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Return-Path: Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 03:50:19 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks-digest To: fordtrucks-digest Subject: fordtrucks-digest V2 #7 Reply-To: fordtrucks Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest fordtrucks-digest Friday, January 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 007 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To remove yourself for our list send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 [anthony g moore ] Re: translation [Jesus Cardoso ] Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 [KLaff61624 ] [Fwd: Bypass Oil Filter Sludge - Ycch! Dif'rnt filters?] ["James H. Boyd"] Transport Trailers [GEGK00A Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 [Ray Cardogno ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 04:33:42 -0900 From: anthony g moore Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 I can transelate the numbers...(haha) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:31:47 -0600 (CST) From: Jesus Cardoso Subject: Re: translation This is not Italian it is Portuguese! From=20the spanish I know I can tell you this much: On Wed, 7 Jan 1998, Scott Sheldrake wrote: >=20 > Estou lhe mandando fotos da minha Ford F-1 1951 antes =09I am sending you pictures of my 1951 Ford F-1 before the first restoration or rebuild (1982) (something to that effect!) > da primeira > reforma(1982), depois da reforma (1996), estou after the restoration in 1996=09 =20 > reformando novamente e mandarei novas fotos assim que ficar pronta. =09I am restoring it again and I will send you new pictures soon. > Meu nome: RAFAEL FENDRICH > Cidade: S=E3o Bento do Sul=20 > Estado: Santa Catarina > Pa=EDs: Brasil > Endere=E7o: edite =09I hope that helps. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>= >> =09 =09Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy =09Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab) =09 =09Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University =09College Station, TX 77843-3128 =09w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259 =09Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214 =09e-mail: cardoso =09Keep in mind the following: =09- Minds are like parachutes, they only work when there are open. - Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua. "All of us in the world smile in the same language." ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:27:24 EST From: KLaff61624 Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 hou do you see the pictures that people say are with their questions? I would certianly like to see their trucks and projects. Thanks Ken ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:54:15 -0500 From: "James H. Boyd" Subject: [Fwd: Bypass Oil Filter Sludge - Ycch! Dif'rnt filters?] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------52C658B45F09 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit James Boyd wrote: > > Hi Gang, > > For JRFiero, Lee.Slezak > are curious, some answers to all your questions! > > The 53 F-100 Panel that I'm building will have the following drivetrain: > > 53 Ford Flathead V8 block bored .060 over > 53 Merc 4" crank > Offenhouser 400 heads > Edelbrock Standard Two (room for the stock generator) > - twin two barrel intake with Holly "94" carbs > Mallory Unilite Electronic Ignition > 12V alternator > Winfield SU1A Cam - .400" lift, 280 Deg duration > Adjustable Valve lifters > Fenton headers > Motor City Flathead Full Flow oiling system -w- externally mounted filter > Motor City Flathead billet aluminum T-5 tranny adaptor > SR-4 4 speed tranny (thought I had a T-5, bummer!) > > I should run 200 HP with a lot of low end torque. > > Stock body and chassis except for shaved bumpers, but I may need to cut a hole > in the floor to allow the shifter into the cab. Body and chassis are in the > shop for a frame off restore; I should get it back and on the road just in time > for the F-100 Nationals in Gatlingburg, TN, May 12-16. I may not make it if I > don't find the rear door hinges; mine are ate out. > > Still need a 1969-72 9" rear axle -w- traction lock & 3.08 ratio > and custom driveshaft. I'm also looking to install power steering and disk > brakes on the original front axles. > > JRFiero, > > The Merc crank, Navaro heads, four barrel, and a C4 tranny should be a good > combo for you, but watch your CFM's; don't over carborate! Block work should be > a matter of taste; I personally told the machinist to bore only to clean the > block up, but I did specify my requirement for a 200 HP output. I may have been > able to get by with .030" to clean up, but the horsepower requirement bumped it > up. You asked about multi-viscosity oils in engines which spent most of their > lives on straight weight non-detergent oils; If you are rebuilding an engine, > then sludge shouldn't be a problem with regular maintenance. > It's the old engines that have the varnish and sludge in them that suffer > problems when you expose them to detergent oils. The folks at Motor City > Flathead have told me that they are running a blown flathead on the street > with 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 in the winter with no problems! > > Now my engine builder is from the old school; he says only use what was > originally intended for that block, 30W non-detergent. I guess you need to > consider the application. > > Lee.Slezak > > Your original Weiand high compression finned aluminum heads, an Offenhauser > aluminum tri-power intake, Stromberg 97s, and a Mercury crank with the engine > bored 30 over sounds tough! You may want to look at the carboration; it sounds > like one carb too many. You may want to consider what's called a "square" block; > bore as close to 4" as you dare and use the 4" crank. This would increase the > volume of the engine to allow tri-carbs. (Increased HP too!) A simpler solution > would be to block off the center carb position and put a dummy carb in its > place. You mentioned a comment about flatheads in general run hot because the > headbolts used aren't strong enough and they allow a slight warping of the > stock heads when the engine gets hot, which allows combustion gases to enter > the cooling system, thus creating more heat. I don't know about stock, but > aluminum heads expand at a different rate than iron and they need to be checked > periodicly. The headbolts I'm using are original; I'll just need to check the > torque in the first 500 miles and probably every oil change after that until the > block is broken in. Only then will I put the chrome nut covers on. :-) > > You asked about fuel pumps. I'm also using the original fuel pump. For your > chosen carb application you may want to consider an electric fuel pump, but be > sure to find one that you can regulate! The old carb like the 97's and 94's will > only stand 2 PSI of pressure. > > Charlie Ball, > > I don't have any ideas on what your looking for in a truck, but if you keep > looking in the Classifieds in http://www.ford-trucks.com you'll see something! > It took me 5 years of scrounging the countryside to find the truck I was looking > for; a little persistance and you'll get there! > > Shows and events can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com/events/index.shtml > > How about it guys?! Anyone go a truck for this man? > > Regards to all, > James H. Boyd - --------------52C658B45F09 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from bcarsde4.nortel.ca (mailgate.nortel.ca [192.58.194.74]) by camel16.mindspring.