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fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, April 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 116 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To remove yourself for our list send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Voltage Regulator ["Don & Teresa Neighbors" ] 56 rear tanks [jniolon Re: Rear fuel tanks [MichellHC ] 58 ford [kenny ] Re: Fuel Gauge [sdelanty Re: Gas tank - repair or replace? [Bruce Dunne ] Re: Gas tank - repair or replace? [Scott ] 12V to 6V Gauges [Ray Cardogno ] ADMIN: New list server working [Ken Payne ] '40 Gas Tank Quirk [Brechtjohn ] 51 F1 rear end [Rick Barron ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 06:52:32 -0400 From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors" Subject: Voltage Regulator In the last Digest, Dan wrote: "I just replaced my worn out OEM fuel gauge sender with an aftermarket unit. Also included was a six volt regulator..." Dan, I am using one of those regulators, and the only real "problem" I have is that the gauges pulse. The one I use is the same as what Ford used in the late '50s and early '60s for their gauges, so I figured I'd be better off with an OEM-type part. The pulsing seems to go away after the engine is running and supplying power via the alternator. That, or I am bouncing around in the cab so much once I'm under way that I can't see the gauges pulse any more! :-) Somebody here suggested that the way that regulator works is that the swing from 0 - 12 volts averages out to 6 volts. If it was good enough for Ford... Don Neighbors '54 F250 Named Grover ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 06:42 -0400 (EDT) From: jniolon Subject: 56 rear tanks Michelle wouldn't you know it...last box...last book...there it is Custom and Classic Trucks June 1996...pg 65 Relocating F-100 tanks using Isuzu This one also requires notching the frame rail... but makes for a nice install... again, if you can't find the mag..let me know and I'll copy and fax/mail to you.. good luck, and sorry it took so long to locate john ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:44:15 EDT From: MichellHC Subject: Re: Rear fuel tanks John, Thanks for the info on the tanks. The trooper tank sounds the most interesting at this point. I think I will see if I can find on at a local junk yard and measure it, and go from there. I am not to keen on the Mustang tank because of the rear filler. Also I am going to check out some early Bronco tanks (before 78) The early Broncos had a narrow frame rail as the Fifties Ford trucks did. Give me a shout if you find the mag with the Trooper in it. Michelle Chell's Hauler PS. I will be away from this board intil next Monday. We are going to the Pate swap meet near Ft. Worth. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 11:23:07 -0400 From: kenny Subject: 58 ford Hello, I am new to the group and truck rebuilding. I have a few questions. I am redoing a 1958 Ford shortbox F-100 Custom Cab and need to know if an= yone has = a good set of front fenders for her. Also need to get the chrome redone b= ut do not know where to start. The only other problem is the rear cab corners, rust= ed out, = any help would be appreciated. thank you Kenny (58)= ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:48:13 -0700 From: sdelanty Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge >sent the first regulator back to the vendor, because I could not get >6V out of it. The output just bounced between 12V and 0V. Today UPS >delivered my replacement regulator, I hooked it up and behold, >bouncing between 12V and 0V. At that point I pried the device open >and looked inside. it is just a bimetal spring with a contact and a >heater wire on it. Yep Dan, that's what they do... they are very crude. >cycle. Even if I could the state of charge of my battery and my >alternator output would affect my gas gauge. I think that I am going >to search for a more accurate method of suppling 6 volts to my gauges. My prefered regulator is a LM7806 or equivilant, available at Radio Shack or other electronics outlet. Nice little 6 volt regulator good for up to 1 amp. You should mount it on a small heatsink and use a bypass capacitor on the input and output pins. Total cost at Radio Shack is likely under $3. They are easy to hook up, let me know if You want more info or a schematic.. Steve http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/ When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. -- Hunter S. Thompson ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 16:02:16 -0500 (CDT) From: Bruce Dunne Subject: Re: Gas tank - repair or replace? Tom: Just went through this experience. Had a couple of bothersome leaks so I took the tank to a repair shop. They came back to say