fordtrucks-digest Thursday, April 16 1998 Volume 02 : Number 104
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
New Kids on the Block ["Don & Teresa Neighbors" ]
re 9"ers [jniolon uss.com]
re lincoln rear/ford truck [jniolon uss.com]
carb inlet fitting [Ray Cardogno ]
Re: carb inlet fitting [Brian Roczen ]
Re: recommended reading [Ken Payne ]
Re: DC coil transformers [Darcy Lee Davis ]
Re: recommended reading ["Bill Hale" ]
RE: DC coil transformers [Alec Fernandez ]
RE: DC coil transformers [Alec Fernandez ]
Re: recommended reading [Ken Payne ]
55-56 style, dimpled fender [KLaff61624 ]
lincoln rearend [KLaff61624 ]
Re: Newbys [Rich Garber ]
Re: Chop Top [Rich Garber ]
Re: carb inlet fitting [Rich Garber ]
Re: Oil Bath Bounty Hunt [Rich Garber ]
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 06:30:27 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: New Kids on the Block
Professor Shaupp wrote:
"I'm a woodworker and a computer science prof -and
haven't touch a vehicle since the late 50's and then only stock cars with
the old 59A block. Where do we start learning?"
The most important thing to know about working on any old vehicle is which
end of the screwdriver to use for a pry bar and which end to use for a
hammer. After that, you have it licked. Seriously, you've come to the right
place. If the truck is in good shape, and not a rust bucket, it will be a
GREAT project truck and daily driver.
the reason forthe limited slip (or equal loc) is traction...it will be
behind a 460/C-6 in a 53 F-100...one wheel spinning is not
cool...smoke'em both... think the extra traction will be a benefit,
don't you ?
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 06:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: re lincoln rear/ford truck
If I understand your problem you're finding the lincoln rear end too
narrow for the truck frame ??? (or is it the other way around.
We just put a 76 Lincoln Mark IV 9" rear under my 53 f-100. The rear
end was way wide. I wanted to put as fat as possible tires under the
fenders. (using stretched fenders you can do 295's which are about
11.75 inches wide.) I think we cut the rear end down 5-3/8" and hung
it using ladder bars and coil overs.. We're still in the frame stage
so I can't tell you about the ride yet but it looks great. I'm
looking for a equal-loc now to replace the conventional 2.75:1 chunk
now...the old one is in good shape but I think the extra traction will
help with a 460...
BTW there is a great rebuild article on those funky Lincoln disc brake
setups in the April 98 issue of Pop Hot rodding..it was also in Street
Rodder sometime this spring and in the Street Rodder Annual this
year..good reading..these setups are kinda perculiar. If you can't
find it let me know and I'll fax or mail to you..
>From: Ray Cardogno
>Subject: carb inlet fitting
>I had to steal the brass fitting that threads into the carb from 1 of my
>trucks and now it's time to replace it. Can't find one anywhere (auto
>parts, industrial supply, For dealer) It is the one that the 5/16" gas line
>flare nut (ie brake line type of fitting) goes into. It seats against the
>carb alloy using a flat washer type gasket. Does anyone have an extra?
Oops. It's the small 2-barrel carb that has been on every 53-56 truck I've
driven. Sorry, no numbers or tags. Can ayone perhaps idnetify the thread
size that goes into the carb, or maybe even where I could get one of these?
If you peek ahead to the bottom, I too am a cog in the academic wheel.
Forgive me if I don't have much to say about inductance or di/dt's. I try
to keep my "hobbies" separate. When I get arround old cars, my brain says:
Hell, run a wire straight off the battery right to that coil and run
I'm new to the Ford truck world. I was schooled by a 62 falcon, and remain
a fan of the early 62's ford cars. My dad, though is itching for a 56
f-100, and I have a lead on a 55 here in TN.
Please respond to couple of boring questions from the newbie, e-me
personally if you fear the flames of subjective answers.
What is the difference in desirability, worth, availability between 55, 56
And, How many had the dimpled fender for a spare tire, is this a sought
thanks in advance
Dept. of Mathematics
University of Tennessee
For some serious vintage car reading, I would suggest s*bcribing to SKINNED
KNUCKLES. It a pretty good old car mag, though not Ford specific. They have
a deal now: suscribe for a year and get something like fifty back issues. I
did and this and a box full of magazines came. It poses a daunting challenge
to read them all. But, if you are going to be on your back for a serious
length of time, maybe, you could get through them all.
g*t well soon
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:18:34 -0600 (MDT)
From: Darcy Lee Davis
Subject: Re: DC coil transformers
- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Ray and Roger. Correct me if I'm wrong (as a teen they say I know-it-all),
as my knowledge base is mostly from small engines. I thought that the
points were located in the distributer. If this is true, and the current
flows from the coil to the points, isn't it impossible for there to be
changing current in the primary coil?