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id LAA20687 for ; Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:50:03 -0500 (EST) Message-Id: Received: from zrchh190.us.nortel.com by bcarsde4.nortel.ca; Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:49:31 -0500 Received: from bnr.ca by zrchh190.bnr.ca id ; Thu, 8 Jan 1998 10:48:51 -0600 Date: 08 Jan 1998 10:48 CST Sender: "James Boyd" To: fordtrucks Cc: shortcircuit From: "James Boyd" Subject: Bypass Oil Filter Sludge - Ycch! Dif'rnt filters? Hi Gang, For JRFiero, Lee.Slezak are curious, some answers to all your questions! The 53 F-100 Panel that I'm building will have the following drivetrain: 53 Ford Flathead V8 block bored .060 over 53 Merc 4" crank Offenhouser 400 heads Edelbrock Standard Two (room for the stock generator) - twin two barrel intake with Holly "94" carbs Mallory Unilite Electronic Ignition 12V alternator Winfield SU1A Cam - .400" lift, 280 Deg duration Adjustable Valve lifters Fenton headers Motor City Flathead Full Flow oiling system -w- externally mounted filter Motor City Flathead billet aluminum T-5 tranny adaptor SR-4 4 speed tranny (thought I had a T-5, bummer!) I should run 200 HP with a lot of low end torque. Stock body and chassis except for shaved bumpers, but I may need to cut a hole in the floor to allow the shifter into the cab. Body and chassis are in the shop for a frame off restore; I should get it back and on the road just in time for the F-100 Nationals in Gatlingburg, TN, May 12-16. I may not make it if I don't find the rear door hinges; mine are ate out. Still need a 1969-72 9" rear axle -w- traction lock & 3.08 ratio and custom driveshaft. I'm also looking to install power steering and disk brakes on the original front axles. JRFiero, The Merc crank, Navaro heads, four barrel, and a C4 tranny should be a good combo for you, but watch your CFM's; don't over carborate! Block work should be a matter of taste; I personally told the machinist to bore only to clean the block up, but I did specify my requirement for a 200 HP output. I may have been able to get by with .030" to clean up, but the horsepower requirement bumped it up. You asked about multi-viscosity oils in engines which spent most of their lives on straight weight non-detergent oils; If you are rebuilding an engine, then sludge shouldn't be a problem with regular maintenance. It's the old engines that have the varnish and sludge in them that suffer problems when you expose them to detergent oils. The folks at Motor City Flathead have told me that they are running a blown flathead on the street with 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 in the winter with no problems! Now my engine builder is from the old school; he says only use what was originally intended for that block, 30W non-detergent. I guess you need to consider the application. Lee.Slezak Your original Weiand high compression finned aluminum heads, an Offenhauser aluminum tri-power intake, Stromberg 97s, and a Mercury crank with the engine bored 30 over sounds tough! You may want to look at the carboration; it sounds like one carb too many. You may want to consider what's called a "square" block; bore as close to 4" as you dare and use the 4" crank. This would increase the volume of the engine to allow tri-carbs. (Increased HP too!) A simpler solution would be to block off the center carb position and put a dummy carb in its place. You mentioned a comment about flatheads in general run hot because the headbolts used aren't strong enough and they allow a slight warping of the stock heads when the engine gets hot, which allows combustion gases to enter the cooling system, thus creating more heat. I don't know about stock, but aluminum heads expand at a different rate than iron and they need to be checked periodicly. The headbolts I'm using are original; I'll just need to check the torque in the first 500 miles and probably every oil change after that until the block is broken in. Only then will I put the chrome nut covers on. :-) You asked about fuel pumps. I'm also using the original fuel pump. For your chosen carb application you may want to consider an electric fuel pump, but be sure to find one that you can regulate! The old carb like the 97's and 94's will only stand 2 PSI of pressure. Charlie Ball, I don't have any ideas on what your looking for in a truck, but if you keep looking in the Classifieds in http://www.ford-trucks.com you'll see something! It took me 5 years of scrounging the countryside to find the truck I was looking for; a little persistance and you'll get there! Shows and events can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com/events/index.shtml How about it guys?! Anyone go a truck for this man? Regards to all, James H. Boyd - --------------52C658B45F09-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 23:36:12, -0500 From: GEGK00A Subject: Transport Trailers I moved a truck from S. Ca. to N. Ca. a distance of about 400 mi. for $200.00. Most of the cost was for a Van to pull the trailer. The trailer itself was not expensive. If you have a truck to pull the trailer you can rent the trailer from U-Haul for much less than $600. 00. If you can get help driving you can make two trips for the price of one. Good Luck Dan Lee '53 F100 351C C6 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 00:13:39 -0400 From: Ray Cardogno Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 Paul wrote: >I have just purchesed my first project truck, it's a 48 F-5. I was wondering >where to start looking for a kit to rebuild the master cylinder and brake.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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