fordtrucks-digest Saturday, April 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 091
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
So you want a stupid story? ["Don & Teresa Neighbors"
RE: Polishing radiator top tanks ["Goodwrench" ]
Tilt Front End ["Ted J. Hanes" ]
Windshield wiper control [Randall Colgan ]
Alternator [billjhs ]
ADMIN: Recent posts lost [Ken Payne ]
radiator [Ray Cardogno ]
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 07:21:31 -0500
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: So you want a stupid story?
I have a stupid Chevy story! A buddy of mine back in my bachelor days had
a '66 Chevelle that we'd sometimes cruise around in. One day he told me he
knew of a place where he could go airborne. This place, which was a "Y"
intersection with a gravel road, was on our route, so when we got there he
floored it, veered off and we did, indeed, go airborne!
The car bottomed out on landing, hitting a sizable rock which cut a gouge
about as big as the one that sunk the Titanic in the gas tank. Strangely,
it didn't begin leaking for a couple of days, but leak it did!
I've simply stripped them with the old methylene chloride paint
removers, such as the ones sold as "Airplane stripper." Didn't seem to
cause any harm to the brass or solder joints at all. I used a brass
wire brush and fine sandpaper after the stripping. Polishing can be
started with the Scotchbrite wheels, or the little pads that can be
mounted on a drill motor. The actual polishing is pretty easy and goes
pretty fast. The only problem is that it is a lot of work to keep them
polished once they are done that way. I don't know if clear coating it
after polishing would help or not. The tank in my '40 Fordor is
polished, and it tarnishes very fast. Simichrome or Brasso on a rag can
bring it back fairly quickly, but it doesn't last. For the radiator in
the '41 half ton, I used the special black paint that Eastwood sells
just for radiators.
Check out Goodwrench's CyberRanch:
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: radiator
> The tops of the radiators (53-56) appear to be brass. Is this so? If
> is, how is the best way to remove the paint and not harm the brass? I
> seen some pictures of trucks with the brass top and it really looks
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 09:04:15 -0600
From: "Ted J. Hanes"
Subject: Tilt Front End
Looking for anyone who has installed a "Fairlane" tilt front end. This
is a fiberglass component and looking for feedback on how it works.
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 18:16:03 -0700
From: "Joe Michels"
Subject: Windshield Wiper Control for 52 F1
I need help figuring out what kind of a control cable I can use to control
the vacuum motor for my 52F1. The original cable is bad, am I have NOT
figured out what/how to use to replace it. All of the classic parts houses
tell me that a vacuum motor control cable is not longer available. Anyone
got any good ideas on how we solve this little challenge?
Do you have your truck converted to a 12 volt system? If you do, you can
install an electric motor conversion kit that is available from most
antique suppliers. One benefit is you'll have wipers going uphills. It's
easy to install too. (including the electric switch).
University of Alberta
1952 F-1 Ford Truck
First let me say thanks to everyone who helped out with my AOD
questions. The answers were all very helpful.
Now, does anyone know why my alternator on my 83 302 won't kick in until
I rev the motor a bit, say 2000 rpm. After I do that it kicks in and
stays on and charges the battery fine, until I shut it down, then I have
to rev it again to get it back on. I changed the voltage regulator and
checked the wires, seems OK.
83' 302 F/I AOD
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 21:49:38 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Recent posts lost
Due to a configuration error on my part, several emails
didn't get posted to the lists, especially if you use
a Microsoft email product. This has now been corrected.
Wait a few hours and if you post doesn't show up, send it again.
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>The tops of the radiators (53-56) appear to be brass. Is this so an if it
>is how is the best way to remove the paint and not harm the brass. I have
>seen some pictures of trucks with the brass top and it really looks sharp.
I used paint remover first. Then hand polished it with "Magic wadding
polish" (the stuff that comes in the can, really stinks, and looks like old
dirty compressed cotton). Then, I finally sprayed it with clear laquer.
This worked good for me. I would have been tempted to polish it with a
buffing wheel with jewelers rouge, but I find it smears the surface of the
soft metal. Anyone else done this any other way?
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