fordtrucks-digest Thursday, January 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 011
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
RE: fordtrucks-digest V2 #10 [Tim Clark ]
In need of some answers [ILL COM 56 ]
More on the 48 ford ["Olson Family" ]
Re: More on the 48 ford [Alec Fernandez ]
Compatable engines [Josh Hamilton ]
[none] [jc& terry ]
[none] [jc& terry ]
Re: 302 in a 51 [Wrench846 ]
Decoding VIN's [Rab Rawlins ]
Re: Decoding VIN's [Scott Sheldrake ]
52 F-1 ["Bart Munns" ]
ADMIN: 1997+, java chat, expenses and more [Ken Payne
Bolt-on HP for Y-Blocks [Ben Thompson ]
ADMIN: Shockwarehouse [Ken Payne ]
Re: fordtrucks-digest V2 #10 [NDKOTA ]
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:46:07 -0600
From: Tim Clark
Subject: RE: fordtrucks-digest V2 #10
>Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:24:05 -0700
>From: "Olson Family"
>Subject: 1948 ford questions
>I am new to this list but I have some questions that I hope some of you can
>answer. This is my first truck restoration so please bear with me.
>I found a 1948 (so I am told but I haven't checked for sure what year) ford
>pickup truck with a V8 flathead engine. I think the engine may be siezed
>but it looks complete. The transmition, dirive shaft and differential are
>all there. There is no box on it but the cab has fair paint good sheet
>metal exept for right front fender, bumper and running boards. I am told
>the brakes didn't work when it was parked. As you would have guessed the
>tires are bald and flat (7.50/17R size tires) and all the glass is
>broken.How much work/money would you guess I would have to put into it? How
>hard is it to find parts? Is this a fairly easy truck to repair? How much
>money should I offer for it? Thanks in advance for any help.
> Murphee's Law of restoration is:
>It will always take twice as long and cost twice as much.
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:18:20 EST
From: ILL COM 56
Subject: In need of some answers
I have a 56 f100 and right now it is sporting a 460. I have recently come
across a newer 429 injected motor. I have been looking into this motor with
not many results. If anyone can give me some info on this engine it would be
greatly appreciated. Mostly what i'm looking for is what this engine would
build up like into horses/power/ect. Would i be smarter to leave it injected
or swap the heads on my 460 onto the 429 and carburate the 429?? Or would i be
smarter to keep the 460 and put the money i would spend ont the 429 into the
460 and build it up?? If you guys could give me some advice i would appreciate
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:32:12 -0700
From: "Olson Family"
Subject: More on the 48 ford
Thanks for all of your responses. What I am hearing is that I shouldn't be
intrested in this truck unless I can get it for under 150 dollars. From
what you have all said parts are not to hard to find but could be
It would probably end up costing me 5000 plus dollars to restore. I checked
and this truck is a F-E8. Does that change anything? What is the
difference between F1, F3, F-E8? Sorry but I don't know much about ford
trucks. Last question is does anyone have any ballpark figures on the
breakdown of cost between mechanical costs (ie engine, drivetrain, brakes,
tires ect) and cosmetic (body work, paint, lights, ect) if not that is
alright. Thanks again for everyones help.
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:28:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Alec Fernandez
Subject: Re: More on the 48 ford
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks for all of your responses. What I am hearing is that I shouldn't be
> intrested in this truck unless I can get it for under 150 dollars. From
> what you have all said parts are not to hard to find but could be
> It would probably end up costing me 5000 plus dollars to restore. I checked
> and this truck is a F-E8. Does that change anything? What is the
> difference between F1, F3, F-E8? Sorry but I don't know much about ford
Well, the F-800 had larger wheels (as you have told us, the f-100's or f1
has 15" wheels) they carry a lot more payload and the drive train and
brakes are all completely different. I'm sure someone else can help with
the "E" designation (factory flat bed?)
