fordtrucks-digest Monday, April 27 1998 Volume 02 : Number 114



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

F-300 or bigger [MichellHC ]
Sway bars for stock suspensions ["Paul G." ]
Value of 55 trim. ["Paul G." ]
On the road to Pigeon Forge ["Paul G." ]
Possible show. ["Paul G." ]
Re: Parts Locations/Restoration guide [Tstyskal ]
How to by a V8 [RJC988 ]
primer [Scott ]
Re: 53-59 models & engines [Dyan65 ]
1952 truck [Scott ]
1952 ford [Scott ]
F-300 and bigger ["Abram H. Stauffer" ]
Gas drip/Bad Gauge readings [Ray Cardogno ]
F-350 or Larger... [Ray Cardogno ]
Re: 57 truck style, 54 grill [AMorgan351 ]
Re: Red letters on hubcaps [AMorgan351 ]
Re: Red letters on hubcaps [FoMoCoNUT2 ]
Restoration [Rich Garber ]
rear tanks for 56 [jniolon uss.com]
Re: primer [Cathy Greenlaw ]
Re: F-350 or Larger... [Dan Koster ]
Re: F-300 and bigger [Dan Koster ]
Re: How to by a V8 [Cathy Greenlaw ]
Re: F-300 and biggest [Cathy Greenlaw ]
Gas tank - repair or replace? [Thomas Teixeira ]

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Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 17:26:58 EDT
From: MichellHC
Subject: F-300 or bigger

Fire away Dan, we have a F-600 in the stable.

Michelle
Chell's Hauler

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:11:31 -0400
From: "Paul G."
Subject: Sway bars for stock suspensions

I thought I'd share with you what I just did to my 55 panel with stock
front, and 9" rear, suspensions...I went for it and bought sway bars for
both ends.
While a lot of $$ (about $350 total), it did more than I ever would have
thought possible to eliminate the sawing motion of the steering wheel by
cutting way down on the leaning of the body.
I put the front bar on first, and drove around, and figure that about a
70% improvement in the steering.
Then, I put the rear bar on, and that made the total improvement about
90%!!! It now steers, obviously not like a IFS, but not bad at
all...about like the steering on my '79 Bronco....a bit of wander, but
socially acceptable.
For the FIRST TIME since I've had this beast on the road (last Aug) I
honestly drove for a while and the steering was not on my mind, and you
can now use one hand most the time, just like the folks in the big
house.

I, like most of you, have been around a while, and have read all the
magazine articles, etc. on handling, etc., but this was the first time I
ever had a "before and after" experience with a sway bar, since usually
they are already on your vehicle when you buy it, so you really can't
tell what the actual improvement really is.
After having added disc brakes and power steering to the original front
axle, I can finally not have to want an IFS...it works that good.
I know it's not as good as an IFS, but, if anyone would like to stay
relatively stock, the sway bars (or at least the front one) is well
worth the investment and will give you one-arm driving ability, not that
you would want to necessarily drive with one arm, but I figure that is
the acid test as to if your "wandering" is under control or not.
TIP: If you do the front, be smart and order a new set of "U" bolts,
since you have to undo all 4. I was lucky, and only snapped one, but I
didn't want to take a chance for the $35 or so cost for all 4.

Unsolicited plug: I got great service from Mid50s in Indiana on this
purchase, but I wish they would have reminded me about the front U
bolts, to avoid a possible scenario of not being able to finish the job
in 2 PMs. I am a semi-mechanical illiterate, and the front took me
about 6 easy hours, and the rear about 4.

Regards, Paul

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:17:05 -0400
From: "Paul G."
Subject: Value of 55 trim.

There is a 55 pickup close by me here in Virginia with the optional
pitted chrome boomerang grill trim, plus the custom cab interior chrome
strip which runs horizontally across the dash/door area.

Are these things worth anything much? Roughly what would it cost to
redo the grill boomerangs?

Thanks, Paul G.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:20:39 -0400
From: "Paul G."
Subject: On the road to Pigeon Forge

Although I might be going to P.F. Thurs/Fri (early), I want you guys to
know that, as last year, if anyone is going down through Virginia and
you need something, get in a bind, etc, I am here.
I live in Waynesboro, which is just off of I81 & 64, about 375 miles
North of the show, I guess.
Paul Gayda Phone: 540.942.4212, or work: 540.949.8453

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:26:18 -0400
From: "Paul G."
Subject: Possible show.

I have a store in the Waynesboro Outlet Village called Tile Visions, a
ceramic tile showroom.
The Village sometimes sponsers a car show or two a year, since there are
some really large asphalt parking areas here, and we are just off of I64
about a block.

