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Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 23:07:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com (pre61-list-digest)
To: pre61-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list-digest V2 #138
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pre61-list-digest Tuesday, May 19 1998 Volume 02 : Number 138



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older trucks and vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE Pre61 - Vacuum Wipers
FTE Pre61 - tilt front ends
FTE Pre61 - 4-link Info Needed
FTE Pre61 - 1947 Ford Pick-Up
FTE Pre61 - RE: Wipers, Ray C.
Re: FTE Pre61 - Vacuum Wipers
Re: FTE Pre61 - RE: Wipers, Ray C.
Re: FTE Pre61 - RE: Wipers, Ray C.
FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: Another list vote
FTE Pre61 - Carlisle All Truck Nationals
FTE Pre61 - Vacuum wipers
FTE Pre61 - Re: Vacuum Wipers
FTE Pre61 - ?? about Carlisle
Re: FTE Pre61 - tilt front ends
Re: FTE Pre61 - Vacuum wipers
Re: FTE Pre61 - ?? about Carlisle
Re: FTE Pre61 - Carlisle All Truck Nationals
Re: FTE Pre61 - Vacuum wipers
Re: FTE Pre61 - Steering Box Adj Procedures

=======================================================================

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Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 06:50:31 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Vacuum Wipers

I have vacuum wipers on my truck, Trent, and mine do exactly the same
thing. I've developed a habit of lifting my foot from the throttle for
about the space of one wipe of the blades, although this is not easy to do
while climbing a hill. I have been considering a vacuum reservoir myself,
and I don't agree with your mechanic. It seems to me if the reservoir will
hold a vacuum long enough to keep the wipers going during acceleration,
then it's an improvement. I have heard there was a vacuum/fuel pump
available for Y-blocks, but I haven't looked very hard for one, I admit.
I consider vacuum wipers to be an early form of variable speed wipers. To
wit: he speed of the wipers varies automatically with throttle position and
the amount of moisture on the windshield. As long as you are stopped, or
moving slowly, and it is raining cats and dogs, they work great. If,
however, you punch it and it is only misty, they either wipe slowly or not
at all. I especially like the "Drizzle" function, when the wipers move
slowly across the windshield and automatically stop at any location on the
windshield until there is enough moisture on the windshield for them to
start moving again.
I sincerely hope nobody takes the preceding paragraph too seriously!
Trent, I plan to eventually replace my vacuum wiper motor with one of the
electric wiper conversion kits currently available. Ken Laffoon has figured
out a way to use a wiper motor from a later model Ford truck, so you might
get with him on it. I'm considering his idea too, since the kits run about
$150.
Hope this helps.

Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover
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Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 06:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: FTE Pre61 - tilt front ends


First let me say what a pleasure it was to meet and talk to all those
who attended the Nat's. And you know how you put a mental picture of
someone to a voice on the phone ? Well none of ya'll looked like you
type, either...

I was lucky enough to get the Fairlane Tilt front end this weekend and
before very long will start the install...If any of you guys have done
this before with fiberglass on a 53-56 frame, give me some details.

Ideas or sketches on hinge design, material/design on the mount for
the air deflector and hints for not screwing it up completely will be
greatly appreciated. This is my first attempt at this kind of thing
and I bow humbly to the overwhelming collective knowledge of this
group.

I plan to run - no bumpers..how much to cut off on the frame rails ?
Will be running electric lifts (8" stroke) for the tilt...are there
any magic angles, etc that I need to adhere to that will assure
smooth, easy action with no bind or grunt ?

I am assuming that when the lift pulls the tilt unit down it will hold
it there or is additional latching/securing necessary to hold it or to
minimize vibration and paint scuffing... I took a lot of pictures of
what was available but couldn't see any in actual movement...what do
you guys recommend ?

Two generally accepted "cut" lines are diagonal from wheel well to
door hinge area and vertical where the fender curls under the
cab...which do you feel is "best" or easiest or more sturdy...saw both
at the show and after asking a few questions it's like
toothpaste...users preference...they all work...


