fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, April 8 1998 Volume 02 : Number 095



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Alternator tickler [Andy Montebello ]
Re: Alternator tickler [billjhs ]
Oil Bath [Rich Garber ]
Questions on Rims and Tires for a 51 F1 ["Vierra, William BGI SF"
Re: Fenders for 1951 F-1, Bruke Wills [Chief2658 ]
converting to electronic ignition [Jesus Cardoso
Re: clevelands and chevy motors [Cathy Greenlaw ]
Re: Radio for '48 to '51 F Series [JRFiero ]

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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 06:32:36 -0600
From: Andy Montebello
Subject: Re: Alternator tickler

Ray Cardogno wrote:
>
> >Subject: Re: Alternator
> >
> >>Now, does anyone know why my alternator on my 83 302 won't kick in until
> >>I rev the motor a bit, say 2000 rpm. After I do that it kicks in and
> >>stays on and charges the battery fine, until I shut it down, then I have
> >>to rev it again to get it back on. I changed the voltage regulator and
> >>checked the wires, seems OK.
>
>
> I can't speak with total authority on that particular alternator, but you
> >might not have a problem. Back when I still had my flathead I put a GM 1
> >wire alternator on it and to excite the thing (i.e. make it start charging)
> >you had to rev it to 2000 rpm. It wasn't a quirk or anything, that's just
> >what you had to do--it was designed that way.

If a 1 wire alternator had a
> battery-excited field, that circut would constantly be draining the battery
> when the motor is off because the wire goes directly to the battery.
> Therefore the field of a one-wire alt has to be excited like Dan said
> electromagnetically by spinning the winding past a permanant magnet. I bet
> that's what your seeing at 2-G's.

Bought a one wire alternator to put on an old tractor. I also needed a
wide belt pulley so I got to talking to the guy about putting it on a
tractor. He put a wire on the back of the alternator to make it work at
lower RPMs. Has worked great, you might ask about it.
>

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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 09:18:36 -0400
From: billjhs
Subject: Re: Alternator tickler

To all who wrote on the Alternator:

Everyone is right, but I found the problem after some careful research. The
Voltage regulator has an extra wire labled I (which is the indicator circuit to a
light on the dash)
Well this needs to be hooked up even if you are not using the idiot light. It
"tickles" the alternator before you start it to get the field "excited" and start
producing.

Thanks for all the input
Bill

Ray Cardogno wrote:

> >Subject: Re: Alternator
> >
> >>Now, does anyone know why my alternator on my 83 302 won't kick in until
> >>I rev the motor a bit, say 2000 rpm. After I do that it kicks in and
> >>stays on and charges the battery fine, until I shut it down, then I have
> >>to rev it again to get it back on. I changed the voltage regulator and
> >>checked the wires, seems OK.
>
>
> I can't speak with total authority on that particular alternator, but you
> >might not have a problem. Back when I still had my flathead I put a GM 1
> >wire alternator on it and to excite the thing (i.e. make it start charging)
> >you had to rev it to 2000 rpm. It wasn't a quirk or anything, that's just
> >what you had to do--it was designed that way.
>
>
> >If you feel bold, and have no fear, take the alternator apart and check the
> >brushes, there's a good chance they are worn and sticking, especially if the
> >alternator is origional. It's realy not a bad job unless the 3 body bolts
> >are frozen and break.
>
> I also have a couple of pennies worth of input on this one. Some
> alternators have more than 1 wire so that a wire can be used to excite the
> field when the ignition is turned on. If a 1 wire alternator had a
> battery-excited field, that circut would constantly be draining the battery
> when the motor is off because the wire goes directly to the battery.
> Therefore the field of a one-wire alt has to be excited like Dan said
> electromagnetically by spinning the winding past a permanant magnet. I bet
> that's what your seeing at 2-G's.
>
> Ray C.
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, removal form on the web |
> | site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 08:16:49 -0500
From: Rich Garber
Subject: Oil Bath

>Hello All,
>
>Well, I cleaned all that goup out of the oil bath, Its amazing
>what all that stuff hides. It appears that it leaked, it was brazed
>and a poor job at best. It also has some pin holes, so it would never
>hold oil. So I decided to try to convert it over to a paper filter.
>After about 30 min. its almost done! I took alot of pictures and I
>think its a good solution. It sits as orginal, in fact at this time
>I'll pat myself on the back.
>
>Does anyone have a good, 54 223 6cly, oil bath they don't want? Now
>that I have a solution, I'm ready to cut up a good one.
>
>While I'm at it, does any one have a 223 laying around? I need the
>heat raiser spring and shroud.
>
>As soon as I get the pictures back of the conversion and put it
>together so it makes sense, I'll let you know.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich
>54 F100
>
>
>