There might be a custom car show later in the season there, if I can
pick the brains of some other people who know what they're doing (they
have a Mustang show for Labor Day weekend also).
If anything comes of it, I'll post it here.
Here in the Shenandoah Valley there are a large amount of old vehicles,
but very few shows of any type. Any ideas are welcome.
Paul Gayda

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:24:52 EDT
From: Tstyskal
Subject: Re: Parts Locations/Restoration guide

I know someone is compiling a list of all the possible Ford parts businesses.
Here is one that is okay...Web site WW4.choice.net/~truck
They deal in 1928-79 Ford truck parts and manuals

For the Ford guy who wanted a guide to restore his truck this site above has a
book for sale with step by step restoration procedures for body, box.
engine, electrical, paint, metal, glass, etc.. (title: Step by Step
Restoration Guide. $24.95)
I hope that helps, I ordered one as I need allthe help I can get with the 53
F250 - Green Monster - I'm working on.. Have fun....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:51:37 EDT
From: RJC988
Subject: How to by a V8

Here goes. How does our list vote on my choice. I have the opportunity to buy
a 302/aod out of a '90 Lincoln Towncar for $400. There may be few other parts
from this car I can use. Would anybody try to put a computerized fuel injected
smog motor into a truck rod?

I also have a chance to buy a '79 F-100 for parts (although $2000).

I have valuable info from T-bird Terry and Bill(?). Lets see what else I get.
I love making an informed decision!

Glenn in Tenn
Soapy the "restofiable" '57 F-100

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:29:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott
Subject: primer

When it comes time to (finally) paint our truck I was wondering what
kind of primer to use. The front fenders are sandblasted and have
filler on them, the cab is just sanded, box is sandblasted and the
rear fenders are fiberglass. I know that there are a coupple
different kinds of primers such as epoxy, self etching... Any
comments on what works best?
Scott
==
1952 Ford Pickup now with Chromed bumper and grill!
Please take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9731/

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:44:50 EDT
From: Dyan65
Subject: Re: 53-59 models & engines

In a message dated 98-04-25 22:23:09 EDT, you write:

>
please take me off this e- mail list thankyou..

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:49:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott
Subject: 1952 truck

I was wondering if you had any pics of your truck that I could put on
my 1952 page?
Scott
==
1952 Ford Pickup now with Chromed bumper and grill!
Please take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9731/

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:07:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott
Subject: 1952 ford

Hey Tom,I was wondering if you had any pics of your 52 that I could
put on my 52 page?
Scott
==
1952 Ford Pickup now with Chromed bumper and grill!
Please take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9731/

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 23:50:37 -0400
From: "Abram H. Stauffer"
Subject: F-300 and bigger

Dan,
My brother owns a '53 F-600 dump truck. He uses it in his concrete
construction business. The truck is currently getting an engine
transplant. He had a 2nd. flathead put in a couple of years ago, but it
did not have the power the original did. I am not sure what he is
putting in now. The truck was originally a flatbed dump that someone
converted to a dumptruck. I don't think F-600's were orignally
dumptrucks.
Also, there is a feed mill near here that has a '53 F-600 it still
uses. I don't think it is licensed and inspected. They use it around the
mill. It is a 6 cyl.
Abe '54 F-100

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 00:11:10 -0400
From: Ray Cardogno
Subject: Gas drip/Bad Gauge readings

One drip per 20-30 seconds. Lost
>less than a pint of gas before it stopped as she sat stock still after
>filling, though heaven knows what she lost when cruising home yesterday
>and sloshing a bit at stops and starts.
>
>In addition, I've noticed the gas guage has been acting kind of funny the
>last week or so. Showing 3/4 plus at start, then going up toward full
>after she's warm, then back down sometimes. Hmmm.
>
>Jan
>'53 Ford F-250

Hi Jan,
About your gas leak. You might want to check the short peice of flexible
(usually munchy crunchy) approx 2-1/2 inch gas hose that connects the
filler neck to the tank. Sometimes they begin to leak when the truck sees
action after sitting a while or the rubber just gets plain old.

It is a little odd for me to tell you about intermitent gas gauge problems
since none of my gas gauges work properly. However I do know why they dont
work. It's more than likely that your sending unit is worn out or corroded.
It is a mechanical variable resistor that operates on a float and it is
constantly bouncing around and wearing (out). They do sell repros and are
not that hard to have installed. Make sure you check your connections
before jumping to this conclusion.

Ray C

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 00:29:23 -0400
From: Ray Cardogno
Subject: F-350 or Larger...

>To all list members:
>
>Does anybody personally own a F-300 or larger? ('53-59, that is)
>I would like to ask you a few questions about it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan

I own an F-500, 600, 700/55, 53, 54. Ask away, I'll help if I can...