Unless you have a particular need to carry around 6000 pounds at a time
and/or enjoy being able to drive over a dime and tell whether it was heads
or tails (read stiff suspension), I'd look for an f-1. They are much
easier to find parts for and easier to drive, and just a more convenient
truck to use/show off.
Just off the top of my head id say the glass is gonna cost around 1000
(by the time you get gaskets and felt) the fender is gonna be around
150 if you can find one for an f-8 (bigger wheel wells) Running boards
are available NOS (for my '56 anyway) for 300 a side. Then the bed
is gonna be a problem because F-1 beds are easy to come by but I don't
know about f-8 beds...
Then there's the finish work, sand blasting, body work and paint and that
can range from the Earl Schieb special to 5 digits depending on how
slick a finish you want.
The engine rebuilds start around 2200 - 2300 and go up from there depending
on what all is wrong.
If you're just looking for a project truck (especially your first one)
for heaven's sake start smaller. Find a 48 out there that somebody is
tired of (there are plenty to be had), one that runs and the brakes work.
Give the guy/gal whatever he/she is asking (more or less ;-) and then
you can work on it a little at a time as time permits and enjoy driving
it all the while. Get an f-1, parts are plentiful and as easy as a phone
call and ups truck away. I went wild with an old car, bought a project
and built it from the ground up and ended up dreading having to work on
the thing. The truck I bought was in really good shape, no rust, ran
OK, good brakes, sure I paid 2500 for it but you making a bunch of that
back on the rebuild cost.
I'd caution you about buying a parts truck until you have secured the
one you're gonna rebuild because unless you wedded to a particular year
you never know what you're gonna fall in love with. Especially with
an F-8 I don't know how much stuff that is good is interchangeable.
One other hint, starting in '56 they came with 12 volt negative ground
electrical systems, this makes them a little more driveable. (be
especially careful on this last bit of info though as I may be a
bit biased ;-)
And remember, advice in general is usually worth about what you pay
Now get out there and buy one for the Gipper!
Best of luck,
> trucks. Last question is does anyone have any ballpark figures on the
> breakdown of cost between mechanical costs (ie engine, drivetrain, brakes,
> tires ect) and cosmetic (body work, paint, lights, ect) if not that is
> alright. Thanks again for everyones help.
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, removal form on the web |
> | site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:29:12 -0600
From: Josh Hamilton
Subject: Compatable engines
I have a 1959 F-100 and I have had some trouble with putting a 223 back
in it. I have purchased three engines and all have had bad blocks. So
I am considering finding another engine type for this truck. Which
engines came in this truck and what will fit back in it? It has the
original Synchromesh transmission so I was unsure about which engines
will bolt up to it. I am not looking for any hot rod ideas I just want
to get it back out on the street with a fairly old engine in it. Thank
you for any information.
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:24:05 -0800
From: jc& terry
.How much work/money would you guess I would have to put into
> it? How
> hard is it to find parts? Is this a fairly easy truck to repair? How
> money should I offer for it? Thanks in advance for any help.
i agree with everyone else josh, this is a really big project and a
tremendous amount of bucks. i have known guys that did this and enjoyed
every bit. others got so burned on the junk they had in the yard they never
wanted to do another project again. we don't want this to happen to you. old
ford trucks are everywhere. they are telling the truth when they say 3 out
of 4 are still on the road. i would look for a better base starter but that
is me. if you are up to it and have a big billfold you go for it. you have
plenty of help right here on the line. never look at your truck as a money
maker. the best we do is have a job to support our habit. it is a lot of
fun and you can go a million different ways with it. just make sure it is
always fun. keep us informed.
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:35:03 -0800
From: jc& terry
I really have a hard time keeping my set of billet wheels clean and beautiful.
Can anybody tell me what is the best thing to use?
billet is aluminum and the only thing i know of that makes it shine is lots
of elbo grease. that is the reason that chrome has stayed around so long.
it's easier to clean although it still takes a lot of work. magnesium
wheels disapeared for this same reason. you see more and more painted
bumpers and wheels these days. could be the reason. mother's, simi chrome,
and a host of other products all claim to offer superior shine but it
doesn't jump on by itself. they now have some compuonds that supposedly seal
the finish and they still make all kinds of waxes. this will help but it is
just the nature of the metal. hope this helps.