Any other hints, comments, kinks, etc that you can add and prevent a
disaster will be greatly appreciated..

sorry for the long post and all the questions but this group is like a
candy store to a kid...you just have to have it...

thanks in advance

john
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Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 06:36:44 -0700
From: JD Hollingsworth Jr
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 4-link Info Needed

Hi Group,

I'm considering a 4-link for the rear of my '55 and would like to hear
from those of you with personal experience with this set-up. I'm
interested in things like handling and height adjustability. I have IFS
and a 9" with stock leafs(minus 2) but it rides like a.....well.....a
truck! TIA guys.

- --
Later,
JDH "Once the pin is pulled and the spoon is
66 Charger 78 1/2 FLH-80 released, Mr. Grenade is no longer our
55 F-100 79 80" Custom friend"
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 06:44:54 PDT
From: "anita hanchob"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - 1947 Ford Pick-Up

hello I need the technical information on a 1947 Ford pickup. any and
all specs on this vehicle would be appreciated. thanks

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 07:50:22 -0600
From: "Piegat, Tim"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - RE: Wipers, Ray C.

JC Whitney used to sell a booster pump for this, but I don't remember a 6v
version (not saying there wasn't one made). One man's treasure is another
man's junk, but I've had really good service from the electric wipers I put
in my 54 F100. This may not be a solution for you, but they do work well! I
haven't seen the vacuum assist in years, but contemplated a search until my
older friend advised me that it was a lost cause in Colorado. At 8000 feet,
nothing made enough vacuum for the things to work!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 09:15:02 -0500
From: Ray Cardogno
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Vacuum Wipers

>>>Don wrote:
>Trent, I plan to eventually replace my vacuum wiper motor with one of the
>electric wiper conversion kits currently available. Ken Laffoon has figured
>out a way to use a wiper motor from a later model Ford truck, so you might
>get with him on it. I'm considering his idea too, since the kits run about
>$150.

I just bought a mint vacuum wiper motor with all the linkages at a swap
meet for $20 to be part of converting my 54 cabover to 12 volts. So save
those vac motors for the un-enlightened. I've always been a little bass
ackwards. I like the vac wipers. I also have Don's habit of a quick ease
off of the accelerator. Just enough to maintain the speed without slowing
down and the intermittent wipes swipe a stroke. In all fairness, I've never
seen an electric motor get those wipers flying like the vac will when your
cruising down the highway durring a very heavy rain (approx 4 strokes per
sec). Besides, they always make for small conversation, even when i'm alone.

Ray C


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 09:57:19 EDT
From: Pea Soup A
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - RE: Wipers, Ray C.

Patrick's has an electric motor that works well.....and Sacramento Vintage has
a great one......both for a 48-52...Bob
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 10:11:41 -0500
From: Ray Cardogno
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - RE: Wipers, Ray C.

>JC Whitney used to sell a booster pump for this, but I don't remember a 6v
>version (not saying there wasn't one made). One man's treasure is another
>man's junk, but I've had really good service from the electric wipers I put
>in my 54 F100. This may not be a solution for you, but they do work well! I
>haven't seen the vacuum assist in years, but contemplated a search until my
>older friend advised me that it was a lost cause in Colorado. At 8000 feet,
>nothing made enough vacuum for the things to work!

The reason I am converting the 54 to vac is because I am changing to 12
volts. It also has a big vacuum tank for the power brake vac booster. I
figure for $20 including even the rack and pinion switch, what the heck. I
hear you there on the elevation. Sounds like you have your ups and downs.
Have you ever considered a hand crank on the dash?


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 14:11:04 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ADMIN: Another list vote

As requested several times over the last few months, a vote
to start a performance oriented list has been added to the
voting center on the web site. This list would be for
discussion of performance, hot-rod and street-rod issues for
all years and models of Ford trucks. This list will be
dedicated to the pursuit of power!

