fordtrucks-digest Monday, March 30 1998 Volume 02 : Number 084
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
ram-horn exhaust manifolds [MARK AMES ]
Re: '51 F5 Owner's Manual [Ken Payne ]
Re:more About that 360... [sdelanty ]
FW: ram's horn manifold ["Neal B. Forbes" ]
460 Licoln or 460 Truck [PhatStang ]
Leaf Springs [OBKBEE ]
Re: tilt front [OBKBEE ]
Re: bodyfiller [OBKBEE ]
Re: new motor start-up [OBKBEE ]
Re: 460 Performance? [Cdalep ]
460 ["Bart Munns" ]
Re: 460 [PhatStang ]
Re: '54 Spring/Shock shackle assembly [JRFiero ]
lowered '52 [Flathead52 ]
Bed time (floor replacement) [sdelanty ]
Whiter whites, brighter brights [sdelanty ]
Need Mid Fifties front shock mounts. [AZYacht ]
Re: NEW MOTOR START UP [Brechtjohn ]
Re: NEW MOTOR START UP ["Earl T. Ingram, III" ]
Thought this might interest someone [RJC988 ]
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 07:07:56 -0600
From: MARK AMES
Subject: ram-horn exhaust manifolds
I have seen two different types of ram-horn exhaust manifolds for the Y-block, one type has squared off runners, (they look a lot like the chevy ram-horns) this was a option on bigger trucks that were ordered with dual exhaust. My father had a 64 F600 tandem axel with these, the other type is found on the 58-64 C-600 (cabover) trucks. (also this is a guess on the years) This was the truck that was cube shaped with the driver right up by the windshield. these ram-horn exhaust manifolds are very rounded and "look" like ram-horns. Also on the bigger trucks larger than F600 of the late 50's with the 332 motor have ram-horn manifolds, the Y-block ram-horns look just like these, but the 332 ones will not fit a Y-block, the bolt pattern on a Y-block is strait across all the holes. While the 332 ones have a staggered diagonal pattern. Oh buy the way I'm looking for a pair of ram-horn manifolds. (getting tired of asking in the chat room if anyone knows of any? 56Merc) Also stil!
l looking for a 56 Mercury half ton pickup.
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 10:51:40 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: '51 F5 Owner's Manual
At 04:49 PM 3/23/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Where can I find an original (or copy) owner's manual for this truck?
Try Jim Osborne Reproductions. Do a web search on AltaVista.
They have a site. Just got a tour of the place last week.
He has a huge stack of original (used) manuals and new
- -Ken Payne
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 09:43:32 -0800
Subject: Re:more About that 360...
>Don & Teresa make some good points here, but to be picky, the 360 is 4.000
Naw, to be even pickier, the 352 bore is 4.000", the 360/390 bore is 4.050"
The FE family looks like this:
332= 4.00" x 3.30"
352= 4.00" x 3.500"
360= 4.05" x 3.500"
390= 4.05" x 3.784"
406= 4.13" x 3.784"
410= 4.05" x 3.984"
427= 4.25" x 3.784"
428= 4.13" x 3.984"
> The 390 crank is the same as the 427's for what that worth.
Same stroke, but *some* 427 cranks are steel.
The cast ones are the same as 390.
>I heard the
>story that the reason the 360 is called that instead of a 352 which it is,
>the 352 had a bad reputation as a powerless and troublesome gas hog, which
is not a
>good way to market your products.
Gas hog, Yes.
Troublesome? Not even! The 352 is as reliable as any other FE, and that's
saying a lot!
Powerless? Well, some are but the 1958-60 4V 352 was rated at 300HP
and the "Hi-perf" 4V 352 was rated at 360HP 6000RPM and 380Ft.Lbs. 3400RPM.
Comp ratio was 10.6:1. (From Pat Ganahl's "Ford Performance")
Nuthin wrong with a nicely built 352!
My uncle has a 352 in his '62 Mercury, and it pulls the heavy sled around
with lots of get up and go!
I love deadlines. I especially like the
whooshing sound they make as they go flying by.
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 12:49:44 -0500
From: "Neal B. Forbes"
Subject: FW: ram's horn manifold
From: Neal B. Forbes[SMTP:jawbreaker harborcom.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 1998 9:09 AM
To: 'fordtrucks ListService.net'
Subject: RE: ram's horn manifold
The Y-Block has stacked intake/exhaust ports, so the standard manifolds are
upswept and join in a "log" style connector that exists to the front on the
left, connects to the right via plain steel crossover pipe in front of the
engine and then dumps low and to the rear. The Ram's Horn style are not
connected, they are upswept, curving to the center and the dropping between
the two middle cylinders. They look like ram's horns!!
