Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 03:50:14 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V2 #51
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fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, February 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 051
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Slow Ridin' ["Don & Teresa Neighbors" ]
Steering Gearbox adj [JRFiero aol.com]
Re: 1955 f350 lady has ?'s [Ken Payne ]
your questions [jc& terry ]
55 boss hog [jc& terry ]
Re: Steering Gearbox adj, reply [TNickolson aol.com]
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 06:52:44 -0500
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: Slow Ridin'
Grover's street legal!!! As of yesterday morning, it wears a Bourbon
County Kentucky "Farm" tag. Yeah, I know it may not be big news, but after
6 months of working on it while having to divide my time between Grover and
other less worthy projects, I'm pretty tickled.
Of course, that cheap aftermarket voltage regulator connector I got worked
loose, and I ended up having to get a jump start.
'54 F250 Named Grover
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 20:05:18 EST
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Steering Gearbox adj
Have any of you done the whole steering gearbox adjustment routine,
including different shims to change bearing preload, as well as the obvious
adjustment available at the side plate?
Mine is a '51 - I know they were essentially similar at least to '56. I
bought a set of gaskets from one of the vendors at Carlisle this year - the
gaskets are what are called shims under the bottom cover. I have an extra
gearbox, which I also bought at Carlisle this year - $20 for the whole column,
including steering arm but without steering wheel. I've disassembled the
extra box - the bearings and bushings seem OK. The worm is slightly pitted
way up at the top (why do they do that?).
But, the plan is to use the cleaned-up and plated (Eastwood plating kit)
bottom and side plates on the currently installed gearbox in my truck. I
can't tighten up that gearbox with just the sector adjustment on the side, so
I'm hoping that bearing preload will make the difference. Does anyone know
what magnitude of change that will make?
What kind of scale do you use to measure the force at the steering wheel
rim? I expect an postal scale, but where does one get such things?
I also have a selection of steering arms, and a couple drag links, so I'll
pick the best of the bunch and correctly adjust the drag link.
I have to get the steering gearbox all straightened out before I put the
headers on the flathead. I won't be able to get at it after that, and safety
inspection is coming up in April.
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 21:21:22 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: 1955 f350 lady has ?'s
At 01:48 PM 2/23/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I have posted to this list from time to time. I have a general knowledge
>of vehicles and how they work, but I admit to getting lost easily if
>conversations get too technical.
But as time goes on, with experience, you won't get lost as easily.
>I was able to buy back the f350 my grandfather bought new in 1955 (the same
>year I was born). It was, and I still hope, in excellent condition. It
>was overhauled and repainted by the gentleman who bought it from the family
>in 1988, and has had very few miles on it since then. It has only 60,000
>actual miles on it total. A couple of weeks ago the weather was nice so I
>backed it out of the shed and let it idle for quite awhile, checking the
>gauges every so often to make sure everything was working right. My
>husband and I decided to drive it 8 miles into town to put gas in it and
>that is when I noticed the heat gauge was on hot! I don't know when it
>happened because I had been checking those gauges. Anti freeze was spewing
>out of the radiator and made quite a puddle under the vehicle at the gas
>pump. Of course, I knew enough not to try to start it in it's condtion.
>We called Triple A and they had someone tow it for us to the local radiator
>shop where the radiator was fixed and a new thermostat put in it. I have
>been so afraid that I ruined the motor, but both the radiator guy and my
>neighbor told me if it was spewing antifreeze it probably had enough in it
>not to hurt the motor and besides "those old motors are tough". It hasn't
>used anti freeze since, but today when I started it I noticed a blue gray
>color coming from the exhaust. It seemed to diminish after it ran awhile.
>I have no idea if it was doing that before my radiator problem or not. I
>may just be paranoid. How can I tell if I hurt "My Baby"?
Blue gray? Don't worry. It sounds like you've got leaky valve guides.
They let a little oil seap into the combustion camber when the truck
sits a while. After it runs a bit, the oil is burned, hence the smoke
going away. This is not a condition which will cause major problems,
just embarrassing smoke. As while anything, you ought to get it taken
care of because this will only get worse. A valve job by a compentent
mechanic shouldn't run too much and he can also check the condition
of the pistons while he's at it.
First step, take it somewhere and ask for a "compression test" or buy a
compression guage. They run about $25 and come with instructions.
Compression shouldn't vary by more than 10-15% from one piston to
another. A compression test will test you if you've got bad rings
(another possible smoke cause but it usually keeps smoking) or valves.
>Also, how much play should the clutch have. The clutch takes ahold about
>an inch off the floor, and I have to push it in a good halfway to disengage
>it. Does it have to be adjusted?
Yes, it sounds like it needs adjustment. Not sure where it is on your
>Please bear with me guys, my intentions are good. . . If I had been born a
>boy, I would have been taught all of this stuff. I had the interest at an
>early age but was never taken seriously by "Daddy".