Point your browser to the main web site and click on "voting".
Voting expires in two weeks. If passed, this new list would
be administered by list member Keith Srb, who has volunteered
to take on the job.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 14:44:44 -0400
From: "Howard Tarnoff"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Carlisle All Truck Nationals

Just wondering if anyone is going to the Nationals June 19-21. Like to
meet some people there.

We just were notified our 55 has been selected for the Sweestakes Judged
Show on Sunday.

Howard
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 15:36:12 EDT
From: MichellHC
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Vacuum wipers

Ray wrote:
>may be adding more question than solution, but I have 2 trucks with vac
>wipers and I was wondering if anyone knows if a combo fuel/vac pump exists
>for the 54 and up Y-blocks? They do have these for other trucks and the
>wipers get consistant vac regardless of manifold vac state.

Hello Ray,
here I am knocking on your computer once more. The answer is a big yes, it is
called a double action fuel pump. I know it was avalible as early as 57, I
remember very well my dad had a 57 Ford Fairlane with a 312 that had the
double action pump. The dry side of the pump has a vacuum chamber and a
fitting for your wipers. I am sure it has a check valve of some sort to build
and hold a vacuum. Not just sure how it works. Also don't know it ties in with
the vacuum hose from the intake to your wipers, but that should not be too
hard to figure out.

Also over breakfast this moring a very timid guy that just never uses a
computer told me he wrote you yesterday about a cabover. I am just dieing to
know did he say what he had to say in ten words or less. Bob is a great guy,
but a man of very few words.

Michelle
Chelle's 56 Hauler
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:07:12 -0700
From: Edward Sedgwick
Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Vacuum Wipers

A vacuum tank will help. I haven't seen a vacuum pump for sale in years,
but the little compressors they sell for air horns hooked up in reverse
should work.

I don't know about combination vac/fuel pumps for Y-blocks, but I can
remember being warned about using them on flathead V-8s, the cams tend
to wear down to round even with just the fuel pump. (ever pull one down
and find washers on top of the fuel pump push rod.)

Ed Sedgwick
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:00:06 -0400
From: "Howard Tarnoff"
Subject: FTE Pre61 - ?? about Carlisle

I would like to get some insight into showing at Carlisle. We are a bit
nervous as this will be the first time we show EFFE (yep, no I in it...The
Commonwealth of Mass only allows four letters in an Antique Vanity Plate)
in a judged event of this magnitude.

Anyone out there with any advice? Even if it is not Carlisle, any tidbits
about what constitutes a 100 Point Truck would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Howard Tarnoff
tarnoffh norfolk-county.com
tarnoffh simplexnet.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:49:00 EDT
From: KLaff61624
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - tilt front ends