BTW, I got my Unilte running. It was all timing. I put a volmeter on the
brown wire to the coil and confirmed that I had power to the coil. I
replaced the points and condenser, got the engine started, timed it, then
put the Unilite back in. Started instantly and runs great without a
module. I guess the timing tolerance is too narrow with the shutter in
place. I tried this approach because, of course, the coil will not release
its voltage with out the circuit being closed. The points do this and so
does the optical sensor in the Unilite. It was so simple, I feel really
dumb having to ask. The brown wire in the harness is a ballast resistor
bypass so that the battery puts its full charge to the starter motor and to
the coil when starting. One the key is released, the ignition switch
changes the circuit route back through the ballast resistor.
Tanks for all the input!! Hot Heap Forbes
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 12:57:31 EST
Subject: 460 Licoln or 460 Truck
Hey I know ive been asking alot of questions about the 460 motor, so now i
have some more. I love what ive heard about the 460, and would love to get
one. I want to know what the difference is between when I see that someone
has a 460 Lincoln in their truck and when ive seen truck in the late 70 that
naturally had the 460. What is the difference between these two motors or are
they the same? If someone can answer this question it would be appreciated.
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 16:26:23 EST
Subject: Leaf Springs
I ordered new stubby rear leaf spring Y hngr's from B's F-100's to lower my
Panel and mono leafs.The springs are just old semi-tractor trailer ones that
look great. The Y hangers, what garbage. 40 bucks a piece and Manufactured in
INDONESIA or Swazie Land. I don't mean to inferr that foreign stuff is bad but
c'mon, if it don't look right, more'n likely it won't work for longevity. The
castings came all pitted and rough. Sure they're painted black but they look
100 years old. The bushings press into a sleeve in the hangar that looks like
a copper insert, but it's all pitted inside it. A friend of mine lookled at
the old ones after I cleaned them up and thought they were new, and the new
ones were the old ones painted. Is there a supplier that deals in AMERICA, and
why don't they tell us if we are buying Americanb.
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 16:26:40 EST
Subject: Re: tilt front
you had written
bay from the front becomes impossible with the tilt front end. This is
significant, since many people are accustomed to working from the front
for many common jobs. Also lighting during wrenching becomes a more
serious issue because the engine bay will now be shaded from three sides
instead of just two. >>
I have to disagree a bit Chris, I found just the oppposite with my 56' P/U.
I allowed enough room for the front to tilt foreward almost 90 degrees, most
conversions I have seen only give you a 40(puke, there's not enough room to
pick your nose) degree angle, up to a sixty or so. Yeah, you can't see doodly
that way. I couldn't, find a hinging mechanism that would give enough opening.
I used a triangle shaped garage door hinge (10") but I found it loose (the
hinge pin). I was in Value Hrdwre and now they make those hinges with a hard
plastic lining in the hinge mechanism itself. No wobble, tight, and quiet. I
am trying to do a 55' Panel now the same way with the front end and hinge the
bottom of the back doors individually so they can lower as a ramp 4 my
At first I put a wedge in to limit the travel, thus lessening the open
angle, but after trying to "pick my nose" found it redic. I let the hinge
itself act as it's own stop and there was enough light to do dentistry! And
the best part is that access to "everything" is 100%.
It's cheap $7.50 for two hinges.
$.79 for 6x4 backing plates to add strength the hinge attachment point on
the air deflector. This time I anm going to use 10 x 10 pieces to add more
strength. I have to accomplish the tilt function with the assist of
hydraulics, front and rear. You might guive consideration to connecting the
air deflectors to each other by a a piece of 1/4" stock right above the
hinges, deflector to deflector for added strenght. Nut and bolt it, don't
rivet, they work loose, nothing worse than having to wipe off working rivet
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 16:26:41 EST
Subject: Re: bodyfiller
Dust dirt debri, whatever, I was wasting more filller, paper and time. Two
ways I dealt with it. As the putty set up and was warm to the touch, semi-set,
I took a fine hand held cheese grater. It removes that surface gum just
enough, then just waited a few minutes for it to cure .. It sounds rediculous
but I also used MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) it evaporates but it breaks that gum
surface. Remember to wear rubber gloves! MEK is cancer causing if left to open
skin. It could be as simple as needing a bit more hardner. But you gotta be
quick in working with it so it sets up already formed.
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 16:26:42 EST
Subject: Re: new motor start-up
I think that it is important to consider you bearing clearances in the block.
