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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 03:50:19 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V2 #7
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Friday, January 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 007



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 [anthony g moore ]
Re: translation [Jesus Cardoso ]
Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 [KLaff61624 ]
[Fwd: Bypass Oil Filter Sludge - Ycch! Dif'rnt filters?] ["James H. Boyd"]
Transport Trailers [GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)]
Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6 [Ray Cardogno ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 04:33:42 -0900
From: anthony g moore
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6

I can transelate the numbers...(haha)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:31:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: Re: translation

This is not Italian it is Portuguese!

From=20the spanish I know I can tell you this much:

On Wed, 7 Jan 1998, Scott Sheldrake wrote:
>=20
> Estou lhe mandando fotos da minha Ford F-1 1951 antes
=09I am sending you pictures of my 1951 Ford F-1 before the first
restoration or rebuild (1982) (something to that effect!)

> da primeira
> reforma(1982), depois da reforma (1996), estou
after the restoration in 1996=09 =20

> reformando novamente e mandarei novas fotos assim que ficar pronta.
=09I am restoring it again and I will send you new pictures soon.

> Meu nome: RAFAEL FENDRICH
> Cidade: S=E3o Bento do Sul=20
> Estado: Santa Catarina
> Pa=EDs: Brasil
> Endere=E7o: edite creativenet.com.br

=09I hope that helps.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>=
>>
=09
=09Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
=09Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab) =09
=09Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
=09College Station, TX 77843-3128
=09w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259
=09Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
=09e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso

=09Keep in mind the following:
=09- Minds are like parachutes, they only work when there are open.
- Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua.
"All of us in the world smile in the same language."




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:27:24 EST
From: KLaff61624
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6

hou do you see the pictures that people say are with their questions? I would
certianly like to see their trucks and projects. Thanks Ken

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:54:15 -0500
From: "James H. Boyd"
Subject: [Fwd: Bypass Oil Filter Sludge - Ycch! Dif'rnt filters?]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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James Boyd wrote:
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> For JRFiero, Lee.Slezak ee.doe.gov, Charlie Ball, and the rest of the gang who
> are curious, some answers to all your questions!
>
> The 53 F-100 Panel that I'm building will have the following drivetrain:
>
> 53 Ford Flathead V8 block bored .060 over
> 53 Merc 4" crank
> Offenhouser 400 heads
> Edelbrock Standard Two (room for the stock generator)
> - twin two barrel intake with Holly "94" carbs
> Mallory Unilite Electronic Ignition
> 12V alternator

> Winfield SU1A Cam - .400" lift, 280 Deg duration
> Adjustable Valve lifters
> Fenton headers
> Motor City Flathead Full Flow oiling system -w- externally mounted filter
> Motor City Flathead billet aluminum T-5 tranny adaptor
> SR-4 4 speed tranny (thought I had a T-5, bummer!)
>
> I should run 200 HP with a lot of low end torque.
>
> Stock body and chassis except for shaved bumpers, but I may need to cut a hole
> in the floor to allow the shifter into the cab. Body and chassis are in the
> shop for a frame off restore; I should get it back and on the road just in time
> for the F-100 Nationals in Gatlingburg, TN, May 12-16. I may not make it if I
> don't find the rear door hinges; mine are ate out.
>
> Still need a 1969-72 9" rear axle -w- traction lock & 3.08 ratio
> and custom driveshaft. I'm also looking to install power steering and disk
> brakes on the original front axles.
>
> JRFiero,
>
> The Merc crank, Navaro heads, four barrel, and a C4 tranny should be a good
> combo for you, but watch your CFM's; don't over carborate! Block work should be
> a matter of taste; I personally told the machinist to bore only to clean the
> block up, but I did specify my requirement for a 200 HP output. I may have been
> able to get by with .030" to clean up, but the horsepower requirement bumped it
> up. You asked about multi-viscosity oils in engines which spent most of their
> lives on straight weight non-detergent oils; If you are rebuilding an engine,
> then sludge shouldn't be a problem with regular maintenance.
> It's the old engines that have the varnish and sludge in them that suffer
> problems when you expose them to detergent oils. The folks at Motor City
> Flathead have told me that they are running a blown flathead on the street
> with 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 in the winter with no problems!
>
> Now my engine builder is from the old school; he says only use what was
> originally intended for that block, 30W non-detergent. I guess you need to
> consider the application.
>
> Lee.Slezak ee.doe.gov,
>
> Your original Weiand high compression finned aluminum heads, an Offenhauser
> aluminum tri-power intake, Stromberg 97s, and a Mercury crank with the engine
> bored 30 over sounds tough! You may want to look at the carboration; it sounds
> like one carb too many. You may want to consider what's called a "square" block;
> bore as close to 4" as you dare and use the 4" crank. This would increase the
> volume of the engine to allow tri-carbs. (Increased HP too!) A simpler solution
> would be to block off the center carb position and put a dummy carb in its
> place. You mentioned a comment about flatheads in general run hot because the
> headbolts used aren't strong enough and they allow a slight warping of the
> stock heads when the engine gets hot, which allows combustion gases to enter
> the cooling system, thus creating more heat. I don't know about stock, but
> aluminum heads expand at a different rate than iron and they need to be checked
> periodicly. The headbolts I'm using are original; I'll just need to check the
> torque in the first 500 miles and probably every oil change after that until the
> block is broken in. Only then will I put the chrome nut covers on. :-)
>
> You asked about fuel pumps. I'm also using the original fuel pump. For your
> chosen carb application you may want to consider an electric fuel pump, but be
> sure to find one that you can regulate! The old carb like the 97's and 94's will
> only stand 2 PSI of pressure.
>

