the end of the decade in
Mustangs. The T&C was introduced by Ford in 64. It has no side cover; the
shift levers come right out of the case. There is a sheet metal cover on top
thru which the transmission is serviced.
Once you figure out what you have, you need to consult some Ford or
MOTOR manuals to see where the identification tags are that will tell you
what you have. Do this, and we can go from there.
The last two issues: As far as the Y Block, there are two reasons that
you can get clutch chatter. First, the Y's old rope seal can get to leaking,
which gets oil on the flywheel/clutch. This will cause chatter. If oil
leakage is a problem, remember there are side seals on the seal cap that
need replacement also, and you have to follow the instructions to do it
right. Do some extra looking to find a neoprene seal instead of a rope one;
neoprene seals are still available from McQuay-Norris.
Another problem that can be encountered is the four bellhousing bolts
getting loose. The Y only has four, so you need to pay particular attention
that these are tight without overtightening them. I have seen some nimrods
strip these and try to run on two bolts. No amount of advice can help this
attitude. If you have a stripped hole you need to get after it with a
Heli-coil, pronto! The surfaces of the block and bellhousing must be squeeky
clean where they mate. If some monkey mechanic has run with loose bolts, the
two locating dowels will wear their corresponding holes in the bellhousing
into an egg shape and you will never get the thing to work right. This means
a trip to the junk yard, so check your bellhousing, too.
All of this assumes that your flywheel is clean and without divots, of
course.

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Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 12:03:03 -0400
From: "Robert Person"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Chassis paint:

I have a friend with a fairly nice 57t-bird to restore and he is doing a
frame off. The question is: does the chassis paint havelead in it and/or is
it considered hazardous material. He has to body off to a media-blaster and
he wanted to use a small sandblaster for the chassis.

I figured that you guys/gals would be the easiest source fro this type of
information.

Any thoughts.

(Bob - STILL looking for a real good Big Window 56 cab to rod)

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Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 15:11:56 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Correction: ADMIN: New performance list












I made a mistake yesterday for the subscribe addresses. Below
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End of pre61-list-digest V2 #175....


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