Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 03:50:14 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V2 #85
Reply-To: fordtrucks
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest

fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, March 31 1998 Volume 02 : Number 085

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Need Mid Fifties front shock mounts. [JStoneF100 ]
top chop information [Jack Sturgis ]
Re: 1948 F-1 Bumper Attachment Question ["Paul T. Clegg"
RE: new motor start-up [Alec Fernandez ]
Re: 47 Street Rod inquiry ["S. Ainey" ]
Re: Need Mid Fifties front shock mounts. [AZYacht ]
bolt on hp [jc & terry ]
Fuel Supply Problem [FRD56F100 ]



Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 07:51:21 EST
From: JStoneF100
Subject: Re: Need Mid Fifties front shock mounts.

I'll be removing my front suspension soon and will have front end parts
available.If 59 parts will work let me know and we can make arrangments to get
them too you.....


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:19:20 -0800
From: Jack Sturgis
Subject: top chop information

I have seen several postings for top chop information and I thought I'd
pass a little of my fun along. I finally have pictures and a couple of
drawings to help you with the chop of an F-1 or F-100. There are more
pictures on the way, but I'd like to invite everyone to stop by my
Website and check out the chop page...

Jack Sturgis


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:20:50 -0700
From: "Paul T. Clegg"
Subject: Re: 1948 F-1 Bumper Attachment Question

I just bought a front bumper from Dennis Carpenter. It is perfect but I
don't understand the hardware they sent with it. (This is the hardware
that attaches the bumper to the small bracket on the lower surface and the
bumper directly to the frame on the upper surface). It has round-head
allen bolts with acorn nuts. My question is... which way do I install
these bolts. Do the acorn nuts go on top? They would stick up nearly half
and inch above the bumper. The round head allen end would be nearly flush
if installed the opposite way. Any advice would be sincerely appreciated.
Thanks, Paul Clegg, paulc


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:31:08 -0500
From: Alec Fernandez
Subject: RE: new motor start-up

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cathy Greenlaw [SMTP:ZELDA_1]
> Sent: Friday, March 27, 1998 7:43 PM
> To: fordtrucks
> Subject: Re: new motor start-up
> Alec Fernandez wrote:
> > The one thing I would add to this is to pack the oil pump and pickup
> tube
> > with vaseline
> > before you assemble it.
> I suppose this would work, I would be weary of duping Vasoline into some
> small
> oil passage in the crank or somewhere, I suppose most of it would go in
> the
> filter. When I assemble a new oil pump, I just pour some oil into it and
> put it
> on, and never had a problem. I should mention that you often need a
> reversable
> drill motor to prime the pump. I like to went nuts once with a 302, and
> almost
> took the pan back off until I reversed the drill.47 Fred
[Alec Fernandez]
Actually, the vaseline completely "goes away" once it gets heated a
litte and it sits
harmlessly in the oil filter until then. This was a trick a shop
machinist showed me and
he builds engines for a living. You can heat some vaseline on the
stove and see for
yourself, doesn't have to get very hot at all and it won't
recongeal. I too was skeptical
at first.

The problem with oil is that it won't stay in the pump and can just
run out the pickup
tube, then when you spin the pump with the drill motor it just
Could be that theses older engines just don't have the problem and
will always suck the oil up and prime themselves but if not then
you're stuck taking
the oil pan back off though this isn't the end of the world even if
you do end up
doing it.

Besides, who are you gonna believe, me or someone who doesn't know
which way
to spin an oil pump! ;-) ;-) ;-)


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Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:26:25 -0800
From: "S. Ainey"
Subject: Re: 47 Street Rod inquiry

Cathy Greenlaw wrote:
> Brechtjohn wrote:
> > Are you certain that the 3/4 ton bed was to the '55 frame or was it a '47 bed
> > Was the '47 flathead (what a beautiful engine, the flathead V8) in the '55
> > frame as well?
> The initial truck is a 55-56 frame with a 55-56 style long box, with a '47 style
> cab. The flattie is in an original '47 truck, with a '47 bed which is going with
> the cab from the 55 frame. I hope this whacking and hacking doesn't upset the
> restoration contingent, but both of these trucks were down the road a long way. A
> really dedicated person could probably fix the '47, but it would be tough.

I might be interested in the flathead if it's in decent shape. What
kind of price
were you looking at for it? Also, you wouldn't happen to know what the
in the cylinders is do you?

Steve Ainey

39 1/2 ton Original running drivetrain


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 21:57:43 EST
From: AZYacht
Subject: Re: Need Mid Fifties front shock mounts.

Thank you for your reply.
I am envious of you guys with IFS and a real modern ride; but for the next 5
years or so we are going with the 'truck' ride and handling ( lack of ).
I think the mounts from your truck will work to the best of my knowledge (
limited ).
Tell me what you want for them and we can go ahead.
Thanks again for helping to recycle the parts.
Gary O. 47 1/2 Panel


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:24:06 -0800
From: jc & terry
Subject: bolt on hp

stock late 70's 351W is only rated about 145Hp, give or take a few, but I
>think its one of the most overlooked and best motors out there. Its got a
>good oil system, its relatively small and light and because it's a tall
>block version of the 302, lots of good stuff is out there. Using Summit
>Racing, a M6250A351 cam with 204 intake and 214 exhaust duration and .448 &
>.472" lift is $80, a set of lifters, Summit brand, is $34, a roller timing
>chain and sprockets is $40. A package deal of Edelbrock manifold, 600 cfm
>holley, gaskets and air cleaner is $335.A set of headers goes for $80, but
>may be lots more to get a set that fits an early truck. Total : $570, about
>300HP. Don't pay any attention to T"Chevy"Bird Terry, 351/302 stuff is darn
>near the same money these days. All this stuff is mild enought that you
>won't need engine or head work unless the motor is trash now.
this is good tecnical info and i could't agree more. the windsor is a good
streetable engine that is many times overlooked because of the hype
surrounding the cleveland. price is pretty accurate also if you know how to
set lifters and replace a cam. even if you don't shouldn't be hard to find a
buddy that does. see this is what i like to get out of people. facts, not
just ford v. chevy crap. you have a good foundation. build on it. but just
so you can't say i never told ya, your still gonna be about 100 horses short
of the "old red dog" and the parts are close to identical. now let's see if
you can figure out what i did just little different.


Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 23:58:31 EST
From: FRD56F100
Subject: Fuel Supply Problem

Hello everyone, I am currently having a problem with my 56 F100 and maybe
somebody in the list can help me.
My first problem is that the gas in the fuel tank just won't get to the
carburator. I've replaced the complete fuel line from the gas tank to the
carburator, replaced the fuel sender and the filter in it, and repaired a
small gas tank leak with a loctite gas tank repair sealer. The gas tank is
placed underneath the bed floor and is not the original tank. Also, the fuel
sender assembly does not have a return line, the original tank did not have
one either. The fuel pump is OK and the carburator filter is not clogged. I
have driven the truck with a five gallon container full of fuel inside the cab
with a hose connected to the fuel pump, the truck runs OK this way. The only
thing left is replacing the fuel tank but I been having a hard time finding
one locally. I just wish there was a way to solve this problem, is really
driving me nuts. Another thing, I bought a fuel gauge at a Super Shop store
and it won't work, it is wired correctly and the gauge works fine, I tested....

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