fordtrucks-digest Friday, April 3 1998 Volume 02 : Number 090



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Giving in to a Compulsion ["Don & Teresa Neighbors" ]
Re: bolt on hp [Thomas Teixeira ]
Cooling flatheads with VASELINE? [Alec Fernandez ]
Re: Need Mid Fifties front shock mounts. [AZYacht ]
1933 Ford truck [ikusano aec-able.com (Ibuki Kusano)]
RE: Giving in to a Compulsion ["Goodwrench" ]
Re: 4 wheel disk set-up [Justin McCrite ]
Re: First Restoration? [Justin McCrite ]
Re: cooling flatheads [sdelanty ]
Re: Cooling flatheads with beer & VASELINE? [Cathy Greenlaw
Windshield Wiper Control for 52 F1 ["Joe Michels" ]
ram horns [KLaff61624 ]
Re: Windshield Wiper Control for 52 F1 ["Mike Smith"
vin numbers [David Stokes ]
radiator [David Stokes ]

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Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 06:37:28 -0500
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: Giving in to a Compulsion

Long ago I saw in "Cartoons" magazine something that you flathead guys may
already know, but I am going to share it any way:

"Old flatheads never die, they just overheat!"

I feel much better now, thank you.

Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:46:18 -0500
From: Thomas Teixeira
Subject: Re: bolt on hp

At 1:54 PM -0700 4/1/98, Justin McCrite wrote:
>Just out of curiosity. What is the difference between the cleaveland and
>windsor? They're both 351 cubes, right? So what's the difference. I had to
>sell
>my '58 for financial reasons, but plan on building a 351 for my next
>truck. I've
>always wondered what the difference was between the two.

The big difference is cylinder heads. 351 Clevelands have larger valves and
better flowing heads. The traditional line is that Cleveland engines rev
higher and produce more horse power but have less torque at low RPM's.
There are major differences in where the coolant flows through the heads
between Windsor and Cleveland heads and some corresponding differences in
the blocks.

Tom Teixeira

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:42:19 -0500
From: Alec Fernandez
Subject: Cooling flatheads with VASELINE?

Folks,

I think what you are arguing about is the difference in the merits of
education versus experience. No question that experience rules supreme.
The crazy thing is that a lot of folks can provide a remedy to a problem
but I like to ask the next question: Why did that fix it? If you
can't find out then it can help you fix the next problem that comes up.

Here goes another plausible solution:

I brew beer and in the process you have to pump water at temperatures
approaching boiling. If you run the pump with no back pressure, the water
in the impellers turns to water vapor and the pump just cavitates and
nothing comes out. If you raise the output hose up about 6 - 8 feet this
water column creates enough back pressure that the water remains liquid
in the pump housing and the pump moves the water quite nicely. Perhaps
the thermostat, 3/4 inch washer, or whatever flow restricting device you
use simply creates this back pressure necessary to keep the pump from
cavitating.

It occurs to me that if we could get you folks with experience to talk
to the folks with the knowledge of thermal and fluid dynamics then we
would really have something worthwhile here.

Now on this vaseline thing (doesn't sound like I've won any converts yet
does it?) I'm tellin' you, the guy who showed me this builds engines
for the local stip racers and he builds many engines and does this to
all of them. He uses a big oil pressure gauge that he screws into
a port and runs the drill until he gets 50 pounds or so (this happens
right off the bat) then somebody uses a rachet to slowly turn the engine
and pretty soon you see all kinds of oil in the valve gallery. He takes
the engine through 5-10 slow rotations until the dips in pressure are
gone and then puts it all together. The only reason for the vaseline is
to prime the oil pump, if you can do this with oil then all the better.
Maybe they're using high volume/pressure racing pumps and these don't
prime themselves, or maybe if you're refreshing a quarter mile engine
and re-use the pump then the clearances are such that it won't prime
itself. The point is that if you don't get oil pressure on the gauge
then you need to do something to prime the pump. Hey wait a minute,
maybe I need to tell my buddy to reverse the drill????

Besides, now that I've got kids I needed to find something to do with
all that vaseline ;-)

Oh and '47 Fred the engine through the winshield trick was pretty good.
I wish I had a nickel for every afternoon I've spent undoing something
stupid I did the day before. In fact, I'm looking for '56 fenders right
now after totalling some poor lady in a Volvo while fiddling with the
horn button in my '56... I'm just thankful that nobody got hurt but if
they ever start giving out stupid awards, you guys just form a line
behind me.

Alec
Wrecked '56 F-1 in the garage which relegated the completely dissambled
and partially restored '67 Mustang to the attic (yes friends and neighbors
it's all up there but the unibody) which relegated your's truly to the
dog house... and to top it all off my dog snores so loud I can't sleep!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 11:01:07 EST
From: AZYacht
Subject: Re: Need Mid Fifties front shock mounts.

