fordtrucks-digest Sunday, April 5 1998 Volume 02 : Number 092



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Windshield wiper control [Chief2658 ]
Re: Alternator [Dan Wentz ]
Conversion to dual master cylinder [Bruce Dunne ]
Re: Windshield wiper control [Scott ]
ADMIN: Article request, T-shirt and web site updates [Ken Payne
Re: Conversion to dual master cylinder [Justin McCrite
ADMIN: March archives online [Ken Payne ]
Re: Alternator [JStoneF100 ]
Re: Conversion to dual master cylinder [Cathy Greenlaw
Re: Alternator fix maybe [Cathy Greenlaw ]
Re: demolition derby demolition [Cathy Greenlaw ]
rear ends [Scott ]
56 wiper motors [David Stokes ]

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Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 11:01:04 EST
From: Chief2658
Subject: Re: Windshield wiper control

If you still are looking for the control cable for your 52 F-1, let me know.
I'll be going to the bone yard soon. They have several trucks 48-55 and I've
the piece you need.

Chief2658

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Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 09:58:45 -0800
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: Alternator

>Now, does anyone know why my alternator on my 83 302 won't kick in until
>I rev the motor a bit, say 2000 rpm. After I do that it kicks in and
>stays on and charges the battery fine, until I shut it down, then I have
>to rev it again to get it back on. I changed the voltage regulator and
>checked the wires, seems OK.

I can't speak with total authority on that particular alternator, but you
might not have a problem. Back when I still had my flathead I put a GM 1
wire alternator on it and to excite the thing (i.e. make it start charging)
you had to rev it to 2000 rpm. It wasn't a quirk or anything, that's just
what you had to do--it was designed that way.

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V (Damn Pep Boys lifetime warranty starters!)
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

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Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 12:24:46 -0600 (CST)
From: Bruce Dunne
Subject: Conversion to dual master cylinder

Hello all:

I've had my truck less than 1 year, and I wouldn't describe myself as a
mechanic, so if my questions sound mis-informed, pardon my ignorance.

I bought a bracket from Sacramento Ford to change out the stock master
cylinder for a dual reservoir type from a late '60s Mustang. I had a '65
VW Beetle that burst a brake line (single reservoir master cylinder) and
I'm lucky to be here today after that incident.

My questions:
1) I'm keeping the stock drum/drum setup, no power. Do I need a
proportioning valve to adjust the braking force between the fronts and
the rears?

2) How should the brakes be plumbed? I've heard that you split it with
each outlet connected to 1 front, 1 rear diagonally. Others say its just
one port connects to the fronts, one to the rears.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions,

BED
'53 F100

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Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 11:44:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott
Subject: Re: Windshield wiper control

- ---Chief2658 wrote:
>
> If you still are looking for the control cable for your 52 F-1, let
me know.
> I'll be going to the bone yard soon. They have several trucks 48-55
and I've
> the piece you need.
>
> Chief2658
If you wouldn't mind also looking for the three piece chrome on the
hood for a 1952 ford. I am having a hard time finding this, you can
talk a look at what the chrome looks like here:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9731/1952fordpic.jpg
Thanks, Scott

==


1952 Ford Pickup
Please take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9731/
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 15:35:19 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Article request, T-shirt and web site updates

Work on the T-shirt is underway again. I would like
to ask members to send in pictures of their trucks
for the design. All years wanted! We want to
represent as many eras as possible. Must be stock or
near stock "appearance" (lowered within reason is okay),
no offense meant to modified owners but the T-shirt
will be a "historial" picture. Send your photo as a
JPG formated image (set image quality to highest
setting) to kpayne mindspring.com or snail mail it to:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
T-Shirt Photo
PO Box 422
Lilburn, GA 30048

Those whose trucks we use will get a free T-shirt. If
we choose your truck, we will email a release to you.
Simply return it with your permission. Release will
cover you as well as us. Proceeds, as usual, will go
to fund the web site and lists. We also hope to expand
the mailings if proceeds allow.

The following updates have been made to the web site:

1. All pictorial pages reformated with a better layout.
2. 1960-1966, 1973-1979, 1980-1986, 1987-1996 and 1997+
pictorial pages have additions
3. Several new articles added to the articles page

I would like to ask list members to send in any articles.
It doesn't have to be fancy. If you can write a guide
detailing something you've done to your truck, from
installing a K&N filter on a 1997 F150 to installing a
new cam in a 302, its wanted. Since we have all skill
levels represented on the lists articles of all skill
levels are useful. As with all the articles, you keep
the copyright (I add a notice saying you're the copyright
holder and people need your permission to republish it).

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

PS. I almost have the free web space script working. Should be
up next weekend.

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Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 13:42:41 -0700
From: Justin McCrite
Subject: Re: Conversion to dual master cylinder

1) You will need a proportioning valve to deliver more pressure to the front
brakes, since that is where the most weight is. You also need to make sure
you have residual check valves for each reservior, to keep pressure in the
wheel cylinders.
2) Diagonal is good, because you always have one front and one rear wheel to
stop if something fails in you system. Which is good in an old pickup. If
your front brakes fail, you dont want just your rear brakes to lock up. Split
is fine too. Its easier to plumb and repair (you dont have to chase down
lines) and it works.