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Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 09:36:08 -0700
From: "Vierra, William BGI SF"
Subject: Questions on Rims and Tires for a 51 F1

>As a new owner of a 51 Ford F1 I would appreciate some help on the
issue
>of tires. The truck currently has rims from a late model F-150 with
>235-15 tires. This makes it particularly hard to steer. I would like
>to go back to a more reasonably close to standard tire. From the
documentation I >have the truck came with 16 x 4.5 rims and 15 x 5.5 as
optional. The >question is which will perform better for driving the
truck? Putting in >power steering is an option I would also consider if
anyone knows a good >source of information (the truck has a 71 302).
>
>Also if anyone can tell me where the optional spare tire and optional
>spare tire carrier went I would appreciate it. A place to purchase the
>optional spare tire carrier would be great also. I would like to put
>the spare on the drives side attached to the outside of the bed but I
>have not been able to find any reference to the spare being there I
>would like to know the correct location. The truck is not 100%
original but I would like to keep it close to that.

Finally I have found the names of the original colors for the truck but
would like to know a good reference to actually see the colors.


Thank you,

William Vierra
51 F1

william.vierra bglobal.com
>

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Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 12:55:12 EDT
From: Chief2658
Subject: Re: Fenders for 1951 F-1, Bruke Wills

Bruke
Once again its Bone Yard trip time. I think there's a set on a 51' but they
some rust on the inside by the bed wall, and a crunch on the back rear right
side.
Interested???????????? If so I'll take a look!!!!!!!!!!

Chief2658

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Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 16:37:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: converting to electronic ignition

Howdy!

I am considering converting my 292 Y-Block from points to
electronic ignition. I have seen some kits in Hemmings and Classic Trucks
Magazine. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the conversion
kits? Thanks for you time.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso



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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 22:13:00 -0400
From: Cathy Greenlaw
Subject: Re: clevelands and chevy motors

jc & terry wrote:

> fella asked the other night about the differences between a 351 c and the
> 351 w+m . since i consider you to be very knowledgeable about the ford
> motors i was requesting you give him the run down.
> if you think yur motor is superior because of the letters on the valve
> cover i'll be the first to admit that it's useless to argue with that kind
> of logic.
> T-bird Terry

I think that question came thru at a time when I suffered writers cramp or
something, which as you note I no longer suffer. I though I must have deleted
it or missed it. I would have been glad to expound at some length on the
subject, if anybody is still dying to know, and I promise stick to at the
facts, as best I can. Who can be fully logical logical about a subject that
most of us writing to this list are passionate about? There is a '47 Ford 1-1/2
ton truck running around up here that has a 350 truck 4 speed in it. The owner
painted it Ford blue and put on a set of "Powered by Ford" valve covers with
the letters picked out in white. I though the man was a little insecure, but
nice job on the truck, you just had to like it. He used it to haul two old
midget racers around.

47 Fred

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Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 22:43:47 EDT
From: JRFiero
Subject: Re: Radio for '48 to '51 F Series

In a message dated 98-04-06 20:35:01 EDT, you write:


I have always been told those radios were very rare because people did not
put
radios in their trucks. i am interested in one also
>>

The following applies to 51 and 52 only, I don't know whether they're the same
as 48-50.

They aren't that rare, and there are a couple models. I bought one last year
at Carlisle for $8. Don't know if it worked or not, and it needed knobs,
which really are the hard part. Don't quote me on the accuracy of this, but
some have 8 tubes, some 12? Trucks had different pushbuttons and knobs from
cars, but other than that they're the same radio. I saw pristine examples of
the better ones for something like $120. Just so you know those aren't typos,
that's $8.00 and $120.00. Take your pick.
I have one in my 51 which may work, I don't know yet, it doesn't have a
speaker. But if any of you have a spare left side on/off/volume knob (I have
the inner tone ring), I'd sure appreciate it. Dennis Carpenter sells the
pushbuttons, passable reproductions, and I have the right side (tuning).
The $8 radio has a little story. One of the things on my Carlisle list was
radio knobs. I saw this radio which I was sure was the right one for $10, but
no knobs. Oh, well. Wandering earlier I had spoken to a guy with a '52 Panel
for sale. Later I passed by again, and he was dickering with someone for a
radio for mucho bucks. The radio seller left, so I told the Panel guy about
the $10 radio. Turns out he really wanted to fill the hole in another '51 he....

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