pre61-list-digest Friday, June 12 1998 Volume 02 : Number 166
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
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In this issue:
ford trucks and old ford tractors
FW: 12 Volts and Ford Tractors
Rich - 54 F100 & Steve 50 F1
ADMIN: Out of town.
Re: 41 exhaust
Invasion of the F Series
horn button 6 volt regulator iC
Re:Ford 9" swap
6v 12v neg/pos
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 06:57:34 -0700
From: tfam swbell.net
Subject: ford trucks and old ford tractors
A few years ago, I was farming with a 2N ford tractor and a 63 F-100
unibody truck with a 292 and a 4speed tranny. I dont have the farm or
the truck, but I still have the tractor. By the way, Here in the
K.C. area, we have a Ford truck factory and we have the Worlds of Fun
park. they are not very far apart eiter. I beieve it has potential for
a meet, what do you think. L. D. in K. C. 97 F-250HD
52 F-1 (in restoration) 50 F-1 panel
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 08:47:59 -0400
From: Alec Fernandez
Subject: FW: 12 Volts and Ford Tractors
> I think the post was that before '54 they had 6 volt POSITIVE ground
> systems, then in '54 they went to 6 volt negative ground and in '56
> they went to 12 volt negative ground.
> BTW, I hope nobody thought I was serious when I asked about dot 5
> fluid not being on topic, it thought that was a very interesting
> and will think twice before I put the stuff in a vacume assisted brake
> Hey Ray, do you think having all that fiberglass insulation looking
> stuff inside the cylinders would make the engine sound quieter?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don & Teresa Neighbors [SMTP:kyneighbors kih.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 1998 10:17 PM
> To: Discussion Group - Ford Trucks
> Subject: 12 Volts and Ford Tractors
> One of y'all wrote that Ford changed over to 12 volts,
> negative ground in
> 1954. Actually, that change occured in 1956, or somebody forgot
> to tell my
> truck! I changed my '54's 6 volt, postive ground system over to
> 12 volts
> negative earlier this year.
> And Steve wrote: "Just to deviate from the focus of the
> group for a
> minute, how many more Ford tractor guy's are there? We can go
> off line
> after we identify ourselves."
> Well, I don't currently own an N series Ford tractor,
> but I WAAAAAANT one!
> Don Neighbors
> '54 F250 Named Grover
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 08:05:25 -0600
From: "Piegat, Tim"
Subject: Rich - 54 F100 & Steve 50 F1
Rich, take the rocker cover off and turn the pump until oil comes out of the
overflow tube on the rocker arm shaft. Then you will know that there is oil
in all of the galleries.
Steve, better go back and read that thread again. I said I THINK the hub to
hub length of the 67-71 rear end is the same as your F1, BUT the spring
perches need to be moved. I know that the 57-60 rear is a bolt in for 53-56
and that 61 thru the 70s differs in the shock mounting. I repeat my
suggestion that you take a tape measure and satisfy yourself that the rear
end you are looking at will meet your needs. I would hate for you to buy
this rear end under the expectations your posting seems to imply.
As far as your ratio, figure out what kind of driving you will do: in town
or hiway, and the percentage of each.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/rpmmph.html has a site that you can then
use to calculate what RPM a combination will give.
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 16:17:52 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Out of town.
I will be out of town through Sunday. Any admin requests or
subscription problems will be dealt with on Monday. Please
be patient, I'll have 1,000+ emails by Sunday evening and it
will take some time to deal with them.
Ken Payne, CoAdmin
Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 20:09:04 -0700
From: Edward Sedgwick
Subject: Re: 41 exhaust
The exhaust system you use depends on which exhaust manifolds you have
on the engine. The face of the block where the exhaust manifolds mount
is the same from 32 to 53, but the manifolds have the outlets to the
pipes in different locations. The other thing that might happen, is
that the passenger Y-pipes sometimes have less drop than a truck, and
with a truck oil pan, you may end up with the crossover pipe firmly
wedged against the bottom of the pan. (does not promote cool oil)
18-9430,31 1932-1936 all
40-9431, 1932-36 replacement
78-9430,31 1937-1941 all
21A-9430,31 1942-1947/8 all
As far as I know, 8BA truck exhaust manifolds 1948-1952, directly
interchange with the 21A manifolds even though they look different.
Muffler Inlet Pipe, (pass side, has entry for rt side pipe, leads to
I still have my copy of the Green Book, so If I can look up any further
let me know.
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 19:20:42 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: Invasion of the F Series
100,000 Ford trucks in Louisville! I like it!
'54 F250 Named Grover
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 21:07:53 -0700
From: paul van pelt
Subject: horn button 6 volt regulator iC
Your horn button should be available from "Mid-Fifties" at 800 252 1956
The catalog shows it for $25.
The 6 volt regulator 7806T 1 amp is available from JDR Micro at 800 538
5005 $0.39 ea An alternative is a LM338K 5 amp adjustable regulator,
you would need trimming resistors to set the voltage and a heat sink if
the amperage output was moderate. However, if your 53 still uses a
positive gound you may actually want a negative regulator either a 7906
or an LM337T. Guages probably could be reversed for polarity but no way
on radios ect. If you would like schematics for the circuits contact me
and I'll forward them to you
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 21:57:30 -0500
From: Rick Barron
Subject: Re:Ford 9" swap
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 09:15:28 -0500
From: Stephen Hansen
Subject: Ford 9" and Gear ratios
At the suggestion of one of our list members, He said that a 67-71 (or
there abouts) F-100 F150 9" is a direct bolt in to the 48-50 F-1. Has
anyone ever actually done this? I found a '70 F-150 9" at the junkyard
(OOPS, Auto Parts Recycling Center) for $150, Is this a fair price?
Hi Stephen , my name is Rick . I have a 51-F1 and in the middle of this project
I bought a 9" from a salvage yard out of a 71 F100 Custom Sport for $100,
3.55 traction lock complete from drum to drum. The spring mounts line up perfectly and
the overall width is within 1" of the original rearend. Its bolted in today.
I have a few things to work out before its finished.
1. The rearend is tilted back and not perpendicular to the ground. Do I need
wedges between the springs and mounts? Or do I have something in wrong?
2. It looks like the shock mounts on the axle will not line up with the mounts on
the frame. What kind of workarounds can anyone suggest?
3. I haven't given much thought to the emergency brake cables. Should I try to use
the 51 cables or the 71 ?
If anyone can help me with these problems, Thank you. This is my first project.
I'll try one more time,
"They changed to a 6 v negative ground system in 55 (54 and earlier were 6
V positive ground), then in 56 went to a 12 V neg ground system that is
still in use today." 8 )
And my 8N which I have been my workhorse for over 20 years now got a 12
volt alternator about 6 years ago. Much nicer and more reliable than the
old 3 brush generator and 6 v battery.
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