My wife had her dad show her engine work. She wishes she had paid more
attention. She was a Godsend when I changed out the rear axle.
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:36:07 -0800
From: jc& terry
Subject: your questions
calm down there, if yur gonna talk to truck people you, you gotta quit
thinking they're out to get you. first of all i took the time to answer your
questions. second. i may have sounded short but it is not me, it is this
wordspeak. you could not hear the tone or the volume of my voice so you got
defensive. i will do this for you again so you won't think i'm picking on you.
1. the stock front height varied due to engine size, type of bumper, amount
of leafs in the spring, age of springs, tire size, etc. if you repair and
make new all the front gear it will be stock height. if you like it, don't
worry about what someone else thinks. what makes them the expert? that is
why i said i can make it whatever i want.
2. will a nine inch rear change the height. NO. tires and worn springs,
barden bumper, heavy load. those thing will change it. the nine inch is a
superior rear end with multiple options and very easy to come by. but as you
are aware it is not stock .
3. you are probably not aware of the fact that the monoleaf strait axle was
a mainstay on fords for many, many years. this was a front end that had the
single spring running paralell with the axle from one side to the other. it
was not used on trucks the year of yours but how did i know what you meant.
the mono system you are talkig about is relatively new and still not used by
many. i myself have thought of this for the rear but am not going to spend a
huge sum of money and take the dealers word that it is as strong as the
multiple leaf because my knowledge and logic tell me different. i am waiting
for someone else to try it and see what they think.
you also mentioned volare as if was a different front end than any other
IFS. this front end came from a Plymouth Volare(much like a duster except a
later version) it is the right size to bolt or weld to your frame with
minimal modification. it is no different than any other IFS from chevy, ford
or mopar autos. i have been told by several that it oversteers in a truck. i
do not know this to be the truth but they now sell a steering damper for
this unit so i would believe there may be some truth to this. the
advantage is these cars as did all of this era came with standard front
disc, power steering, and idependant front coil suspension that aloowed for
camber, to handle road bumps. the parts as well as the front ends are
readily available at scrapyards and parts houses, so you get a modern,
luxurious ride at an affordable price.
so you see,my friend,i was not being short with you, i was trying to answer
your questions without writing a book. it is much easier for me to tell you
this in person over the phone than to write it but it would cost you much
more. this is pretty much free. you should be more concerned that if i take
the time to respond to you i must be interested in what you have to say. it
would have been much easier to trash your message and move on. get some
callouses. i am one of the easier people you will deal with in life. i hope
this explains it for you. i will be gald to help you whenever you want but
remember "no cry babies"
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:01:10 -0800
From: jc& terry
Subject: 55 boss hog
both the radiator guy and my
neighbor told me if it was spewing antifreeze it probably had enough in it
not to hurt the motor and besides "those old motors are tough". It hasn't
used anti freeze since, but today when I started it I noticed a blue gray
color coming from the exhaust. It seemed to diminish after it ran awhile.
I have no idea if it was doing that before my radiator problem or not. I
may just be paranoid. How can I tell if I hurt "My Baby"?
they are right. your baby is fine. tough is an understatement. this happened
more than once in the life of this old bear and will happen again i venture
to say. you did the right thing and should not worry. blue gray smoke is
probably carbon from sitting or maybe carburator mal adjustment. could aslo
be that the rings are brittle. not to worry plenty good times left.
Also, how much play should the clutch have. The clutch takes ahold about
an inch off the floor, and I have to push it in a good halfway to disengage
it. Does it have to be adjusted?
yes, the clutch should start to engage by 1 1/2 inches from the top. should
be completely engaged by halfway down. no big deal. 2 minute adjustment.
Please bear with me guys, my intentions are good. . . If I had been born a
boy, I would have been taught all of this stuff. I had the interest at an
early age but was never taken seriously by "Daddy".
he should have taken you seriously, it's his loss. your intentions are
better than good. you go girlfriend.
i like that name too.
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 23:52:15 EST
From: TNickolson aol.com
Subject: Re: Steering Gearbox adj, reply
I hate to admit it, but I had my steering box rebuilt by a company called
Steer and Gear. If you want the address e-mail me back and I look for the old
invoice and get the address and phone number. To set my steering wheel stright
and in line with the wheels, I took the entire steering links apart and
centered the steering wheel with the box. Their is a slight flat spot exactly
in the center of the worm gear and that is the starting point, from their I
just centered every thing else working from the box to the wheels. It worked
out good for me. If you are using FENTON headers, you will be able to put the
headers on after you put the steering box back in, I used 48-52 car headers
and they don't fit perfect. I had to knock a small dent in one side of the
header to give me enought clearence. The tension adjusting tool was basicly....
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