Jeff,
I appreciate the response.
I will call my REAL mechanic buddy this afternoon and ask if they fit our
needs and get right back to you.
Gary O.
gilasailr aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 08:36:15 -0800
From: ikusano aec-able.com (Ibuki Kusano)
Subject: 1933 Ford truck

Hi guys, I=92m new to this group and hope that someone may be able to help=
me
find parts that I need.=20
I=92m the proud owner of a 1993 Ford 1 =BD ton dump truck that I just got it
running and start to work on the brakes. When I bought the truck from a
friend, he gave me a after market vacuum brake booster (Burdick Power
Brake), the vacuum cylinder hooks to the main mechanical linkage with a 6
in. long arm that gives it a little extra advantage. The vacuum works great.
It pulls the pedal to the metal, but the only problem is that I don=92t have
the regulator or valve which would control the amount of vacuum to the can.
What I need is some info on what this thing would look like and how it
works/ hooks up. I=92ve searched on the net and looked in Heaming=92s, but=
had
no luck.=20
I=92m hoping that someone could help me with this problem. Thank you.=20
Got a dump, need to stop
Aaron Aho

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Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:38:30 -0600
From: "Goodwrench"
Subject: RE: Giving in to a Compulsion

I'd always heard that "Old truckers never die, they just get a new
Peterbilt."

goodwrench easy.com
Check out Goodwrench's CyberRanch:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.easy.com/goodwrench/

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Long ago I saw in "Cartoons" magazine something that you flathead guys
may already know, but I am going to share it any way:
>
> "Old flatheads never die, they just overheat!"
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 14:25:45 -0700
From: Justin McCrite
Subject: Re: 4 wheel disk set-up

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You should run some type of proportioning valve. Your front calipers
will need more pressure than the rear, because the front of a vehicle
has the most weight.

Tim Baker wrote:

> Hello I was wandering if any of you know if I need to run residual
> pressure valves on a 4 wheel disk setup---I am using a corvette master
> cylinder--I have been told I don't need one and that I need to run 2lb
> in both the front and rear circuits. Your help is appreciated.



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You should run some type of proportioning valve. Your front calipers will
need more pressure than the rear, because the front of a vehicle has the
most weight.

Tim Baker wrote:
 Hello I
was wandering if any of you know if I need to run residual pressure valves
on a 4 wheel disk setup---I am using a corvette master cylinder--I have
been told I don't need one and that I need to run 2lb in both the front
and rear circuits.  Your help is appreciated.
 



- --------------2CBF0DDAF7DBD9A0828128FD--

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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 14:40:51 -0700
From: Justin McCrite
Subject: Re: First Restoration?

I don't think there is a part, original or custom, that you can't get for a '53
to'56. Bob's F100's even has a whole yard full of used parts that they'll clean up
and send to you.

PhatStang wrote:

> Hey there all. I'm a 16 yr. old guy and am wanting to do my first
> restoration. I do not know what to restore though. I would like a '55 or so
> pickup, but i have heard that they can be hard, due to the limited parts.
> People have told me to go for a late 60's, but im not really to fond of them,
> though they are ok too. I most would like (even though I know this is off the
> Truck category) is a '65 Mustang. I am only 16 remember, but would love to
> have an old car, so i am on a somewhat constricted budget. If anyone has any
> input on their suggestion, or ideas, or what so evr. Please Respond. I'd
> appreciate it.
>
> Thanx,
> Dan
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, removal form on the web |
> | site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 15:32:24 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: cooling flatheads

Roger wrote:
>Folks I don't believe very much of this.

>Of course there is a thermal layer of coolant near the tube wall in a
>radiator. That's what laminar flow is, and it exists in a radiator tube.
>But the faster the coolant flows, the more turbulant the flow the less
>thermal layer there is and the more heat is transferred to the tube walls
>where it can be transferred to the air going through it.

> But I too get offended when I hear how dumb things
>are ascribed to engineers and modern technology. And I just listened to a
>pile of this logic on another list and couldn't stand it no more. Now if
>someone wishes to dispute this I will happily listen as long as reasonable
>arguments are presented instead of arm waving and "these old guys can't be
>wrong". Yes old ideas do work but if you don't know why just say so. Now
>donning flameproof undies. 8 )
>Regards,
>Roger Meier

Thank You Roger!
It is amazing how often this subject comes up on the various auto
list's isn't it?
I can believe that "too much" coolant flow may be detrimental, for the
reasons You listed, plus the fact that at high flow rates the coolant
may take a "non-ideal" path thru the block, moving fast enough that it's
harder to make some of the tight turns in the passages and leading
to local "hot spots".
But the whole idea of the coolant moving "too fast" to transfer it's
heat load is a bunch of hogwash! It just runs against too much basic
physics unless You live somewhere that gravity doesn't work,
E does not = MC squared, and the speed of light is slower than a man
can walk...
It's an old wives tale, like "storing Your battery on concrete will
ruin it", or "putting multi-vis detergent oil in Your flathead will
ruin it".
Even the old wives don't believe these much anymore...