John, wish that you had got with me about the fiberglass frontend at the show.
My truck was there and I would have shown how my setup works. I did not open
the front at the show because I'm still planning on getting something in swap
from the owner of fairlane or someother company. You probally read the other
post about one piece front ends. Well I quess I'll let you'all in on how I
did my fiberglass front end. Go to the tractor supply store and buy two jacks
like you would find on a boat, they should cost about 20 dollars apiece.
Buy the shortest one possible. I don't know what type suppension you are
useing so the next steps are hard to be prescise. You need to drill holes in
your stock front crossmember the size of the outside diameter of the jacks,
and the holes need to be fixed such that the jacks can be positioned inside
the frame rails. Remove the crank handles and the gear that is on the crank.
Cut the pads off the jacks so that you can slide the jacks into the holes,
they will be welded in later. With the jacks in place you can now set the
front end on the truck to determine where you want the end of the jacks when
they are retracted to be located. If you want to use a bumper with this setup
place the jacks when retracted at the end of the frame. Weld a piece of
rectangleaur tubing across the front of the jacks to attach your bumper or
hinges to if your not using a bumper. Remove the jacks and install a rod
that will reach across the frame and extent past the frame a couple of inches
on the side that you want to install the electric motor and gears. The rod
needs to be the same diameter as your crank handles in order to go where you
removed the handles . Make sure that your rod is measured correct and put the
gears on the rod that you removed from crank handles.(this is best done with
the jacks in place on the frame) You will have to drill a hole in the frame
for the rod to stick thru on the side you place your electric motor. The
gears need to be placed opposite of each other inside the jacks ex. both on
the inside or both on the outside. If they are placed both on the left or
right then one jack will try to go in and the other out. Take a electric
window motor from a older model ford car ex. 78LTD and go to a gear supply
store and buy a gear to fit the rod for you jacks and that matches the teeth
on the window motor. The gear ratio needs to be around twenty to one ( I'll
check mine if you decide to do this). Make a bracket to mount the motor to
your frame, but be sure to install the gear first so that you will know where
to put the bracket. Your almost done!!! Attached wires,install switch , weld
unit inplace, and attach any brackets for your flip up. If you use a bumper
you will have to weld a plate from the jack front back to where you place your
hinges and cut your frame behind the bumper mountings bolts( do not weld plate
to frame because the plate must be free to go forward)
You can choose to cut the frame behind the fiberglass front and make your
bracket attact there also. You saw the hinges that everyone is using, they
are fine but you must weld a lever to the bottom of them to attach a rod that
pulls back on the bottom of the hinge as the jacks go out causing the top to
rotate outward, thereby raising the front end. The rod that you use to pull
back on the bottom lever of the hinge can be a wire cable. You have to
install some slack to allow the bottom of the fenders to get past the cab if
you do not want to cut the fenders, course that is the only reason to do all
this work in the first place, and you may have to experiment a little with how
long the lever and how much the slack has to be for your tires and clearences.
Last but no least you need a brace from the center of your radiator support to
the center of your cab for a roller to ride upon when the hood is down. I
recomend using 1 inch tubing. You can install a small rise on the tubing that
allows the roller to raise the back of the hood enough to clear the
weatherstriping and then set back down for best opperation. The turn in on
the fenders will keep it from opening untill it is extented so there is no
need for a latch.

Sorry this is so long , but I hope you'all can see how this works and can
adapt it to other frames. Good Luck Ken L.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:54:20 -0400
From: Steve
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Vacuum wipers

On my '57, it's a (or was, rather - switched to newer model fuel pump w/no vacuum
boost) simple loop between the vacuum booster on the fuel pump to the intake to
the wipers and back to the booster.

MichellHC wrote:

> Ray wrote:
> >may be adding more question than solution, but I have 2 trucks with vac
> >wipers and I was wondering if anyone knows if a combo fuel/vac pump exists
> >for the 54 and up Y-blocks? They do have these for other trucks and the
> >wipers get consistant vac regardless of manifold vac state.
>
> Hello Ray,
> here I am knocking on your computer once more. The answer is a big yes, it is
> called a double action fuel pump. I know it was avalible as early as 57, I
> remember very well my dad had a 57 Ford Fairlane with a 312 that had the
> double action pump. The dry side of the pump has a vacuum chamber and a
> fitting for your wipers. I am sure it has a check valve of some sort to build
> and hold a vacuum. Not just sure how it works. Also don't know it ties in with
> the vacuum hose from the intake to your wipers, but that should not be too
> hard to figure out.
>
> Also over breakfast this moring a very timid guy that just never uses a
> computer told me he wrote you yesterday about a cabover. I am just dieing to
> know did he say what he had to say in ten words or less. Bob is a great guy,
> but a man of very few words.
>
> Michelle
> Chelle's 56 Hauler
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> "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the message body.
> =======================================================================



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Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:29:15 -0500
From: Rich Garber
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - ?? about Carlisle

At 09:00 PM 5/19/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I would like to get some insight into showing at Carlisle. We are a bit
>nervous as this will be the first time we show EFFE (yep, no I in it...The
>Commonwealth of Mass only allows four letters in an Antique Vanity Plate)
>in a judged event of this magnitude.
>
>Anyone out there with any advice? Even if it is not Carlisle, any tidbits
>about what constitutes a 100 Point Truck would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>Howard Tarnoff


GOOD LUCK!!!!!