If they were tight within .003 to .005 you want to keep it below 1800 rpm for
the first 15 min. Pre-oiling with a drill motor attached to the oil pump is
the only way to go. MAKE SURE there is oil flowing freely from ALL push rods
to ensure proper lubrication. I wrecked a new motor by not doing this
competely. And then after you have run it for 30 to 40 minutes-CHANGE THE OIL
& FILTER. It doesn't matter how good the machining, humans are fallable and
mistakes are inevitable. Be on the precautionary side, inspect you oil after
you change it. Run a magnet around the old oil to see how much metal came out.
If it's loaded, trouble. That MMO treatment is great too. Gives excellent
results for your valve train, keeps it gunk free. Keep an eye on your temp,
new and tight builds heat. Definitely use a reverseable drill to prime and by
doing this, I would not put vaseline, I have never tried that but to each his
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 18:35:03 EST
Subject: Re: 460 Performance?
Just a quick note about 460 's . Im on my third vehicle ( truck and vans ) and
I havent found anything more dependable. My 78 F-250 has 210,000 miles and my
85 E-350 has 245,000 miles each one needs a quart of oil at 1500 miles and I
always change oil at 3000. Neither one has ever been opened up or overhauled,
just the normal stuff like alternators etc.
On the Subject of the 460---- Go for it. I have a 460 out of a Mercury
Grand Marquis, I get an average of 20-25 miles to the gallon, hove over
100k miles on it, and it can still kick the snot out of any chevy engine
that there ever was.
As for accesories, get magazines such as JC Whitney, or Summit Racing,
you can get chrome dress kits, headers, carbs, blowers, whatever you
need. 460's the way to go
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 21:15:37 EST
Subject: Re: 460
20-25 miles to the gallon on a 460? realy r u sure? E-mail me back
witha double check.
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 21:20:21 EST
Subject: Re: '54 Spring/Shock shackle assembly
In a message dated 98-03-28 18:59:08 EST, you write:
>>>There is a plate attached to the bottom of each rear leaf spring using
>>>shackle "U" bolts. This plate serves as the bottom mounting mechanism for
>>>the rear shock absorber. The plate on both sides of my truck is badly
>>>rusted out and coming apart. Both the plates and shocks need
>>>replaced.....but I can't find these plates anywhere! I've checked all of
>>>my web sites and catalogues for parts (Mac's, etc) and no one lists the
>>>part. Anyone have any ideas on possible sources, or an idea of how I
>>>get them fabricated? All suggestions appreciated.
I doubt you'll find them new, you'll have to find a recycler of old
Ford trucks, or someone who changed rear ends and didn't use the original
bottom seat. 'Seat' is what its called, and for 53/56, part # TAAA 5799A is
the left side, B6C 5798A is the right side. My book (original Ford Truck
Parts and Accessories, Text and Illustration Catalogs) seems a little confused
on the 56 part #s, listing 53/56 as above, but also 56 left side as B6C 5799A.
I suspect any from those years will work. Its possible later years will work,
book stops at 56. Different part numbers for 48/52.
Side note - I'm amazed they're rusted, and the rest of the truck still
exists. Never heard of such a thing, and I've seen some pretty rusty ol'
buckets with perfectly good spring seats.
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 22:19:10 EST
Subject: lowered '52
I hope someone can help me, I have a '52 F-1 that I'm building it into a
fifty's style hot rod. I have lowered the truck by flipping the axle on top of
the springs both front and back. I have lost the measurements I took before I
started. Can someone with a stock '52 F-1 truck measure the distance from the
ground to the bottom of the bumpers front and back and the running boards?
Also list what size tire you have on the truck.
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 19:45:44 -0800
Subject: Bed time (floor replacement)
I asked the 61-79 list about this, but You guys probably have
more experiance. It's for a '71 F100 flairside...
So, this spring I'm gonna replace the wood floor planks in my truckbed
with some nice oak planks all milled up like the origionals, with
stainless steel flatbar to replace the beat up origional steel divider
My questions are these:
How heavy is the bed? Once it's unbolted can 2 people pick it and
move it, or do I need to buy a 12 pack and invite more friends?
It looks kind of awkward and "floppy", just 3 sides and a tailgate...
Any good advise, tips, warnings, etc, on removing/replacing the bed?
What should I do to protect the oak? I'm undecided whether to paint
the wood with a plastic "Varathane" type coating, or to just use some
kind of oil on the wood to waterproof it.
Anyone got some thoughts for me on this one?
Surely someone out there has replaced the bed floor in their truck and
has some words of wisdom for me...
All thoughts welcome, thanks!
Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.
