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Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 03:50:22 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #7
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
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fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, September 30 1997 Volume 01 : Number 007



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

3 Duece's on Y-Block [JD Hollingsworth Jr ]
Re: 3 Duece's on Y-Block ["Howard Tarnoff" ]
Re: Stock Air Cleaner Wanted [JRFiero aol.com]
RE: stock air cleaner and beds parts ["Neal B. Forbes"
Re: 52 Ford F1 HELP!! ["Joe Michels" ]
Re: Flathead [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: 52 Ford F1 HELP!! [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Y-block Question [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Temp Guage & Sending Units [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: 3 Duece's on Y-Block [Art Starkey ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 13:34:12 -0700
From: JD Hollingsworth Jr
Subject: 3 Duece's on Y-Block

Hi Group,

I tried sending this last week but did'nt see it post so my appologies
if you have already seen it. I'm JD and new to the group. I have a 55
F100 that's mildly customized with a Y-Block, a 9" and a chevelle clip.
I've recently scored an Edelbrock FM-553 manifold with 3 Ford 94's. My
main problem is that there was no linkage with it. Can anyone turn me on
to a linkage supplier and _ANY_ info on the conversion such as internal
changes needed between the center and front and rear carbs?
Thanx in advance.

- --
Later,
JDH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:31:43 -0400
From: "Howard Tarnoff"
Subject: Re: 3 Duece's on Y-Block

JD,

I can not help you with the linkage, but I do have a question.

Do you still have the complete orig stock air cleaner assembly. I have a
55 with a stock 317 Y block and am looking for said unit.

Please advise,

Regards and good luck

Howard

- ----------
> From: JD Hollingsworth Jr
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: 3 Duece's on Y-Block
> Date: Monday, September 29, 1997 4:34 PM
>
> Hi Group,
>
> I tried sending this last week but did'nt see it post so my appologies
> if you have already seen it. I'm JD and new to the group. I have a 55
> F100 that's mildly customized with a Y-Block, a 9" and a chevelle clip.
> I've recently scored an Edelbrock FM-553 manifold with 3 Ford 94's. My
> main problem is that there was no linkage with it. Can anyone turn me on
> to a linkage supplier and _ANY_ info on the conversion such as internal
> changes needed between the center and front and rear carbs?
> Thanx in advance.
>
> --
> Later,
> JDH
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:55:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: Stock Air Cleaner Wanted

In a message dated 97-09-28 15:50:55 EDT, you write:


for
a 55 317 with 2 bbl? >>

Somebody at Carlisle this weekend undoubtedly has one. Search for Carlisle
Productions if there's not a link on the Truck website. You'd have to know
exactly what it looks like and measures, 'cause there're a ton of different
oil baths out there.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 21:05:11 -0400
From: "Neal B. Forbes"
Subject: RE: stock air cleaner and beds parts

To Howard--Try some of these choices. There is a YBlock engine site at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/Yblock/YBLOCK/htm and another site at
www.wrljet.com/engines/Yblock/html

the site at wrljet also has flattie info. there are swapmeet pages that
you might post to. A subscription to Classic Trucks magazine or a
newsstand copy has loads of ads for aftermarket suppliers

To Jay--magazine ads for bed parts have all the parts you need from bone
stock repro to cedar and stainless. There are several sources for you
there. Spend a couple of bucks for catalogs--you'll be amazed at what you
can get! I don't know if you can get plans to cut your own...

Neal (hotheap) Forbes 54 F100 292 YBlock


Attachment Converted: "C:\Internet\DOWNLOAD\WINMAIL3.DAT"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 21:14:15 -0600
From: "Joe Michels"
Subject: Re: 52 Ford F1 HELP!!

Rich-- Help me out!!! Am I going to tear the whole bell housing apart in
order to ascertain if the mice are in the bell housing? Is there an EASY
way to identify this characteristic?

Joebob

- ----------
> From: R Garber
> To: fordtrucks listservice.net
> Subject: Re: 52 Ford F1 HELP!!
> Date: Monday, September 29, 1997 4:51 AM
>
> At 08:23 PM 9/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >OK, the net provided lots of good ideas on getting spark, which we now
have,
> >however, am thinking that we must have stuck valves, the truck is
getting
> >both spark and fuel, however, NO START. It labors when turning over,
> >suggesting that the valves are stuck?
> >
> >How do I check for stuck valves?
> >
> >Assume that the valves are stuck-- what do I do to "UNSTICK" them
WITHOUT a
> >complete engine disassembly?
> >
> >A complete engine disassembly is GOING TO HAPPEN, however, I would like
to
> >have it run BEFORE I tear it apart?
> >
> >Anyone got any good ideas?/?
> >
> >joebob
> >
> >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> >| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> >| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> >+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
> >
> One thing I noticed on mine was a labored atempt to start. If its 6-volt
its
> different.
> Check that bell housing if it has had mice in it it will bind it up. Hard
to
> believe
> that the valves would stick after only two years. Mine sat for twenty.
>
> Rich
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:57:42 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Flathead

>>I will be replacing the water pump on my 1950 F-1 and I'm worried about
>>the bolt inside the water pump.
>
>I would be too. ;-)
>
>>Anyone have any experience? Will it be rusted and hard to remove or
>>will I be pleasantly surprised? If difficult, should I use an impact
>>wrench with the air pressure turned way down? Or?????????
>
>I've had them go a couple different ways. Hopefully all the bolts will
>come right out (intact) with minimal sweating and swearing. But be
>prepared for one to maybe break. I had this happen once and it is not
>pleasant. But considering that these bolts have been in there for maybe 50
>years you have to expect that.
>
>I don't think you'd need to use an impact wrench--the ones that are going
>to come out will do so with sockets/box wrenches. My only strong bit of
>advice is to have a set of easy-outs handy in case you break a bolt.