Ray C

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 00:43:20 EDT
From: AMorgan351
Subject: Re: 57 truck style, 54 grill

Times Change!
I used to think that the 57-60 series was ugly too, but then I couldn't resist
one a few years later. I got the long wide bed, custom cab and I've really
gotten attached to it, especially the big chrome grille with the in your face
V8.
AL with the no-name 57

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 00:47:54 EDT
From: AMorgan351
Subject: Re: Red letters on hubcaps

I was just down at Hub Cap City in San Jose last weekend looking at old ford
pickup hubcaps and ford was always red on the older hubcaps.
AL with the no-name 57

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 07:58:32 EDT
From: FoMoCoNUT2
Subject: Re: Red letters on hubcaps

In a message dated 4/27/98 12:52:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
AMorgan351 aol.com writes:

>


Any chance they have some type of ordering service? I am in need of some for
the daily driver, she looks good on one side and not the other. Could you
supply phone, address etc.... thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 10:14:39 -0500
From: Rich Garber
Subject: Restoration

>For the Ford guy who wanted a guide to restore his truck this site above
has a
>book for sale with step by step restoration procedures for body, box.
>engine, electrical, paint, metal, glass, etc.. (title: Step by Step
>Restoration Guide. $24.95)

I've been thinking about this subject since it was posted. Its amazing,
when you been doing this sort of thing for so long, that you really have to
think about the process in order to break it down.

One of the first things I aquire, when I get a new or different truck, is
a shop manual. When you get into the sub assembles (trans, engine, etc.)
it gives you all the detail. So along with all the "how to books" buy
a shop manual.

Some don't realize exactly how expensive it can be or how much time is
required
to build a old truck. I've seen so many or make that to many projects in
junk yards that got old or to expensive to finish. Worse yet when owner
didn't put enough thought or planning into how it will all fit together
and ends up just destroying what could have been somthing nice.

My advise to a first time bulider is to keep it stock, get a feel for the
dollars spent, take your time putting it together and get it back on the
road. After thats finished mabey then start to modify it.

To do a restoration (talking about doing it yourself) you will need some
basic equipment.
1) Air compressor - Get a good one!, I have a 7 H.P. that throws 17 C.F.M
90 P.S.I, when blasting you need that kind of air flow.
a)cost with wiring, water traps, plumbing about $1100.00
2) Blasting Equipment - You will need both a pressure blaster and a siphon
feed.
I use the siphon feed for small jobs, pressure for the
large jobs (you can do a frame with a siphon feed, but
it take forever and does'nt do a great job.
a)cost- siphon feed (blast from a bucket) $20.00.
Pressure blaster- $200.00
3) Air tools- Cut off tool(a must), Body work tools (also a must), paint
gun
a)cost - $200.00
4) MIG weilder- You have to get rid of the rust, rust through has to be cut
out and new metal has to be put in. You can't cover it.
a) cost - with the accy's. $700.00
5) Hand tools - Most of us have these so I won't go into this.

So as you can see, I've spent over $2000.00 and hav'nt even started on the
truck. You could easily spend mor that this getting "set up". So please
think about what you need before you get started.

Sorry to ramble, had to get this off my chest.

I have found some trucks "for sale" in WI/MN. Because I spent all my money
on the above, already have a project, and want to keep my wife, I will kindly
pass these along.

These two came from the weekly shoper. I havn't seen them and no nothing
more about them.

1) 57 Ford Short Box- 715-265-4707 (all the ad said)
2) 54 Ford Pick-up $1495.00, Turtle Lake Auto 715-986-2424 (I have to stay
far away from this one)

I did see a 59 or 60, I think its a 60, F350 in two tone and looks to
be original in a junk yard, crome grill, a neat spot light with rear view
mirror. Looked to be complete and restorable as well as straight.
Petrie's Auto Wrecking 612-732-6634.

If any one is interested, I would (if I have time and the possible buyer
is to far away) go look at it for you. I hesitate on looking at the 54
(I have a soft spot for these, and it might end up in my garage).

Thanks All,

Rich
54 F100


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 07:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: rear tanks for 56


Michelle,

still looking for the Isuzu Trooper article, but maybe these will help
October 1995 Custom & Classic Trucks Center Line F-100 Project used
an aftermarket tank from Tanks, Inc (41-48 Che*y) shows the install
and gives the details...

and

Classic Trucks August 1995...Fat Fendered Rod Shop installed a "Super
Tank" (their product) in a 56...26 gallon and requires "C-ing" the
frame for the filler neck to exit the left frame rail...but a really
nice installation..

let me know if you can't find these articles and I'll mail or fax to
you

Still searching for the trooper article and don't forget about the
Mustange tank I mentioned before

culater

john

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:05:49 -0400
From: Cathy Greenlaw
Subject: Re: primer

Scott wrote:

> I was wondering what
> kind of primer to use. The front fenders are sandblasted and have
> filler on them, the cab is just sanded, box is sandblasted and the rear
> fenders are fiberglass. different kinds of primers such as epoxy, self
> etching... Any
> comments on what works best?
> Scott