-- T. S. Eliot
I was unhappy about how my headlights weren't as bright as I thought
they should be, and I did some wiring upgrades on my truck which
helped immensely. The lights are *much* brighter now, and I was so
pleased with the results I wrote a "how to" article with some
schematics included. My buddy Deacon Blue designed a web page for it
which can be found at:
If You think the lights on Your old truck should be brighter, You
might read the article and see if it's for You...
Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.
-- T. S. Eliot
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 22:54:49 EST
Subject: Need Mid Fifties front shock mounts.
I am in need of 55 - 56 1/2 ton p/u front shock mounts for the update of my
Anyone out there that has done the IFS thing and has these parts laying
I know it takes up space to 'save' all the stuff we take off of these things
but it sure is helpful to someone else to be able to pass on a much needed
I have some 47 1/2 ton parts if needed.
Need 55-56 1/2 ton front shock mounts (uppers) Thanks in advance.
Truckin my blues away.
Gary O 47 1/2 Panel
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 23:35:41 EST
Subject: Re: NEW MOTOR START UP
i REBUILT A 40 FALTHEAD LAST YEAR. TODAY I WAS ON A NICE SPRING TIME DRIVE
ADMIRING ITS THROATY RESONANCE. i DONT HAVE A RADIO IN MY 40 BU THE SOUND OF
THE FLATHEAD IS PLEASURE ENOUGH.
WATCH THE TEMP GUAGE CLOSELY, ANY SIGN OF OVER HEATING. CUT IT OFF!!! LET IT
COOL AND TRY IT AGAIN. UNTIL YOU HAVE THE HEATING PROBLEM SOLVED, OR ANY AIR
POCKETS IN THE WATER JACKET WORK THEMSELVE OUT. iF YOU CAN CRANK THE ENGINE
WITH OUT SPARK, THAT IS A GOOD WAY TO PRIME THE OIL PUMP AND GET LUB TO THE
BEARINGS. iF ANY OF YOUR TOP END COMPONENTS ARN'T REBUILT OR IN GOOD WORKING
ORDER. NOW IS WHEN YOU WILL FIND OUT. A NEW ENGINE MAGNIFIES PROBLEMS IN
CARB DISTRIBUTOR ETC.
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 00:52:54 -0500
From: "Earl T. Ingram, III"
Subject: Re: NEW MOTOR START UP
At 11:35 PM 3/29/98 EST, you wrote:
> i REBUILT A 40 FALTHEAD LAST YEAR. TODAY I WAS ON A NICE SPRING TIME DRIVE
>ADMIRING ITS THROATY RESONANCE. i DONT HAVE A RADIO IN MY 40 BU THE SOUND OF
>THE FLATHEAD IS PLEASURE ENOUGH.
>WATCH THE TEMP GUAGE CLOSELY, ANY SIGN OF OVER HEATING. CUT IT OFF!!! LET IT
>COOL AND TRY IT AGAIN. UNTIL YOU HAVE THE HEATING PROBLEM SOLVED, OR ANY AIR
>POCKETS IN THE WATER JACKET WORK THEMSELVE OUT. iF YOU CAN CRANK THE ENGINE
>WITH OUT SPARK, THAT IS A GOOD WAY TO PRIME THE OIL PUMP AND GET LUB TO THE
>BEARINGS. iF ANY OF YOUR TOP END COMPONENTS ARN'T REBUILT OR IN GOOD WORKING
>ORDER. NOW IS WHEN YOU WILL FIND OUT. A NEW ENGINE MAGNIFIES PROBLEMS IN
>CARB DISTRIBUTOR ETC.
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, removal form on the web |
>| site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>OK guys...Listen up..Here is the scoop on how to keep that flattop cool.
It's going to sound off the wall but I've done it on the street and on the
track and beleave me it works..
First you have to understand that the problem is not a lack of cooling
capacity but too much pumping ability. To start with braze a 3/4 inch flat
washer into both of the thermostat housings. Yes children, we are going to
RESTRICT the flow of water. Install a 180 degree thermostat in both sides.
Next remove the water pumps and get out the die grinder. REMOVE every other
blade from the impellors on both pumps. You see, The problem is that the
water is being pumped through the radiator so fast that it doesn't have time
to be cooled so your poor little flaty keeps getting a dose of hotter and
hotter water. You see where we are going? Restricting the flow keeps the
coolant in the radiator longer there for getting it cooler. Sound logical?
This really does work guys. Don't take my word for it, just check it out
with the oldest round track mechanic you can find. After you are convinced
that I'm not pulling your leg,sit back and ask him about the days when the
flathead was king. Good luck guys..Keep on truckin
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