And Alex, I have had a chance to try this out on my 30cc go-kart engine
quite a few times (its the fastest way to shut them off in the event of a
stuck throttle). Of course, if you really want to try that on your 5.8L
(or 351ci.), go ahead. I hear they use electrical pulses for pain releif
in Physio therapy, so you probably won't have to worry about that back
pain you've been getting everytime you try leaning over the rad to tighten
your fan belt (then again, you probably won't have to worry about any pain
F68's (6800 GVWR, 3/4 ton truck) as Canadians, are proud to be fewer in
number and so distinguished from their American counterparts the
Darcy and 3 X 48 F68
When ever I feel a pain in my backside while working on the
truck, I don't need electro shock therapy, I just tell my wife
to go back inside the house and quit asking me if I remembered
to tighten that last bolt. (Then when we're going down the
road and hear a rattle, I NEVER admit that it's the bolt I
forgot to tighten).
The wiring at the coil is pretty simple:
On the primary Side the 12 (or 6) volt
positive comes from the ignition switch The negative comes
through the engine block into the distributor body and into
one side of the points and condenser. Then when the points
are closed the circuit continues out of the distributor (down
low through the thin wire that exits at the bottom of the
distributor) and over to the negative side of the coil.
So the two thin wires on the coil are the primary side and you
get voltage from the ignition switch and the distributor via the
points. Then when the points open, the 12v ceases to go to the
coil and that's when all that half-baked-phase-inductance stuff
happens. the result of this is a very short pulse of 25KV out of
the top of the coil (this is the secondary side) and it goes
through the primary wire (looks like a spark plug wire over
to the center of the distributor
cap, where it is transferred to the rotor in the distributor (if
you remembered to put it in, this is where your wife will come
in handy) depending on which tower the rotor is pointing towards
the current jumps to the tower and into the spark plug wire
then to the spark plug where it jumps across the spark plug gap
And don't worry, that 25K won't hurt you too bad, I've been bitten
many times.... I think it just causes brain damage.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darcy Lee Davis [SMTP:ddavis acs.ucalgary.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 1998 11:19 AM
> To: fordtrucks
> Subject: Re: DC coil transformers
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Ray and Roger. Correct me if I'm wrong (as a teen they say I know-it-all),
> as my knowledge base is mostly from small engines. I thought that the
> points were located in the distributer. If this is true, and the current
> flows from the coil to the points, isn't it impossible for there to be
> changing current in the primary coil?
> And Alex, I have had a chance to try this out on my 30cc go-kart engine
> quite a few times (its the fastest way to shut them off in the event of a
> stuck throttle). Of course, if you really want to try that on your 5.8L
> (or 351ci.), go ahead. I hear they use electrical pulses for pain releif
> in Physio therapy, so you probably won't have to worry about that back
> pain you've been getting everytime you try leaning over the rad to tighten
> your fan belt (then again, you probably won't have to worry about any pain
> ever again)
> F68's (6800 GVWR, 3/4 ton truck) as Canadians, are proud to be fewer in
> number and so distinguished from their American counterparts the
> Thanks guys
> Darcy and 3 X 48 F68
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, removal form on the web |
> | site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
Please not that on the Pre- 12 Volt systems (I think 55 was the changeover
year) The ground was positive, so the primary side of the coil would get the
negative side from the ignition switch and the postive side from the points.
Furthermore, the 12v systems use a resistor to reduce the voltage to the
points down to around 6v (this reduces heat at the points and reduces the
of metal transfer to the anode side of the points so they last longer).
There is a little circuit so that while you are cranking the engine
switch in the starter position) the current bypasses the resistor and what
ever voltage is left over from the starting motor goes straight to the
and on the the coil.
Brian , the 56 is considered more desireable because the body style is
different from the 53-55, which share the same basic style. Yes the grill and
emblems on the 53-55 are different,but they still share the same cab design.
The 56 has a squared door and windowshield pillar and is the only model that
has a large back window option. As for which is more desireable that is
pretty much the only reasons, excluding personal taste. The dimpled rear
fender is rare compaired to the regular fender, but most people find a spare
tire mounted on the side of a truck ugly.....but not everyone , again its a
matter of what you like best.....to h--- with everyone else , your the one it
has to suit and your the one that will live with it. Whatever you decide be it
the year model or to dimple or not to dimple, I for one will respect your
decission and appreciate the truck for the workmanship and your desire to
preserve, customise, or restore such a classic.
Charlie we need more info on your problem. If your rearend is to narrow for
the stock bed , then you can use wheels with a offset that will widen your
rear. If it is too narrow for the frame( which I doubt ) then you have a
bigger problem. If the rearend is too wide to fit the tires inside the fender
you have 2 options, well 3. 1-narrow the rear axle, 2- buy wheels that have
a inset , 3-change the rearend.
>What is the difference in desirability, worth, availability between 55, 56
Hey, we all know the 54 is the most desired, lowest production numbers,
last year for 6 volt and cloth wire. Its the one to get!
>And, How many had the dimpled fender for a spare tire, is this a sought
>I thought that I had been fortunate in locating an Oil Bath Air Cleaner
>for my 55 F100. No so. My 317.5 Y Block is almost a love hate....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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