that the leak was at the seam, and therefore not repairable with conventional methods. There is now a process where they bake an epoxy coating to the entire inside of the tank, so you basically use the old tank as a cover for the new one. Apparently they put the stuff in the tank, then spin it very fast to distribute it evenly, then bake it. Cost $200.00 with a lifetime guarantee. I've seen replacement plastic tanks for about that price for my truck, but, hell, I already had it out and now it looks like stock. I think that most radiator/gas tank repair shops can farm out the service. Good luck, BEDunne '53 F100 > > Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 20:12:32 -0400 > From: Thomas Teixeira > Subject: Gas tank - repair or replace? > > We just got our '35 pickup working well enough to get registered and to > pass the state safety inspection, and also filled up the tank for the first > time. Unfortunately, it was leaking from at least three places. Two of > these were easy to fix: by the filler neck (went away after tightening with > big channellocks), the sending unit (had to re-epoxy the metal adapter ring > for the modern sending unit), and one or more other places, probably near > the seam. Any advice on whether to try to repair this tank, or just spend > the money on a reproduction stainless steel tank. While the truck has > mostly old or old style parts, it's got plenty of non-original parts so > that's not an issue. > > My inclination is to spend the money and get a new tank so I won't have to > worry about rust, et cetera, but if five minutes with J-B weld would fix > this, it seems like a waste of money. > > Any voices of experience out there? > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 16:12:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Subject: Re: Gas tank - repair or replace? - ---Rich Garber wrote: > > >My inclination is to spend the money and get a new tank so I won't have to > >worry about rust, et cetera, but if five minutes with J-B weld would fix > >this, it seems like a waste of money. Because we are on the topic of gas tanks I was looking at mine and it looks like it has surface rust IN it. Would one of those gas tank coatings work well? Has anybody done this? I can't do the shake the rocks thing because there are baffles in it. Scott == 1952 Ford Pickup now with Chromed bumper and grill! Come take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9731/ _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 22:44:11 -0400 From: Ray Cardogno Subject: 12V to 6V Gauges >Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 00:46:00, -0500 >From: GEGK00A >Subject: Fuel Gauge > I think that I am going >to search for a more accurate method of suppling 6 volts to my gauges. > >Dan Lee >'53 F100 >351C-4V This is the main reason none of my feul gauges work. I don't bother fixing them because I now have 12 volts and it won't read accurately anyhow. I was wondering about trying a variable resistor that you could turn to adjust. The problem is getting the right range of resistance and wattage. Does anyone know what the load for a fuel gauge is? Also what resistance/wattage should be used to step down the voltage for all the other various gauges on a 53-55 instrument panel? It seems that if you get one rated properly in the mid-point of it's range, you could tweak it in. ??? Ray C ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 23:31:06 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: New list server working New list server is now working. I'll be testing it until Friday and the lists will be switched over this weekend. Full uns*bscribe, s*bscribe and posting instructions will get send out to list members at that time. The current server seems to be working properly again. For how long, who knows? Although we have 2.5 more weeks paid for with the old service they're getting dumped ASAP. Ken Payne CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 23:33:02 EDT From: Brechtjohn Subject: '40 Gas Tank Quirk While we are on the subject of gas tanks, I have been experiencing a curious problem in my '40 3/4 ton Express Pickup. The problem only happens in the warmer months, (beginning now). When I fill my tank up and the day-time temperature goes up, gas leaks out of my filler tube. It seems as though I have a trapped pocket of vapors in the tank that expand with heat and force the gas up and out of the filler tube. There is a smaller vent (?) tube inside of the filler tube. When I am filling the tank I notice that gas spits back up out of it--so it isn't clogged. Does anyone have any ideas or knowledge of the venting system? The tank in the '40 is under the seat, in fact the seat sits on it. Sincerely, John Brecht ------------------------------.... 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