Rich
54 F100
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Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 23:05:56 EDT
From: JRFiero
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Carlisle All Truck Nationals

In a message dated 98-05-19 14:45:41 EDT, you write:


meet some people there.

We just were notified our 55 has been selected for the Sweestakes Judged
Show on Sunday.
>>
I've been to the Truck 'Nationals' at Carlisle, and don't think I'll bother
this year. There is more Ford Truck stuff at the All Ford Nationals at
Carlisle than at the Truck show. Its still a fun day, but not worth it if you
have to take time off from work or other worthy pursuits. The Truck show is
more Show than part swap meet, and even the Car Corral lacks that Ford
perspective.
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Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 23:05:59 EDT
From: JRFiero
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Vacuum wipers

In a message dated 98-05-19 15:37:11 EDT, you write:


called a double action fuel pump. I know it was avalible as early as 57 >>
This is regarding a fuel pump with a vacuum booster pump all in one. I
bought one for my flathead at Spring Carlisle for ~ $20. Package deal, so I'm
not sure exactly what it cost. Haven't put it on yet, and I acquired a
supposedly 6V electrical motor, so maybe never will! i think such pumps were
available the whole time vacuum wiper motors were used with the OHV engines.
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Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 23:05:55 EDT
From: JRFiero
Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Steering Box Adj Procedures

In a message dated 98-05-18 22:48:02 EDT, you write:


>> panel has about 6" of free play around the diameter of the 18" wheel, so
>> I roughly figure about 35 degrees. >>
Six inches is way too much. On center, they say there shouldn't be any,
but I've never seen one that tight. The procedure in the manual (49-52, but
damn close) is to: 1. disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm. 2.
Loosen the steering column tube to instrument panel bracket. 3. Back the
side (sector) adjustment out (counterclockwise) to remove any load. 3.
Measure the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center of it's rotation.
This is kinda the hard part. Ford must have had a spring scale, like a fish
scale, which read in ounces. It should be 1/4 to 3/4 pound
on F1, F2, and F3, 1/2 to 1 lb on all others. I used a postal scale to
measure the weight of some sockets, then put them in a mesh bag my wife (used
to) use for washing 'delicates,' then ran it's tie sting from the top of the
steering wheel off to the side, then over a socket extension straight down. I
think this translates into the force needed to turn the wheel. I also measure
quarters ($0.25 pieces) to see what they weighed, if you don't have a scale.
1/4 pound (4 ounces) is ~16 quarters, 3/4 pound (12 ounces) is therefore ~48
quarters. You take it from there. If this measurement isn't right, your need
to change the stack of shims under the shaft. Then shims are actually gaskets
of varying thicknesses, and a selection is available from most of our common
suppliers. This is a messy and iterative process. You need to have some gear
lube in the box to accurately measure the turning force, then you need to
remove the bottom plate to change shims, which dribbles gear lube all over.
Once this is in spec, center the wheel. Then, turn the 'sector shaft
thrust adjusting screw' (side adjuster) until 'all end play is removed from
the sector shaft.' Then the force should measure between 1 and 2 pounds on
the F1, F2, and F3, and 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 pounds on other models.
I have found that when the gears are too worn, tightening the sector shaft
adjusting screw too much jams the sector against the housing, which of course
makes the wheel harder to turn, but doesn't reduce the free play or have the
intended affect on steering accuracy. Then there's nothing left to do but
replace the steering shaft (worm) and sector, or the whole box. Other things
that wear out are the roller bearings on top and below the worm on the
steering shaft, the bushings on the outside of the sector, and the seal on the....


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