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:11:17 EST
Subject: Re: 302 in a 51
About that engine swap. You can do it,
but forget about all that after market stuff
stick with the original wiring harness you will be a lot better off. One thing
you should rember is that you need the gas tank and fuel pump from the doner
truck, also the trans. without that the computer wont work right. You
shouldnt need to worry about calibrating anything as long as the truck ran ok
before pulling the engine everything should be ok after the change over.
Oh and by the way that late model fuel injected 302 is a dog A pre 80s
300 will give you more power and better gas mi.
Can anyone help me decode these V.I.N.'s? I'm particularly interested in
the paint and interior codes. Both trucks are Canadian Merc.'s with box
and hoist setups. I'm sure the one ton B & H is factory but it looks
like the three tons an aftermarket. Any surefire way to tell? Thanks for
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 18:24:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott Sheldrake
Subject: Re: Decoding VIN's
- ---Rab Rawlins wrote:
> Can anyone help me decode these V.I.N.'s? I'm particularly
> the paint and interior codes. Both trucks are Canadian Merc.'s with
> and hoist setups. I'm sure the one ton B & H is factory but it looks
> like the three tons an aftermarket. Any surefire way to tell? Thanks
> any help.
> 1949 Mercury 135
> Series: M135
> Engine: 96-23532
> Model: RW81
> Trim: 16
> Paint: 21
> Serial #: RM81H49-35533
> GVW: 13500lbs.
> W.B.: 158"
> Nov.3 1949 stamped on firewall
> 1949 Mercury M68
> Series: M68
> Engine: 9J-10383
> Model: PF81
> Trim: 16
> Paint: 22
> Serial #: PF81H49-27150
> GVW: 6800lbs.
> W.B.: 124"
Try going to this site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ww4.choice.net/~oftc/
It's The Old Ford Truck Club, they have the id info on the 1951-56,
the paint #'s might be the same. Hope This helps.
1952 Ford Pickup
Please take a look at my 1952 Ford Pickup Page:
DO YOU YAHOO!?
I have a 52' F-1 that I'm working on. It didn't have an engine when I
bought it, but the body is sound. I'm putting a Ford 460 in it, with
Holley 4 carbs, and everything's going along good. I'm thinking about
cutting the cab right behind the door frame, and extending it about two
feet. I have no idea how it is going to look, but the extra space is
greatly needed. I was wondering if any of you have done anything like
this, or have any comments or tips that would help me out. Thanx ahead
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:56:30 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: 1997+, java chat, expenses and more
The web site vote for the 1997+ list expired last week. The
For new list: 73%
Don't Care: 4%
The 1997+ F150 & 1998+ F250/350 list should come alive this
weekend. As a test it will use SmartList/Procmail instead
of Majordomo for its list server software. If it works out
okay all the lists will be moved over (in about a month).
Majordomo takes up a lot of our time with administration.
Subscribe instructions will be announced this weekend and a web
site subscribe form will be place on the web pages.
Finally got the Java server enabled for the web site. I'm in
the process of getting the Java chat running now. Just in the
nick of time for our 1st anniversary chat this Saturday.
Announcement will be made when it's functional.
I hate discussing what I'm about to discuss but....
We have about 10 static cling window stickers left.
For those that don't know what these are, see them on the web site.
Peggy is working on a T-shirt design but it won't go to press
until the stickers are all gone (more stickers will be printed).
Sale of these stickers help support our expenses.
Its been a while since I've posted our expenses and I know that
early on I promised to post these every now and then....