> Charlie Ball,
>
> I don't have any ideas on what your looking for in a truck, but if you keep
> looking in the Classifieds in http://www.ford-trucks.com you'll see something!
> It took me 5 years of scrounging the countryside to find the truck I was looking
> for; a little persistance and you'll get there!
>
> Shows and events can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com/events/index.shtml
>
> How about it guys?! Anyone go a truck for this man?
>
> Regards to all,
> James H. Boyd

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Date: 08 Jan 1998 10:48 CST
Sender: "James Boyd"
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Cc: shortcircuit mindspring.com
From: "James Boyd"
Subject: Bypass Oil Filter Sludge - Ycch! Dif'rnt filters?

Hi Gang,

For JRFiero, Lee.Slezak ee.doe.gov, Charlie Ball, and the rest of the gang who
are curious, some answers to all your questions!

The 53 F-100 Panel that I'm building will have the following drivetrain:

53 Ford Flathead V8 block bored .060 over
53 Merc 4" crank
Offenhouser 400 heads
Edelbrock Standard Two (room for the stock generator)
- twin two barrel intake with Holly "94" carbs
Mallory Unilite Electronic Ignition
12V alternator
Winfield SU1A Cam - .400" lift, 280 Deg duration
Adjustable Valve lifters
Fenton headers
Motor City Flathead Full Flow oiling system -w- externally mounted filter
Motor City Flathead billet aluminum T-5 tranny adaptor
SR-4 4 speed tranny (thought I had a T-5, bummer!)

I should run 200 HP with a lot of low end torque.

Stock body and chassis except for shaved bumpers, but I may need to cut a hole
in the floor to allow the shifter into the cab. Body and chassis are in the
shop for a frame off restore; I should get it back and on the road just in time
for the F-100 Nationals in Gatlingburg, TN, May 12-16. I may not make it if I
don't find the rear door hinges; mine are ate out.


Still need a 1969-72 9" rear axle -w- traction lock & 3.08 ratio
and custom driveshaft. I'm also looking to install power steering and disk
brakes on the original front axles.

JRFiero,

The Merc crank, Navaro heads, four barrel, and a C4 tranny should be a good
combo for you, but watch your CFM's; don't over carborate! Block work should be
a matter of taste; I personally told the machinist to bore only to clean the
block up, but I did specify my requirement for a 200 HP output. I may have been
able to get by with .030" to clean up, but the horsepower requirement bumped it
up. You asked about multi-viscosity oils in engines which spent most of their
lives on straight weight non-detergent oils; If you are rebuilding an engine,
then sludge shouldn't be a problem with regular maintenance.
It's the old engines that have the varnish and sludge in them that suffer
problems when you expose them to detergent oils. The folks at Motor City
Flathead have told me that they are running a blown flathead on the street
with 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 in the winter with no problems!

Now my engine builder is from the old school; he says only use what was
originally intended for that block, 30W non-detergent. I guess you need to
consider the application.

Lee.Slezak ee.doe.gov,

Your original Weiand high compression finned aluminum heads, an Offenhauser
aluminum tri-power intake, Stromberg 97s, and a Mercury crank with the engine
bored 30 over sounds tough! You may want to look at the carboration; it sounds
like one carb too many. You may want to consider what's called a "square" block;
bore as close to 4" as you dare and use the 4" crank. This would increase the
volume of the engine to allow tri-carbs. (Increased HP too!) A simpler solution
would be to block off the center carb position and put a dummy carb in its
place. You mentioned a comment about flatheads in general run hot because the
headbolts used aren't strong enough and they allow a slight warping of the
stock heads when the engine gets hot, which allows combustion gases to enter
the cooling system, thus creating more heat. I don't know about stock, but
aluminum heads expand at a different rate than iron and they need to be checked
periodicly. The headbolts I'm using are original; I'll just need to check the
torque in the first 500 miles and probably every oil change after that until the
block is broken in. Only then will I put the chrome nut covers on. :-)

You asked about fuel pumps. I'm also using the original fuel pump. For your
chosen carb application you may want to consider an electric fuel pump, but be
sure to find one that you can regulate! The old carb like the 97's and 94's will
only stand 2 PSI of pressure.

Charlie Ball,

I don't have any ideas on what your looking for in a truck, but if you keep
looking in the Classifieds in http://www.ford-trucks.com you'll see something!
It took me 5 years of scrounging the countryside to find the truck I was looking
for; a little persistance and you'll get there!

Shows and events can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com/events/index.shtml

How about it guys?! Anyone go a truck for this man?

Regards to all,
James H. Boyd

- --------------52C658B45F09--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 23:36:12, -0500
From: GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)
Subject: Transport Trailers

I moved a truck from S. Ca. to N. Ca. a distance of about 400 mi. for
$200.00. Most of the cost was for a Van to pull the trailer. The
trailer itself was not expensive. If you have a truck to pull the
trailer you can rent the trailer from U-Haul for much less than $600.
00. If you can get help driving you can make two trips for the price
of one.

Good Luck

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C C6

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 00:13:39 -0400
From: Ray Cardogno
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #6

Paul wrote:

>I have just purchesed my first project truck, it's a 48 F-5. I was wondering
>where to start looking for a kit to rebuild the master cylinder and brake....


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