If I can force the right books to the top of the stack, I'll post some
math about why the "too fast to transfer heat" theory is a bunch of B.S.
Nuthin but bad craziness...

Not buying it for an instant,

Steve

Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.
-- T. S. Eliot

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 18:44:24 -0500
From: Cathy Greenlaw
Subject: Re: Cooling flatheads with beer & VASELINE?

Now this Alec fellow is my kind of guy, he makes his own beer with a flathead
water pump, keeps his eyes open for innovative uses of vasoline, probably on
the Treasury agents looking for the beer, stores the 'stang in the attic and
sleeps with the dog. I thought I had it rough when my spouse threatened to
take photographs of my current hulk collection, then allowed that she didn't
have enough film. I hope she doesn't turn up the air cleaner under the bed.
Alec, you've go to stand up for yourself, my God man, shoot for the couch at
least, if that dog takes off your arm at night, you'll never get the truck
fixed.

The main point is, seriously, that everybody has a favorite method that works
for them, and there really isn't one right way. If you are comfortable with
your plan, do it. Let the rest just wonder, after all you can't please
everyone. The point about rolling the engine over while prelubing is an
excellent one that I neglected to mention, if you don't roll the crank, some
of the passages won't fill properly.

I wonder how many of you other Ford Freaks out there have a "stupid" story to
tell? Come on folks, bare your souls, life isn't all missing parts. I've got
one about a runaway Mustang for tomorrow.

47 Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 18:16:03 -0700
From: "Joe Michels"
Subject: Windshield Wiper Control for 52 F1

I need help figuring out what kind of a control cable I can use to control
the vacuum motor for my 52F1. The original cable is bad, am I have NOT
figured out what/how to use to replace it. All of the classic parts houses
tell me that a vacuum motor control cable is not longer available. Anyone
got any good ideas on how we solve this little challenge?

Joebob

- ----------
> From: Justin McCrite
> To: fordtrucks listservice.net
> Subject: Re: First Restoration?
> Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 2:40 PM
>
> I don't think there is a part, original or custom, that you can't get for
a '53
> to'56. Bob's F100's even has a whole yard full of used parts that they'll
clean up
> and send to you.
>
> PhatStang wrote:
>
> > Hey there all. I'm a 16 yr. old guy and am wanting to do my first
> > restoration. I do not know what to restore though. I would like a '55
or so
> > pickup, but i have heard that they can be hard, due to the limited
parts.
> > People have told me to go for a late 60's, but im not really to fond of
them,
> > though they are ok too. I most would like (even though I know this is
off the
> > Truck category) is a '65 Mustang. I am only 16 remember, but would
love to
> > have an old car, so i am on a somewhat constricted budget. If anyone
has any
> > input on their suggestion, or ideas, or what so evr. Please Respond.
I'd
> > appreciate it.
> >
> > Thanx,
> > Dan
> > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> > | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, removal form on the web |
> > | site. |
> > +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, removal form on the web |
> | site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 20:43:55 EST
From: KLaff61624
Subject: ram horns

56Merc, The manifolds I found are casting #'s drivers side COTE 9430A,
passenger side COTE 9480A . The bolt pattern is not straight across, sorry
I'll keep looking. Ken

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 22:54:12 -0600
From: "Mike Smith"
Subject: Re: Windshield Wiper Control for 52 F1

- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Michels
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 7:17 PM
Subject: Windshield Wiper Control for 52 F1


>I need help figuring out what kind of a control cable I can use to control
>the vacuum motor for my 52F1. The original cable is bad, am I have NOT
>figured out what/how to use to replace it. All of the classic parts houses
>tell me that a vacuum motor control cable is not longer available. Anyone
>got any good ideas on how we solve this little challenge?
>
>Joebob


Try a choke cable, the ones that are solid wire. This is what the previous
owner
used on my 51 F1. They made one small mistake though, they routed it under
the
cowl vent so it rusts and becomes useless after the spring rains and the
winter
snows.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 22:17:28 -0800 (PST)
From: David Stokes
Subject: vin numbers

I just want to thank all of you who responded to my request for help in
....


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