fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, January 20 1998 Volume 02 : Number 016
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Re: '51 F5 ["Matthew J. McCoy" ]
RE: Bolt on HP for Y blocks [JIM_HOLLINGSWORTH HP-Vancouver-om1.om.hp.com]
Re: '51 F5 [Scott Sheldrake ]
Heater Hose Support Brackets ["Howard Tarnoff" ]
Modifications and Value ["Howard Tarnoff" ]
Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #14 [mcat epix.net]
Re: Heater Hose Support Brackets [Rich Garber ]
F100 Nationals Booth [Ken Payne ]
1st Anniversary Chat [Ken Payne ]
value and handleing of 55 truck ["Earl T. Ingram, III"
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 08:37:20 -0600
From: "Matthew J. McCoy"
Subject: Re: '51 F5
Having a hard time finding any info on this 1951 F5 truck. Would like
any resource that may have pictures, tell of options that came with it,
serial numbers, paint codes, manuals, wiring schemes... This is first
project. Truck runs great, very little rust, needs some windows and
minor amount of body repair. There is no bed. I know these came with
many different options, but where can I find examples? Help??
Sorry I missed the chat session... Is this an every week affair?
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 98 07:25:21 -0800
From: JIM_HOLLINGSWORTH HP-Vancouver-om1.om.hp.com
Subject: RE: Bolt on HP for Y blocks
Could you let the group know how you set that Y-Block up? Given your
comment about "do little", I'm curious as to why you could'nt find the
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: Bolt on HP for Y blocks
Author: Non-HP-GEGK00A (GEGK00A prodigy.com) at HP-Vancouver,shargw1
Date: 1/16/98 4:48 PM
Don't do it. Yank the Y block and put a 460 or similar late model
that you can get parts for. Souping up a Y block will do little for a
heavy truck and cost much.
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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:10:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott Sheldrake
Subject: Re: '51 F5
- ---"Matthew J. McCoy" wrote:
> Having a hard time finding any info on this 1951 F5 truck. Would like
> any resource that may have pictures, tell of options that came with
> serial numbers, paint codes, manuals, wiring schemes... This is first
> project. Truck runs great, very little rust, needs some windows and
> minor amount of body repair. There is no bed. I know these came with
> many different options, but where can I find examples? Help??
> Sorry I missed the chat session... Is this an every week affair?
I have a 1952 Ford page, both the 51 and 52 are the same with some
small diffferances. Take a look at my page and under the links there
is a link to The Old Ford Truck Club. There is another good one to
the F-Files. If you have any othere questions then contact me off the
1952 Ford Pickup
Please take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page:
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 10:47:51 -0500
From: "Howard Tarnoff"
Subject: Heater Hose Support Brackets
I am looking for a pair of heater hose support brackets for my 55F100. The
part number (from the Ford Chasis Parts Catalog) is 18481.
Anyone have a pair to spare?
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 19:31:28 -0500
From: "Howard Tarnoff"
Subject: Modifications and Value
I am soliciting your opinions. I have a totally stock 55 F100. And like
all stockers, it drives and rides like it is supposed to, not well.
Has anyone got a handle on what mods like power steering and brakes may do
to the value? What about mono leaf springs and disk brakes.
I really wanted to keep the Effie stock but I would enjoy the ability to
have fun on cruise nights without killing myself.
What do you folks think?
PS, My truck is in the March 98 Issue of Classic Trucks on Page 89.
Putting a powerstroke in the 55 frame is a tight fit. It will go
but you have very little clearence between the frame and the starter . The
solenoid on the starter tips away from the block, and the exhaust manifold
on the other side sticks out to clear the oil cooler. the total width is
around 31". the truck frame is around 32" inbetween the rails. I know be
cause I`m putting a 6.9 in a 56 coe. The cummins is around 36 or 37" long
and I don`t belive the 55 engine bay is that long with the radiator in
place. A guy in SC is putting one in a 56coe and wound up cutting his
floor to miss the head. Healso made a custom radiator support and moved it
in front for addational length. I would keep the pto driven pump. The
electric pumps are too slow and don`t have the volume to run the hydralics
you need to operate the dump or a rollback. If you do want to get rid of
it I would opt for a motor driven pump under the hood. The systems need
around 20 gph to run corectly. Hope this gives some insight to whats
involved, but it can be done!
- --- On Sun, 18 Jan 1998 23:45:30 -0400 Ray Cardogno
>Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 20:26:55 -0500
>From: Ethan Vos
>I've got a 1955 F-500 dump truck that I'm in the planning stages of
>building. I want this thing to be a reliable runner. No chrome or flash,
>just a super reliable work truck.
