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Return-Path: Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 03:50:17 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks-digest To: fordtrucks-digest Subject: fordtrucks-digest V2 #14 Reply-To: fordtrucks Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest fordtrucks-digest Sunday, January 18 1998 Volume 02 : Number 014 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To remove yourself for our list send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #13 different wheel bolt pattern [KLaff61624 51 F1 serials/prod codes, grill color [JRFiero ] Re: different bolt patterns [JRFiero ] Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? [JRFiero ] Tailgates for T-bird Terry [RJC988 ] 9" options [witcraft ] Opinions [Ethan Vos ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:38:13 EST From: KLaff61624 Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #13 different wheel bolt pattern If you do not want different bolt patterns on the front and rear axles you have three choices. 1 have your axles, hubs, drums. and rotors drilled for the pattern that you like, any area machine shop should be able to tell you who can drill then in your area. 2 check the wheel that you are planning to use, some companies make two different bolt pattern on the same rim so that it can be used on different patterns. My wheels are from centerline and they came with 2 patterns, although I only use 1 pattern. 3 find a rear axle that matches the front patterns. You said that you wanted to use a 9 in rear, if you need a 9in then that tells me that you are looking a making some healthy horsepower, so wheel adapters are in my opion defintely out. EVERYONE AT ANY SPEED SHOP WILL TELL YOU NOT TO USE ADAPTERS. Adapters are also unsafe if you install them on any vehicle that weighs very much or one that will be cornering very hard, they tend to break. Don't worry about which one you decide to use they all work well. I prefer to use the same pattern so iI had my rear axle drilled to match. Good luck. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:54:58 EST From: JRFiero Subject: 51 F1 serials/prod codes, grill color Hey, you ol' farts - I have several nagging questions about my ‘51 F1R1, and maybe we can help each other while I get the answers. My questions are: exactly when was my truck built; and, when did grill colors change from argent (silver) to beige? My truck is missing the data plate from the glovebox, but I do have the serial number. So, I know it was built after the September date when Ford changed serial number formats, but don't have much info after that, ‘cause I don't have the production code (production code includes Month and Day of manufacture). If I had other people's serials with production codes, I could pretty much figure out when mine was built. I'm told the early 51s had argent grills with chrome headlight rings, until the Korean Police Action (War) effort made chrome a critical military need. After that they were beige (or whatever you call that color) with argent headlight rings. I've also seem numerous ads with body-color grills, but haven't confirmed that was available. So - If everyone with a 51 or a buddy with a 51 could send to me, individually or through the list, answers to a brief questionnaire (below), I'll compile them and send y'all the results, including a translation of the serial numbers. I'll compile the numbers for other than F1s, but for my purposes I think the F1 serial/production codes are the only ones which will help. Questions for ‘51 Ford F Trucks: Serial Number: F1R1SP19394 Production Code: ________________ Original Grill Color: unknown - replaced, repainted, probably was beige. Anything else you want to tell me? Original options, Five Star Extra, etc Thanks, Jonas jrfiero 51 F1R1 69 Moto Guzzi 125 Scrambler 78 Ducati Darmah Sport Desmo 900 80 Honda CBX (!) soon, I hope 82 Yamaha XZ550RJ Vision 83 Yamaha XZ550RK Vision 85 Fiero GT other mundane stuff. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:22:33 EST From: JRFiero Subject: Re: different bolt patterns Original post was about wanting to install a 9" rear, but wanting to keep the same bolt pattern as the front. If the major concern is not having to carry two spares, just carry one spare with the correct adapters to mount it to the 'other' bolt pattern, temporarily. Course it you're going with custom wheels, or want to be able to rotate tires, that won't work very well. I ran a set of aluminum adapters on my '52 panel, 289/4spd, Chrysler rear for years with no problems, but I still don't think its such a good idea, and the warnings that come with the adapters argue against truck use. You have the best idea, to get the same pattern. Hopefully somebody knows what rear to use. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 19:08:46 EST From: JRFiero Subject: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? If I recall, there are a few of you out there who know a little chemistry. What is it that distilled white vinegar does to metal pieces? And what is distilled white vinegar, anyway? Label says 'diluted with water to 5% acidity.' I have several thermostat housings in a can of vinegar right now, and it's bubbling away having a fine time. But what's happening? Will they just melt? Will it take the paint off, too (only flecks are left)? My intent was to get the rust off, and I accomplished that using vinegar once before on an old pair of pliers I found buried in the backyard, but they came out all pockmarked. Probably the rust, but could it have been the vinegar? I've accelerated the process a little by having the coffee can (with vinegar and housings) sitting in a plastic tub which I keep refilling with hot water. Wonder what's happening to the coffee can? It's thermostat time for the ol' flathead. When I bought it, they were sitting in the glovebox, 'til this morning. I could use a little heat, even in this mild Virginia winter. Tested 'em with the wife's candy thermometer, they're fine (180). I have new hoses and pipes, so I just have to clean up the thermostat housings. Fortunately I have extras to experiment with. Two more in the garage overnight with foamy Dow oven cleaner on them. Hope to paint a couple of them tomorrow, bake them if my wife goes out somewhere, and button it all up. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 19:53:14 EST From: RJC988 Subject: Tailgates for T-bird Terry Terry, it "seems" like the tailgate on my 57 fleetside would be the same as the ones on a stepside. Mine is much narrower that the bed and has what appears to be the same chains and latches. The only problem with my theory is that catalogs usually sell these tailgates for "stepsides only". I only have one catalog that lists Ford offering stepsides between 57 and 60. This is not as much help as you have given me in the past, but its all I have got. Glenn in Memphis (Bartlett soon!) and his '57 F-100 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:16:12 -0800 From: witcraft Subject: 9" options Hi, Part 1 I am running a 1970 429 automatic in a 1954 F-100. However, I am using what seems to be the original rear end, an obvious mismatch. What is more logical: 1) to rebuild the rear end and change gear ratios, 2)purchase/trade for a rebuilt rear end, or 3) bolt in a 9" rear end from something newer? I would guess the latter, but what are some obvious choices (vehicles, year, etc.) of the same width? Part 2 Since I am not pulling or hauling anything heavy with my truck, should the rear axle come from a car rather than a truck? Also, is the big block too big? Should I be spending money on downsizing to a 289 or a 302? I would still be in the same place with the lack of highway gears, but there would be less of a power mismatch. I have enjoyed this list so far. Thanks for your help and comments. Rob witcraft ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 20:26:55 -0500 From: Ethan Vos Subject: Opinions I've got a 1955 F-500 dump truck that I'm in the planning stages of building. I want this thing to be a reliable runner. No chrome or flash, just a super reliable work truck. I need some ideas. I think I want to keep the dump mechanism but convert it to an electric motor instead of a PTO. I'll probably build it into a roll off bed. Has anyone put either a Powerstroke or Cummins in one of the early trucks? If so, what are the pros and what are the cons?.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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