Our expenses are:
$ 24.95/month - web server 1 (www.ford-trucks.com) + 1 time $30 charge
$ 7.00/month - web server 2 (www.fordtrucks.com) + 1 time $30 charge
(already bringing in 200+ extra visitors/day)
$ 20.00/month - mailing lists (soon to be $25/month)
$100.00 Internic fee for www.ford-trucks.com for 2 years
$100.00 Internic fee for www.fordtrucks.com for 2 years
$187.00 printer setup, stamps and envelopes for window stickers and
$ 20.00 registration fee for keyboard macro utility (this is a must
for any mailing list administration)
$ 50.00 banner ad script
$139.00 scanner - prior to this purchase we used a scanner at Kinkos
at it was costing us $18/hour. This scanner has been a must
given the number of photos mailed to us.
$ 70.00 business license (any day now). This is a must. We have
grown beyond the "hobby" stage.
$ 30.00/month second phone line - we now spend 1-4 hours daily
administering the lists/web site and a second line is a must
if we expect to have anyone get in touch with us.
$ 21.00 every 6 months for the PO box.
$ ??.?? numerous small misc expenses we incur
As you can see our costs are significant. With our ads we're breaking
even (barely). If you wish to support our efforts please purchase one
of our stickers or the parts source guide (this is a great book);
information is on the web site. We could really use support through
the purchase of stickers/books as we just paid another $140 fee for
another 6 months of web service - current paid up time is credited
to the 6 months. Additionally, we plan to print out "Tried, True and
Ford Blue - www.ford-trucks.com" cards to give out at the Pigeon
Forge F100 Nationals - this is a minor expense but it does add to the
We no longer take donations unless you want to inflate the $3 sticker
price and I'm not sure what our status would be with donations. Once
again, I'd like to thank everyone who has helped with donations last
year - your support has helped tremendously.
We're in the process of making wholesale arrangements with a
Ford trucks reproduction parts company. We hope to offer books,
manuals, stickers, underhood tags, owner's manuals, guides and
more at a discount in order to support the site. For the newer
truck owners - we're working on other arrangements.
As always, when our income goes up we try to increase our services for
the members. I believe our track record shows sincerity in this
respect. Speaking of which, in addition to the java chat and new
list the free web space I announced earlier with be available to
members for non-commercial Ford truck sites within 2 weeks.
You'll get full password access so you can upload your pages without
having to send them to me first. Announcement will be made when
this is ready.
Returning you to our regular program... please send any discussion
concerning these items directly to: kpayne mindspring.com
This announcement interrupts the list and talks enough about money
without having a group discussion about it. However, if you feel
you have something to say on these topics that's relevant to the
group feel free to do so.
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:26:41 +0000
From: Ben Thompson
Subject: Bolt-on HP for Y-Blocks
I have a '56 F350 9-ft express with a 272-2V, single exhaust. I
bought it about 8 years ago from a retired plumbing contractor who
claimed to have driven it and worked off it nearly every day since it
was new. The engine has a sticker on it claiming it to be of genuine
Ford remanufacture, although I have no way of knowing how many miles
or years ago that was. A recent omygod with a head gasket has
prompted me to think rebuild, and while I'm at it, I thought, why not
improve it just a wee bit?
My current plan/fantasy is to rebuild with 312 heads for their bigger
valves, a 4V manifold and carb, and headers with dual exhaust. By
boring to a 292 and using dome-top pistons, I hope to end up at about
My questions are as follows:
1. Does any of this sound foolish?
2. What do I need to do to make sure my block is up to all this?
3. Will I need to change the cam, and if so, where can I get the right
4. Anybody have a good source for the parts I have mentioned?
(312 heads, 4v manifold, original ram-horn headers)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:26:03 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Shockwarehouse
Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts:
We have a new advertiser on our web site. As we did for our
other advertisers, we're going to make a brief announcement
for 2 days. Please show your appreciation to them for helping
to support the web site and lists by checking out their site:
(This is an "anchor" page that will forward you to theirs)
Shockwarehouse sells shocks, struts, cartridge inserts,
strut bearing plates, load levelers, air shocks,
“Muscle” Elastomer Springs and a bunch of other suspension
We would like to have them know that you heard about them via
the Ford Truck Enthusiasts group.
Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program...
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:17:08 EST
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