I had a discussion with the paint manager of a one of the larger auto parts
store here, they pedal Dupont paints. His advice was if there is any rust,
as in sanded parts, use self etching, if the surface is white blasted, with
no rust pits, use epoxy, if not sure use self etching. He suggested not
using self etching over body work it plastic filler. but a friend who does
several jobs a year, has used self etch with and without body work with no
problems. I've never painted fiberglass, but bet there is a special primer
just for it. What I plan to do on mine is self etch first, then body work,
then epoxy, then primer sealer. Even if the body work strips the self
etch, it won't get it out of deep pits, where it's doing the most good
anyway. The epoxy should make a strong well bonded base and the sealer will
cover minor scratches and prevent lifting by the final coats, which are
going to be acrylic enamel, use I'm to cheap for clear coats, and don't
trust my health with urethanes.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 15:16:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: Re: F-350 or Larger...

Ray,

Nice to hear about your 'big boys' - F-500, F-600, F-700. What I
really need is some advice on which to look for. I need a truck that
is an F350 or bigger. I don't need a flatbed, dumptruck, etc. I just
need the bigger body style. I'm actually going to be using the truck
for general small-farm use. I'm looking at the fifties because I like
the body styles from back then. The truck I get will not be restored,
but will be cleaned up, rebuilt and made to look sharp.

What are the differences between your 500, 600 and 700?
(specifically - engine, weight, axles, towing, etc.)

How do these compare to, say, a 400?
Also, which year(s) is(are) your favorite?


Thanks for letting me pick your brain.

Dan




- ---Ray Cardogno wrote:
>
> >To all list members:
> >
> >Does anybody personally own a F-300 or larger? ('53-59, that is)
> >I would like to ask you a few questions about it.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Dan
>
> I own an F-500, 600, 700/55, 53, 54. Ask away, I'll help if I can...
>
> Ray C

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 15:24:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: Re: F-300 and bigger

> Dan,
> My brother owns a '53 F-600 dump truck. He uses it in his
> concrete construction business. The truck is currently getting an
> engine transplant.
> The truck was originally a flatbed dump that someone converted to a
> dumptruck. I don't think F-600's were orignally dumptrucks.

Probably not, but I can't really say.

> Also, there is a feed mill near here that has a '53 F-600 it
> still uses. I don't think it is licensed and inspected. They use it
> around the mill. It is a 6 cyl.


This brings up a good point. As I understand it, many of these trucks
came with sixes. I wonder how big the engine bays are.

Anybody know how big of an engine will fit in the bay of an F400
and up? (i'd prefer to stay away from 'modern conveniences' as much as
possible)


Thanks,

Dan

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:17:36 -0400
From: Cathy Greenlaw
Subject: Re: How to by a V8

RJC988 wrote:

> Here goes. How does our list vote on my choice. I have the opportunity to buy
> a 302/aod out of a '90 Lincoln Towncar for $400. There may be few other parts
> from this car I can use. Would anybody try to put a computerized fuel injected
> smog motor into a truck rod?.

I would kiss your rosy backside for a $400 '90 fulie motor. The real question is
why would anybody going to the trouble of a swap not put in a EFI. Carbs are a
waste of your time these days. The 90 motor will take headers, aftermarket cam,
even a blower. And will run up to 400Hp with the factory intake and computer. All
this and you can still say you are doing more to keep the air clean than than the
twenty other guys who yanked the cats off, dropped in a firebomb Holley and said
they had a hot rod. Tell you what, buy the 302, pop off the cats, and send me the
air meter and computer. I'll send you a set of long tube headers, a Weiland intake
and a 600 double pumper. Later we can race.

47 Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 19:06:18 -0400
From: Cathy Greenlaw
Subject: Re: F-300 and biggest

Dan Koster wrote:

> > Dan,Anybody know how big of an engine will fit in the bay of an F400
> and up? (i'd prefer to stay away from 'modern conveniences' as much as
> possible)
> Thanks,
> Dan

Why not dig up and bury a V-16 Caddy motor in there, or better yet a
stroked 500 Caddy; that and a 1500 gallon tank from a '50's oil truck to
keep it fed. Won't run into a lot of those rigs at the local drive in, and
you can darn straight call it an odd rod.

47 Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 20:12:32 -0400
From: Thomas Teixeira
Subject: Gas tank - repair or replace?

We just got our '35 pickup working well enough to get registered and to
pass the state safety inspection, and also filled up the tank for the first
time. Unfortunately, it was leaking from at least three places. Two of
these were easy to fix: by the filler neck (went away after tightening with
big channellocks), the sending unit (had to re-epoxy the metal adapter ring
for the modern sending unit), and one or more other places, probably near....


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