>I need some ideas. I think I want to keep the dump mechanism but convert
>to an electric motor instead of a PTO. I'll probably build it into a roll
>Has anyone put either a Powerstroke or Cummins in one of the early
>If so, what are the pros and what are the cons?
>Thanks in advance.
>I ended up with my father's 1955 F-500 dump. That's what started me with
>these trucks. It's been in the family since it was almost new. These were
>the ideas I had for it. Last year I swapped the 239 that was in it with a
>1956 272 which I had punched .030 over and rebuilt with the best (better
>alloys than oem) available parts. Then I put in a 2-speed rear axle from
>F-600, beefed-up the front/rear springs, new king pins, bushings, etc.,
>added power brakes, 8.25 tires (instead of 7.50 for better highway
>12-volt conversion & 400 watt stereo (very important), I use this truck to
>go anywhere at highway speeds and it's still relatively original with ford
>parts. The pto has never been a problem. It's a relatively small truck and
>it zips around great the way it is now. The difference was substantial
>after my changes.
>I know this does not address the diesel issue. I'm interested in seeing
>what other responses you get. I am thinking about putting a diesel into my
>54 COE (about twice as big and heavy as the F-500) someday, but don't have
>the first clue as to what to use. Keep us posted on how you make out. Enjoy!
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
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- -----------------End of Original Message-----------------
427 Fe powered 56 F-100 Wild by design
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 19:44:40 -0600
From: Rich Garber
Subject: Re: Heater Hose Support Brackets
>I am looking for a pair of heater hose support brackets for my 55F100. The
>part number (from the Ford Chasis Parts Catalog) is 18481.
>Anyone have a pair to spare?
Is it a 6 or an 8 cyl. I'm sure, I could find them. It will have to wait
till spring. It's to darn COLD. I know where a 55 is sitting and I plan on
back for the rear fender.(it has a box mounted spare)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:12:56 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: F100 Nationals Booth
Peggy and I have been able to get a booth at the Pigeon Forge
F100 Nationals this May! We're organizing a group picnic and
we need to get an idea of how many people plan on being there.
Event information is on the web site. If you plan on being
at this show (which is the largest F-series show) let us know
so we can get a guesstimated head count for a picnic site.
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:17:46 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: 1st Anniversary Chat
The chat session last night was lively. I appreciate it!
Found out that there's definately some problems getting
on for some people... I'm working on it.
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 00:46:15 -0500
From: "Earl T. Ingram, III"
Subject: value and handleing of 55 truck
I recommend that you DO NOT change the suspension or brakes on your 55.
Instead I suggest that you rebuild the front end you now have. First
COMPLETELY disassemble the ENTIRE assembly , including the springs.
Carefully clean the rust and scale that has accumulated over the last 40
years from EACH leaf.Coat each leaf with wheel bearing grease. Next
reassemble the springs and install NEW bushings in BOTH ends of each
spring.Wrap the springs with tape to keep dirt out, the grease in and your
hands clean. Next replace the kingpins and bushings in the axle using bronse
bushings if you can find them. Replace the tie rod ends and drag link. Have
the steering box rebuilt by someone who knows their stuff. (this isn't a job
for your local bolt wringer/thread stripper grease monkey.} Install new
shackle bushings in the frame. Now reassemble the whole thing. Align the
front end using the following specs. Caster 2.5 degrees positive Camber
left side 1/2 degree positive right side 1/4 degree positive Toe in 1/16
inch. Install new HD gas shocks. Replace your tires with a set of steel
belted radicals on 6 1/2 or 7 inch rims all the way around. Don't get
carried away with the offset.About in inch positive works nicely. Run 35 lbs
tire pressure in the front and 30 in the rear.
For your brakes, rebuild the whole system using the BEST shoes and wheel
cylinder kit you can get. While your at it, replace ALL the brake springs
and retainers. Remember these things are over 40 years old and we all get
tired after a while. Have your drums turned and repack or replace the
wheel bearings and seals. Rebuild the master cylinder. Again use the best
kits you can get. Brake repair work is NOT the place to scrimp. That's your
baby that may have to stop on a dime.
I performed the above operation on a 63 F-100 I once owned and was totally
blown away by the results. The 55 and the 63 had virtually the same front
end. By keeping your truck stock you retain the antique value but you will
be very much surprised it how much better it rides and drives. Just keep an
eye on tire pressure and give that front end a shot of grease every time you....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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