Acckk! There's a bolt *inside* the pump? That sounds like a fun feature..

I dunno flatheads too much, but I'd have my eazy-out set handy when I did
this one!

If the head is seriously rusted, it may be a pain to remove.
6 point sockets will get a better bite than 12 points, and sometimes You
can hammer a smaller size socket on to get a better bite.
Try Your metrics also. Sometimes a 12mm will get a bite on a wasted 1/2"
bolt head... 10mm will often hammer onto a 7/16" head, etc.

An impact wrench can be good or bad... You don't wanna twist the head off.
I have a small 3/8" drive impact that I like for this kinda stuff.
It doesn't make much torque, but often rattling the bolt with it for a
minute will break up the rust enough that I can then remove the bolt with
a ratchet. My 1/2" impact will often just bust little bolts.

Make sure to coat the threads with a good anti-seize compound when
reinstalling the new bolt. Whoever changes it next will love You...
This might be a good place for a stainless steel bolt, so the head can't
rust off.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:57:47 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: 52 Ford F1 HELP!!

>OK, the net provided lots of good ideas on getting spark, which we now have,
>however, am thinking that we must have stuck valves, the truck is getting
>both spark and fuel, however, NO START. It labors when turning over,
>suggesting that the valves are stuck?
>
>How do I check for stuck valves?
>
>Assume that the valves are stuck-- what do I do to "UNSTICK" them WITHOUT a
>complete engine disassembly?
>
>A complete engine disassembly is GOING TO HAPPEN, however, I would like to
>have it run BEFORE I tear it apart?
>
>Anyone got any good ideas?/?

Is the timing correct? Does it even try to fire on any cylinders, or
pop out the carb or exhaust, or any other signs of "life" ??

I would do a compression check to start with, to see if valves are really
Your problem.
I have a homemade leakdown tool I made by busting the insulator out of a
sparkplug and brazing an air fitting onto it.
I roll the motor over until the piston is at TDC on compression stroke,
install the "sparkplug tool" and put a little air pressure in the
cylinder. If You hear air coming out of the carb, You have a bad intake
valve. Air hissing out the tail pipe means bad exhaust valve.
Air out the crankcase vent means bad rings.
Open the radiator cap and watch for bubbles after a minute or 3...
Bubbles can mean bad head gasket or cracked head or block.

If You do find a stuck valve, You might remove the head and try and
dribble some Marvel Mystery Oil, or other good, light lubricant/solvent
down the valve stem into the guide, and then *gently* tap the valve head
with a plastic or brass hammer to try and free it up.

With an OHV motor You can remove the valve cover and lube/tap the
valve stem from above. On flathead it's a little tougher...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:57:51 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Y-block Question

>>My '54's 239 features the Ford carb that looks kind of like the Stromberg
>>carbs common at the time. In the years that the old truck has been
>>sitting, the spacer that sits under the carburetor has begun to
>>disintigrate, and as a result oozes gasoline when I start it up. I bought a
>>new gasket at a local parts place, but apparently they don't carry the
>>spacer.
>>Is this thing healthier and happier with that spacer in place, or will it
>>be fine if I just use a plain ol' gasket? I just realised as I type this
>>that I haven't checked for any clearance problems with the linkage....
>>Anybody know where I can find that spacer?

The spacer is usually a heat insulator between the manifold and carb.
It especially helps after a "hot soak". ( You drive hard and hot for a
while, then park somewhere. If You try and start again after 10 minutes,
it may be hard to restart. The carb absorbs heat from the manifold and
boils all its fuel down the manifold and floods it, + the carb bowl is
now empty and needs to crank a bit to refill it.)

The spacer is probably a good deal if You can find another, or make one.
It also makes the carb stand a little taller on the manifold, which *may*
slightly improve torque, and/or fuel distribution.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:57:54 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Temp Guage & Sending Units

>Guage & Sending Units
>
>Hi Gang,
>
>Can anyone tell me how to use the stock temp guage and sending units in a
>1955 F100 that has a stock 317 and has been converted to 12 volts?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Howard
>
>HTSTDS smplx.com

I find it easiest and most accurate to use use a 7806, or other solid
state 6v regulator to run 6v gauges off 12 volts.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 23:15:42 -0700
From: Art Starkey
Subject: Re: 3 Duece's on Y-Block

At 08:31 PM 9/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>JD,
>
>I can not help you with the linkage, but I do have a question.
>
>Do you still have the complete orig stock air cleaner assembly. I have a
>55 with a stock 317 Y block and am looking for said unit.
>
>Please advise,
>
>Regards and good luck
>
>Howard
>
>----------
>> From: JD Hollingsworth Jr
>> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
>> Subject: 3 Duece's on Y-Block
>> Date: Monday, September 29, 1997 4:34 PM
>>
>> Hi Group,
>>
>> I tried sending this last week but did'nt see it post so my appologies
>> if you have already seen it. I'm JD and new to the group. I have a 55
>> F100 that's mildly customized with a Y-Block, a 9" and a chevelle clip.
>> I've recently scored an Edelbrock FM-553 manifold with 3 Ford 94's. My
>> main problem is that there was no linkage with it. Can anyone turn me on
>> to a linkage supplier and _ANY_ info on the conversion such as internal
>> changes needed between the center and front and rear carbs?
>> Thanx in advance.
>>
>> --
>> Later,
>> JDH
>> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
>> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
>> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
>> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 and Older --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |....


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