Bruce Dunne wrote:

> Hello all:
>
> I've had my truck less than 1 year, and I wouldn't describe myself as a
> mechanic, so if my questions sound mis-informed, pardon my ignorance.
>
> I bought a bracket from Sacramento Ford to change out the stock master
> cylinder for a dual reservoir type from a late '60s Mustang. I had a '65
> VW Beetle that burst a brake line (single reservoir master cylinder) and
> I'm lucky to be here today after that incident.
>
> My questions:
> 1) I'm keeping the stock drum/drum setup, no power. Do I need a
> proportioning valve to adjust the braking force between the fronts and
> the rears?
>
> 2) How should the brakes be plumbed? I've heard that you split it with
> each outlet connected to 1 front, 1 rear diagonally. Others say its just
> one port connects to the fronts, one to the rears.
>
> Thanks in advance for your suggestions,
>
> BED
> '53 F100
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, removal form on the web |
> | site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

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Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 21:31:22 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: March archives online

March digest archives are now on the web site.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 21:29:03 EST
From: JStoneF100
Subject: Re: Alternator

Please let me put my 2 cents in; My 1960 Ch#vy had a one wire alternator and I
too had to accelerate to 2+ thousand RPM to get it to put-out This is not to
much to ask of an alternator!!!!

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Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 22:06:30 -0500
From: Cathy Greenlaw
Subject: Re: Conversion to dual master cylinder

Bruce Dunne wrote:

> My questions:
> 1) I'm keeping the stock drum/drum setup, no power. Do I need a
> proportioning valve to adjust the braking force between the fronts and
> the rears?
>
> 2) How should the brakes be plumbed? I've heard that you split it with
> each outlet connected to 1 front, 1 rear diagonally. Others say its just
> one port connects to the fronts, one to the rears.

I installed a similar system on a '57 Ford car using a Dodge cylinder
because the cylinder bore was close to Ford size as were the drums and wheel
cylinders, which I'm led to believe is a key to success with these
conversions, as the master cylinder has to move approximately the same volume
of fluid as the stock unit does or the pedal travel will be weird. Make sure
the push rod doesn't bind the return stroke of the cylinder, if the rod is a
bit too long, it may keep the compensating port in cylinder closed and
prevent full retraction of the shoes. You generally shouldn't need a
proportional valve on a drum/drum system, but if rear lock up is a problem
one is easy to retrofit. My advice is to keep it split front/rear; there are
lots of factory diagonals and even 3 ways, but the plumbing problems and
potential for leaks and unbalance is greater.

47 Fred

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Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 22:12:12 -0500
From: Cathy Greenlaw
Subject: Re: Alternator fix maybe

> Now, does anyone know why my alternator on my 83 302 won't kick in until
> I rev the motor a bit, say 2000 rpm. After I do that it kicks in and
> stays on and charges the battery fine, until I shut it down, then I have
> to rev it again to get it back on. I changed the voltage regulator and
> checked the wires, seems OK.

If you feel bold, and have no fear, take the alternator apart and check the
brushes, there's a good chance they are worn and sticking, especially if the
alternator is origional. It's realy not a bad job unless the 3 body bolts
are frozen and break.

47 Fred

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Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 22:30:54 -0500
From: Cathy Greenlaw
Subject: Re: demolition derby demolition

Scott wrote:

> I know that this doesn't have much to do with Ford Trucks but it does
> apply to trucks in a way and is great for the Fory Chevy battle. This
> is a demolition derby site that a friend has sent me and if you guys
> are like me and like to break things you will enjoy it.
> Scott

I wonder how all you restoration people and street rodders feel about
demolition derbies? Personally, I hate them, the people that organize them
and the people that attend them and the people that participate in them,
does that cover it all? When I think about how many would be classics are
busted up, their motors boiled, transmissions cracked and even the darn
axles broken all in the name of "motorsports" it kind of makes me boil
too. Seeing a newsclip of the aftermath of a derby reminds me of those old
photos you see of giant junk yard full of model T's, Duces and A's. In a
perfect world, after long and faith years of toil, all automobiles should
be sent to a large grassy, well drained and shady field to become classics
and be restored to beauty. All except Chevrolets of course, they have go to
a wet sunny field to return to the earth as iron so they can be
reincarnated as something useful.

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Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 19:57:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott
Subject: rear ends

I have found a 1975 Lincoln Mark IV for sale. It has disk all around
and I was wondering if it would have a nine inch in the rear? It has
a nice 460 so I am thinking that it would. My idea is to buy it if it
does and when I do another truck I could use that engine and rear end.
One more thing, how much do you think a nine inch with disk would
sell for and, are the 460's that commen?
Scott




==


1952 Ford Pickup
Please take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9731/
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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